Tagged: Arroyo Seco AVA

Bernardus Delights Its Members with an Over-the-Top Marinus Dinner!

THE STORY

In November, we attended our third over-the-top Marinus dinner at the Bernardus Winery Tasting Room. I have to say, this is our favorite local event of the year and, I don’t know how, but it just keeps getting more impressive. The 2023 Marinus dinner was an elegant affair. The tables were decorated so beautifully and the service was impeccable. The wines and the food were exquisite, all the way down to the imported flavored French butters!  The Marinus blends are aging nicely and the multi-course food pairings created by Carmel Valley’s Chef Jerome Viel were sumptuous. You can read more about Jerome here: https://jeromescarmelvalleymarket.com/chef-jerome-viel/.

I will confess that I bugged Heather relentlessly about the date for this event, as I knew it was coming and we had been traveling. I for sure didn’t want to miss this event and last year, we got the last 4 seats! Thanks for putting up with me, Heather! When is it next year? 😊

With the recent retirement of winemaker Dean DeKorth, we were hosted by his replacement, Jim McCabe.  We had met him at the previous Marinus dinner and he hosted the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod at the winery this past summer. Jim was fully in his element on this night, informing us about the wines and happenings at the winery. His presence and conversations with the many attendees were so valuable and appreciated.

As if we didn’t already feel special enough, our meal began with the final 3 bottles of the 1993 Marinus – the year of their first bottling of this red blend on its 30th Anniversary. Making a fine Bordeaux wine in Carmel Valley was the vision and dream of founder Ben Pon, who passed away in 2019. And I must say that the 1993 was drinking fine, giving credence and confidence in the longevity of later vintages. Ben Pon’s vision has indeed been realized!

THE WINEMAKER’S STORY

Jim McCabe did not start out wanting to be a winemaker.  Originally from Massachusetts, he got into graduate school in Sonoma to pursue a Masters in Comparative Literature. He took a job at Bernardus while finishing his thesis.

He was impressed by the 2006 Bernardus Ingrid’s Vineyard Pinot Noir. He found it bigger, fuller, and more enjoyable than the jug wines which were so popular back then.  😊 As a result, he started to take winemaking more seriously. Dean DeKorth, his boss and mentor, taught him much about wine appreciation and winemaking.

THE WINERY

To kick off our event, winemaker Jim McCabe addressed the group with a brief history of the Bernardus Winery and the Marinus vineyard. Motor sport enthusiast and golfer Ben Pon moved here in 1989-1990. He noticed Durney was making intense Cabernets in Carmel Valley/Cachagua and he wanted to see what the area could be for wines. He had a vision to create a small pocket of Bordeaux in Carmel Valley. He wanted to explore what varieties would do well there. He planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to see what they could do, then added Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. You can read more about the founding and history of Bernardus Winery here.

Over the course of the evening, Jim shared a few tidbits about the winery and winemaking:

  • Bernardus hand harvests its grapes. Jim shared that there is a big difference in quality between machine and hand picking. Machines enter into the mix “Matters Other than Grapes” – MOG.
  • Making Marinus wine is like “squidding.” Seriously, Jim did say that…
  • One of their challenges is how to get grape growing and harvesting right in Cachagua, with its big diurnal shift. Cabernet Sauvignon needs sustained heat. So, they have to pick late.
  • As of the dinner on November 9th, they had still not harvested their Cabernet Sauvignon!  Due to the rains, followed by a cool spring/summer without wildfires, the region enjoyed one of its best and longest growing seasons.
  • The Marinus Vineyard is also a great place for Merlot. They have put a higher percentage of Merlot in the blend over the years. They reevaluate the percentages of the various grape varieties every year to develop their strategy for each vintage’s blend.
  • Marinus is a limited production red blend. They try to get the balance of varietals to show the best bottle – “the best we can” – vs having it taste the same every year. The blend, with Cabernet Sauvignon as the dominant varietal, changes from year to year. The Signature Marinus is the best of the best. It can be a different blend than the Marinus in a given year.
  • They prefer French barrels and are able to buy 500 new barrels per year. Some old ones get purchased by a local brewery!

THE WINES

Winery tasting notes come from their website, the tasting sheet, or conversations with the winemaker or tasting room staff unless otherwise indicated. I quickly jotted down the blends at a subsequent visit to the tasting room, so I may not have them exactly right. You can read more about most of these wines on their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2015 Bernardus Marinus Signature Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, $125 (#889) 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Petit Verdot, 12% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc

Winery Notes: “This 2015 vintage of our highly regarded Signature Marinus exhibits a beautiful, deep robe. The aromas are redolent with dark red fruits and dried spices. On the palate we find bright ripe-red fruit flavors and notes of cedar on a long, rich finish, promising a long life to come! A wonderful example from our estate vineyard!” Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo Uncorked! Awarded TOP RED WINE!

My Review: This was the wine we enjoyed as we walked in the door. I don’t have new notes, so am providing mine from July, which was a blind tasting: Dark berry, cherry and caramel notes with at first hints of barnyard and hay on the nose. Earthy palate of dark fruits with a touch of smoke on the finish. Much more of a big cab style wine. We like it. July 2023

1993 Bernardus Marinus Red Table Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, $30 (#887)

Winery Notes: This was the first year they produced Marinus. The grapes were planted in 1989. It was made by winemaker Don Blackburn. From K&L Wine Merchants: “According to Wine Spectator: “A new Bordeaux-style blend that’s firm and intense, if a bit on the tannic side. Currant, cherry and anise flavors are well focused and well proportioned, and finish with dry tannins. Try after 1997.” (08/1996)

My Review: This wine was perfectly paired with the black cod. Dark ruby in color. Spicy, black pepper on the nose. So smooth and rich, elegant. If we were tasting bling, no one would guess it was 30 years old. It’s similar to one of those fine, aged Bordeaux wines we open at home sometimes. November 2023

2010 Bernardus Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV, $65 (#39) 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc

Winery Notes: “Our 2010 Marinus exhibits its typical deeply colored robe.  The aromas express beautiful red fruits accented by classic notes of cedar.  The delicious flavors are soft and full, with spicy dark cherry and plus flavors and a smooth texture of well integrated tannins.  Although drinking beautifully now, this Marinus will age gracefully for many years to come.”

My Review: Served with the duck confit and smoked lentils. Inky/dark garnet in the glass. Extraction is great says Jim. Slightly earthy nose. Palate is still rich but leaner. Still smooth.  We’ve had this vintage many times over the years and it has been interesting to watch its progression.  Several years ago, we thought it might be past its prime, but it might have been the bottle in the tasting room.  Since that time, as on this night, it has been drinking well. Hang in there, 2010! November 2023

2013 Bernardus Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey, 14.1% ABV, $75 (#157) 35% Caberbet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 25% Petit Verdot, 8% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc

Winery Notes: “The robe of our 2013 Marinus is a very deep crimson. On the nose we find dried cranberry aromas accented by subtle spice notes. The palate is intensely flavored with impressions of bright red cherry and plum. The finish shows excellent tannic structure promising a long life for this vintage of Marinus, much like that of a fine Bordeaux.”

My Review: Served with the pork tenderloin. This is the vintage that caused me to fall in love with Marinus and become a club member. Inky in the glass. Smooth nose of cedar and velvety fruit. Dark berries on the palate. Blackberry and cherry on the finish. Still a favorite. November 2023.

2017 Bernardus Signature Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $125  (#891)

Winery Notes: This was the first tasting of this vintage – opened for us on this special night.  No notes are available yet on their website.

My Review: Dark in the glass. Umami bouquet – go figure. Fresh on the palate. Bright black and red berries on the palate with a licorice finish. A lovely finish. I think it is still young, but the winery thinks it is ready to drink. Showing well and perfectly paired with the venison medallion – a good choice. November 2023.

2014 Bernardus Marinus, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $75 (#290) 52% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec

Winery Notes: “The robe of our 2014 Marinus is very deeply-colored. The aromas exude beautifully ripened red fruits accented by subtle spice notes. The mouthfeel is very soft and full expressing delicious flavors of ripe cherry and plum. The finish is well structured with soft tannins promising a long life for this superb bottle, similar to a fine Bordeaux.”

My Review: Inky in the glass. Tobacco on the nose. Deep intense berries on the palate with a minty finish. -goes with the earthiness of the raclette. Lovely. November 2023

2019 Bernardus Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 9.0% ABV, valued at $50, not for sale (#1215)             

Winery Notes: Inspired by Sauternes. Can only make this when the conditions are right. Has to be a humid, wet year. Bernardus has only made this 3 times: 2011, 2012, 2019. Can open it and keep it open.

My Review: Honey on the nose. Viscous, with a nice balance between the sweet and orange blossom and a touch of tartness. I enjoyed this wine – a perfect pairing with our orange almond cake. November 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The Bernardus Tasting room, located at 5 West Carmel Valley Road, is open every afternoon except Monday, with slightly different hours each day. Reservations are recommended but not required. You can see more information and book a tasting here, via email tastingroom@bernardus.com, or by calling them at 831-298-8021

 © Decanting Monterey 2023

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Corral Wine Co.: A Beautiful Portfolio of Tasty Wines!

THE STORY – A Beautiful Portfolio of Tasty Wines!

On a lovely September day, the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod decided to stop in at Corral Wine Co. to experience their beautiful portfolio of tasty wines. There, we were warmly greeted and hosted by their expert staff, LeAnne and Marissa. It was a nice, quiet afternoon to taste some new releases, as well as retaste some of our favorites.

My last post about Corral Wine Co.  was here: Impressive Corral Lineup for the Monterey AWS WinedUP Friday! A few of today’s wines were also in this post – but I am providing updated notes here. My notetaking can be really detailed or really skimpy when traveling with the Wine Pod – depends if we are “working” or simply enjoying ourselves – and how many tastings we have done in a single day. 

We’ve been fans of Corral since they first opened their tasting room in January 2022 and find their young winemaker Adrien Valenzuela to be one of the most exciting, promising, up and coming winemakers we have encountered. His versatility seems to have no bounds – from a flavorful, delicate Sauvignon Blanc to his creative “See What You Can Do With It” red blend. 

Sourcing grapes from some of the regions very best vineyards is key to their success – from the correct side of Paso (depending on the varietal) to some of my personal favorite vineyards in Monterey County and beyond to San Benito County.

THE WINES

Today I am presenting 8 Corral Wine Co. wines from this September tasting, plus a few we tasted earlier in the year.  Some of these wines have been presented here before. Winery notes come from the tasting sheet or their website, unless otherwise noted. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2022 Corral Sauvignon Blanc, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.4% ABV, $30 (#1088)

Winery Notes: “Vibrant aromas of lemongrass, citrus, fersh herb, and guava with hints of gooseberry. Flavors of lemon, peach, and citrus finishing with a nice minerality and racing acidity.”

My Review: Straw in the grass. A slightly sweet nose of grapefruit & melon. The nose follows over to the palate with a grapefruit twist on the finish. It’s a lot, in a good way. September 2023

(Honeydew on the nose. A nice, round palate finishing with pineapple and citrus fruits. July 2023)

2021 Corral Rosé of Pinot Noir, River Road, Monterey County, 13.25% ABV, $26 (#1206)

Winery Notes: “Bright and delicate, with aromas of strawberry and orange blossom. Aged in 100% Stainless Steel for 10 months.”

My Review: Ballet slipper pink in color. Sweet Bouquet of honeysuckle. Rich in flavor – a touch sweeter than I generally prefer – but just barely. April 2023

2022 Corral Rosé of Pinot Noir, Russell Estate, Monterey County, 13.25% ABV, $28 (#1207)

Winery Notes: “Bright and delicate with hints of strawberry, cotton candy, and hibiscus. Flavors of raspberry tea and white peach linger through the finish.”

My Review: Pale pink in color. Honeysuckle on the nose. White peach and floral on the palate. Quite nice but a tad sweet for me. 100% patio wine. Great for the beach. September 2023

2021 Corral Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $38 (#1208)

Winery Notes: “Rich tropical aromatics of grilled pineapple, ripe fruit, and toasted coconut with hints of sweet baking spices. Subtle flavors of oak and spice finish on the palate with a nice oily body. Long lasting finish enhances the richness of this Chardonnay.”

My Review: Light golden in the glass. Toasted coconut on the nose, almost Sauternes like. Banana on the palate. September 2023

2019 Corral Pinot Noir, KW Ranch, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $58 (#841)

Winery Notes: “Rich flavors of dark cherry, plum, and nutmeg. Elegant and lasting finish.”

My Review: Pale garnet in color. Caramel on the nose. Spices including nutmeg on the mid palate. A bit of tobacco on the finish. September 2023

(Inky ruby in the glass.  Smells like dark fruit, almost raisiny.  Very bold on the palate – big and smooth.  I’m not a Pinot Noir lover, but I truly like this wine – we have some at home! September 2022)

2019 “See What You Can Do With It” Red Blend, Monterey County, 14.2% ABV, $62 (#843) 

Winery Notes: “50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Syrah blend with notes of cranberry, pine needles, and all spice.”

My Review: It’s got a great nose – “It smells up my alley,” proclaimed a Wine Pod member. This is truly my kind of wine. The Syrah hits mid palate with white pepper notes. A touch tart on the finish like a cherry Jolly Rancher. Right now, the grape varietals are tasting somewhat separately. September 2023

(Inky in the glass.  Mocha, plum, dark berries and vanilla on the nose.  Palate of sharp berries and spearmint with vanilla and anise on the finish.  This wine is very young for all this big fruit – recommend cellaring for a year or so – if you can resist!  One of our favorite Corral wines. September 2022)

2020 Corral Cabernet Sauvignon, Adelaida District, Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, 14.5% ABV, $82 (#1209)

Winery Notes: “Aromas of black cherry, currant, and cedar. Hints of violet and blackberry. Aged in 50%  new French oak.”

My Review: Deep garnet in the glass. Perfume on the nose. Very deep fruit and spice on the palate. This is going to be a great wine. April 2023 and September 2023

2019 Corral Petite Sirah, Aleksander Vineyard, Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County, 14.5% ABV, $72 (#844)

Winery Notes: “Ripe black fruit: blackberries, blueberries tobacco, black pepper, and toasted baking spices. Rich in flavor, full bodied with a long finish. Aged in 100% Oak barrels, 50% new oak, 25% French, 25% American oak.”

My Review: Our last wine – and skimpy notes. Magenta in the glass, barnyard on the nose. We always like this wine. September 2023

(Beautiful dark ruby in the glass.  Smoke and alcohol on the nose – not a ton of fruit.  Palate is smooth and rich with dark berry flavors and yummy.  This is my favorite current Corral wine – we keep buying more because we keep opening it at home! September 2022)

THE TASTING ROOM

“Come say “Hello” at our Tasting Room in Carmel Valley Village” located at19 East Carmel Valley Rd. Suite C, Carmel Valley.  Sunday – Thursday 12-5 p.m., Friday – Saturday 12-6 p.m.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Comanche Cellars: A Story About a Man, His Horse, and Good Wine!

THE STORY

I have been curious about Comanche Cellars for years, with their interesting name and trendy, downtown Monterey tasting room. I first had the chance to try one of their wines when a neighbor and I stopped into A Taste of Monterey last March. I previously brought you the 2020 Comanche Cellars Tempranillo here: Spur of the Moment Wine Experience at A Taste of Monterey. My slightly updated tasting notes say, “Almost garnet in color. Blueberry and chocolate on the nose. Spicy mouthful of berries and dark cherry. Lively palate. Updated October 2023.”

We needed a place for the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society (AWS) to hold its October First Friday WinedUP event and Comanche Cellars was gracious enough to host us.  My husband and I stopped by in late September to do a little pre-taste and make sure they were ready for us. SOme of my notes are from that tasting and the rest are from the AWS event.

The Comanche Tasting Room, located at ​412 Alvarado Street, was such a fun venue for our AWS Chapter.  Our group likes to explore different wineries and this setting was spacious enough and decorated in such a cute way, leaning into the “Dog & Pony” theme. And they allowed us to go “off menu” and try some of their bigger reds.  We were very happy for our experience and many of us went hope with bottles of their wines.

We were so fortunate that vintner/owner Michael Simons came to meet our group and shared that he had struggled to come up with a name for the winery.  His kids were the ones who came up with Comanche, the name of his beloved childhood horse.  In addition to Michael, we’d like to thank in particular Christina who helped us secure the date, and Gabriel and Bree who helped us go “off-menu” and were so knowledgeable about the wines.  We didn’t get to try their cheese and charcuterie boards, so will have to go back another time. Michael said the winery had a great time getting to know our group and might have had even more fun than we had!

ABOUT COMANCHE CELLARS (from their website)

“My name is Michael Simons, and what started as a love affair with wine has turned into a passion for producing small lots of very handcrafted wines from neighboring vineyards.  Our tiny (1,800 cases) winery is named after Comanche, my horse when I was ten years old. He was an important part of a young life, and I use his name as a loving tribute to this old friend. These days, I ride a bicycle, and since this love affair with wine turned into a full-blown obsession, finding time for riding anything can be tough. But I still think of Comanche often, and am proud that his name and shoes are on every bottle of my wine. Maybe those horseshoes will bring you some good luck!

“Comanche Cellars is on California’s Monterey Peninsula, where we take advantage of the incredible wealth of vineyards that can be found in almost every direction. All throughout the Santa Lucia Highlands, Arroyo Seco, San Antonio Valley and Santa Cruz Mountains AVA’s, there are winegrowers and winemakers producing incredibly beautiful wines that, we think, can and will rival the best the world has to offer. We’re happy to be in the sweet spot right now, as Wine Enthusiast recently named Monterey as one of the Top 5 winegrowing regions worldwide!

“Saddle up, come along for the ride, and see for yourself what all the buzz is about. Just give us a call or drop us an email.”

THE WINES

I have 10 wines to present to you today from Comanche Cellars. Winery notes come from their website, bottles or the tasting room, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2022 Comanche Cellars Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc (Pet Nat), Dorcich Family Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley AVA, Santa Clara County, 11.5% ABV, $30 (#1156)

There is a story about this wine.  It was supposed to be a still Sauvignon Blanc, but the sugar and the yeast got out of control and secondary fermentation occurred. It is a happy outcome and a very fun wine.  They took their Sauvignon Blanc bottle and slapped a Pet Nat (Pétillant Natural) sticker on it! This is new on their tasting menu! I hope you get to try it!

Winery Notes: “N/A.”

My Review: Pale sparkly in the glass. White peach and honeydew on the nose. Crisp on the palate finishing with subtle notes of grapefruit and a touch of yeast on the finish. September 2023

2022 Comanche Cellars French Oak Chardonnay, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.4% ABV, $30 (#1157)

Winery Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves. 

My Review:  Touch of oak. Butter and vanilla on the nose. Like caramel popcorn. Vanilla and butter carry over to the palate. Lots of oak. It’s a big Chardonnay with lime twist on the finish. September 2023

2021 Comanche Cellars Rosé of Pinot Noir, Gimelli Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 14.85% ABV, $30 (#1158)

Winery Notes: “This beautifully-hued rosé will quickly impress you with the aromas of candied apple leading to flavors of maraschino cherry and passionfruit. The crisp, pleasing acidity makes you want to savor each and every sip while it transports you to a French sidewalk café in the summertime.”

My Review: Very pink, intensely almost orange. Watermelon and maraschino cherry on the nose. Light palate of strawberry, like a Pinot Noir – with a fruitier twist. Not exactly fruit forward to us. I preferred this rosé to the 2022 vintage. September 2023.

2022 Comanche Cellars Rosé of Pinot Noir, Gimelli Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, (#1159)

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review: Rich pink in the glass – dustier pink than the other one. Spice on the nose. Tart and spicey on the palate. Like Asian spice – perhaps jalapeños on melon – in a good way. September 2023.

2020 Comanche Cellars Dog & Pony La Niña, Central Coast, 12.9% ABV  (#1160) 65% Tempranillo, 35% Grenache

Winery Notes: “This intriguing duet of Tempranillo and Grenache brings flavors of spiced fruit compote

wrapped in a tapestry of soft tannins and juicy acidity to create a beautifully balanced, easy to enjoy wine.”

My Review: Dark purple. Deep plum and blackberry on the nose. Smoke front palate. Nice smooth palate with a smooth, tannic finish.  During our pre-tasting, this was my favorite wine. September 2023.

2021 Comanche Cellars Sagrantino, Calleri Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 11.7% ABV (#1161)

I had never heard of Sagrantino until this day – then saw it in an Umbrian Montefalco Rosse just a few days later – lots to learn about it! The tasting room told us that 3,000 acres of Sagrantino grapes are planted locally!

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review: Translucent garnet in glass. Vegetal notes with candied cherry and nutmeg on the nose. Asparagus. The nose to me is reminscent of the vegetal I get from Petit Verdot. Mouth-filling, candied cherry fruits and sour cherry finish. Wow! This is such an interesting wine. September 2023

2020 Comanche Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Tres Pinos Creek, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 12.4% ABV (#1162)

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review:  Dark in the glass. Dark fruit, almost stewed prune, on the nose. Light on the palate. The nose over promises the palate. September 2023

2018 Comanche Cellars Merlot, Medeiros Family Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley AVA, Santa Clara County, 14.3% ABV, $34 (#1165)

Winery Notes: “Delicious rich berry cola on both the nose and palate layered with smooth blackberry jam. These beautiful flavors are complemented by notes of leather, cedar and licorice.”

My Review:  Plum and blueberry on the nose. Add some cranberry to those and you have a nice wine! Some anise on the finish. October 2023

NV Comanche Cellars Dog & Pony Tre Zingari, Central Coast AVA, 14.2% ABV, $30 (#1166) 40% Barbera, 40% Merlot, 20% Carignane

Winery Notes: “This Old World bellezza tells the tale of three timeless gypsies; the cinnamon red

cherry pie and rose petals of Italy’s Barbera, the dark blueberry-cherry-sage of France’s Merlot and the clove tinged onion jam of Spain’s Carignane. Let fly the Romani wanderlust, if for only a short while.”

My Review Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: These are Erin’s notes: “Deep ruby with pronounced aromatics.  Jammy black fruit, dark cherry and plum, with some orange peel.  This wine has an earthy quality with black licorice and a little rose petal.  Alcohol and grippy tannins on the palate, with a delightful finish of violet and black fruit.  Good depth.”  My favorite wine of the day. October 2023

2019 Comanche Cellars Petite Sirah, Pierce Ranch Vineyard, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $38        (#1167)

Winery Notes: “Petite Sirah has deep rich flavors and velvety tannins. New to our portfolio, this

single varietal wine is big, bold and full bodied with aromas of dark fruit, vanilla and bayleaf. It truly is a unique grape, just don’t confuse it with Syrah!”

My Review Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos:  Inky purple in color.  Rich, crunchy black and blue fruits, with violet and licorice laced with alcohol on the lovely nose. Add all those flavors and a touch of prune on the palate.  A good steak wine. I took one home for an upcoming class. October 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

“Join us in downtown Monterey for tasting flights, wines by the glass and our famous cheese & charcuterie boards!”

The Comanche Cellars tasting room is located at 412 Alvarado Street in downtown Monterey. ​831-747-2244.  Their hours (according to their website) are Tues-Thurs 4-8 pm, Fri 3-9 pm, Sat 1-9 pm, and ​Sun 1-6 pm. It is a popular venue and no reservations are required!

They also have fun and/or educational events such as vertical tastings and Wednesday night bingo! Check their home page for more information!

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Massa Estate – the Legacy of the Durney Vineyards Continue!

THE STORY

This past July, half of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod ventured out to Massa Estate for a tasting. We were impressed how many wines on their tasting menu came from the historic Durney Vineyards! I had not been there for a tasting since they first opened as Massa.  This day’s “work” was long overdue! This is the first time I have presented their wines in Decanting Monterey!

As you come into Carmel Valley Village from Highway One, Massa is the first wine tasting room on your left.  It has a beautiful blue peacock sign out front and a lovely outdoor garden on the side, perfect for an event or weekend brunch. Its winery out in Cachagua sits on some of the most celebrated and legendary grapes in Monterey County’s history – the Durney Vineyards. When I teach a class about Monterey wines, I tell the story of Durney becoming Heller Estate becoming Massa Estate.  Durney’s Cabernet Sauvignon was among the best produced in the region – and many of today’s Massa Estate wines are made from those very same legendary vineyards! I like to talk about the Durney legacy in my wine classes.  Participants ask me if this is important – and I say “Yes!”

ABOUT MASSA ESTATE ORGANIC VINEYARDS

“Overlooking the Cachagua region of Carmel Valley, (“Cachagua” is believed to be an Indian derivative of the French “cacher” and the Spanish “agua” – “hidden waters”), and framed by the dramatic surrounding hills, lie the beautiful vineyards of Massa Estate, formerly Heller Estate and Durney Vineyards. The vineyards are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, Petite Sirah, Malbec and Petit Verdot at an altitude of 1200 – 1500 feet.

“The vineyards are essentially dry-farmed. The roots of the vines descend deep in the loamy, sandy soil in search of the underground “Cachagua” springs. These stressed vines produce outstanding luscious fruit, which are then skillfully crafted into the extraordinary wines. The Cabernets have been described by wine reviewers as “super-rich, with lots of tannin and explosively long finishes”. In addition, the great variation in daily temperatures at the vineyard (which are sometimes 40 degrees in a twenty four hour period) helps to produce these exceptional age-worthy and full-bodied wines.

“The vineyards have been certified 100% organic since 1980s. Neither herbicides nor pesticides are used in the production of the grapes. This certification was granted after three vintages of clean farming although organic practices have been in place since the original plantings by the Durney’s in 1968. The winery itself was certified organic in 2012.

“In 1982 the Carmel Valley Appellation was approved by the Federal Bureau of Alcohol and Tobacco. Heller Estate was a pioneer in developing the viticulture in the area.

“Sculpture gardens have been added to the vineyard property and at the tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. The sculptures were created by Toby Heller; an internationally known sculptor of large works. Her piece “The Dancers”, a fifteen-foot high, bronze sculpture overlooking the vineyards, inspired the Heller Estate motto “Dances on Your Palate” as well as the design for the labels.”

THE WINES

I have 10 wines to present to you today from Massa Estate. Winery notes come from their website, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone. In general, I found their wines a tad tart for my preferences.  Some, I believe, could be held, to show more down the road. 

2019 Massa Estate Private Reserve Riesling, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County $29 (#1146)

Winery Notes: “The 2019 Massa Estate Riesling offers jasmine blossom, ripe pineapple, and warm golden delicious apples. The palate gives quince flavors, ample acidity with light lemon curd underneath. It finishes with long lasting acidity and warm spices into lemon cream.”

My Review: Pretty, light golden in color. Apple and honeysuckle on the nose. Lemon curd, grapefruit and pineapple on the palate. A little acidic – I would like it creamier.  Overall, pretty good! July 2023

2018 Massa Estate Private Reserve Chardonnay, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $39 (#1147)

Winery Notes: “The 2018 Chardonnay Reserve suggests bosc pears, nectarine blossom, lightly toasted oak, a hint of creme brulee, a kiss of salty sea air, and beeswax. The palate shows golden delicious apples and light caramelized sugar. It has medium high acidity, a long lingering finish; savory with sweet French oak and candied lemon peel.” 

My Review:  Pale golden in color. Butter, vanilla and caramel on the nose. Strong flavors on the palate with a finish of sea salt and lemon peel. July 2023

2019 Massa Estate Rose Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $25 (#1148)       

Winery Notes: “Blueberry cobbler, California dry hill coastal shrubs, sun on a granitic slide.  Juniper berries, fresh cranberry, and sandalwood on the palate. Lignified stems, dried fruit and lavender finish.”

My Review: Very pale pink in the glass. Slight whiff of barnyard on the nose, followed by the bitterness of Pinot Noir and musty notes on the finish. July 2023

2018 Massa Estate Private Reserve Merlot, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $55 (#1149)

Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Merlot suggests red plums, bing cherries, allspice, white pepper, and cigar box. The palate is fresh red fleshed apples with a touch of quince. This is really fresh for a merlot. The finish is with white pepper and Chinese five spice. It is light in its feet but structured in a way to support long term aging.”

My Review: Ruby in the glass. Dusty leather, cherry and white pepper on the nose. Dry on the palate with a tart cherry finish. July 2023

2018 Massa Estate Cachagua Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $39 (#1150)

Winery Notes: “The 2018 Cachagua Cabernet Sauvignon offers cassis and blackberry to greet the palate while some slightly earthy and juicy characteristics mingle beautifully with the dry, dusty tannin structure. Pair this wine with a juicy hamburger topped with sauteed mushrooms and some nice aged cheddar cheese.”

My Review: “Deep ruby in color. Dark berry jam and tarragon on the nose. Cotton candy, burnt sugar, slightly tart berries and a lot of new oak on the palate. Still too young – hold this wine! July 2023.”

2018 Massa Estate Private Reserve Petit Verdot, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $55 (#1151) 

Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Petit Verdot offers delicate flavors of spiced plums, rich earth, beautiful dark chocolate, and dried persimmon with a finish of dried cherries and chocolate or cocoa.”

My Review: Rich dark ruby, red plum on the glass. Warm brown sugar and hints of cherry on the nice nose. Spearmint and bay leaf overlay the dark berry palate. We were intrigued by this wine – one of my favorites of the day. July 2023

2018 Massa Estate Dancer’s Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $40 (#1152)

Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Dancer’s Bordeaux offers delicate flavors of black plums, cherry compote, cigar wrapper, sweet tobacco leaves, bay laurel, black cherry and toasted coconut. It has medium acidity and finishes with quiet, robust tannins with hints of licorice and sasparilla.”

My Review:  Deep ruby in color with a classic fruity nose. Rounder flavors up front, followed by a mouthwatering burst of fruit and a licorice finish.  I liked this wine and took some home! July 2023

2018 Massa Estate Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $65 (#1153)

Winery Notes: “Made from 50 year old vines planted by Bill Durney, the Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon offers delicate flavors of plums, salt water, toasted seaweed, sandalwood, and chaparral flowers! The palate is pure fruit, red cherries and French plums, with hints of baking spices and a touch of cinnamon stick underneath. It finishes with the classic mountain cabernet tannins, our lightest, freshest cabernet sauvignon.”

My Review:  Garnet in color, with an interesting nose.  My notes say floral, soapy, and fruit compote. a cherry bomb on the palate – like a cherry Jolly Rancher. Fruity and not very Cabernet Sauvignon-like.  I wanted more from this wine made from some of the most legendary grapes in all of Monterey County.  Still too young? July 2023

2017 Massa Estate Syrah, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $55 (#1154)

Winery Notes: “The 2017 Syrah offers hints of blackberry, French plums, white pepper, and floral violet notes. This is a darker, more full-bodied wine that is greeted with a punch of flavor that tapers off and then has a spicy peppery note in the aftertaste.”

My Review:  Pretty garnet in the glass. Raisiny on the nose – almost port-like. The nose follows to the palate, yet very jammy. Reminiscent of a Syrah we recently tasted in Paso Robles, which we liked very much. I’d like to try this one again! July 2023

2019 Massa Estate Cabernet Franc, Durney Vineyards, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $68 (#1155)

Winery Notes: “The 2018 Massa Estate Cabernet Franc offers cypress fronds, plum skin, water over rocks, sandalwood, and forest floor. Robust tannins on finish, mouthcoating really wants rich foods.”

My Review:  Light ruby in color. Barnyard on the nose, followed by a light palate of bright fruits. This is another one I would like to try again. July 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

“The Tasting Room, located in Carmel Valley Village, is a 20 minute drive from Carmel, California and offers the public the opportunity to taste the entire range of impressive award winning Massa Estate & Heller Estate wines. There is a selection of wine accessories and wine related gifts as well as an art gallery.”

69 W. Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel Valley, CA 93924 Phone: 831.659.6220

Tasting Room Hours: Saturday – Sunday, 11:00am – 5:00pm “Enjoy our pet-friendly Sculpture Garden!”  Current tasting menus are $15 (Classic) and $20 (Premium).

In addition to wine tasting, there are food options at the Massa Tasting Room! Local chef Michael Jones is on site preparing food!  Food Hours are Saturdays: 11:00 am – 2:00 pm (appetizers) and Sundays: 10:00 am – 2:00 pm (brunch).  His phone number for reservations is 831-659-5100. Please be sure to call to check his schedule and make a reservation!

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© Decanting Monterey 2023

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The Big Party Continues for Arroyo Seco Winegrowers!

THE STORY

Last week I brought you Part 1 of my coverage of the August 12th Arroyo Seco Winegrowers celebration here: Let’s Have a Big Party to Celebrate Arroyo Seco Winegrowers. Please take a look at that write-up for more information about the Arroyo Seco AVA and the event. Today’s post brings you the rest of the wineries and their wines: Martin Ranch Winery, Chesebro, Bernardus, Blair, J Lohr and Joyce Wine Co.  I am grateful to have been able to attend this festive occasion, surrounded by the vineyards we were there to celebrate.

THE WINES

As I indicated last week, despite the small nature of the event, there are always more wines than we can possibly taste and my own note taking was minimal.  I am relying on the wineries’ websites for their notes, unless otherwise stated.  Any errors are mine and mine alone.

MARTIN RANCH WINERY

This was the first time I had encountered Martin Ranch Winery at one of our local wine events – and I was glad I did. Looking at the range of wines they make, I see a road trip to their Gilroy winery and tasting room in my future!

From their website: “For nearly three decades, winemakers Thérèse and Dan Martin have crafted wines in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The rich history of this husband and wife team is reflected in each bottle of wine, and everything they do…

“In 1993, Thérèse and Dan Martin began planting rows of Cabernet Sauvignon along their 17 acre property, with the intent of selling their fruit to local wineries. Four years later, Thérèse and Dan got the itch to give winemaking a go, and by 2002 they released their first commercial crush of 625 cases.

“That same year, the Martins decided it was time to turn their dream of building a community around a winery into a reality. They embarked on the monumental task of building a commercial winery, including a garden area, pond dock, tasting rooms, barrel room, and production facilities.

“Today our vineyard has rows of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Nebbiolo, and Pinot Noir, in addition to the original Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Each year we produce wine under our three award-winning labels: J.D. Hurley, Soulmate, and Thérèse Vineyards.”

2020 Martin Ranch Thérèse Vineyards Grenache Blanc, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.2% ABV, $35 (#1135)

88 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Soft nectarine, peach and toasted-oak aromas are cut by Meyer lemon on the nose of this bottling. Ripe apricot and pineapple flavors show on the juicy palate, with oak adding spice.” Matt Kettmann, November 2022

My Notes: My only notes were that this was a little sweet – and spicy!

2018 Martin Ranch Thérèse Vineyards Pinot Noir, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.6% ABV, $45 (#1136)

91 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Toasty oak aromas meet with dark-cherry compote on the nose of this bottling. The oak is also strong on the palate, but in pleasant ways, warming up the cherry-compote, anise and clove flavors, as vanilla lingers into the finish.” Matt Kettmann

My Notes: Someone told us we should go back and try this wine right as we were heading out for the day. It was quite good and made in a style I prefer – a richer Pinot Noir. 

CHESEBRO

I’ve been presenting Chesebro Wines in my DC-area wine classes since my very first one, long before we moved here.  I admire Chesebro for their quality and affordability – they are easy to fit into the wine class budgets and are a big hit with the class attendees. I’ve been quoting Mark Chesebro in my presentations for years, yet I had never met the man until this Arroyo Seco celebration! It was great to spend a few minutes with him at long last. Alex Lallos, has been a great supporter of my wine education efforts over the years.

We tasted several new releases at their table, some of which I already covered in this recent post, so I only have one of their wines in this article.

2022 Chesebro Grenache Rosé, Cedar Lane, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $23 (#1137)

Winery Notes: “For lovers of our Grenache rosé, you are in for a real treat. Provençal in style, beautiful light pink in color and bright profile. Aromas of fresh picked strawberry, grapefruit skin and raspberry essence. Perfect for a warm poolside or beach afternoon.”

My Notes: I presented the 2020 vintage of this wine in one of my DC-area classes and I like this new release even better!

BERNARDUS

I most recently wrote about Bernardus in these two posts: Best Winery Tour Ever at Bernardus and Bernardus Rolls Out Red Carpet for Special House Guest! At this event, they were pouring the latest release of their Sauvignon Blanc, which is one of my favorites to put in a class, as well as showcasing a celebration bottle!

2022 Bernardus Sauvignon Blanc, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $28 (#1138)

Winery Notes: “Our 2022 Signature Griva bottling has aromas of lime zest and grapefruit, accented by mineral nuances. The palate exhibits rich, crisp, tropical fruit flavors with notes of guava, lime peel, blue agave and grapefruit, supported by a refreshing acidity.” 90 points – Wine Enthusiast

BLAIR WINES

We rarely catch Jeffrey Blair himself in his Carmel Plaza tasting room anymore, so it was great to see him here. I’ve written about Blair’s award-winning wines before, with my most recent post here:  Blair: It’s All About Delfina’s Vineyard in the Arroyo Seco!I enjoyed trying some of his new releases.

2018 Blair Estate Pinot Gris, Riverbank Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.6% ABV, $35 (#1139)

90 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Hints of orange blossom, kumquat and jasmine show on the nose of this bottling. The palate keeps the wine quite dry, offering wet stone balance to the plumeria and Tuscan melon flavors.” Matt Kettmann

My Review: Sweet Grilled pineapple palate carried over the pineapple with a raw pineapple acidity/bitterness on finish. I liked this wine. August 2023

2018 Blair Estate Chardonnay, Roger Rose Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $40 (#1140)

91 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Hints of butter, toasted Marcona almond, crushed rock and light truffle show on the nose of this single-vineyard expression. Lemon-butter-glazed-toast flavors meet with sea salt and nuts on the palate, where a rocky edge adds complexity.” Matt Kettmann, April 2022

2021 Blair Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.1% ABV, $25 (#1141)

Winery Notes: “…This Blair Rosé of Pinot Noir is a serious “pink” wine. Our goal was an Old World style that would be bright and refreshing. But also one that would be a versatile companion to a wide variety of  foods. The nose and palate is full of ripe strawberry, cherry and watermelon. It finishes crisp and dry. Serve well chilled with a Salade Nicoise or an herbed salmon steak fresh off the grill.” 88 points – Wine Enthusiast  

My Notes: Hey this is good tasting wine! Time to get back to Blair for a full tasting!

J. LOHR

We had the chance at the Monterey Trade event the previous week (see this post) to meet  J. Lohr’s Kristen Barnhisel, their winemaker for white wines. She wrote the winery notes below. While they produce a million cases of wine every year, we won’t see most of these wines from Arroyo Seco in the supermarkets. 30% of their production is Arroyo Seco whites. 70% of their production comes from Paso Robles.  They have tasting rooms in San Jose and Paso Robles. Check out their website for more information.

2022 J. Lohr Pinot Blanc, F&G Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $35 (#1142)

Winery Notes: “The 2022 F&G Vineyard Pinot Blanc displays aromas of yellow rose, apple, and pear. Complex flavors of ripe melon and Meyer lemon emerge, with a creamy texture and a long finish from fermentation and aging in the large vessels.”

My Notes: I liked this wine.

2022 J. Lohr Sauvignon Blanc, F&G Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $25 (#1143)

Winery Notes: “The 2022 F&G Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc presents aromas of honeysuckle, grapefruit, and a hint of fig. Bright flavors of ripe key lime, vanilla, Meyer lemon, and tarragon take center stage, with a rich palate texture and long finish.”

My Notes: I found this wine a bit tart.

J. Lohr Bay Mist White Riesling, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $13 (#1144)

Winery Notes: “Fun and casual. Unoaked and just slightly sweet. My goes-with-anything, toes-in-the-sand wine.”

My Notes: What a pretty bottling for this wine – reflecting the Monterey Bay and the idea this would be a great beach wine. This off-dry Riesling was a tad sweet for my preferences.

JOYCE Wine Co.

We finally make it to our host for the event – Joyce Wine Co.They have a beautiful property in the heart of Arroyo Seco, surrounded by vineyards.  Way too many wines to taste for the end of our day, but we did our best. I look forward to going back there to taste again – after the fall winemaking season calms down. We have been to their tasting room in Carmel Valley Village several times.  I last wrote them up here: Joyce: Exploring the Endless Potential of Monterey’s Coastal Terroir.

2022 Joyce Sauvignon Blanc, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $28 (#1145)

Winery Notes: “Vibrant and pronounced, a nose of peach and gooseberry open up to a palate of citrus and spring time earthiness.”

2022 Joyce Rosé, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $25 (#1146)

Winery Notes: “A savory-leaning nose of tomato water and oyster shell sets the tone for a lightly-fruited, pale pink thirst quencher with minerality that will make you drool.”

My Notes: Perfume on the nose and a tartness on the palate.

2022 Joyce Albariño, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $28 (#1147)

Winery Notes: “Warm-weather, tropical fruits lead the nose followed by white flowers on an ocean breeze. Bright and refreshing, supple texture and minerality on the palate.”

2021 Joyce GSM, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $35 (#1148) 30% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 30% Mourvèdre

Winery Notes: “This Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre blend yields concentrated flavor, high acidity and strong tannins–all elements that suggest this wine can be cellared for many years.”

My Notes: I detected some of that “Central Coast funk” on the nose – that funky aroma or flavor I often get with Central Coast Syrahs. The plate was spicy and quite tasty! August 2023

2021 Joyce Syrah, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $30 (#1149)

Winery Notes: “A classic representation of the varietal with noticeable, dusty tannin, dark fruits and earthy, smoky, woody notes hitting throughout.”

The fruit comes from Joyce vineyards, plus Zabala plus Cedar Lane – sounds like a winning combo!

My Notes: Dark ruby in glass. Grass on the nose. Relatively light on palate. August 2023

THE TASTING ROOMS

Because there were so many wineries present at this event, I recommend checking their individual websites for information on where and when to taste their wines. You can taste Martin Ranch wines at their winery in Gilroy. Chesebro, Bernardus and Joyce tasting rooms are all located in Carmel Valley Village.  Blair’s is in Carmel-by-the-Sea.  J Lohr has two tasting locations:  San Jose and Paso Robles.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Let’s Have a Big Party to Celebrate Arroyo Seco Winegrowers!   

THE STORY

On August 12th, the Arroyo Seco Winegrowers celebrated their 40th Anniversary at the Joyce Winery in Soledad. This was mostly the vineyard owners and the wineries celebrating their great partnership in making terrific wines, putting the Arroyo Seco AVA on the map. I asked my friends at Chesebro Wines if they could get us in – thank you, Alex Lallos! This post is Part 1 – be sure to read next week’s post for Part 2!

For us coastal dwellers, it was a pretty long drive to get down to Soledad, but well worth it!  It was a beautiful, warm day.  The event was relatively small, with about 20 wineries offering tastes along with gourmet appetizers by Michael Jones and others. We had to be very careful with our tastes due to the drive home.  We stuck to our practice of sharing tastes and dumping the rest. 

The setting was a wine lover’s dream.  Joyce has a beautiful facility nestled in the heart of the Arroyo Seco AVA, surrounded by vineyards.  The event took place inside its barrel room, keeping us cool from the sun and heat outside.  It was a casual, low-key event with happy vintners and farmers celebrating what they together have created.  During the event, I met some wineries I had never heard of like Scott Family Estate, OCNAUTIC and Martin Ranch Winery, and got to talk to vineyard growers like Luis Zabala and vintners including Mark Chesebro (finally!)! I am looking forward to visiting Zabala Vineyards sometime after harvest, when things calm way back down.

ABOUT THE ARROYO SECO AVA

The Arroyo Seco AVA was established in 1983.  That was fairly early in Monterey County’s AVA development.  (Read about all of Monterey County’s AVA’s on the Monterey Vintners & Growers Association website.) We became fans of the Arroyo Seco AVA many years ago through the wines of Chesebro and Mercy, the latter, sadly, no longer in operation.  Now, when I see a winery offering wines from Arroyo Seco, I jump at the opportunity to try them – from delicate and flavorful whites from vineyards including Cedar Lane, Griva and Zabala to the big reds found at Shale Canyon.

A wine I really miss from the region is Mercy’s Syrah from Zabala Vineyards.  I have yet to figure out who is making Syrah out of those grapes today (in addition to Luis Zabala himself!) 

The Arroyo Seco Winegrowers carries this description of the AVA:

“The Arroyo Seco AVA encompasses portions of two towns; Soledad and Greenfield in California’s Monterey County. In the rural, western extremes of these townships the Santa Lucia Mountains rise dramatically, creating the western boundary of the Salinas Valley, and provide the unique setting for one of California’s earliest recognized viticultural area. It is in this landscape that a transverse waterway from the mountains carved the distinct geography and geology, and ultimately converges with the maritime influences of the deep, cold waters of the Pacific Ocean found 40 miles north at Monterey Bay. Ultimately, the confluences of so many distinct geographic factors unite to form this small, finite growing region.

“Granted federal AVA status on April 15, 1983, the Arroyo Seco appellation is steeped in winegrowing history and rooted in the geographic features of a waterway named “Arroyo Seco”. This seasonal creek brings rain water and snowmelt from the Santa Lucia Mountains and the Los Padres National Forrest to the Salinas Valley. Over the millenniums the pressure of this natural water-release created a diverse geography; carving landscape, dumping rocks and filling a deep subteranian aquifer with clean, pure water. Ultimately, the esteemed authors of the appellation cited the unique terrain formed by the Arroyo Seco as the foundation of AVA’s boundaries. Within the AVA’s boundaries the first commercial vineyard, Mission Ranch, was propogated by the Mirassou family in 1961, over two decades before the region received its AVA status.

“Consisting of 18,240 acres the Arroyo Seco AVA is one of the smallest AVAs in California (by contrast the largest California AVA is 3,008,000 acres, while other coastal appellations dwarf the Arroyo Seco AVA; the Santa Cruz Mountains is 408,000 acres, the Russian River Valley is 96,000 acres, the Santa Maria Valley is over 80,000 acres, the Sta Rita Hills AVA is 30,720 acres, and the Santa Lucia Highlands is 22,000 acres). It is a finite piece of terrain that has always been considered, by virtue of the definition of an AVA, one of most the “distinguished” places to grow grapes in Califorina. In fact, of the over 100 California AVAs the Arroyo Seco was one of the earliest to be recognized – the 15th AVA (tied for no. 15 with two other AVAs) to be granted such distinction.”

I like to use the description of the AVA from Mercy’s former website in my classes:

“Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco AVA is many things: windblown, numbingly cold, fog laden, semi-arid, rock strewn, austerely beautiful. In essence, the perfect grape source for Mercy wines…the wines are sourced from three contiguous vineyards, all located in a specific part of the appellation – The Ancient River Channel…Found along the banks of a now seasonal creek, this unique riverbed corridor features ideal maritime climate with rocky, meager surface soil and hardpan just feet below ground. Low yields, unique soil attributes and meticulous farming combine to produce flavorful and distinct grapes. Grown in such a dramatic setting, the wines truly are at the Mercy of Mother Nature.”

THE WINES

Today I am presenting wines we tasted at that event from four wineries:  Scott Family Estate, OCNAUTIC, Muirwood, and Luli Wines.  I’ll write up the rest of the wineries next week.  Despite the small nature of the event, there are always more wines than we can possibly taste and my own note taking was minimal.  I am relying on the wineries’ websites for their notes, unless otherwise stated.  Any errors are mine and mine alone.

SCOTT FAMILY ESTATE

“The gems of Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco”

Scott Family Estate is part of the Rutherford Wine Company focused on Arroyo Seco wines.  It produces high volumes of wine (on Monterey standards) and distributed nationally. This was the first time I had seen Scott Family Estate wines at our local wine events. I’m always excited to “discover” wineries right in our own backyard. According to its webpage:

“Witness the exquisite harmony achieved through the meticulous fusion of cool-climate varietals and the pristine terroir they call home. This union is a symphony orchestrated by the interplay of specific soil compositions, judicious clonal choices, elevated vineyard sites, and the microclimate’s gentle caress.

“The outcome is a tapestry of flavors that pay homage to their origins. Our Burgundian style Chardonnays and Pinot Noir showcase this enchanting connection, inviting you to savor the fruit of unparalleled quality, each sips an eloquent ode to its unique growing enclave.”

2021 Scott Family Estate Chardonnay, Dijon Clone, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $36 (#1129)

Winery Notes: “The 2021 harvest in Monterey County was condensed following a long, cool growing season. The extended cool conditions and lack of hot summer days resulted in high acids and low sugars. The season’s long hang times resulted in refined development, as well as wines with great depth and exceptionally concentrated fruit flavors and density.”

My Notes: My only note was that I liked this Chardonnay. Well balanced and tasty.

2021 Scott Family Estate Pinot Noir, Dijon Clone, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $45 (#1130)

Winery Notes: “A soft and decadent 100% Pinot Noir with aromas and flavors of cherry, sage, ripe raspberries and earthy notes. Richly textured and medium-bodied with balanced acidity creating a smooth, lingering finish. Enjoy this elegant Pinot Noir now or save for up to seven years.”

My Notes: My only note on this wine was that it was typical for the region.

OCNAUTIC:

“Embark on Your Next Wine Adventure with Ocnautic”

OCNAUTIC is part of the ASV family of wines with vineyards in Arroyo Seco and Paso Robles. Muirwood is also part of this group.  OCNAUTIC is located in Paso Robles and focus on Paso Robles and Monterey wines.

From their website: “If you believe the legend, a three-masted schooner named the Ocnautic sailed the seas in the early 1800s. It was renowned for many wonderous voyages and inspired many to take to the seas in the spirit of discovery.

“Thus, we named our adventurous, boldly styled wines from the California Central Coast OCNAUTIC. Great wine takes you on an enchanting journey of discovery. We invite you to join us.”

2022 OCNAUTIC Grenache Blanc, Wiley Vineyard, Monterey County (#1131)

Winery Notes from ASVwines.com: “Soft aromas of white flower, honeysuckle, and citrus peel are followed by flavors of rich pineapple, stone fruit, and refreshing acidity on the finish.” 96% Grenache Blanc, 4% Viognier.

My Notes: This wine has a very cool, octagonal and nautical label.  I detected some grass on the nose and otherwise have no tasting notes.

MUIRWOOD

“WINES CRAFTED WITH CARE FROM MONTEREY COUNTY’S RENOWNED ARROYO SECO VINEYARDS”

I have presented a Muirwood wine before from a tasting I did at A Taste of Monterey in Cannery Row. Muirwood is located in the Greenfield area. I found this description on their website:

“Our approach is grounded in the belief that the best wines come from the best grapes. This translates into attention to detail at every step of the grape growing and winemaking process; from the inspection of soil profiles and climate conditions, to determining which root stocks and clonal varieties are best suited to the growing site, to the selection and blending of individual lots.”

2022 Muirwood Unoaked Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1132)

Winery Notes: “Citrus bouquet, mango and guava on palate, elegant and complex.”

My Notes: This Chardonnay was quite heavy, rich and flavorful on the palate. August 2023

2021 Muirwood Cabernet Sauvignon Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1133)

Winery Notes: “Black currant and cassis, toasty notes, complex finish.”

 My Notes: Very dark ruby. Oak on the nose, followed by a nice palate of dark fruit. August 2023

LULI WINES

I first wrote about Luli Wines here. A snippet from their website tells their story:

“Wine offers expression of people-in-relation rather than selves apart. Luli, the result of a partnership between a master sommelier, a distinguished vineyard manager and an expert winemaker, provides a particularly happy example of the way in which wine creates community, because Luli is itself a collective enterprise. Sommelier, grape-grower, and winemaker, we three approach wine from different angles, but work synergistically to craft exceptional hand-crafted vintages at comfortable prices. We thrive together—and have fun doing so. And why not? The pleasure of wine supplies us with a way to enjoy life. So open a bottle, pour the swirling liquid into a glass, and celebrate, as we do, the bonds between family and friends…” This is a joint effort by sommelier Sara Floyd and Mark and Jeff Pisoni.

2022 Luli Sauvignon Blanc, Griva Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $24 (#1134)

Winery Notes: “Fresh, vibrant, and lifted in all regards, the 2022 Luli Sauvignon Blanc packs a youthful punch from start to finish. A pale straw hue intermixes with tinges of green as this wine shimmers in the glass. Notes of lime zest, lemongrass, and juicy grapefruit are more pronounced, as wet stone and a hint of fresh herbs offer unexpected complexity. While the palate may first show the crisp acidity, citrus driven flavors soon dominate before giving way to additional layers of volume and texture earned with three months of aging on the lees in all neutral French oak barrels. This delicious Sauvignon Blanc is best enjoyed cold, young, and often.

My Notes: Grassy, crisp, and tasty.

THE TASTING ROOMS

To my knowledge, Scott Family Estate, OCNAUTIC, Muirwood, and Luli Wines do not have tasting rooms. You can taste Muirwood wines at A Taste of Monterey. Check their websites for more information.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Folktale: a tradition that changes over time!

by Central Coast Sharon and Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos!

THE STORY

We met David Baird of Folktale Winery at the 30th Anniversary Monterey Winemakers Celebration in Carmel-by-the-Sea this past June.  He offered us, my friend Erin O’Reilly and me a tour of the winery and a tasting. We could not manage to schedule our visits for the same date, so we visited him separately.  Erin visited him in late June and my partner and I, in early August – during perhaps the busiest wine tasting week of our summer!  Lesson learned:  pace these things out! We each deeply appreciated the private tour and detailed discussions we had about the evolution of Folktale wines and his own path to becoming a winemaker!

Readers: You are getting a real treat today, as this post is co-authored with my friend Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos! My notes today are a combination of what I think I heard from David during our visit 😊, significant input from Erin, and information from the Folktale website.

If you drive out Carmel Valley Road just a few miles from Highway 1, you will see the Folktale entrance on the right. Located on the site of the former Chateau Julien Wine Estate, this winery has a beautiful, spacious setting for all the outdoor events it holds there. In addition to its tasting room, Folktale has 5 acres of vineyards, an estate home, and a 10,000 square foot barrel room. In 2015, winemaker Gregory Ahn purchased it and renamed it Folktale Winery & Vineyards.

When they first opened as Folktale, we noticed right away that it wasn’t going to be a quick taste of wines, but more of an experience – sit down, spend some time with us, enjoy our wine garden. What a great destination for weddings or a relaxed wine tasting. With its proximity to Highway 1, the location is a great one for locals and tourists alike.

The pandemic hit them hard with the mandated shutdowns, but they found a creative way to come out of it, creating a popular outdoor dining experience in their wine garden, differentiating itself from the typical Monterey tasting room. It has evolved into a sit down, order some food, taste the wines, and listen to music kind of place – and has always been a great wedding venue. Shoot, they even have a Sunday brunch! I have friends who enjoyed being able to go there with their families to enjoy food and wine in the height of the pandemic. 

Folktale prioritizes best vineyard practices and finding more appropriate wines for their growing locations.  Their estate 5-acre vineyard is “100% organically farmed meticulously by hand.” Their 300 acre vineyard in Arroyo Seco is Sustainability In Practice (SIP) Certified®. That vineyard is being replanted over time.  I think David told me 40% of their production comes from and long-term relationships with other vineyards in the area. They like the sandy, rocky, granitic soil, great for grapevines.

Since taking ownership, they have already transformed the barrel room into a full-fledged wine production facility, moving in the tanks and adding a catwalk, a new cooling system, and upgraded electrical for production operations. David shared with us the longer vision to replant the vineyards on the property and turn the estate home into a luxury hotel-type operation. Today they produce about 15,000 cases of wine across 30 different wines, reflecting their diverse portfolio. They have a goal of increasing production 10% per year. 

David was excited for harvest, hoping the nice weather would hold through veraison, harvest and crush, all outdoors activities before the juice is brought inside for fermentation. Due to our cooler spring, harvest was looking a week or two late (as of early August). He said he checks the weather every day – every warm day we get helps us catch up.  He suggested maybe we think it has been colder than it really has – that we coastal dwellers are just “sissies.” 😊Unfortunately, the previous couple of years can’t be used for comparison due to the wildfires of 2020 and the extreme heat of 2021.  And this is predicted to be an El Niño year, another concern for the vineyards. I am hoping the warm August and September temperatures have brought things back in line – before the fall rains come!

Sangiovese

After touring the wine production facility, we walked through the vineyard on the way back to the Tasting Room.  Currently, there is Sangiovese planted on site, but it is too cool of a climate for that. They plan to rip it out and plant something more appropriate, such as Chardonnay – not yet decided. We talked about the new Carmel Coastal AVA which has been proposed.  It would encompass the Folktale property.  It has been taking a long time for it to come up for discussion and decision.

Our mutual assessment:  We are excited and hopeful for Folktale’s potential in the coming years.  They have the perfect venue to showcase everything Monterey can do with wine and it certainly looks like they’re going to embrace the opportunity ahead of them. Their strategic plan is solid and they give David the leeway to lean into his creativity to dare to do something different.

ABOUT THE WINEMAKER

“David Baird is an innovative winemaker with his roots deeply grown in the vineyards of the Central Coast of California. With his winemaking degree from Cal Poly, David has previously made wine at Halter Ranch, Edna Valley, Justin Winery and Fess Parker.

“In 2015, David moved back home to the Monterey peninsula where he began collaborating with Greg and Madigan. Together they opened Folktale Winery & Vineyards in the summer of 2015, with a focus on high quality, delicious wines that embrace organic farming and natural winemaking. A blank slate for Baird, the opportunity to establish an entirely new winemaking strategy for a brand-new winery was a little daunting at first, but ultimately has provided the freedom to be creative. “There is a lot of fear and adventure in creating wines for a new winery. There’s no safety net below you. During our first year at Folktale we played it safe with very practical decisions. Since then, we’ve had a lot of fun creating new small batch wines like a Pet-Nat, whole cluster barrel fermented Syrah, and a Rosé of Grenache Blanc.”

“Folktale is the perfect place to stretch his wings. Having grown to nearly 500 acres of estate vines in Monterey County, the winery offers exceptional opportunities to innovate. “The Central Coast offers such an excellent selection of varietals, but it hasn’t seen much winemaking development over the last 50 years. My goal is to reinvent the wheel a little, refreshing old techniques to come up with new ideas. We want to have some fun while evolving as a winery and as a brand, all the while focusing on fine wines that people will enjoy, and new wines that people may not otherwise try.”

THE WINES

I have 7 wines to present to you today from our overlapping tastings across 3 labels: Folktale,  Le Mistral and Common Thread. Winery notes come from my conversation with David, the Folktale website, or as otherwise indicated.  Any errors are mine and mine alone.

ABOUT LE MISTRAL

We were curious how they got the Le Mistral label, as we knew it as belonging to Joseph Phelps. Here’s the story:  Le Mistral was sold by Phelps to Brosseau and Folktale acquired it from them. Their Joseph’s Blend is in honor of Joseph Phelps!

Le Mistral is a nod to the howling winds that whip down through the Rhône Valley, similar to what we experience in the Salinas Valley with the coastal winds that can tear through vines, prolong the growing season, and concentrate flavors in the berries. We feel this to some extent almost every afternoon in our little coastal town.

ABOUT COMMON THREAD

Common Thread is the winemaker’s own label. The name “Common Thread” comes from a single palmar crease on the hand associated with various conditions, including Down syndrome. The label has the outline of three hands, David’s and his two sons, one of whom has the condition. Sales from this wine go to supporting non-profits. You can the find Common Thread wine label online and in local shops throughout the region. Cheers to that!

2021 Folktale Talking Animals Pétillant-Naturel (Pet-Nat) Sparkling Wine, Mission Ranch Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey, 12.9% ABV, $35 (#1120)

Winemaker’s Notes from The Wine Stop: “Pétillant Natural is a natural sparkling wine using the ancestral method. Bottled just before the primary fermentation finishes, the natural effervescence and sediment are the evidence of things finishing in the bottle. The wine is bright, with notes of green apple, banana cream pie, grapefruit blossom, and undertones of guava and pineapple. The palate is lively and fresh, benefitting from the abundance of bubbles and bright acidity.”

Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Light and sparkly in the glass. Champagne notes on the nose. Soft and creamy on the palate with white peach and nectarine. Everything you’d want in a pét nat. Well balanced with bright acidity. They did disgorge and David shared a few highly entertaining videos that included dry ice and bursting bottles. Craftsmanship at its finest. August 2023

2022 Le Mistral Grenache Barrel Sample, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1121)

Winemaker’s Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves. 

My Review:  We tasted this as a barrel sample. Resembles a light Pinot Noir in the glass – pale ruby.  Light cherry nose. Very balanced with cranberry and sour cherry flavors. Good tannins on the back palate. August 2023

NV Folktale The Lion for Real – an orange wine, 5-Year Solera, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $40 (#1122)            

I didn’t know anything about solera wines, so David gave us a little tutorial on how this one is made.  Again, my notes are a little garbled, so this is how I think he explained it:  You create a pyramid of the barrel racking system and connect them with hoses.  You place your fresh wine in the top barrel, and continue to move it down, one barrel at a time, as you continue to top off the lower barrels. By the time you get to bottling wine from the bottom barrel, you really don’t know the exact blend or vintage of what is in the bottle. David is excited to play with these types of wines. It is these kinds of ventures that prove him to be a creative winemaker.

I found this Wine Spectator article which explains solera winemaking far better than my notes:

“A solera system is a collection of barrels, traditionally stacked (with the bottom row containing the oldest vintage), for the purpose of fractional blending across vintages…It’s a way to create a house style, and to keep a historic thread running through a beverage that is made year after year. I find it helpful to picture a tower of barrels from multiple vintages, with the youngest barrels on the top of the pile and the oldest at the bottom. You start by removing some wine from the oldest barrel on the bottom, but then you replace that missing portion with wine from the next oldest barrel, and that portion is then replaced with the next oldest barrel, and so on down the line so that the missing amount is always replaced by the next-oldest available wine. Because you never entirely empty the barrels, the barrel on the bottom will always have at least a small amount of the oldest vintage.”

Winery Notes: This 5-year Solera is made from Riesling and Viognier wines. 

Wine Enthusiast – 90 points: “A mustard-yellow shade in the glass, this skin-fermented, solera-style orange wine shows ripe melon, fresh tangerine and apple-juice aromas on the nose. The texture is very grippy on the sip, where apple and orange-peel flavors meet with a slight tonic element, proving rather clean.” — Matt Kettmann.

Our Review: Cloudy, creamy and light brown sugar in the glass. Nice bouquet of peach and apricot with a touch of Mandarin orange, with those notes following over to the palate. Fruity.  August 2023

Erin’s addition: This is the wine that caught our attention at the 30th Annual Monterey Winemaker’s Celebration. That we have a local winemaker playing with orange wines and showcasing these bottles at a festival was noteworthy. David’s exploring winemaking beyond the mainstream (even though orange wines are arguably one of the oldest wine styles going back millennia). I was actually surprised that the wine wasn’t as grippy as I was expecting and still had noticeable freshness. No doubt thanks to the multifractional blending and maturation that is a solera system. Anyone who loves orange wine needs to get their hands on a bottle of The Lion for Real.

Kudos to Folktale for supporting David in exploring these exciting styles.

2021 Folktale The Ruler Pinot Noir, Central Coast, 13% ABV, $75 (#1123)

Winemaker’s Notes: “The savory and rich mouthfeel spotlights dark fruit, dried herbs, forest floor, and tobacco leaf notes on wild chalky tannins.”This wine includes grapes from both Monterey and San Benito Counties. The grapes are from Monterey and San Benito Counties: 44% Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 42% Cienega Valley AVA, 14% Chalone AVA. As David said, “Trying to make the best Pinot requires going outside SLH.” 45% whole cluster, 30% new oak.

Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Bright ruby in the glass. Robust for a Pinot Noir, with that bright Monterey cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. Toast, caramel, lavender, a touch of pepper and a hint of sous bois that points to exciting things to come for this wine. Tasty. August 2023

2021 COMMON THREAD 100% Whole Cluster Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 12.0 % ABV, $40 (#1124)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Fermenting wines whole cluster, or not taking the berries off the stem, produces wines that tend to have an elegant savory and dried herb quality that just fermenting grapes on their own can’t produce. It’s in this vein that this Pinot Noir was crafted – from the organically farmed Pelio Vineyard in Carmel Valley…”

Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: “This whole-cluster bottling, which supports Down’s syndrome initiatives to honor the winemaker’s son, offers dark berry jam aromas and a hint of herb on the nose. Firm tannins frame the sip, where plump red currant, lavender and violet flavors lead into a peppery finish.” — Matt Kettmann

Erin’s Review: A pretty red, featuring cherry, strawberry, currant, kirsch, and supple floral flavors. More fluid than dense, this unfolds nicely with soft, ripe tannins and a velvety finish. Despite the ample core fruit, this is a restrained, elegant Monterey Pinot. June 2023

2018 Folktale The Hound Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.7% ABV, $95 (#1032)           

Winemaker’s Notes: “THE HOUND is a classic blend of Bordeaux varietals, combining 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, and 9% Cabernet Franc sourced 89% from Massa Estate Vineyard and 11% from Cedar Lane Vineyard. The not-so-little brother of our Reserve Bordeaux blend, this wine is complex and elegant with aromas and flavors of blueberry, mocha, floral lilac, frisée, dusty vanilla, brown sugar, creme de cassis, pencil lead, cedar wood, and hibiscus.  The texture offers nice richness with round and full tannins. The Hound is a beautiful, bold wine that will benefit from aging.”

Erin’s Review: “Ripe, and well-built, with a racy core of blackberry, black currant, red plum, melted brown sugar, warm baking spice, an inlay of violet, and a touch of graphite. Grippy, generous tannins with a tug on the focused finish. (Let’s see what this tastes like in another 5 years, it’s still showing young, and probably has another 5-10 to go – comfortably. I hope the hold some of this back in their library.)”June 2023 (Central Coast Sharon previously presented this wine on Decanting Monterey here)        

2020 Le Mistral Syrah, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $60 (#1125)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Brosseau Vineyard in the Chalone AVA has a remarkable combination of limestone soils, weather patterns and organic farming that produces intense minerality, texture and richness in its wines.  The Syrah was natively fermented in bins and 500L puncheons, then aged for 11 months in 17% new French oak barriques producing a wine that has rich, dark flavors and can be enjoyed for years to come.” Co-fermented with 4-8% Viognier.

My Review:  Dark ruby in color. Alcohol with a touch of earth, burnt oak and bubble gum on the nose. Nice intense berries and dark plum on the palate. August 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The Folktale Tasting Room (Wine Garden) is located at 8940 Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel, CA 93923. Phone: (831) 293-7500. They are open: Monday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday: 11:30 – 7:30; Sunday: 10:00-4:00. They are closed Tuesday & Wednesday. They also have a Sunday brunch from 10-4 and have recently begun offering tours every Thursday – Monday at 11:30 am, 1:00 pm and 2:30 pm.  You can get more information and make a reservation here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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And Now: The Final Post on the Monterey Wines Trade and Media Event!

THE STORY

As I mentioned in my previous post, I really feel like Decanting Monterey is getting some recognition when I start getting invited to events that are “wine trade only.”  The Monterey Wines Trade and Media Tasting, was held in Carmel in early August, offering an opportunity to talk to vintners and their representatives one-on-one! This is part 3 of my experience there. Please read Part 1 here and Part 2 here for more details. And many thanks again to the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association for the tickets!

Today’s post will cover these local wineries and some of the wines they presented that day: Lepe Cellars, Windy Oaks Estate, Wrath, McIntyre Vineyards, and Galante Vineyards. Because these are the last wineries we visited that day, our tasting notes are skimpy – we focused more on conversations with the winemakers and staff. Winery notes come from their website or conversation with the winemaker, unless otherwise indicated. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

THE WINERIES/WINES

LEPE CELLARS

It was so nice to finally meet Miguel Lepe! He is one of our bright, creative NextGen winemakers – and one to watch!  I’ve tasted his wines several times and was so happy to finally meet him.  I admire the fact he is willing to make the kinds of big reds I like – in our land of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. I previously wrote about Lepe Cellars here: Lepe Cellars: A New Face on the Carmel-by-the-Sea Wine Circuit! I’m also working on a Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society event at his tasting room in Carmel-By-The-Sea in the next few months!

2022 Lepe Cellars Sangiovese Rosé, Merit Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $30 (#1109)

Winery Notes: “This bright, stone fruit focused dry Rosé starts out with a burst of peach and apricot leading into hints of tangerine. Pairs well with seared salmon, lobster and tuna tartare.”

My Review: By now, our tasting notes have been reduced to a few words. This rosé exhibited a mellow nose.  The Sangiovese grapes made this a very tasty version. August 2023

2020 Lepe Cellars Petit Verdot, Merit Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $49 (#1110)

Winery Notes: “Elegant aromas of wild strawberry, savory soy and light licorice show on the nose of this pure varietal. Dark plum and cherries show on the first sip, with a bit of earthy forest floor woven with pepper, oak and tannin creating a velvety, rich texture.”

My Review: Plummy and jammy on the nose. Tobacco and dark fruits on the palate. Very nice. August 2023

WINDY OAK ESTATE

I met Kerry Winslow in the Windy Oaks Tasting Room a few years back.  Extremely knowledgeable and friendly, Kerry is a class act – and he is everywhere.  After years of reading and quoting the wine blog grapelive.com, I finally put two and two together. And he has a great presence on Instagram and LinkedIn – follow him! He had us try a few wines on this day. We were just about at the end of this event, so note taking was practically non-existent. My apologies, Kerry.  I can do better. I previously wrote up Windy Oaks here: Windy Oaks: Les Deux Grands Crus and More Pinot Noir!

2018 Windy Oaks Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, $32(#1111)

Winery Notes: Kerry indicated that this is a particular parcel of the Escolle Vineyard farmed especially for them.

Winemaker notes from wine.com: “Brilliant crisp golden delicious apple, bosc pear, lemon and pineapple fruits unfold on the rich palate along with hints of nutmeg, clove spice, butter rum and golden figs.

“This Chardonnay is sourced exclusively from the Escolle Vineyard near the famous Garys’ Vineyard, which is set on the classic sandy loams with touches of quartz and granite. All barrel fermented and aged in French oak with bâtonnage (stirred lees), it sees malolactic secondary fermentation which adds depth and texture to this lively wine.”

My Review: This is a very delicious, oaky, buttery, and creamy Chardonnay and currently available on their website. August 2023

2021 Windy Oaks Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County (#1112)

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review: You all know I am not the biggest Pinot Noir fan, but I liked this one.  It had a very nice, lean palate with enough complexity to hold my interest. August 2023

2016 Windy Oaks Diane’s Block Estate Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County (#1113)

Winery Notes from wine.com: “Grown on 5-acre block, all estate, slightly warmer site, at a lower elevation, resulting in a bit more fruit forward notes. Exciting density and ultra-smooth ripe/creamy tannins with a stylish nose of wild strawberry/rhubarb and lavender. More subtle in the nose it saves its forward nature for a medium full attack on the lush palate showing fine detail and an array of red fruit flavors, mineral tones and sweet and sour notes, finishing long and spicy. The mouth feel makes an impact with layers of raspberry, black cherry and fresh picked plum along with a hint of French oak and savory spices that add excellent contrast in this serious and structured Pinot.”

My Review: It was a real treat to be able to taste this vintage of the Diane’s Block.  However, I apologize for lack of good tasting notes.Garnet in the glass with a touch of acidity on the finish. 2023

WRATH

We became quick fans of Wrath thanks to their broad portfolio of wines, especially, for me, their Syrahs.  It was through their wines that we began to get to know some of the great vineyards of Monterey County, such as their own San Saba Vineyard, the Tondré Grapefield in the Santa Lucia Highlands, and, more recently, KW Ranch, also in the Santa Lucia Highlands.  Because of their different lines of wines – and if I happen upon a good sale, I can even squeeze their EX (formerly Ex Animus) wines from time to time into one of my East Coast wine classes. And when I needed a Falanghina for my part of a virtual wine class, Wrath had one. You can read about it here: Ancient Roman Winemaking Meets Modern Viticulture!

2020 Wrath Swan/828 Pinot Noir, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $39 (#1114)

Winery Notes: “Dark cherry, raspberries and a touch of earthiness highlight the characteristics of our growing area… This clonal blend uses all estate grown grapes.  It combines dark cherry, raspberries and a touch of earthiness on the nose.  The palate offers a balance of structure and acidity that compliments elegant, focused red berry and cherry cola with a hint of forest floor.  Nimble and pure, it terminates with a long clean finish that is enhanced with a touch of mineral.”

My Review: This wine was interesting to me, as the smokey, earthy nose contrasted with the rich palate of fruit which followed. August 2023

2020 Wrath Pinot Noir, McIntyre Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 14.2% ABV, $49 (#1115)

Winery Notes: “Wines made from master-grower Steve McIntyre’s vineyard often exhibit the telltale characteristics of Santa Lucia Highlands terroir.  Our 2020 McIntyre Vineyard Pinot Noir is no exception.  Comprised of 100 percent 115 clone and made with 20 percent whole-cluster fermentation, it is dense and complex, with pomegranate, a touch of smoke and a mineral element.  Berry flavors of cranberry and pomegranate remain persistent, blending with red currant, more mineral and bright acidity in a structured finish.” 94pts- Wine Enthusiast

“The 2020 Wrath McIntyre Pinot follows instep with previous vintages and displays classic red and black cherry flavors with a distinctive underlying minerality.”

My Review: I tend to like the Pinot Noir wines that come from the McIntyre Vineyard and this one is no exception. This one was quite rich in the palate and delicious. August 2023

MCINTYRE VINEYARD

About two years ago, we happened to be in the Crossroads Shopping Center in Carmel and popped into McIntyre. It was a very quiet afternoon, so we got to taste a wide variety of Pinot Noirs.  That is when McIntyre Vineyards Pinot Noirs got my attention – I tasted some I actually liked!  You can read about that experience here: Impressive Pinot Noirs from Steve McIntyre Bring SLH to Life! Now I seek them out at events like these to validate my first impression! At the trade event this past August, we got to meet Kristen McIntyre and talk a bit about the wines.  Again, apologies.  As our penultimate stop, our notes are skimpy.

2019 McIntyre Family Wines Winemaker Series Don Van Staaveren Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA Monterey County, 14.6% ABV, $50 (#1116)

Winery Notes: “The idea for the Winemaker Series was born out of impatience and age-related urgency! If I’m lucky I’ll get to participate in another 20 to 30 vintages as our vineyards and wines evolve. Collaborating with a diverse set of winemakers and viticulturists provides exciting opportunities to experiment and accelerate our pace of discovery. Each Winemaker brings their own style and experience, just as a great chef or a musician, to the process of producing a life enhancing experience best shared with others” – Steve McIntyre

“Smells of bright, candied cherry fruit. The remarkably pure and crystalline cherry flavours have an aromatic sweetness to them that charms, while excellent acidity keeps the saliva flowing. Boisterous and bright with barely perceptible tannins. This expression of cherry will bring a smile to most drinkers.” (Alder Yarrow) Wine Enthusiast: 94 points

My Review: I tend to like the Pinot Noir fruit and winemaking style from McIntyre.  This one was quite delicious. Classic and elegant. I now have a better appreciation for the Winemaker Series of their wines and will stop by to taste some more. August 2023

2018 McIntyre Merlot, Kimberly Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $30 (#1117)

Winery Notes: “Our 2018 Kimberly Vineyard is the epitome of Goldilocks-climate Merlot. It marries the lavish, ripe fruit of a warm site with the elegance and structure of a cool locale. As in previous years, the dominant character traits include blackberry, anise, cassis and dried currants. Below that is a bed of juicy black fruit and supple, silky tannins. While it drinks well now, this Merlot will continue to evolve and improve over the next decade.” (Steve McIntyre)

My Review: Sadly, I have zero tasting notes for this wine and will have to revisit it in their Crossroads Tasting Room in Carmel!

GALANTE VINEYARDS

While I have presented Galante wines on my website before (check out Galante: Now This Cowboy Makes Big Reds!, this was my first occasion to meet Jack Galante. The Galante family has a long legacy in the region, with his grandfather James Frank Devendorf founding Carmel-by-the-Sea and the Highlands Inn!  You can read more about the Galante history on their website.

A few years back, Galante sold its vineyards and winery to Tira Nanza (see above) and today it sources grapes from a variety of vineyards “from Paso Robles to Napa,” with most of their grapes coming from the Carmel Valley AVA, according to their website. According to Jack, they are still managing some vineyards.

Galante was the very last table we stopped at during this event – and my lack of tasting notes reflect that.  I haven’t been to their tasting room in a couple of years, so I will try to get back out there soon!

2021 Galante Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Blackjack Pasture, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV, $80 (#1118)

Winery Notes: N/A – pre-release

My Review: My only note was that this was one heck of a serious cab.  I definitely need to retaste this wine when it is released! August 2023

2021 Galante Vineyards Legacy Red Wine, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14% ABV, $85 (#1119) 54% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon

Winery Notes: “This ongoing series celebrates Jack’s great-grandfather’s – James Frank Devendorf – vision, who founded the town of Carmel-by-the-Sea. Aged in new French Oak for 15 months, this Bordeaux-style wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, featuring blackberries, violets and cocoa on the nose. Dried cherry and strawberry middle notes lead to a long, lingering finish of spice and tobacco. Cellar-worthy for many decades, but enjoyable right now as well.”

My Review: The only notes I took said that this wine exhibited some rather intense fruit – also worthy of a retaste soon! August 2023

THE TASTING ROOMS

All of these wineries have tasting rooms in Carmel, Carmel Valley, or out River Road – please check their websites for more information.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Monterey Wines Trade and Media Event in Drizzly Carmel!

THE STORY

I really feel like Decanting Monterey is getting some recognition when I start getting invited to events that are “wine trade only.” The Monterey Wines Trade and Media Tasting, was held in Carmel in early August, offering an opportunity to talk to vintners and their representatives one-on-one! This event was organized by Kim Stemler, Executive Director, and Tina Huynh, Membership & Program Coordinator, of the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association. I am grateful to have been able to participate for the first time in this event. I also thank I Brand & Family for validating this by sending me a personal invitation.

The event was held at 7th and Steak in Carmel-By-The-Sea on what started out as a drizzly morning. We paid no attention to the drizzle and immediately headed to the back patio to start tasting wines alphabetically.  28 wineries were scheduled to pour several wines each, which meant there was a lot to do in our limited time.  My partner and I have a strategy: we prioritize wineries at which we have not tasted, we choose 2 wines at each winery table, we share the taste, and dump the rest. 

We really valued the opportunity to talk directly to the winemakers, CEOs, vineyard managers, tasting room managers and others at this special event.  Each winery was a unique experience.  Although we didn’t get to every table, I nonetheless have a lot of wines to present from this event.  I struggle with how to do that and not get grossly behind in my posts.  I’m expecting 3 posts to cover this single event. So, I am continuing my twice weekly post until I get caught up.

THE WINES

I have 12 wines to present to you today these local wineries: Caraccioli Cellars, Corral Wine Co., Folktale Winery, Holman Ranch, J Lohr, and Lucy Wines. Winery notes come from their websites or conversations with the representatives at this event. It was eye opening for me to see the wholesale prices for the wines.  While I am usually extended an industry discount, I am grateful for the occasional offer of the wholesale price for my wine education events.  That allows me to present higher quality local wines in nonprofit, budget-limited classes.  Any errors in this post are mine and mine alone. I encourage you to check their websites regarding tasting opportunities!

CARACCIOLI CELLARS

Caraccioli Cellars is one of the best places to taste sparkling wines in Monterey County, with their Brut Rosé being one of my top choices for a special celebration. We were excited to learn about their Private Property label – a second label to bring a more affordable option to highlighting our region while still leveraging grapes from the family’s highly acclaimed Escolle Vineyard. 

2021 Private Property Brut Rosé, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 12% ABV, $40        (#1086) 57% Chardonnay, 42% Pinot Noir

My Review: Very pale pink in color. Not too yeasty on the nose. Very crisp and tart with a lot of fruit flavors. Fine bubbles dissipated quickly. August 2023

2017 Caraccioli Cellars Brut Cuvee, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 12% ABV, $60 (#1087)

Winery Notes: “Produced as a mixed cépage of Chardonnay (60%) and Pinot Noir (40%), this wine is aged on the lees four years. Bright and fresh with layers of depth and structure, the Brut Cuvée is our flagship wine.” 93 Points Wine Enthusiast

My Review: A little barnyard on the nose. Fine bubbles on the crisp and slightly tart palate. Classic. I would like to present this one in a class. August 2023

CORRAL WINE CO.

It was great to see winemaker Adrien Valenzuela at this event and taste some brand new vintages!  I like to present Corral wines in my classes because I believe Adren is one of the best up-and-coming winemakers in our region.  While his whites are very tasty, what he can do with red varietals and blends is impressive. I say, “Watch this space!!”

2022 Corral Sauvignon Blanc, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1088)

My Review: Honeydew on the nose. A nice, round palate finishing with pineapple and citrus fruits. August 2023

2022 Corral “Pancho’s Chard” Chardonnay, Carmel Valley, Monterey County (#1089)

My Review: Nice, crisp palate. Smooth, well-melded fruit. Tasty. August 2023

FOLKTALE WINERY

As of this event, I had not yet been to Folktale for a formal tasting, but was scheduled for a winery tour with winemaker David Baird the very next day! (Post coming soon!!)

Folktale Brut Sparkling Wine, Monterey County, 11.8% ABV, $40 (#1090)

Winery Notes: “Light and refreshing, we made our Brut to enjoy on its own or paired with, well, just about anything. This sparkling wine opens with notes of green apple, banana, and tropical kiwi, developing into flavors of peach and tart strawberry on the palate. Enjoy chilled and often.”

My Review: A sweet nose. Tiny bubbles on the light, pleasant palate. August 2023

2022 Common Thread Three Strands Red Wine Blend, Central Coast AVA, 12.8% ABV, $40 (#1091) 57% Pinot Noir, 28% Pinot Gris, 15% Pinot Meunier

Winery Notes: Description of the 2021: “A blend of 2 red and 1 white grape varieties, this natural wine exudes character. Juicy with bright red fruits and exotic spice, the wine has bright acidity and fine whole-cluster tannin. Pairs wonderfully with vegetarian dishes or as a refreshing aperitif wine.” This is David’s own label.

My Review: Slightly cherry nose. A little tart. Very balanced with some cinnamon on the finish. Would be good with food! August 2023

HOLMAN RANCH

For us, it was a real treat to meet Kirstie Dyer, the CEO of Holman Ranch at this event.  I really owe Holman Ranch a visit (they make a Syrah now, after all!) and would love to see the ranch itself.

2019 Holman Ranch Jarman Estate Reserve Brut Rosé, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $114 (magnum) (#1092)

Winery Notes: “The 2019 Reserve Jarman Sparkling Brut Rosé begins with a bright citrus nose of grapefruit and lemon, carried by balanced marine salinity. Notes of raspberry and strawberry introduce a warm palate, enhanced by a hint of freshly risen dough, showing great precision. A well-integrated, restrained dosage is complemented by a persistent méthode champenoise mousse.” 87% Pinot Noir, 13% Chardonnay

My Review: Barely pink – very light in glass. We liked the flavors and the bubbles in this sparkling rosé. August 2023

2022 Holman Ranch Estate Susan’s Saignée Rosé of Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV, $37 (#1093)

Winery Notes: “The 2022 Susan’s Saignée Rosé shows a light salmon hue in the glass. This wine has aromas of bright strawberry and watermelon, accompanied by more tropical characteristics. The palate gives passion fruit, lemon peel and orange blossom, adding complexity. This wine is clean and lively with balanced acidity.” Made from 667 and 777 clones.

My Review: Pale pink in glass with a slightly sweet nose. Yeasty, lean palate. Metallic taste. Not a patio wine. August 2023

J LOHR

I enjoy seeing J Lohr at these events, even though I put them in a different category from our smaller, local vintners. It was terrific to meet Kristen Barnhisel, their winemaker for white wine located in Greenfield. The wines they presented today allowed us to try some different things. Would be nice if there were a tasting room in the county, but I guess I’ll just have to get down to Paso Robles more!

2021 J Lohr Arroyo Vista Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $25 (#1094)

Winery Notes: “The 2021 Arroyo Vista Chardonnay exhibits intriguing aromas of paperwhites, Meyer lemon, ripe apple, pear, and crème brulée. The rich palate texture is balanced by layered flavors of pear, lemon cream, baking spices, and minerality, with a long, sweet oak finish.” 94 Points, Best of Class, Gold at the 2023 Los Angeles International Wine Competition

My Review: A bright, pale yellow in the glass. Butter and pineapple on the nose, carrying over to the palate. Tasty. I liked it. August 2023

2022 J Lohr Wildflower Valdigué, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $13 (#1095)

Winery Notes: “Crafted in the style of Beaujolais wines. This light-bodied red wine from Monterey is perfect when served chilled and can pair with a wide variety of foods…Served slightly chilled, displays inviting fresh raspberry, cranberry, and pomegranate aromas, with a bit of black pepper and hibiscus. Flavors of brambly, bright red berry with a touch of spice, mid-palate acidity lead to a juicy, mouthwatering finish.”

My Review: So very purple in color. Cranberry, hibiscus, and plum on the nose. A surprisingly lean palate, yet quite tasty. Not a typical varietal we find bottled in these parts. August 2023

LUCY

I had never head of Lucy before, so I am including a bit of extra information about them – I was stuck by their affordability for the quality – and their charity-driven purpose.

About Lucy: “Welcome to Lucy, made by the Pisoni family. Elegant, approachable, meaningful, and fun. The Lucy philosophy is to craft beautiful wines that are classically made for pure and vibrant expressions. The wines also represent important aspects of our region’s history and community…

“The wines we take great care in crafting under our Lucy label are standouts for us in their ability to combine glamor with versatility. Because they pair well with a wide range of dishes, they’ll shine in any setting. We’re particularly proud to be able to match these three wines to a trio of outstanding causes: funds to support breast cancer research, ocean conservancy, and the Big Sur Fire Department.”

You can read more about the making of these wines here: https://lucywines.com/behind-the-wine/

2022 Lucy Wines Rosé of Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, $24 (#1096)

Winery Notes: “If the Lucy Rose of Pinot Noir offers any preview into the quality of the coming wines for a given vintage, rest assured that 2022 will certainly be a vintage to remember. Sporting shades of melon, salmon, and coral that are classic for a Lucy Rosé, this beautiful offering packs unyielding aromatic intensity as it chills and condensates on the sides of the glass. Delicate at first with notes of fresh strawberry and subtle, mineral driven undertones, this wine begins to offer complexities seldom seen in rose as it warms slightly. Plush notes of peach blossom and watermelon waft into the air, as the first sips offer citrus driven flavors of tangerine and orange peel, backed by tart raspberry and rose petal. Brief but impactful aging in 100% neutral French oak barrels offers an added layer of texture that pairs seamlessly with fresh, prickly acidity.”

My Review: Pale salmon in color. Musty goodness on the nose, perhaps the best smelling rose of the day.  Followed by big rose flavors, making it the tastiest rose of the day. August 2023

2022 Lucy Wines Pico Blanco White Blend, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, $26 (#1097)

Winery Notes: “Our blend of pinot gris and pinot blanc is named Pico Blanco to commemorate a mountain peak in Monterey County known for its beauty and its high-grade limestone mineral deposits. With Pico Blanco, we pay homage to Monterey County’s earliest grape growing traditions–traditions in which pinot gris, an early-planted cool climate grape in the region–played a central role. Crafting this wine is a way for us to locate ourselves in historical time and place and to respect the traditions of grape growing in Monterey County.

“As always, purity and complexity continue to be our focus. The pinot gris and pinot blanc grapes to be blended into Pico Blanco are hand-sorted and carefully pressed to moderate the extraction and flavor derived from their skins. We use entirely neutral barrels for fermentation to sustain the purity of the fruit and to augment its texture. We also depend exclusively upon native yeast. Doing so is another way we maintain the traditional winemaking practices we prize. At the same time, this practice allows us to coax complex flavors from the fruit. We bottle Pico Blanco without any fining.”

My Review: A delightful, floral nose. Round flavors on the palate. Lingering finish. August 2023.

THE TASTING ROOMS

Most of these wineries have tasting rooms in Carmel-by-the-Sea or in Carmel Valley – I encourage you to get out there and try them for yourselves! please check their websites for more information.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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I Brand & Family’s Summer Releases: Pulling Out All Stops!  

THE STORY

As soon as we got word that the I Brand & Family’s summer releases were available for pickup, we assembled most of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod and head to sunshine in the valley.  We were on a mission to taste these wines and make our selections.  We were thrilled that Angie was managing the tasting room that day. She encouraged us to compare and contrast varietals from different AVAs side by side.  What fun!

SOME FACTS AND FIGURES

Interesting note: According to the I Brand & Family website, the 2023 Summer Release wines are only available to wine club members for the time being! There are a couple of factors at play, both addressed in Ian’s Summer 2023 Winemaker Letter:

1. Climate Change: The small yields of 2020-2022 due to wildfires, storms and hot weather significantly reduced the production for many of our local vintners. According to the latest County of Monterey Crop & Livestock Report, there was a 20% reduction in the value of grapes harvested in 2022, dropping them from 5th place to 7th in crop value in Monterey County. This was due primarily to the end-of-summer heat wave. Fingers crossed for a better 2023…so far, so good…lots of rain, just bring on more warm, sunny days!

2. Demand for Monterey Grapes: As Monterey grapes and winegrowing areas are exposed through the creativity of our local vintners, more and more of the best fruit gets bought up by others.  While non-Monterey vintners have historically purchased roughly 50% of our grapes (see Monterey County Vintners & Growers Association Fast Facts), the demand goes up as specific vineyards and varietals get put on the map through the fine work of our local vintners who produce such good quality, good value wines. 

THE WINES

Before I get into the new releases, let’s pause for a moment to explore those fun side-by-side tastings accompanied by my notes:

SIDE-BY-SIDE COMPARISONS

We tasted the Cabernet Francs and then the Cabernet Sauvignons side-by-side for some AVA and winemaking style comparisons. Most of these were previously presented in this blog.

Cabernet Francs:

2020 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bayly Ranch, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900): Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose.  Lean palate of dark fruit – a bit more like a Pinot Noir.  This wine was made in a leaner Chinon style. It was earthier, with a touch of smoke, Kalamata olive.

2020 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 12.8% ABV, $48 (#901): Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit – seems to be made in a richer, Bordeaux style. Or is it just the fruit? Fruitier, fresher, juicier.

Cabernet Sauvignons:

This was a fun side-by-side, as it was the battle of the higher end Cabs with a more moderately priced version, each from a different vineyard. When we did the side-by-side, I had assumed we had tasted and presented all the wines previously, which evidently is not the case for the one from the Massa vineyard!

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Fellom Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Cruz County, 13.7% ABV, $75     (#751): Caramel on the nose, followed by a lean palate.  More Napa-like in overall composition.

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Vineyard Block 10, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $75 (#1064): Intense dark fruit and dust on the nose. A rich, juicy palate with a nice finish. This wine is a tad more my style.

2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Cruz County, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904): Dark ruby in the glass. It has a juicy, rich, dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the mellow palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. This old vines Cabernet is very well priced. Ian is giving all the value to his fans on this good wine. We took some home.

TODAY’S WINES

I have 9 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at their tasting room on June 30th. Winery notes come from their Summer 2023 Winemaker Letter. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! Any errors are mine and mine alone. 

2022 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $30 (#1056)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our third vintage of Arneis from Vista Verde. We originally tried this block out because we were looking for anything white after the fires of 2020 in case the smoke taint was worse than we thought. It turns out that the Vista Verde hillside does a damn good version of this rare and resurging Piedmontese variety with textbook apricot, honey and raw almond flavors. Our wine making remains largely unchanged over the last three years: Nail the pick, press whole cluster, settle, ferment and age in the same barrels and let it rest on lees until we are ready to bottle. Every time I open a bottle, I’m happy I did.”

My Review: Pale golden in color. Sweet grapefruit and apple on the nose. Tasty palate with round flavors, crisp yet some honey notes, and a long finish.  We liked this wine. June 2023

2022 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13% ABV, $30 (#1057)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We continue to put about 5 days of skin contact on our Eden Rift Pinot Gris, flirting with a ramato (copper) style, but not driving into the esoteria that can characterize ramato Pinot Gris in Friuli. Now in our 5th year of working with the Eden Rift site, we’re really dialing in our pick times to capture maximum complexity and depth in the wine. It can take time in bottle or in the decanter for this to reach its apex of enjoyability, but we think it’s worth it. When our Pinot Gris is at its peak, it’s a super compelling wine, unique in its marriage of lightness on the palate and grip on the finish.”

My Review:  Salmon in the glass. Very delicious palate with a lingering finish of caramel and lingering fruit skins. We liked this wine, as well! Year over year – a favorite. June 2023

2022 Paysan Chardonnay, Jacks’ Hill, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.4% ABV, $22 (#1058)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We are suddenly short on Paysan Chardonnay. After years of swimming upstream stylistically, we’ve had a coincidental convergence of factors that have open the floodgates on this wine; not the least of which is a majority leap in quality. The 2022 vintage was small, berried and intense with tremendous acidity. This wine is fantastic and I’m ashamed that we need to put it on allocation. Like with our Albariño this year, we will be in touch once we move through the initial release with any available bottles remaining.”

My Review: Straw in the glass.  Slight buttery notes on the nose. A light and clean palate with a slight tartness – more like a Chablis.  Even non-Chardonnay lovers can like this wine. June 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $36 (#1059)

Winemaker’s Notes: “When we were still pouring the 2019 Escolle Vineyard Chardonnay in the tasting room I had a friend text me that her friend told her she really liked our oaky Chardonnay. This had resulted in some confusion because she was sure I would never make an oaky Chardonnay. I suppose technically it’s true; this wine sees a lot more oak than I put on any other white wine and bears some of the typical markers of new barrels. But it’s also a play on the adage popularized by Dave Ramey – that he’s never seen a wine that was overoaked, just a barrel that was underwined. Ultimately, I am quality focused and style agnostic.  Escolle Chardonnay is dense, flavorful and high acid. We let it spend 11 months in cooperage, including two new puncheons (twice the size of a normal barrique), which is a really long time for a white wine, and then another six months in stainless to ‘marry’.  The result is a lively, textured, long-lived Chardonnay worthy of sharing the table with the best wines in the world.”

My Review: Pale in color. Good fruit on the nose.  A rich palate with a slight sweetness on the finish.  This tends to be one of our top picks and one of the best Escolle Vineyard Chardonnays produced! June 2023

2020 La Marea Old Vines Grenache, Central Coast AVA, 14% ABV, $30 (#1060)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This blend of three ‘old vine’ Grenache vineyards from the Central Coast is a unique wine. There aren’t more than a handful of old vine Grenache vineyards on the Central Coast and we’ve gone about collecting every significant block (and some fairly tiny ones) we can because we believe in the history and future of Grenache in our region. We’ve tried bottling grenache every which way, but this three-vineyard blend is tops for depth and approachability –– it’s like everything you want from a great Pinot Noir at a third of the price. Try it with a slight chill on a warm summer evening with light fare from the grill or stash it in the cellar for a couple of years. Our experience, is our Grenaches really start showing their full potential between years 4 to 8.”

My Review:  Translucent ruby in the glass. A noseful of Grenache. Cherry and crushed berries on the palate with some cinnamon on the finish. This is a very good Grenache. June 2023

2021 Paysan Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $27 (#1061)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve developed quite a reputation for our throwback Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a real rarity – a thoughtful, balanced, approachable Cabernet at a reasonable price. The 2021 vintage is one of my favorites in California – the wines have such prodigious quality and this is no exception. I’m constantly shocked by the amount of Cabernet Sauvignon we bring in and I know that if my mentors like Randall Grahm and John Alban were dead, they’d be rolling over in their graves. Thankfully they’re not and I wish them many happy years. Like all of our Paysan wines, it belongs on your table now and for years to come.”

My Review: Inky in color. Dark berry jam balanced by garrigue/herbal notes. Juicy on the palate. A bargain. Like a Languedoc wine. June 2023

2021 Paysan Petite Sirah, Pierce Ranch Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 12.9% ABV, $25 (#1062)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We stopped making Petite Sirah in 2017 because our reserved, elegant version of the grape did nothing but confuse people. By 2021, we’d had enough of people asking for it in the tasting room and decided to see if we could get back into Block One on Pierce Ranch. Thankfully, Josh was able to find a couple of tons for us in our favorite Petite Sirah section. Planted on the fractured shale of old sea beds and fermented with 1/3 whole bunch inclusion, this is the perfect wine for barbecue or richer fare demanding darker fruit flavors.”

My Review: Garnet in the glass. Fresh raspberries on the nose. Crushed red berries on the palate with some structure on the finish. June 2023

2022 I Brand & Family Piquette Nat, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $18 (#1063)

Winemaker’s Notes: “I think people are beginning to catch on to the beauty of our Piquette Nat. Similar to a beer in fizziness and alcohol but without the weight or wheatiness, it’s perfect chilled for Summer and pairs excellently with a variety of flavorful foods. Our 2022 version is much heavier on the hibiscus so it’s almost like a sparkling Jamaica agua fresca or showing shades of dry Lambrusco. The perfect match for street tacos. I swear it’s addictive.”

My Review: This vintage is very different previous ones – quite ruby in appearance.  Reminded me a bit of a very fine, tasty, bubbly French vinaigrette! June 2023

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Vineyard Block 10, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $75 (#1064)

Winemaker’s Notes: “…This is a great coastal mountain Cabernet, classically styled and age worthy; a time piece from the heyday for California Cabernets before vineyards were replanted with restrictive root stocks and new clones. Growing in diverse topography at higher elevations lens towards intense fruit, elegance and balanced tannins. The cool maritime climate helps drop the daily diurnal in the Carmel Valley AVA (aka Cachagua), which through air and time loosens into an incredible and wide expression of true mountain magic. Like all mountain fruit, our Massa Cabernet offers an ardent expression of the varietal with structure, depth and age-ability. Great vintages off the vineyards have aged more than thirty years beautifully. Wild red and black fruit aromas are complimented on the palate thanks to natural acidity captured upon the vines. Dark fruit and graphite transition directly to a palate expression of dark berries and ethereal savory umami. Unbelievable.”

My Review: Quick side by side: Intense dark fruit and dust on the nose.  A rich, juicy palate with a nice finish. I prefer this wine. I confess to having a Carmel Valley Big Red palate! We have this wine at home already! June 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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