I’m grateful I follow some of our local wineries on social media – Chesebro Wines is one of them. When they recently informed us that they had released the 2015 Chesebro Sparkling Rosé, we made a beeline for Carmel Valley. They opened a bottle for us to try it and we snapped up a couple to take home. It was worthy of a trip to the valley!
I’m also including here a couple of their red blends. The 2015 Las Arenas was recently consumed at home. On the other hand, the 2012 La Montagne Sauvage was part of a vertical tasting at their tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. We have quite a few vintages of this blend at home awaiting the right event!
THE WINES
Today, I am presenting 3 Chesebro Wines. I last presented their wines to you in August 2023 here: Chesebro New Releases Wow Decanting Monterey! Winery notes come from the label, their tasting sheet or their website, unless otherwise noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone; however, as a general rule, I do not correct any typos from the winery’s website.
2015 Chesebro Brut Rosé, Mission Ranch Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV, $50 (#1264) – Worthy of a Trip!
Winery Notes: “100% Mission Ranch Swan clone Pinot Noir. Aged on the lees for 7 years before being disgorged in 2016. Bottled with 6 grams/L dosage this wine is a light onion skin color, very fine bubbles and has aromas of brioche and bruised red apple that follows through on the palate with red berry and bright acidity.”
My Review: Beige-pink in color. Apple cider on the nose. Palate of fine bubbles and mouse with soft, raspberry notes. We bought some of this and have enjoyed it at home! February 2024
2015 Chesebro Las Arenas, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $27 (#1265)
Winery Notes: “Las Arenas refers to the sandy soils of Cedar Lane Vineyard. This Rhone style blend of 67% Grenache and 33% Syrah combines intense aromatics with smooth texture and bright acidity.”
My Review: Plum and blackberry on the nose. The palate has fruity blackberry notes balanced by a tobacco finish. This is a tasty wine. March 2024
2012 Chesebro La Montagne Sauvage, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV (#1266)
Winery Notes: “This Rhone style blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre is grown on our family ranch in the mountains of upper Carmel Valley. We feel it convey the wild character of this place we love.”
My Review: We tasted the 2014, 2013 and 2012 vintages at the same time. This vintage is all dark fruit, a touch jammier than the others. Smooth, yet chewy, with more tobacco on the finish. Delicious. February 2023
THE TASTING ROOM
The Chesebro Tasting Room is located at 19D East Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village.
“We are now open for tasting on Friday through Sunday from noon until 5 PM and by appointment on other days. Due to our limited capacity please make an appointment on all days so that we may better serve you. Appointments can either be set up through this page below or by contacting Alex directly at Alex@chesebrowines.com or 831-238-2618.” You can walk in or schedule an appointment at the tasting room link.
As a huge fan of Monterey County wines, I hold a special place for the resources and efforts of Kim Stemler and the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association. When I learned I could be there to join the Monterey County Vintners & Growers celebrate 50 amazing years, I could not wait for the date!
THE STORY – The Monterey County Vintners & Growers celebrate 50 amazing years
This annual meeting was held on January 31st at Rustiqué Winery out River Road. It was mostly attended by our local vintners and a handful of their supporters. After their board meeting, we mingled and sampled some of their newest wines, some not yet released. It was a relaxed and friendly setting with a delicious lunch, followed by the meeting itself.
MINGLING
Before the meeting, I had the chance to speak with several winemakers I have gotten to know over the years. We asked about the 2023 vintage and heard the following: gratitude for the lack of wildfires, plentiful in yield, yet some mixed results vineyard by vineyard. David Baird from Folktale indicated he is looking forward to the imminent release of his 2023 whites and rosé. I thanked Miguel Lepe of Lepe Cellars for recently hosting the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society and he invited us back any time! Sabrine Rodems was very excited to show off the new Scratch C-47 Grenache-Syrah. Adrien Valenzuela from Corral Wine Co.brought their latest Petite Sirah just being released – wow. Kirstie Dyer invited us up to Holman Ranch for a tour and tasting. Dennis Hoey of Odonata did a double-take at our last name – just one letter separates us. People do ask me if we are related. Later, I joked that we should invite him to our upcoming family reunion as a long, lost cousin!
There were a number of Associate members of the group present, to whom I was introduced as a “Monterey County wine influencer.” I prefer the term “groupie.” I’m just a passionate fan and wine educator who helps get the word out about our fabulous wineries and wines.
THE MEETING
At the meeting itself, there was great recognition of how far the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association has come over these past 50 years – from their early meetings in a bar to having this larger meeting in a winery barn! Kudos were given to Kim Stemler, the face of Monterey wines, for her hard work increasing the profile of our vineyards and wineries, while working with regulatory bodies.
Kim has worked to support the members and to find solutions to challenges like COVID and wildfires (air support first makes a difference!). She provides a single point of information to streamline communication. One marketing success from 2023 was renaming the River Road Wine Trail to the Monterey Wine Trail and soon we will see new signs put up to help guide visitors. And she helped us get our local wines onto the shelves of Whole Foods! She also talked about getting wineries to visit each other to share techniques and expertise.
BRAINSTORMING
The next part of the meeting was to brainstorm at our tables some of the biggest positives and negatives for the region. At our table, we talked about the positive of growing recognition of Monterey County wines and the negative of increased shipping costs throughout the production supply chain, including delivery to consumers. As an example, the sharp increase in shipping costs during and after the pandemic have made it increasingly difficult for me to put together a class for my DC-based group.
With this much growth in the past 50 years, I can’t even imagine what it will be like the next time the Monterey County Vintners & Growers celebrate 50 amazing years!
THE WINES
Today I am sharing impressions of 9 of these latest wines; I didn’t take detailed notes. Winery notes, where available, come from their websites or labels, or as otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2022 Moonlit Harvest Chardonnay, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $22 (#1246) produced and bottled by Cowboys, Livermore, California
From the Back Label: “Eighteen eighty-three is the year C.H. Wente founded his winery in Northern California. This wine pays homage to his pioneering spirit and passion for quality grape growing and winemaking. The grapes for this wine were grown and harvested under our serenely moonlit estate vineyards located in Monterey, regarded as one of the best places in California to grow Chardonnay. The cool, coastal influences are ideal for delivering flavors of ripe apple, guava and mango balanced by subtle oak, vanilla and spice. Enjoy!”
My Review: Quite tasty and balanced with distinct tropical notes balanced with a little buttery oak – quite representative of a Monterey County Chardonnay. I would present this in a class. January 2024
2022 (?) Kori Sauvignon Blanc, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1247)
My partner poured this, so I am assuming it is the 2022, for which I cannot yet find any notes.
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: The tasty fruit for this wine comes from one of a top Arroyo Seco vineyard – Griva. A nice balance of citrus flavors with a predominance of that classic Sauvignon Blanc grassiness. January 2024
My Review: Big, bold flavors in this well-balanced wine. I don’t know the blend, but it clearly has enough Syrah to please my palate. Excellent. January 2024
2020 Corral Petite Syrah, Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, 14.5% ABV (#1249)
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: Rich and dark blue and blackberry tongue-coating flavors. I know I am not supposed to have favorites but this was, for our palates, our favorite wine of the day! January 2024
2019 Silvestri Eugenia Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $65 (#1250)
Winery Notes: “The 2019 Eugenia is a unique blend of our estate reds (35% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Franc,15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot) at 25% New French Oak. Aged 18 months in barrel… Our version of a Bordeaux blend using all five varietals with Malbec leading and Cabernet Sauvignon just behind offering bold flavors of plumb and black currant and structure. Cabernet Frank and Merlot evenly support with balancing softness and a slight herbacousness and a minor contribution of Petit Vedot with color, tannin and spice.”
My Review: Very berry on the nose and palate, opening into a richer red. Tasty. January 2024
2021 Rustiqué Syrah, Tondré Grapefield, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 14.4% ABV (#1251)
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: I was excited to try this Syrah from the esteemed Tondré Grapefield. My guess is that it is the first Syrah produced by Rustiqué. It was quite berry on the nose, followed by a very nice palate. I’d like to try this again. Time for a visit to Rustiqué! January 2024
2019 Odonata Sangiovese, Machado Creek Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley AVA, Santa Clara County, 14.2% ABV (#1252)
Winery Notes: “Strawberries, hints of cinnamon, leather and earth. The palate is round with balanced acidity and tannin. Great vintage for Machado Sangiovese, this wine is powerful and fruit forward, but will lean out into dried leaf and cool subtleties as time progresses. 10-20 year wine for sure.”
My Review: We got a lot of berry and cherry flavors with solid tannins on the finish – agree this would benefit from cellaring and I would like to taste it again!January 2024
2021 Bernardus Pinot Noir, Garys’ Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 14.7% ABV, $80 (#1074)
Winery Notes: “The renowned Garys’ Vineyard was planted with the celebrated “Pisoni clone” by the two iconic growers of the Santa Lucia Highlands: Gary Pisoni and Gary Franscioni. Together they have brought worldwide attention to this fabulous appellation for the exceptional quality of its Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. This year, Gary Franscioni and Gary Pisoni have graciously offered Bernardus a few extra tons of the superb Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir (expertly farmed by Mark Pisoni). This enabled us to ferment in 3 small fermenters, providing a new subtle complexity to the finished wine.
“Our 2021 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir exudes a gorgeous perfume of ripe, dark red fruits along with notes of rose pedal. The fabulous palate is very intense – powerful yet elegant – with layers of boysenberry, ripe black cherry and a hint of spice. This is without a doubt, our finest Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir to date!”
My Review: We somehow ended up with a bottle of this wine at our table. Pinot Noir is not my wheelhouse, but this big, complex Bernardus Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir is one of the finest I have tried. A pretty, bright red ruby color. Cherry and raspberry nose, followed by continued red fruit flavors on the complex palate. It went exceptionally well with our meal. January 2024
2021 Lepe Cellars Petit Verdot, Merit Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV (#1253)
Winery Notes: N/A.
My Review: Tobacco on the nose. Dark plum and berry flavors on the palate. Pretty delicious. This was a great wine with which to finish the program.
THE TASTING ROOMS
With the exception of Moonlit Harvest, these wines can be tasted in our local Monterey County tasting rooms, spanning the 3 regions of Carmel-by-the-Sea, Carmel Valley Village, and the Monterey Wine Trail. You can find more information on their websites or at the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association website.
Last August, I had the chance to meet Miguel Lepe of Lepe Cellars and his assistant Thyra Roth at the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association Trade and Media Tasting in Carmel-by-the-Sea. There, I asked him if he would be interested in hosting the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society for one of their First Friday events – and he said yes! We finally held that event in early December and it became our chapter’s holiday party at his tasting room inside the Winfield Art Gallery. He was a gracious host, educating our group on his wines and sharing about his winemaking journey.
“Miguel Lepe studied enology and viticulture at California Polytechnic State University – SLO. He began his career working for various well respected wineries across California’s Central Coast and South America. Passionate about his craft, Miguel’s hard work and dedication has led him on a new journey – creating Lepe Cellars to showcase the best of Monterey County wines.”
Our Mission
“We take great pride in blending the best of Old World and New World techniques, enabling the wine to develop naturally over time and allowing the journey to be kept as pure as possible, highlighting the regions true terroir.”
THE WINES
I have 7 Lepe Cellars wines to present to you today representing 5 distinct AVAs within Monterey County!You can read more about Monterey’s AVAs here. Winery notes come from their website unless otherwise noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2021 Lepe Cellars Chardonnay, River Ranch Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $38 (#1234)
Winery Notes: “Citrus and white flower aromas lead into a bright profile with green apples, lemon, and honeysuckle with a touch of minerality on the palate.”
My Review: Pineapple and butter notes on the nose. Crisp and flavorful on the palate with a slightly acidic finish. I took one home. December 2023
2022 Lepe Cellars Sangiovese Rose, Merit Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 12.5% ABV, $30 (#1109)
Winery Notes: “This bright, stone fruit focused dry Rosé starts out with a burst of peach and apricot leading into hints of tangerine. Pairs well with seared salmon, lobster and tuna tartare.”
My Review: A light, pretty pink hue in the glass. Caramel and fruit notes on the nose. Really delicious palate of peach – great balance of sweet and dry. I’d enjoy this in the microclimate. December 2023
2022 Lepe Cellars Pinot Noir, San Saba Vineyard, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV , $40 (#1236)
Winery Notes: (Description of the 2021 vintage) “Fresh and soft in style, unleashing notes of cherries and raspberries on the palate with hints of hibiscus and rose petals on the nose.”
My Review Powered by Terravenos: Cherry on the nose. Smooth, young. In a year, it will be glorious. Perfumed with cherry, berry and savory notes – very good with the white cheddar. December 2023
2021 Lepe Cellars Pinot Noir, McIntyre Vineyards, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $55 (#1237)
Winery Notes: “Bright and lush in style, unleashing fresh juicy cherries and raspberries with hints of hibiscus on the finish. Light to medium body spectrum achieving a fresh fruit forward profile.”
My Review: This Pinot Noir comes from one of my favorite vineyards for Pinot in the Santa Lucia Highlands. This was a much richer, darker wine with more tobacco and tannin on the palate and finish – a very different wine from the first Pinot Noir. December 2023.
2021 Lepe Cellars Zinfandel, Wellong Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13% ABV, $42 (#1238)
Winery Notes: “This single-vineyard expression from southern Monterey County begins with a floral hit on the nose before diving into cherry-compote and crushed rock aromas. There is red-plum on the palate with hibiscus and cinnamon tones, finishing with a spicy kick of white pepper.”
My Review: Smokey caramel on the nose. Rich dark berries, a little sweet on the palate. This is one of the best examples of Zinfandel in Monterey County. December 2023
2021 Lepe Cellars Syrah, Zabala Vineyards, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV, $55 (#1239)
Winery Notes: “Intriguing aromas of fresh blueberry and violets with hints of dark plum, black pepper and milk chocolate on the palate tied together with soft lush tannins.”
My Review: Very dark in the glass. A warm nose with black berries. Rich palate of dark fruit. Tastes more high alcohol than it is. I’d like to put this up against a Halter Ranch. I’m always on the hunt for a Syrah made from Zabala Vineyards fruit. I like this wine and took one home. December 2023
2020 Lepe Cellars Petit Verdot, Merit Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.4% ABV, $49 (#1110)
Winery Notes: “Elegant aromas of wild strawberry, savory soy and light licorice show on the nose of this pure varietal. Dark plum and cherries show on the first sip, with a bit of earthy forest floor woven with pepper, oak and tannin creating a velvety, rich texture.”
My Review: I’ve had this wine before and described it like this: “Plummy and jammy on the nose. Tobacco and dark fruits on the palate. Very nice.” But today, my palate said it was smokey, baby. This is a 2020 wine, after all. I’ll need to try it again. December 2023
THE TASTING ROOM
The Lepe Cellars tasting room is open daily from 12-7 p.m. inside the Winfield Art Gallery on Doloresbetween Ocean & 7th, Carmel-By-The-Sea.
In November, we attended our third over-the-top Marinus dinner at the Bernardus Winery Tasting Room. I have to say, this is our favorite local event of the year and, I don’t know how, but it just keeps getting more impressive. The 2023 Marinus dinner was an elegant affair. The tables were decorated so beautifully and the service was impeccable. The wines and the food were exquisite, all the way down to the imported flavored French butters! The Marinus blends are aging nicely and the multi-course food pairings created by Carmel Valley’s Chef Jerome Viel were sumptuous. You can read more about Jerome here: https://jeromescarmelvalleymarket.com/chef-jerome-viel/.
I will confess that I bugged Heather relentlessly about the date for this event, as I knew it was coming and we had been traveling. I for sure didn’t want to miss this event and last year, we got the last 4 seats! Thanks for putting up with me, Heather! When is it next year? 😊
With the recent retirement of winemaker Dean DeKorth, we were hosted by his replacement, Jim McCabe. We had met him at the previous Marinus dinner and he hosted the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod at the winery this past summer. Jim was fully in his element on this night, informing us about the wines and happenings at the winery. His presence and conversations with the many attendees were so valuable and appreciated.
As if we didn’t already feel special enough, our meal began with the final 3 bottles of the 1993 Marinus – the year of their first bottling of this red blend on its 30th Anniversary. Making a fine Bordeaux wine in Carmel Valley was the vision and dream of founder Ben Pon, who passed away in 2019. And I must say that the 1993 was drinking fine, giving credence and confidence in the longevity of later vintages. Ben Pon’s vision has indeed been realized!
THE WINEMAKER’S STORY
Jim McCabe did not start out wanting to be a winemaker. Originally from Massachusetts, he got into graduate school in Sonoma to pursue a Masters in Comparative Literature. He took a job at Bernardus while finishing his thesis.
He was impressed by the 2006 Bernardus Ingrid’s Vineyard Pinot Noir. He found it bigger, fuller, and more enjoyable than the jug wines which were so popular back then. 😊 As a result, he started to take winemaking more seriously. Dean DeKorth, his boss and mentor, taught him much about wine appreciation and winemaking.
THE WINERY
To kick off our event, winemaker Jim McCabe addressed the group with a brief history of the Bernardus Winery and the Marinus vineyard. Motor sport enthusiast and golfer Ben Pon moved here in 1989-1990. He noticed Durney was making intense Cabernets in Carmel Valley/Cachagua and he wanted to see what the area could be for wines. He had a vision to create a small pocket of Bordeaux in Carmel Valley. He wanted to explore what varieties would do well there. He planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to see what they could do, then added Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. You can read more about the founding and history of Bernardus Winery here.
Over the course of the evening, Jim shared a few tidbits about the winery and winemaking:
Bernardus hand harvests its grapes. Jim shared that there is a big difference in quality between machine and hand picking. Machines enter into the mix “Matters Other than Grapes” – MOG.
Making Marinus wine is like “squidding.” Seriously, Jim did say that…
One of their challenges is how to get grape growing and harvesting right in Cachagua, with its big diurnal shift. Cabernet Sauvignon needs sustained heat. So, they have to pick late.
As of the dinner on November 9th, they had still not harvested their Cabernet Sauvignon! Due to the rains, followed by a cool spring/summer without wildfires, the region enjoyed one of its best and longest growing seasons.
The Marinus Vineyard is also a great place for Merlot. They have put a higher percentage of Merlot in the blend over the years. They reevaluate the percentages of the various grape varieties every year to develop their strategy for each vintage’s blend.
Marinus is a limited production red blend. They try to get the balance of varietals to show the best bottle – “the best we can” – vs having it taste the same every year. The blend, with Cabernet Sauvignon as the dominant varietal, changes from year to year. The Signature Marinus is the best of the best. It can be a different blend than the Marinus in a given year.
They prefer French barrels and are able to buy 500 new barrels per year. Some old ones get purchased by a local brewery!
THE WINES
Winery tasting notes come from their website, the tasting sheet, or conversations with the winemaker or tasting room staff unless otherwise indicated. I quickly jotted down the blends at a subsequent visit to the tasting room, so I may not have them exactly right. You can read more about most of these wines on their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2015 Bernardus Marinus Signature Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, $125 (#889) 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Petit Verdot, 12% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc
Winery Notes: “This 2015 vintage of our highly regarded Signature Marinus exhibits a beautiful, deep robe. The aromas are redolent with dark red fruits and dried spices. On the palate we find bright ripe-red fruit flavors and notes of cedar on a long, rich finish, promising a long life to come! A wonderful example from our estate vineyard!” Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo Uncorked! Awarded TOP RED WINE!
My Review: This was the wine we enjoyed as we walked in the door. I don’t have new notes, so am providing mine from July, which was a blind tasting: Dark berry, cherry and caramel notes with at first hints of barnyard and hay on the nose. Earthy palate of dark fruits with a touch of smoke on the finish. Much more of a big cab style wine. We like it. July 2023
1993 Bernardus Marinus Red Table Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, $30 (#887)
Winery Notes: This was the first year they produced Marinus. The grapes were planted in 1989. It was made by winemaker Don Blackburn. From K&L Wine Merchants: “According to Wine Spectator: “A new Bordeaux-style blend that’s firm and intense, if a bit on the tannic side. Currant, cherry and anise flavors are well focused and well proportioned, and finish with dry tannins. Try after 1997.” (08/1996)
My Review: This wine was perfectly paired with the black cod. Dark ruby in color. Spicy, black pepper on the nose. So smooth and rich, elegant. If we were tasting bling, no one would guess it was 30 years old. It’s similar to one of those fine, aged Bordeaux wines we open at home sometimes. November 2023
2010 Bernardus Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV, $65 (#39) 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc
Winery Notes: “Our 2010 Marinus exhibits its typical deeply colored robe. The aromas express beautiful red fruits accented by classic notes of cedar. The delicious flavors are soft and full, with spicy dark cherry and plus flavors and a smooth texture of well integrated tannins. Although drinking beautifully now, this Marinus will age gracefully for many years to come.”
My Review: Served with the duck confit and smoked lentils. Inky/dark garnet in the glass. Extraction is great says Jim. Slightly earthy nose. Palate is still rich but leaner. Still smooth. We’ve had this vintage many times over the years and it has been interesting to watch its progression. Several years ago, we thought it might be past its prime, but it might have been the bottle in the tasting room. Since that time, as on this night, it has been drinking well. Hang in there, 2010! November 2023
2013 Bernardus Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey, 14.1% ABV, $75 (#157) 35% Caberbet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 25% Petit Verdot, 8% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc
Winery Notes: “The robe of our 2013 Marinus is a very deep crimson. On the nose we find dried cranberry aromas accented by subtle spice notes. The palate is intensely flavored with impressions of bright red cherry and plum. The finish shows excellent tannic structure promising a long life for this vintage of Marinus, much like that of a fine Bordeaux.”
My Review: Served with the pork tenderloin. This is the vintage that caused me to fall in love with Marinus and become a club member. Inky in the glass. Smooth nose of cedar and velvety fruit. Dark berries on the palate. Blackberry and cherry on the finish. Still a favorite. November 2023.
2017 Bernardus Signature Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $125 (#891)
Winery Notes: This was the first tasting of this vintage – opened for us on this special night. No notes are available yet on their website.
My Review: Dark in the glass. Umami bouquet – go figure. Fresh on the palate. Bright black and red berries on the palate with a licorice finish. A lovely finish. I think it is still young, but the winery thinks it is ready to drink. Showing well and perfectly paired with the venison medallion – a good choice. November 2023.
2014 Bernardus Marinus, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $75 (#290)52% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec
Winery Notes: “The robe of our 2014 Marinus is very deeply-colored. The aromas exude beautifully ripened red fruits accented by subtle spice notes. The mouthfeel is very soft and full expressing delicious flavors of ripe cherry and plum. The finish is well structured with soft tannins promising a long life for this superb bottle, similar to a fine Bordeaux.”
My Review: Inky in the glass. Tobacco on the nose. Deep intense berries on the palate with a minty finish. -goes with the earthiness of the raclette. Lovely. November 2023
2019 Bernardus Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 9.0% ABV, valued at $50, not for sale (#1215)
Winery Notes: Inspired by Sauternes. Can only make this when the conditions are right. Has to be a humid, wet year. Bernardus has only made this 3 times: 2011, 2012, 2019. Can open it and keep it open.
My Review: Honey on the nose. Viscous, with a nice balance between the sweet and orange blossom and a touch of tartness. I enjoyed this wine – a perfect pairing with our orange almond cake. November 2023
THE TASTING ROOM
The Bernardus Tasting room, located at 5 West Carmel Valley Road, is open every afternoon except Monday, with slightly different hours each day. Reservations are recommended but not required. You can see more information and book a tasting here, via email tastingroom@bernardus.com, or by calling them at 831-298-8021
On a lovely September day, the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod decided to stop in at Corral Wine Co. to experience their beautiful portfolio of tasty wines. There, we were warmly greeted and hosted by their expert staff, LeAnne and Marissa. It was a nice, quiet afternoon to taste some new releases, as well as retaste some of our favorites.
My last post about Corral Wine Co.was here: Impressive Corral Lineup for the Monterey AWS WinedUP Friday!A few of today’s wines were also in this post – but I am providing updated notes here. My notetaking can be really detailed or really skimpy when traveling with the Wine Pod – depends if we are “working” or simply enjoying ourselves – and how many tastings we have done in a single day.
We’ve been fans of Corral since they first opened their tasting room in January 2022 and find their young winemaker Adrien Valenzuela to be one of the most exciting, promising, up and coming winemakers we have encountered. His versatility seems to have no bounds – from a flavorful, delicate Sauvignon Blanc to his creative “See What You Can Do With It” red blend.
Sourcing grapes from some of the regions very best vineyards is key to their success – from the correct side of Paso (depending on the varietal) to some of my personal favorite vineyards in Monterey County and beyond to San Benito County.
THE WINES
Today I am presenting 8 Corral Wine Co.wines from this September tasting, plus a few we tasted earlier in the year. Some of these wines have been presented here before. Winery notes come from the tasting sheet or their website, unless otherwise noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
Winery Notes: “Vibrant aromas of lemongrass, citrus, fersh herb, and guava with hints of gooseberry. Flavors of lemon, peach, and citrus finishing with a nice minerality and racing acidity.”
My Review: Straw in the grass. A slightly sweet nose of grapefruit & melon. The nose follows over to the palate with a grapefruit twist on the finish. It’s a lot, in a good way. September 2023
(Honeydew on the nose. A nice, round palate finishing with pineapple and citrus fruits. July 2023)
2021 Corral Rosé of Pinot Noir, River Road, Monterey County, 13.25% ABV, $26 (#1206)
Winery Notes: “Bright and delicate, with aromas of strawberry and orange blossom. Aged in 100% Stainless Steel for 10 months.”
My Review: Ballet slipper pink in color. Sweet Bouquet of honeysuckle. Rich in flavor – a touch sweeter than I generally prefer – but just barely. April 2023
2022 Corral Rosé of Pinot Noir, Russell Estate, Monterey County, 13.25% ABV, $28 (#1207)
Winery Notes: “Bright and delicate with hints of strawberry, cotton candy, and hibiscus. Flavors of raspberry tea and white peach linger through the finish.”
My Review: Pale pink in color. Honeysuckle on the nose. White peach and floral on the palate. Quite nice but a tad sweet for me. 100% patio wine. Great for the beach. September 2023
Winery Notes: “Rich tropical aromatics of grilled pineapple, ripe fruit, and toasted coconut with hints of sweet baking spices. Subtle flavors of oak and spice finish on the palate with a nice oily body. Long lasting finish enhances the richness of this Chardonnay.”
My Review: Light golden in the glass. Toasted coconut on the nose, almost Sauternes like. Banana on the palate. September 2023
2019 Corral Pinot Noir, KW Ranch, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $58 (#841)
Winery Notes: “Rich flavors of dark cherry, plum, and nutmeg. Elegant and lasting finish.”
My Review: Pale garnet in color. Caramel on the nose. Spices including nutmeg on the mid palate. A bit of tobacco on the finish. September 2023
(Inky ruby in the glass. Smells like dark fruit, almost raisiny. Very bold on the palate – big and smooth. I’m not a Pinot Noir lover, but I truly like this wine – we have some at home! September 2022)
2019 “See What You Can Do With It” Red Blend, Monterey County, 14.2% ABV, $62 (#843)
Winery Notes: “50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Syrah blend with notes of cranberry, pine needles, and all spice.”
My Review: It’s got a great nose – “It smells up my alley,” proclaimed a Wine Pod member. This is truly my kind of wine. The Syrah hits mid palate with white pepper notes. A touch tart on the finish like a cherry Jolly Rancher. Right now, the grape varietals are tasting somewhat separately. September 2023
(Inky in the glass. Mocha, plum, dark berries and vanilla on the nose. Palate of sharp berries and spearmint with vanilla and anise on the finish. This wine is very young for all this big fruit – recommend cellaring for a year or so – if you can resist! One of our favorite Corral wines. September 2022)
2020Corral Cabernet Sauvignon, Adelaida District, Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, 14.5% ABV, $82 (#1209)
Winery Notes: “Aromas of black cherry, currant, and cedar. Hints of violet and blackberry. Aged in 50% new French oak.”
My Review: Deep garnet in the glass. Perfume on the nose. Very deep fruit and spice on the palate. This is going to be a great wine. April 2023 and September 2023
2019 Corral Petite Sirah, Aleksander Vineyard, Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, 14.5% ABV, $72 (#844)
Winery Notes: “Ripe black fruit: blackberries, blueberries tobacco, black pepper, and toasted baking spices. Rich in flavor, full bodied with a long finish. Aged in 100% Oak barrels, 50% new oak, 25% French, 25% American oak.”
My Review: Our last wine – and skimpy notes. Magenta in the glass, barnyard on the nose. We always like this wine. September 2023
(Beautiful dark ruby in the glass. Smoke and alcohol on the nose – not a ton of fruit. Palate is smooth and rich with dark berry flavors and yummy. This is my favorite current Corral wine – we keep buying more because we keep opening it at home! September 2022)
THE TASTING ROOM
“Come say “Hello” at our Tasting Room in Carmel Valley Village” located at19 East Carmel Valley Rd. Suite C, Carmel Valley. Sunday – Thursday 12-5 p.m., Friday – Saturday 12-6 p.m.
I have been curious about Comanche Cellars for years, with their interesting name and trendy, downtown Monterey tasting room. I first had the chance to try one of their wines when a neighbor and I stopped into A Taste of Monterey last March. I previously brought you the 2020 Comanche Cellars Tempranillo here: Spur of the Moment Wine Experience at A Taste of Monterey. My slightly updated tasting notes say, “Almost garnet in color. Blueberry and chocolate on the nose. Spicy mouthful of berries and dark cherry. Lively palate. Updated October 2023.”
We needed a place for the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society(AWS) to hold its October First Friday WinedUP event and Comanche Cellars was gracious enough to host us. My husband and I stopped by in late September to do a little pre-taste and make sure they were ready for us. SOme of my notes are from that tasting and the rest are from the AWS event.
The Comanche Tasting Room, located at 412 Alvarado Street, was such a fun venue for our AWS Chapter. Our group likes to explore different wineries and this setting was spacious enough and decorated in such a cute way, leaning into the “Dog & Pony” theme. And they allowed us to go “off menu” and try some of their bigger reds. We were very happy for our experience and many of us went hope with bottles of their wines.
We were so fortunate that vintner/owner Michael Simons came to meet our group and shared that he had struggled to come up with a name for the winery. His kids were the ones who came up with Comanche, the name of his beloved childhood horse. In addition to Michael, we’d like to thank in particular Christina who helped us secure the date, and Gabriel and Bree who helped us go “off-menu” and were so knowledgeable about the wines. We didn’t get to try their cheese and charcuterie boards, so will have to go back another time. Michael said the winery had a great time getting to know our group and might have had even more fun than we had!
“My name is Michael Simons, and what started as a love affair with wine has turned into a passion for producing small lots of very handcrafted wines from neighboring vineyards. Our tiny (1,800 cases) winery is named after Comanche, my horse when I was ten years old. He was an important part of a young life, and I use his name as a loving tribute to this old friend. These days, I ride a bicycle, and since this love affair with wine turned into a full-blown obsession, finding time for riding anything can be tough. But I still think of Comanche often, and am proud that his name and shoes are on every bottle of my wine. Maybe those horseshoes will bring you some good luck!
“Comanche Cellars is on California’s Monterey Peninsula, where we take advantage of the incredible wealth of vineyards that can be found in almost every direction. All throughout the Santa Lucia Highlands, Arroyo Seco, San Antonio Valley and Santa Cruz Mountains AVA’s, there are winegrowers and winemakers producing incredibly beautiful wines that, we think, can and will rival the best the world has to offer. We’re happy to be in the sweet spot right now, as Wine Enthusiast recently named Monterey as one of the Top 5 winegrowing regions worldwide!
“Saddle up, come along for the ride, and see for yourself what all the buzz is about. Just give us a call or drop us an email.”
THE WINES
I have 10 wines to present to you today from Comanche Cellars. Winery notes come from their website, bottles or the tasting room, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2022 Comanche Cellars Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc (Pet Nat), Dorcich Family Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley AVA, Santa Clara County, 11.5% ABV, $30 (#1156)
There is a story about this wine. It was supposed to be a still Sauvignon Blanc, but the sugar and the yeast got out of control and secondary fermentation occurred. It is a happy outcome and a very fun wine. They took their Sauvignon Blanc bottle and slapped a Pet Nat (Pétillant Natural) sticker on it! This is new on their tasting menu! I hope you get to try it!
Winery Notes: “N/A.”
My Review: Pale sparkly in the glass. White peach and honeydew on the nose. Crisp on the palate finishing with subtle notes of grapefruit and a touch of yeast on the finish. September 2023
2022 Comanche Cellars French Oak Chardonnay, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.4% ABV, $30 (#1157)
Winery Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves.
My Review: Touch of oak. Butter and vanilla on the nose. Like caramel popcorn. Vanilla and butter carry over to the palate. Lots of oak. It’s a big Chardonnay with lime twist on the finish. September 2023
2021 Comanche Cellars Rosé of Pinot Noir, Gimelli Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 14.85% ABV, $30 (#1158)
Winery Notes: “This beautifully-hued rosé will quickly impress you with the aromas of candied apple leading to flavors of maraschino cherry and passionfruit. The crisp, pleasing acidity makes you want to savor each and every sip while it transports you to a French sidewalk café in the summertime.”
My Review: Very pink, intensely almost orange. Watermelon and maraschino cherry on the nose. Light palate of strawberry, like a Pinot Noir – with a fruitier twist. Not exactly fruit forward to us. I preferred this rosé to the 2022 vintage. September 2023.
2022 Comanche Cellars Rosé of Pinot Noir, Gimelli Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, (#1159)
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: Rich pink in the glass – dustier pink than the other one. Spice on the nose. Tart and spicey on the palate. Like Asian spice – perhaps jalapeños on melon – in a good way. September 2023.
2020 Comanche Cellars Dog & Pony La Niña, Central Coast, 12.9% ABV (#1160) 65% Tempranillo, 35% Grenache
Winery Notes: “This intriguing duet of Tempranillo and Grenache brings flavors of spiced fruit compote
wrapped in a tapestry of soft tannins and juicy acidity to create a beautifully balanced, easy to enjoy wine.”
My Review: Dark purple. Deep plum and blackberry on the nose. Smoke front palate. Nice smooth palate with a smooth, tannic finish. During our pre-tasting, this was my favorite wine. September 2023.
2021 Comanche Cellars Sagrantino, Calleri Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 11.7% ABV (#1161)
I had never heard of Sagrantino until this day – then saw it in an Umbrian Montefalco Rosse just a few days later – lots to learn about it! The tasting room told us that 3,000 acres of Sagrantino grapes are planted locally!
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: Translucent garnet in glass. Vegetal notes with candied cherry and nutmeg on the nose. Asparagus. The nose to me is reminscent of the vegetal I get from Petit Verdot. Mouth-filling, candied cherry fruits and sour cherry finish. Wow! This is such an interesting wine. September 2023
2020 Comanche Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Tres Pinos Creek, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 12.4% ABV (#1162)
Winery Notes: N/A
My Review: Dark in the glass. Dark fruit, almost stewed prune, on the nose. Light on the palate. The nose over promises the palate. September 2023
2018 Comanche Cellars Merlot, Medeiros Family Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley AVA, Santa Clara County, 14.3% ABV, $34 (#1165)
Winery Notes: “Delicious rich berry cola on both the nose and palate layered with smooth blackberry jam. These beautiful flavors are complemented by notes of leather, cedar and licorice.”
My Review: Plum and blueberry on the nose. Add some cranberry to those and you have a nice wine! Some anise on the finish. October 2023
NV Comanche Cellars Dog & Pony Tre Zingari, Central Coast AVA, 14.2% ABV, $30 (#1166) 40% Barbera, 40% Merlot, 20% Carignane
Winery Notes: “This Old World bellezza tells the tale of three timeless gypsies; the cinnamon red
cherry pie and rose petals of Italy’s Barbera, the dark blueberry-cherry-sage of France’s Merlot and the clove tinged onion jam of Spain’s Carignane. Let fly the Romani wanderlust, if for only a short while.”
My Review Powered bytèr·ra·ve·nos: These are Erin’s notes: “Deep ruby with pronounced aromatics. Jammy black fruit, dark cherry and plum, with some orange peel. This wine has an earthy quality with black licorice and a little rose petal. Alcohol and grippy tannins on the palate, with a delightful finish of violet and black fruit. Good depth.” My favorite wine of the day. October 2023
2019 Comanche Cellars Petite Sirah, Pierce Ranch Vineyard, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $38 (#1167)
Winery Notes: “Petite Sirah has deep rich flavors and velvety tannins. New to our portfolio, this
single varietal wine is big, bold and full bodied with aromas of dark fruit, vanilla and bayleaf. It truly is a unique grape, just don’t confuse it with Syrah!”
My Review Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Inky purple in color. Rich, crunchy black and blue fruits, with violet and licorice laced with alcohol on the lovely nose. Add all those flavors and a touch of prune on the palate. A good steak wine. I took one home for an upcoming class. October 2023
THE TASTING ROOM
“Join us in downtown Monterey for tasting flights, wines by the glass and our famous cheese & charcuterie boards!”
The Comanche Cellars tasting room is located at 412 Alvarado Street in downtown Monterey. 831-747-2244. Their hours (according to their website) are Tues-Thurs 4-8 pm, Fri 3-9 pm, Sat 1-9 pm, and Sun 1-6 pm. It is a popular venue and no reservations are required!
They also have fun and/or educational events such as vertical tastings and Wednesday night bingo! Check their home page for more information!
This past July, half of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod ventured out to Massa Estate for a tasting. We were impressed how many wines on their tasting menu came from the historic Durney Vineyards! I had not been there for a tasting since they first opened as Massa. This day’s “work” was long overdue! This is the first time I have presented their wines in Decanting Monterey!
As you come into Carmel Valley Village from Highway One, Massa is the first wine tasting room on your left. It has a beautiful blue peacock sign out front and a lovely outdoor garden on the side, perfect for an event or weekend brunch. Its winery out in Cachagua sits on some of the most celebrated and legendary grapes in Monterey County’s history – the Durney Vineyards. When I teach a class about Monterey wines, I tell the story of Durney becoming Heller Estate becoming Massa Estate. Durney’s Cabernet Sauvignon was among the best produced in the region – and many of today’s Massa Estate wines are made from those very same legendary vineyards! I like to talk about the Durney legacy in my wine classes. Participants ask me if this is important – and I say “Yes!”
“Overlooking the Cachagua region of Carmel Valley, (“Cachagua” is believed to be an Indian derivative of the French “cacher” and the Spanish “agua” – “hidden waters”), and framed by the dramatic surrounding hills, lie the beautiful vineyards of Massa Estate, formerly Heller Estate and Durney Vineyards. The vineyards are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, Petite Sirah, Malbec and Petit Verdot at an altitude of 1200 – 1500 feet.
“The vineyards are essentially dry-farmed. The roots of the vines descend deep in the loamy, sandy soil in search of the underground “Cachagua” springs. These stressed vines produce outstanding luscious fruit, which are then skillfully crafted into the extraordinary wines. The Cabernets have been described by wine reviewers as “super-rich, with lots of tannin and explosively long finishes”. In addition, the great variation in daily temperatures at the vineyard (which are sometimes 40 degrees in a twenty four hour period) helps to produce these exceptional age-worthy and full-bodied wines.
“The vineyards have been certified 100% organic since 1980s. Neither herbicides nor pesticides are used in the production of the grapes. This certification was granted after three vintages of clean farming although organic practices have been in place since the original plantings by the Durney’s in 1968. The winery itself was certified organic in 2012.
“In 1982 the Carmel Valley Appellation was approved by the Federal Bureau of Alcohol and Tobacco. Heller Estate was a pioneer in developing the viticulture in the area.
“Sculpture gardens have been added to the vineyard property and at the tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. The sculptures were created by Toby Heller; an internationally known sculptor of large works. Her piece “The Dancers”, a fifteen-foot high, bronze sculpture overlooking the vineyards, inspired the Heller Estate motto “Dances on Your Palate” as well as the design for the labels.”
THE WINES
I have 10 wines to present to you today from Massa Estate. Winery notes come from their website, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone. In general, I found their wines a tad tart for my preferences. Some, I believe, could be held, to show more down the road.
2019 Massa Estate Private Reserve Riesling, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County $29 (#1146)
Winery Notes: “The 2019 Massa Estate Riesling offers jasmine blossom, ripe pineapple, and warm golden delicious apples. The palate gives quince flavors, ample acidity with light lemon curd underneath. It finishes with long lasting acidity and warm spices into lemon cream.”
My Review: Pretty, light golden in color. Apple and honeysuckle on the nose. Lemon curd, grapefruit and pineapple on the palate. A little acidic – I would like it creamier. Overall, pretty good! July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Private Reserve Chardonnay, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $39 (#1147)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Chardonnay Reserve suggests bosc pears, nectarine blossom, lightly toasted oak, a hint of creme brulee, a kiss of salty sea air, and beeswax. The palate shows golden delicious apples and light caramelized sugar. It has medium high acidity, a long lingering finish; savory with sweet French oak and candied lemon peel.”
My Review: Pale golden in color. Butter, vanilla and caramel on the nose. Strong flavors on the palate with a finish of sea salt and lemon peel. July 2023
2019 Massa Estate Rose Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $25 (#1148)
Winery Notes: “Blueberry cobbler, California dry hill coastal shrubs, sun on a granitic slide. Juniper berries, fresh cranberry, and sandalwood on the palate. Lignified stems, dried fruit and lavender finish.”
My Review: Very pale pink in the glass. Slight whiff of barnyard on the nose, followed by the bitterness of Pinot Noir and musty notes on the finish. July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Private Reserve Merlot, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $55 (#1149)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Merlot suggests red plums, bing cherries, allspice, white pepper, and cigar box. The palate is fresh red fleshed apples with a touch of quince. This is really fresh for a merlot. The finish is with white pepper and Chinese five spice. It is light in its feet but structured in a way to support long term aging.”
My Review: Ruby in the glass. Dusty leather, cherry and white pepper on the nose. Dry on the palate with a tart cherry finish. July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Cachagua Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $39 (#1150)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Cachagua Cabernet Sauvignon offers cassis and blackberry to greet the palate while some slightly earthy and juicy characteristics mingle beautifully with the dry, dusty tannin structure. Pair this wine with a juicy hamburger topped with sauteed mushrooms and some nice aged cheddar cheese.”
MyReview: “Deep ruby in color. Dark berry jam and tarragon on the nose. Cotton candy, burnt sugar, slightly tart berries and a lot of new oak on the palate. Still too young – hold this wine! July 2023.”
2018 Massa Estate Private Reserve Petit Verdot, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $55 (#1151)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Petit Verdot offers delicate flavors of spiced plums, rich earth, beautiful dark chocolate, and dried persimmon with a finish of dried cherries and chocolate or cocoa.”
MyReview: Rich dark ruby, red plum on the glass. Warm brown sugar and hints of cherry on the nice nose. Spearmint and bay leaf overlay the dark berry palate. We were intrigued by this wine – one of my favorites of the day. July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Dancer’s Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $40 (#1152)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Dancer’s Bordeaux offers delicate flavors of black plums, cherry compote, cigar wrapper, sweet tobacco leaves, bay laurel, black cherry and toasted coconut. It has medium acidity and finishes with quiet, robust tannins with hints of licorice and sasparilla.”
My Review: Deep ruby in color with a classic fruity nose. Rounder flavors up front, followed by a mouthwatering burst of fruit and a licorice finish. I liked this wine and took some home! July 2023
2018 Massa Estate Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $65 (#1153)
Winery Notes: “Made from 50 year old vines planted by Bill Durney, the Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon offers delicate flavors of plums, salt water, toasted seaweed, sandalwood, and chaparral flowers! The palate is pure fruit, red cherries and French plums, with hints of baking spices and a touch of cinnamon stick underneath. It finishes with the classic mountain cabernet tannins, our lightest, freshest cabernet sauvignon.”
My Review: Garnet in color, with an interesting nose. My notes say floral, soapy, and fruit compote. a cherry bomb on the palate – like a cherry Jolly Rancher. Fruity and not very Cabernet Sauvignon-like. I wanted more from this wine made from some of the most legendary grapes in all of Monterey County. Still too young? July 2023
2017 Massa Estate Syrah, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $55 (#1154)
Winery Notes: “The 2017 Syrah offers hints of blackberry, French plums, white pepper, and floral violet notes. This is a darker, more full-bodied wine that is greeted with a punch of flavor that tapers off and then has a spicy peppery note in the aftertaste.”
My Review: Pretty garnet in the glass. Raisiny on the nose – almost port-like. The nose follows to the palate, yet very jammy. Reminiscent of a Syrah we recently tasted in Paso Robles, which we liked very much. I’d like to try this one again! July 2023
2019 Massa Estate Cabernet Franc, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $68 (#1155)
Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Cabernet Franc offers cypress fronds, plum skin, water over rocks, sandalwood, and forest floor. Robust tannins on finish, mouthcoating really wants rich foods.”
My Review: Light ruby in color. Barnyard on the nose, followed by a light palate of bright fruits. This is another one I would like to try again. July 2023
“The Tasting Room, located in Carmel Valley Village, is a 20 minute drive from Carmel, California and offers the public the opportunity to taste the entire range of impressive award winning Massa Estate & Heller Estate wines. There is a selection of wine accessories and wine related gifts as well as an art gallery.”
69 W. Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel Valley, CA 93924 Phone: 831.659.6220
Tasting Room Hours: Saturday – Sunday, 11:00am – 5:00pm “Enjoy our pet-friendly Sculpture Garden!” Current tasting menus are $15 (Classic) and $20 (Premium).
In addition to wine tasting, there are food options at the Massa Tasting Room! Local chef Michael Jones is on site preparing food! Food Hours are Saturdays: 11:00 am – 2:00 pm (appetizers) and Sundays: 10:00 am – 2:00 pm (brunch). His phone number for reservations is 831-659-5100. Please be sure to call to check his schedule and make a reservation!
Last week I brought you Part 1 of my coverage of the August 12thArroyo Seco Winegrowers celebration here: Let’s Have a Big Party to Celebrate Arroyo Seco Winegrowers. Please take a look at that write-up for more information about the Arroyo Seco AVA and the event. Today’s post brings you the rest of the wineries and their wines: Martin Ranch Winery, Chesebro, Bernardus, Blair, J Lohr and Joyce Wine Co. I am grateful to have been able to attend this festive occasion, surrounded by the vineyards we were there to celebrate.
THE WINES
As I indicated last week, despite the small nature of the event, there are always more wines than we can possibly taste and my own note taking was minimal. I am relying on the wineries’ websites for their notes, unless otherwise stated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
This was the first time I had encountered Martin Ranch Winery at one of our local wine events – and I was glad I did. Looking at the range of wines they make, I see a road trip to their Gilroy winery and tasting room in my future!
From their website: “For nearly three decades, winemakers Thérèse and Dan Martin have crafted wines in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The rich history of this husband and wife team is reflected in each bottle of wine, and everything they do…
“In 1993, Thérèse and Dan Martin began planting rows of Cabernet Sauvignon along their 17 acre property, with the intent of selling their fruit to local wineries. Four years later, Thérèse and Dan got the itch to give winemaking a go, and by 2002 they released their first commercial crush of 625 cases.
“That same year, the Martins decided it was time to turn their dream of building a community around a winery into a reality. They embarked on the monumental task of building a commercial winery, including a garden area, pond dock, tasting rooms, barrel room, and production facilities.
“Today our vineyard has rows of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Nebbiolo, and Pinot Noir, in addition to the original Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Each year we produce wine under our three award-winning labels: J.D. Hurley, Soulmate, and Thérèse Vineyards.”
2020 Martin Ranch Thérèse Vineyards Grenache Blanc, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.2% ABV, $35 (#1135)
88 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Soft nectarine, peach and toasted-oak aromas are cut by Meyer lemon on the nose of this bottling. Ripe apricot and pineapple flavors show on the juicy palate, with oak adding spice.” Matt Kettmann, November 2022
My Notes: My only notes were that this was a little sweet – and spicy!
2018 Martin Ranch Thérèse Vineyards Pinot Noir, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.6% ABV, $45 (#1136)
91 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Toasty oak aromas meet with dark-cherry compote on the nose of this bottling. The oak is also strong on the palate, but in pleasant ways, warming up the cherry-compote, anise and clove flavors, as vanilla lingers into the finish.” Matt Kettmann
My Notes: Someone told us we should go back and try this wine right as we were heading out for the day. It was quite good and made in a style I prefer – a richer Pinot Noir.
I’ve been presenting Chesebro Wines in my DC-area wine classes since my very first one, long before we moved here. I admire Chesebro for their quality and affordability – they are easy to fit into the wine class budgets and are a big hit with the class attendees. I’ve been quoting Mark Chesebro in my presentations for years, yet I had never met the man until this Arroyo Seco celebration! It was great to spend a few minutes with him at long last. Alex Lallos, has been a great supporter of my wine education efforts over the years.
We tasted several new releases at their table, some of which I already covered in this recent post, so I only have one of their wines in this article.
2022 Chesebro Grenache Rosé, Cedar Lane, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $23 (#1137)
Winery Notes: “For lovers of our Grenache rosé, you are in for a real treat. Provençal in style, beautiful light pink in color and bright profile. Aromas of fresh picked strawberry, grapefruit skin and raspberry essence. Perfect for a warm poolside or beach afternoon.”
My Notes: I presented the 2020 vintage of this wine in one of my DC-area classes and I like this new release even better!
2022 Bernardus Sauvignon Blanc, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $28 (#1138)
Winery Notes: “Our 2022 Signature Griva bottling has aromas of lime zest and grapefruit, accented by mineral nuances. The palate exhibits rich, crisp, tropical fruit flavors with notes of guava, lime peel, blue agave and grapefruit, supported by a refreshing acidity.” 90 points – Wine Enthusiast
We rarely catch Jeffrey Blair himself in his Carmel Plaza tasting room anymore, so it was great to see him here. I’ve written about Blair’s award-winning wines before, with my most recent post here: Blair: It’s All About Delfina’s Vineyard in the Arroyo Seco!I enjoyed trying some of his new releases.
90 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Hints of orange blossom, kumquat and jasmine show on the nose of this bottling. The palate keeps the wine quite dry, offering wet stone balance to the plumeria and Tuscan melon flavors.” Matt Kettmann
My Review: Sweet Grilled pineapple palate carried over the pineapple with a raw pineapple acidity/bitterness on finish. I liked this wine. August 2023
2018 Blair Estate Chardonnay, Roger Rose Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $40 (#1140)
91 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Hints of butter, toasted Marcona almond, crushed rock and light truffle show on the nose of this single-vineyard expression. Lemon-butter-glazed-toast flavors meet with sea salt and nuts on the palate, where a rocky edge adds complexity.” Matt Kettmann, April 2022
2021 Blair Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.1% ABV, $25 (#1141)
Winery Notes: “…This Blair Rosé of Pinot Noir is a serious “pink” wine. Our goal was an Old World style that would be bright and refreshing. But also one that would be a versatile companion to a wide variety of foods. The nose and palate is full of ripe strawberry, cherry and watermelon. It finishes crisp and dry. Serve well chilled with a Salade Nicoise or an herbed salmon steak fresh off the grill.” 88 points – Wine Enthusiast
My Notes: Hey this is good tasting wine! Time to get back to Blair for a full tasting!
We had the chance at the Monterey Trade event the previous week (see this post) to meet J. Lohr’s Kristen Barnhisel, their winemaker for white wines. She wrote the winery notes below. While they produce a million cases of wine every year, we won’t see most of these wines from Arroyo Seco in the supermarkets. 30% of their production is Arroyo Seco whites. 70% of their production comes from Paso Robles. They have tasting rooms in San Jose and Paso Robles. Check out their website for more information.
2022 J. Lohr Pinot Blanc, F&G Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $35 (#1142)
Winery Notes: “The 2022 F&G Vineyard Pinot Blanc displays aromas of yellow rose, apple, and pear. Complex flavors of ripe melon and Meyer lemon emerge, with a creamy texture and a long finish from fermentation and aging in the large vessels.”
My Notes: I liked this wine.
2022 J. Lohr Sauvignon Blanc, F&G Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $25 (#1143)
Winery Notes: “The 2022 F&G Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc presents aromas of honeysuckle, grapefruit, and a hint of fig. Bright flavors of ripe key lime, vanilla, Meyer lemon, and tarragon take center stage, with a rich palate texture and long finish.”
My Notes: I found this wine a bit tart.
J. Lohr Bay Mist White Riesling, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $13 (#1144)
Winery Notes: “Fun and casual. Unoaked and just slightly sweet. My goes-with-anything, toes-in-the-sand wine.”
My Notes: What a pretty bottling for this wine – reflecting the Monterey Bay and the idea this would be a great beach wine. This off-dry Riesling was a tad sweet for my preferences.
We finally make it to our host for the event – Joyce Wine Co.They have a beautiful property in the heart of Arroyo Seco, surrounded by vineyards. Way too many wines to taste for the end of our day, but we did our best. I look forward to going back there to taste again – after the fall winemaking season calms down. We have been to their tasting room in Carmel Valley Village several times. I last wrote them up here: Joyce: Exploring the Endless Potential of Monterey’s Coastal Terroir.
Winery Notes: “Vibrant and pronounced, a nose of peach and gooseberry open up to a palate of citrus and spring time earthiness.”
2022 Joyce Rosé, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $25 (#1146)
Winery Notes: “A savory-leaning nose of tomato water and oyster shell sets the tone for a lightly-fruited, pale pink thirst quencher with minerality that will make you drool.”
My Notes: Perfume on the nose and a tartness on the palate.
2022 Joyce Albariño, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $28 (#1147)
Winery Notes: “Warm-weather, tropical fruits lead the nose followed by white flowers on an ocean breeze. Bright and refreshing, supple texture and minerality on the palate.”
Winery Notes: “This Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre blend yields concentrated flavor, high acidity and strong tannins–all elements that suggest this wine can be cellared for many years.”
My Notes: I detected some of that “Central Coast funk” on the nose – that funky aroma or flavor I often get with Central Coast Syrahs. The plate was spicy and quite tasty! August 2023
2021 Joyce Syrah, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $30 (#1149)
Winery Notes: “A classic representation of the varietal with noticeable, dusty tannin, dark fruits and earthy, smoky, woody notes hitting throughout.”
The fruit comes from Joyce vineyards, plus Zabala plus Cedar Lane – sounds like a winning combo!
My Notes: Dark ruby in glass. Grass on the nose. Relatively light on palate. August 2023
THE TASTING ROOMS
Because there were so many wineries present at this event, I recommend checking their individual websites for information on where and when to taste their wines. You can taste Martin Ranch wines at their winery in Gilroy. Chesebro, Bernardus and Joyce tasting rooms are all located in Carmel Valley Village. Blair’s is in Carmel-by-the-Sea. J Lohr has two tasting locations: San Jose and Paso Robles.
On August 12th, the Arroyo Seco Winegrowers celebrated their 40th Anniversary at the Joyce Winery in Soledad. This was mostly the vineyard owners and the wineries celebrating their great partnership in making terrific wines, putting the Arroyo Seco AVA on the map. I asked my friends at Chesebro Wines if they could get us in – thank you, Alex Lallos! This post is Part 1 – be sure to read next week’s post for Part 2!
For us coastal dwellers, it was a pretty long drive to get down to Soledad, but well worth it! It was a beautiful, warm day. The event was relatively small, with about 20 wineries offering tastes along with gourmet appetizers by Michael Jones and others. We had to be very careful with our tastes due to the drive home. We stuck to our practice of sharing tastes and dumping the rest.
The setting was a wine lover’s dream. Joyce has a beautiful facility nestled in the heart of the Arroyo Seco AVA, surrounded by vineyards. The event took place inside its barrel room, keeping us cool from the sun and heat outside. It was a casual, low-key event with happy vintners and farmers celebrating what they together have created. During the event, I met some wineries I had never heard of like Scott Family Estate, OCNAUTIC and Martin Ranch Winery, and got to talk to vineyard growers like Luis Zabala and vintners including Mark Chesebro (finally!)! I am looking forward to visiting Zabala Vineyards sometime after harvest, when things calm way back down.
ABOUT THE ARROYO SECO AVA
The Arroyo Seco AVA was established in 1983. That was fairly early in Monterey County’s AVA development. (Read about all of Monterey County’s AVA’s on the Monterey Vintners & Growers Association website.) We became fans of the Arroyo Seco AVA many years ago through the wines of Chesebro and Mercy, the latter, sadly, no longer in operation. Now, when I see a winery offering wines from Arroyo Seco, I jump at the opportunity to try them – from delicate and flavorful whites from vineyards including Cedar Lane, Griva and Zabala to the big reds found at Shale Canyon.
A wine I really miss from the region is Mercy’s Syrah from Zabala Vineyards. I have yet to figure out who is making Syrah out of those grapes today (in addition to Luis Zabala himself!)
“The Arroyo Seco AVA encompasses portions of two towns; Soledad and Greenfield in California’s Monterey County. In the rural, western extremes of these townships the Santa Lucia Mountains rise dramatically, creating the western boundary of the Salinas Valley, and provide the unique setting for one of California’s earliest recognized viticultural area. It is in this landscape that a transverse waterway from the mountains carved the distinct geography and geology, and ultimately converges with the maritime influences of the deep, cold waters of the Pacific Ocean found 40 miles north at Monterey Bay. Ultimately, the confluences of so many distinct geographic factors unite to form this small, finite growing region.
“Granted federal AVA status on April 15, 1983, the Arroyo Seco appellation is steeped in winegrowing history and rooted in the geographic features of a waterway named “Arroyo Seco”. This seasonal creek brings rain water and snowmelt from the Santa Lucia Mountains and the Los Padres National Forrest to the Salinas Valley. Over the millenniums the pressure of this natural water-release created a diverse geography; carving landscape, dumping rocks and filling a deep subteranian aquifer with clean, pure water. Ultimately, the esteemed authors of the appellation cited the unique terrain formed by the Arroyo Seco as the foundation of AVA’s boundaries. Within the AVA’s boundaries the first commercial vineyard, Mission Ranch, was propogated by the Mirassou family in 1961, over two decades before the region received its AVA status.
“Consisting of 18,240 acres the Arroyo Seco AVA is one of the smallest AVAs in California (by contrast the largest California AVA is 3,008,000 acres, while other coastal appellations dwarf the Arroyo Seco AVA; the Santa Cruz Mountains is 408,000 acres, the Russian River Valley is 96,000 acres, the Santa Maria Valley is over 80,000 acres, the Sta Rita Hills AVA is 30,720 acres, and the Santa Lucia Highlands is 22,000 acres). It is a finite piece of terrain that has always been considered, by virtue of the definition of an AVA, one of most the “distinguished” places to grow grapes in Califorina. In fact, of the over 100 California AVAs the Arroyo Seco was one of the earliest to be recognized – the 15th AVA (tied for no. 15 with two other AVAs) to be granted such distinction.”
I like to use the description of the AVA from Mercy’s former website in my classes:
“Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco AVA is many things: windblown, numbingly cold, fog laden, semi-arid, rock strewn, austerely beautiful. In essence, the perfect grape source for Mercy wines…the wines are sourced from three contiguous vineyards, all located in a specific part of the appellation – The Ancient River Channel…Found along the banks of a now seasonal creek, this unique riverbed corridor features ideal maritime climate with rocky, meager surface soil and hardpan just feet below ground. Low yields, unique soil attributes and meticulous farming combine to produce flavorful and distinct grapes. Grown in such a dramatic setting, the wines truly are at the Mercy of Mother Nature.”
THE WINES
Today I am presenting wines we tasted at that event from four wineries: Scott Family Estate, OCNAUTIC, Muirwood, and Luli Wines. I’ll write up the rest of the wineries next week. Despite the small nature of the event, there are always more wines than we can possibly taste and my own note taking was minimal. I am relying on the wineries’ websites for their notes, unless otherwise stated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
Scott Family Estate is part of the Rutherford Wine Company focused on Arroyo Seco wines. It produces high volumes of wine (on Monterey standards) and distributed nationally. This was the first time I had seen Scott Family Estate wines at our local wine events. I’m always excited to “discover” wineries right in our own backyard. According to its webpage:
“Witness the exquisite harmony achieved through the meticulous fusion of cool-climate varietals and the pristine terroir they call home. This union is a symphony orchestrated by the interplay of specific soil compositions, judicious clonal choices, elevated vineyard sites, and the microclimate’s gentle caress.
“The outcome is a tapestry of flavors that pay homage to their origins. Our Burgundian style Chardonnays and Pinot Noir showcase this enchanting connection, inviting you to savor the fruit of unparalleled quality, each sips an eloquent ode to its unique growing enclave.”
2021 Scott Family Estate Chardonnay, Dijon Clone, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County,14.5% ABV, $36 (#1129)
Winery Notes: “The 2021 harvest in Monterey County was condensed following a long, cool growing season. The extended cool conditions and lack of hot summer days resulted in high acids and low sugars. The season’s long hang times resulted in refined development, as well as wines with great depth and exceptionally concentrated fruit flavors and density.”
My Notes: My only note was that I liked this Chardonnay. Well balanced and tasty.
2021 Scott Family Estate Pinot Noir, Dijon Clone, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $45 (#1130)
Winery Notes: “A soft and decadent 100% Pinot Noir with aromas and flavors of cherry, sage, ripe raspberries and earthy notes. Richly textured and medium-bodied with balanced acidity creating a smooth, lingering finish. Enjoy this elegant Pinot Noir now or save for up to seven years.”
My Notes: My only note on this wine was that it was typical for the region.
“Embark on Your Next Wine Adventure with Ocnautic”
OCNAUTIC is part of the ASV family of wines with vineyards in Arroyo Seco and Paso Robles. Muirwood is also part of this group. OCNAUTIC is located in Paso Robles and focus on Paso Robles and Monterey wines.
From their website: “If you believe the legend, a three-masted schooner named the Ocnautic sailed the seas in the early 1800s. It was renowned for many wonderous voyages and inspired many to take to the seas in the spirit of discovery.
“Thus, we named our adventurous, boldly styled wines from the California Central Coast OCNAUTIC. Great wine takes you on an enchanting journey of discovery. We invite you to join us.”
2022 OCNAUTIC Grenache Blanc, Wiley Vineyard, Monterey County (#1131)
Winery Notes from ASVwines.com: “Soft aromas of white flower, honeysuckle, and citrus peel are followed by flavors of rich pineapple, stone fruit, and refreshing acidity on the finish.” 96% Grenache Blanc, 4% Viognier.
My Notes: This wine has a very cool, octagonal and nautical label. I detected some grass on the nose and otherwise have no tasting notes.
“WINES CRAFTED WITH CARE FROM MONTEREY COUNTY’S RENOWNED ARROYO SECO VINEYARDS”
I have presented a Muirwood wine before from a tasting I did at A Taste of Monterey in Cannery Row. Muirwood is located in the Greenfield area. I found this description on their website:
“Our approach is grounded in the belief that the best wines come from the best grapes. This translates into attention to detail at every step of the grape growing and winemaking process; from the inspection of soil profiles and climate conditions, to determining which root stocks and clonal varieties are best suited to the growing site, to the selection and blending of individual lots.”
2022 Muirwood Unoaked Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1132)
Winery Notes: “Citrus bouquet, mango and guava on palate, elegant and complex.”
My Notes: This Chardonnay was quite heavy, rich and flavorful on the palate. August 2023
2021 Muirwood Cabernet SauvignonArroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1133)
Winery Notes: “Black currant and cassis, toasty notes, complex finish.”
My Notes: Very dark ruby. Oak on the nose, followed by a nice palate of dark fruit. August 2023
I first wrote about Luli Wineshere. A snippet from their website tells their story:
“Wine offers expression of people-in-relation rather than selves apart. Luli, the result of a partnership between a master sommelier, a distinguished vineyard manager and an expert winemaker, provides a particularly happy example of the way in which wine creates community, because Luli is itself a collective enterprise. Sommelier, grape-grower, and winemaker, we three approach wine from different angles, but work synergistically to craft exceptional hand-crafted vintages at comfortable prices. We thrive together—and have fun doing so. And why not? The pleasure of wine supplies us with a way to enjoy life. So open a bottle, pour the swirling liquid into a glass, and celebrate, as we do, the bonds between family and friends…” This is a joint effort by sommelier Sara Floyd and Mark and Jeff Pisoni.
Winery Notes: “Fresh, vibrant, and lifted in all regards, the 2022 Luli Sauvignon Blanc packs a youthful punch from start to finish. A pale straw hue intermixes with tinges of green as this wine shimmers in the glass. Notes of lime zest, lemongrass, and juicy grapefruit are more pronounced, as wet stone and a hint of fresh herbs offer unexpected complexity. While the palate may first show the crisp acidity, citrus driven flavors soon dominate before giving way to additional layers of volume and texture earned with three months of aging on the lees in all neutral French oak barrels. This delicious Sauvignon Blanc is best enjoyed cold, young, and often.
My Notes: Grassy, crisp, and tasty.
THE TASTING ROOMS
To my knowledge, Scott Family Estate, OCNAUTIC, Muirwood, and Luli Wines do not have tasting rooms. You can taste Muirwood wines at A Taste of Monterey. Check their websites for more information.
by Central Coast Sharon and Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos!
THE STORY
We met David Baird of Folktale Winery at the 30th Anniversary Monterey Winemakers Celebration in Carmel-by-the-Sea this past June. He offered us, my friend Erin O’Reilly and me a tour of the winery and a tasting. We could not manage to schedule our visits for the same date, so we visited him separately. Erin visited him in late June and my partner and I, in early August – during perhaps the busiest wine tasting week of our summer! Lesson learned: pace these things out! We each deeply appreciated the private tour and detailed discussions we had about the evolution of Folktale wines and his own path to becoming a winemaker!
Readers: You are getting a real treat today, as this post is co-authored with my friend Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos! My notes today are a combination of what I think I heard from David during our visit 😊, significant input from Erin, and information from the Folktale website.
If you drive out Carmel Valley Road just a few miles from Highway 1, you will see the Folktale entrance on the right. Located on the site of the former Chateau Julien Wine Estate, this winery has a beautiful, spacious setting for all the outdoor events it holds there. In addition to its tasting room, Folktale has 5 acres of vineyards, an estate home, and a 10,000 square foot barrel room. In 2015, winemaker Gregory Ahn purchased it and renamed it Folktale Winery & Vineyards.
When they first opened as Folktale, we noticed right away that it wasn’t going to be a quick taste of wines, but more of an experience – sit down, spend some time with us, enjoy our wine garden. What a great destination for weddings or a relaxed wine tasting. With its proximity to Highway 1, the location is a great one for locals and tourists alike.
The pandemic hit them hard with the mandated shutdowns, but they found a creative way to come out of it, creating a popular outdoor dining experience in their wine garden, differentiating itself from the typical Monterey tasting room. It has evolved into a sit down, order some food, taste the wines, and listen to music kind of place – and has always been a great wedding venue. Shoot, they even have a Sunday brunch! I have friends who enjoyed being able to go there with their families to enjoy food and wine in the height of the pandemic.
Folktale prioritizes best vineyard practices and finding more appropriate wines for their growing locations. Their estate 5-acre vineyard is “100% organically farmed meticulously by hand.” Their 300 acre vineyard in Arroyo Seco is Sustainability In Practice (SIP) Certified®. That vineyard is being replanted over time. I think David told me 40% of their production comes from and long-term relationships with other vineyards in the area. They like the sandy, rocky, granitic soil, great for grapevines.
Since taking ownership, they have already transformed the barrel room into a full-fledged wine production facility, moving in the tanks and adding a catwalk, a new cooling system, and upgraded electrical for production operations. David shared with us the longer vision to replant the vineyards on the property and turn the estate home into a luxury hotel-type operation. Today they produce about 15,000 cases of wine across 30 different wines, reflecting their diverse portfolio. They have a goal of increasing production 10% per year.
David was excited for harvest, hoping the nice weather would hold through veraison, harvest and crush, all outdoors activities before the juice is brought inside for fermentation. Due to our cooler spring, harvest was looking a week or two late (as of early August). He said he checks the weather every day – every warm day we get helps us catch up. He suggested maybe we think it has been colder than it really has – that we coastal dwellers are just “sissies.” 😊Unfortunately, the previous couple of years can’t be used for comparison due to the wildfires of 2020 and the extreme heat of 2021. And this is predicted to be an El Niño year, another concern for the vineyards. I am hoping the warm August and September temperatures have brought things back in line – before the fall rains come!
Sangiovese
After touring the wine production facility, we walked through the vineyard on the way back to the Tasting Room. Currently, there is Sangiovese planted on site, but it is too cool of a climate for that. They plan to rip it out and plant something more appropriate, such as Chardonnay – not yet decided. We talked about the new Carmel Coastal AVA which has been proposed. It would encompass the Folktale property. It has been taking a long time for it to come up for discussion and decision.
Our mutual assessment: We are excited and hopeful for Folktale’s potential in the coming years. They have the perfect venue to showcase everything Monterey can do with wine and it certainly looks like they’re going to embrace the opportunity ahead of them. Their strategic plan is solid and they give David the leeway to lean into his creativity to dare to do something different.
“David Baird is an innovative winemaker with his roots deeply grown in the vineyards of the Central Coast of California. With his winemaking degree from Cal Poly, David has previously made wine at Halter Ranch, Edna Valley, Justin Winery and Fess Parker.
“In 2015, David moved back home to the Monterey peninsula where he began collaborating with Greg and Madigan. Together they opened Folktale Winery & Vineyards in the summer of 2015, with a focus on high quality, delicious wines that embrace organic farming and natural winemaking. A blank slate for Baird, the opportunity to establish an entirely new winemaking strategy for a brand-new winery was a little daunting at first, but ultimately has provided the freedom to be creative. “There is a lot of fear and adventure in creating wines for a new winery. There’s no safety net below you. During our first year at Folktale we played it safe with very practical decisions. Since then, we’ve had a lot of fun creating new small batch wines like a Pet-Nat, whole cluster barrel fermented Syrah, and a Rosé of Grenache Blanc.”
“Folktale is the perfect place to stretch his wings. Having grown to nearly 500 acres of estate vines in Monterey County, the winery offers exceptional opportunities to innovate. “The Central Coast offers such an excellent selection of varietals, but it hasn’t seen much winemaking development over the last 50 years. My goal is to reinvent the wheel a little, refreshing old techniques to come up with new ideas. We want to have some fun while evolving as a winery and as a brand, all the while focusing on fine wines that people will enjoy, and new wines that people may not otherwise try.”
THE WINES
I have 7 wines to present to you today from our overlapping tastings across 3 labels: Folktale, Le Mistral and Common Thread. Winery notes come from my conversation with David, the Folktale website, or as otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
We were curious how they got the Le Mistral label, as we knew it as belonging to Joseph Phelps. Here’s the story: Le Mistral was sold by Phelps to Brosseau and Folktale acquired it from them. Their Joseph’s Blend is in honor of Joseph Phelps!
Le Mistral is a nod to the howling winds that whip down through the Rhône Valley, similar to what we experience in the Salinas Valley with the coastal winds that can tear through vines, prolong the growing season, and concentrate flavors in the berries. We feel this to some extent almost every afternoon in our little coastal town.
Common Thread is the winemaker’s own label. The name “Common Thread” comes from a single palmar crease on the hand associated with various conditions, including Down syndrome. The label has the outline of three hands, David’s and his two sons, one of whom has the condition. Sales from this wine go to supporting non-profits. You can the find Common Thread wine label online and in local shops throughout the region. Cheers to that!
Winemaker’s Notes from The Wine Stop: “Pétillant Natural is a natural sparkling wine using the ancestral method. Bottled just before the primary fermentation finishes, the natural effervescence and sediment are the evidence of things finishing in the bottle. The wine is bright, with notes of green apple, banana cream pie, grapefruit blossom, and undertones of guava and pineapple. The palate is lively and fresh, benefitting from the abundance of bubbles and bright acidity.”
Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Light and sparkly in the glass. Champagne notes on the nose. Soft and creamy on the palate with white peach and nectarine. Everything you’d want in a pét nat. Well balanced with bright acidity. They did disgorge and David shared a few highly entertaining videos that included dry ice and bursting bottles. Craftsmanship at its finest. August 2023
2022 Le Mistral Grenache Barrel Sample, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1121)
Winemaker’s Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves.
My Review: We tasted this as a barrel sample. Resembles a light Pinot Noir in the glass – pale ruby. Light cherry nose. Very balanced with cranberry and sour cherry flavors. Good tannins on the back palate. August 2023
NV Folktale The Lion for Real – an orange wine, 5-Year Solera, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $40 (#1122)
I didn’t know anything about solera wines, so David gave us a little tutorial on how this one is made. Again, my notes are a little garbled, so this is how I think he explained it: You create a pyramid of the barrel racking system and connect them with hoses. You place your fresh wine in the top barrel, and continue to move it down, one barrel at a time, as you continue to top off the lower barrels. By the time you get to bottling wine from the bottom barrel, you really don’t know the exact blend or vintage of what is in the bottle. David is excited to play with these types of wines. It is these kinds of ventures that prove him to be a creative winemaker.
I found this Wine Spectator article which explains solera winemaking far better than my notes:
“A solera system is a collection of barrels, traditionally stacked (with the bottom row containing the oldest vintage), for the purpose of fractional blending across vintages…It’s a way to create a house style, and to keep a historic thread running through a beverage that is made year after year. I find it helpful to picture a tower of barrels from multiple vintages, with the youngest barrels on the top of the pile and the oldest at the bottom. You start by removing some wine from the oldest barrel on the bottom, but then you replace that missing portion with wine from the next oldest barrel, and that portion is then replaced with the next oldest barrel, and so on down the line so that the missing amount is always replaced by the next-oldest available wine. Because you never entirely empty the barrels, the barrel on the bottom will always have at least a small amount of the oldest vintage.”
Winery Notes: This 5-year Solera is made from Riesling and Viognier wines.
Wine Enthusiast – 90 points: “A mustard-yellow shade in the glass, this skin-fermented, solera-style orange wine shows ripe melon, fresh tangerine and apple-juice aromas on the nose. The texture is very grippy on the sip, where apple and orange-peel flavors meet with a slight tonic element, proving rather clean.” — Matt Kettmann.
Our Review: Cloudy, creamy and light brown sugar in the glass. Nice bouquet of peach and apricot with a touch of Mandarin orange, with those notes following over to the palate. Fruity. August 2023
Erin’s addition: This is the wine that caught our attention at the 30th Annual Monterey Winemaker’s Celebration. That we have a local winemaker playing with orange wines and showcasing these bottles at a festival was noteworthy. David’s exploring winemaking beyond the mainstream (even though orange wines are arguably one of the oldest wine styles going back millennia). I was actually surprised that the wine wasn’t as grippy as I was expecting and still had noticeable freshness. No doubt thanks to the multifractional blending and maturation that is a solera system. Anyone who loves orange wine needs to get their hands on a bottle of The Lion for Real.
Kudos to Folktale for supporting David in exploring these exciting styles.
2021 Folktale The Ruler Pinot Noir, Central Coast, 13% ABV, $75 (#1123)
Winemaker’s Notes: “The savory and rich mouthfeel spotlights dark fruit, dried herbs, forest floor, and tobacco leaf notes on wild chalky tannins.”This wine includes grapes from both Monterey and San Benito Counties. The grapes are from Monterey and San Benito Counties: 44% Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 42% Cienega Valley AVA, 14% Chalone AVA. As David said, “Trying to make the best Pinot requires going outside SLH.” 45% whole cluster, 30% new oak.
Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Bright ruby in the glass. Robust for a Pinot Noir, with that bright Monterey cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. Toast, caramel, lavender, a touch of pepper and a hint of sous bois that points to exciting things to come for this wine. Tasty. August 2023
2021 COMMON THREAD 100% Whole Cluster Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 12.0 % ABV, $40 (#1124)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Fermenting wines whole cluster, or not taking the berries off the stem, produces wines that tend to have an elegant savory and dried herb quality that just fermenting grapes on their own can’t produce. It’s in this vein that this Pinot Noir was crafted – from the organically farmed Pelio Vineyard in Carmel Valley…”
Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: “This whole-cluster bottling, which supports Down’s syndrome initiatives to honor the winemaker’s son, offers dark berry jam aromas and a hint of herb on the nose. Firm tannins frame the sip, where plump red currant, lavender and violet flavors lead into a peppery finish.” — Matt Kettmann
Erin’s Review: A pretty red, featuring cherry, strawberry, currant, kirsch, and supple floral flavors. More fluid than dense, this unfolds nicely with soft, ripe tannins and a velvety finish. Despite the ample core fruit, this is a restrained, elegant Monterey Pinot. June 2023
2018 Folktale The Hound Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.7% ABV, $95 (#1032)
Winemaker’s Notes: “THE HOUND is a classic blend of Bordeaux varietals, combining 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, and 9% Cabernet Franc sourced 89% from Massa Estate Vineyard and 11% from Cedar Lane Vineyard. The not-so-little brother of our Reserve Bordeaux blend, this wine is complex and elegant with aromas and flavors of blueberry, mocha, floral lilac, frisée, dusty vanilla, brown sugar, creme de cassis, pencil lead, cedar wood, and hibiscus. The texture offers nice richness with round and full tannins. The Hound is a beautiful, bold wine that will benefit from aging.”
Erin’s Review: “Ripe, and well-built, with a racy core of blackberry, black currant, red plum, melted brown sugar, warm baking spice, an inlay of violet, and a touch of graphite. Grippy, generous tannins with a tug on the focused finish. (Let’s see what this tastes like in another 5 years, it’s still showing young, and probably has another 5-10 to go – comfortably. I hope the hold some of this back in their library.)”June 2023 (Central Coast Sharon previously presented this wine on Decanting Monterey here)
2020 Le Mistral Syrah, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $60 (#1125)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Brosseau Vineyard in the Chalone AVA has a remarkable combination of limestone soils, weather patterns and organic farming that produces intense minerality, texture and richness in its wines. The Syrah was natively fermented in bins and 500L puncheons, then aged for 11 months in 17% new French oak barriques producing a wine that has rich, dark flavors and can be enjoyed for years to come.” Co-fermented with 4-8% Viognier.
My Review: Dark ruby in color. Alcohol with a touch of earth, burnt oak and bubble gum on the nose. Nice intense berries and dark plum on the palate. August 2023
The Folktale Tasting Room (Wine Garden) is located at 8940 Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel, CA 93923. Phone: (831) 293-7500. They are open: Monday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday: 11:30 – 7:30; Sunday: 10:00-4:00. They are closed Tuesday & Wednesday. They also have a Sunday brunch from 10-4 and have recently begun offering tours every Thursday – Monday at 11:30 am, 1:00 pm and 2:30 pm. You can get more information and make a reservation here.
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