Tagged: San Benito County

Folktale: a tradition that changes over time!

by Central Coast Sharon and Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos!

THE STORY

We met David Baird of Folktale Winery at the 30th Anniversary Monterey Winemakers Celebration in Carmel-by-the-Sea this past June.  He offered us, my friend Erin O’Reilly and me a tour of the winery and a tasting. We could not manage to schedule our visits for the same date, so we visited him separately.  Erin visited him in late June and my partner and I, in early August – during perhaps the busiest wine tasting week of our summer!  Lesson learned:  pace these things out! We each deeply appreciated the private tour and detailed discussions we had about the evolution of Folktale wines and his own path to becoming a winemaker!

Readers: You are getting a real treat today, as this post is co-authored with my friend Erin O’Reilly at tèr·ra·ve·nos! My notes today are a combination of what I think I heard from David during our visit 😊, significant input from Erin, and information from the Folktale website.

If you drive out Carmel Valley Road just a few miles from Highway 1, you will see the Folktale entrance on the right. Located on the site of the former Chateau Julien Wine Estate, this winery has a beautiful, spacious setting for all the outdoor events it holds there. In addition to its tasting room, Folktale has 5 acres of vineyards, an estate home, and a 10,000 square foot barrel room. In 2015, winemaker Gregory Ahn purchased it and renamed it Folktale Winery & Vineyards.

When they first opened as Folktale, we noticed right away that it wasn’t going to be a quick taste of wines, but more of an experience – sit down, spend some time with us, enjoy our wine garden. What a great destination for weddings or a relaxed wine tasting. With its proximity to Highway 1, the location is a great one for locals and tourists alike.

The pandemic hit them hard with the mandated shutdowns, but they found a creative way to come out of it, creating a popular outdoor dining experience in their wine garden, differentiating itself from the typical Monterey tasting room. It has evolved into a sit down, order some food, taste the wines, and listen to music kind of place – and has always been a great wedding venue. Shoot, they even have a Sunday brunch! I have friends who enjoyed being able to go there with their families to enjoy food and wine in the height of the pandemic. 

Folktale prioritizes best vineyard practices and finding more appropriate wines for their growing locations.  Their estate 5-acre vineyard is “100% organically farmed meticulously by hand.” Their 300 acre vineyard in Arroyo Seco is Sustainability In Practice (SIP) Certified®. That vineyard is being replanted over time.  I think David told me 40% of their production comes from and long-term relationships with other vineyards in the area. They like the sandy, rocky, granitic soil, great for grapevines.

Since taking ownership, they have already transformed the barrel room into a full-fledged wine production facility, moving in the tanks and adding a catwalk, a new cooling system, and upgraded electrical for production operations. David shared with us the longer vision to replant the vineyards on the property and turn the estate home into a luxury hotel-type operation. Today they produce about 15,000 cases of wine across 30 different wines, reflecting their diverse portfolio. They have a goal of increasing production 10% per year. 

David was excited for harvest, hoping the nice weather would hold through veraison, harvest and crush, all outdoors activities before the juice is brought inside for fermentation. Due to our cooler spring, harvest was looking a week or two late (as of early August). He said he checks the weather every day – every warm day we get helps us catch up.  He suggested maybe we think it has been colder than it really has – that we coastal dwellers are just “sissies.” 😊Unfortunately, the previous couple of years can’t be used for comparison due to the wildfires of 2020 and the extreme heat of 2021.  And this is predicted to be an El Niño year, another concern for the vineyards. I am hoping the warm August and September temperatures have brought things back in line – before the fall rains come!

Sangiovese

After touring the wine production facility, we walked through the vineyard on the way back to the Tasting Room.  Currently, there is Sangiovese planted on site, but it is too cool of a climate for that. They plan to rip it out and plant something more appropriate, such as Chardonnay – not yet decided. We talked about the new Carmel Coastal AVA which has been proposed.  It would encompass the Folktale property.  It has been taking a long time for it to come up for discussion and decision.

Our mutual assessment:  We are excited and hopeful for Folktale’s potential in the coming years.  They have the perfect venue to showcase everything Monterey can do with wine and it certainly looks like they’re going to embrace the opportunity ahead of them. Their strategic plan is solid and they give David the leeway to lean into his creativity to dare to do something different.

ABOUT THE WINEMAKER

“David Baird is an innovative winemaker with his roots deeply grown in the vineyards of the Central Coast of California. With his winemaking degree from Cal Poly, David has previously made wine at Halter Ranch, Edna Valley, Justin Winery and Fess Parker.

“In 2015, David moved back home to the Monterey peninsula where he began collaborating with Greg and Madigan. Together they opened Folktale Winery & Vineyards in the summer of 2015, with a focus on high quality, delicious wines that embrace organic farming and natural winemaking. A blank slate for Baird, the opportunity to establish an entirely new winemaking strategy for a brand-new winery was a little daunting at first, but ultimately has provided the freedom to be creative. “There is a lot of fear and adventure in creating wines for a new winery. There’s no safety net below you. During our first year at Folktale we played it safe with very practical decisions. Since then, we’ve had a lot of fun creating new small batch wines like a Pet-Nat, whole cluster barrel fermented Syrah, and a Rosé of Grenache Blanc.”

“Folktale is the perfect place to stretch his wings. Having grown to nearly 500 acres of estate vines in Monterey County, the winery offers exceptional opportunities to innovate. “The Central Coast offers such an excellent selection of varietals, but it hasn’t seen much winemaking development over the last 50 years. My goal is to reinvent the wheel a little, refreshing old techniques to come up with new ideas. We want to have some fun while evolving as a winery and as a brand, all the while focusing on fine wines that people will enjoy, and new wines that people may not otherwise try.”

THE WINES

I have 7 wines to present to you today from our overlapping tastings across 3 labels: Folktale,  Le Mistral and Common Thread. Winery notes come from my conversation with David, the Folktale website, or as otherwise indicated.  Any errors are mine and mine alone.

ABOUT LE MISTRAL

We were curious how they got the Le Mistral label, as we knew it as belonging to Joseph Phelps. Here’s the story:  Le Mistral was sold by Phelps to Brosseau and Folktale acquired it from them. Their Joseph’s Blend is in honor of Joseph Phelps!

Le Mistral is a nod to the howling winds that whip down through the Rhône Valley, similar to what we experience in the Salinas Valley with the coastal winds that can tear through vines, prolong the growing season, and concentrate flavors in the berries. We feel this to some extent almost every afternoon in our little coastal town.

ABOUT COMMON THREAD

Common Thread is the winemaker’s own label. The name “Common Thread” comes from a single palmar crease on the hand associated with various conditions, including Down syndrome. The label has the outline of three hands, David’s and his two sons, one of whom has the condition. Sales from this wine go to supporting non-profits. You can the find Common Thread wine label online and in local shops throughout the region. Cheers to that!

2021 Folktale Talking Animals Pétillant-Naturel (Pet-Nat) Sparkling Wine, Mission Ranch Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey, 12.9% ABV, $35 (#1120)

Winemaker’s Notes from The Wine Stop: “Pétillant Natural is a natural sparkling wine using the ancestral method. Bottled just before the primary fermentation finishes, the natural effervescence and sediment are the evidence of things finishing in the bottle. The wine is bright, with notes of green apple, banana cream pie, grapefruit blossom, and undertones of guava and pineapple. The palate is lively and fresh, benefitting from the abundance of bubbles and bright acidity.”

Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Light and sparkly in the glass. Champagne notes on the nose. Soft and creamy on the palate with white peach and nectarine. Everything you’d want in a pét nat. Well balanced with bright acidity. They did disgorge and David shared a few highly entertaining videos that included dry ice and bursting bottles. Craftsmanship at its finest. August 2023

2022 Le Mistral Grenache Barrel Sample, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County (#1121)

Winemaker’s Notes: David let us taste this barrel sample in the middle of active winemaking operations. My garbled notes say he considers this wine to have good complexity and an intrigue that he just loves. 

My Review:  We tasted this as a barrel sample. Resembles a light Pinot Noir in the glass – pale ruby.  Light cherry nose. Very balanced with cranberry and sour cherry flavors. Good tannins on the back palate. August 2023

NV Folktale The Lion for Real – an orange wine, 5-Year Solera, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $40 (#1122)            

I didn’t know anything about solera wines, so David gave us a little tutorial on how this one is made.  Again, my notes are a little garbled, so this is how I think he explained it:  You create a pyramid of the barrel racking system and connect them with hoses.  You place your fresh wine in the top barrel, and continue to move it down, one barrel at a time, as you continue to top off the lower barrels. By the time you get to bottling wine from the bottom barrel, you really don’t know the exact blend or vintage of what is in the bottle. David is excited to play with these types of wines. It is these kinds of ventures that prove him to be a creative winemaker.

I found this Wine Spectator article which explains solera winemaking far better than my notes:

“A solera system is a collection of barrels, traditionally stacked (with the bottom row containing the oldest vintage), for the purpose of fractional blending across vintages…It’s a way to create a house style, and to keep a historic thread running through a beverage that is made year after year. I find it helpful to picture a tower of barrels from multiple vintages, with the youngest barrels on the top of the pile and the oldest at the bottom. You start by removing some wine from the oldest barrel on the bottom, but then you replace that missing portion with wine from the next oldest barrel, and that portion is then replaced with the next oldest barrel, and so on down the line so that the missing amount is always replaced by the next-oldest available wine. Because you never entirely empty the barrels, the barrel on the bottom will always have at least a small amount of the oldest vintage.”

Winery Notes: This 5-year Solera is made from Riesling and Viognier wines. 

Wine Enthusiast – 90 points: “A mustard-yellow shade in the glass, this skin-fermented, solera-style orange wine shows ripe melon, fresh tangerine and apple-juice aromas on the nose. The texture is very grippy on the sip, where apple and orange-peel flavors meet with a slight tonic element, proving rather clean.” — Matt Kettmann.

Our Review: Cloudy, creamy and light brown sugar in the glass. Nice bouquet of peach and apricot with a touch of Mandarin orange, with those notes following over to the palate. Fruity.  August 2023

Erin’s addition: This is the wine that caught our attention at the 30th Annual Monterey Winemaker’s Celebration. That we have a local winemaker playing with orange wines and showcasing these bottles at a festival was noteworthy. David’s exploring winemaking beyond the mainstream (even though orange wines are arguably one of the oldest wine styles going back millennia). I was actually surprised that the wine wasn’t as grippy as I was expecting and still had noticeable freshness. No doubt thanks to the multifractional blending and maturation that is a solera system. Anyone who loves orange wine needs to get their hands on a bottle of The Lion for Real.

Kudos to Folktale for supporting David in exploring these exciting styles.

2021 Folktale The Ruler Pinot Noir, Central Coast, 13% ABV, $75 (#1123)

Winemaker’s Notes: “The savory and rich mouthfeel spotlights dark fruit, dried herbs, forest floor, and tobacco leaf notes on wild chalky tannins.”This wine includes grapes from both Monterey and San Benito Counties. The grapes are from Monterey and San Benito Counties: 44% Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 42% Cienega Valley AVA, 14% Chalone AVA. As David said, “Trying to make the best Pinot requires going outside SLH.” 45% whole cluster, 30% new oak.

Our Review – Powered by tèr·ra·ve·nos: Bright ruby in the glass. Robust for a Pinot Noir, with that bright Monterey cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. Toast, caramel, lavender, a touch of pepper and a hint of sous bois that points to exciting things to come for this wine. Tasty. August 2023

2021 COMMON THREAD 100% Whole Cluster Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 12.0 % ABV, $40 (#1124)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Fermenting wines whole cluster, or not taking the berries off the stem, produces wines that tend to have an elegant savory and dried herb quality that just fermenting grapes on their own can’t produce. It’s in this vein that this Pinot Noir was crafted – from the organically farmed Pelio Vineyard in Carmel Valley…”

Wine Enthusiast – 94 points: “This whole-cluster bottling, which supports Down’s syndrome initiatives to honor the winemaker’s son, offers dark berry jam aromas and a hint of herb on the nose. Firm tannins frame the sip, where plump red currant, lavender and violet flavors lead into a peppery finish.” — Matt Kettmann

Erin’s Review: A pretty red, featuring cherry, strawberry, currant, kirsch, and supple floral flavors. More fluid than dense, this unfolds nicely with soft, ripe tannins and a velvety finish. Despite the ample core fruit, this is a restrained, elegant Monterey Pinot. June 2023

2018 Folktale The Hound Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.7% ABV, $95 (#1032)           

Winemaker’s Notes: “THE HOUND is a classic blend of Bordeaux varietals, combining 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, and 9% Cabernet Franc sourced 89% from Massa Estate Vineyard and 11% from Cedar Lane Vineyard. The not-so-little brother of our Reserve Bordeaux blend, this wine is complex and elegant with aromas and flavors of blueberry, mocha, floral lilac, frisée, dusty vanilla, brown sugar, creme de cassis, pencil lead, cedar wood, and hibiscus.  The texture offers nice richness with round and full tannins. The Hound is a beautiful, bold wine that will benefit from aging.”

Erin’s Review: “Ripe, and well-built, with a racy core of blackberry, black currant, red plum, melted brown sugar, warm baking spice, an inlay of violet, and a touch of graphite. Grippy, generous tannins with a tug on the focused finish. (Let’s see what this tastes like in another 5 years, it’s still showing young, and probably has another 5-10 to go – comfortably. I hope the hold some of this back in their library.)”June 2023 (Central Coast Sharon previously presented this wine on Decanting Monterey here)        

2020 Le Mistral Syrah, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 13.3% ABV, $60 (#1125)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Brosseau Vineyard in the Chalone AVA has a remarkable combination of limestone soils, weather patterns and organic farming that produces intense minerality, texture and richness in its wines.  The Syrah was natively fermented in bins and 500L puncheons, then aged for 11 months in 17% new French oak barriques producing a wine that has rich, dark flavors and can be enjoyed for years to come.” Co-fermented with 4-8% Viognier.

My Review:  Dark ruby in color. Alcohol with a touch of earth, burnt oak and bubble gum on the nose. Nice intense berries and dark plum on the palate. August 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The Folktale Tasting Room (Wine Garden) is located at 8940 Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel, CA 93923. Phone: (831) 293-7500. They are open: Monday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday: 11:30 – 7:30; Sunday: 10:00-4:00. They are closed Tuesday & Wednesday. They also have a Sunday brunch from 10-4 and have recently begun offering tours every Thursday – Monday at 11:30 am, 1:00 pm and 2:30 pm.  You can get more information and make a reservation here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Even More Wines from the Monterey Wines Trade and Media Event!   

THE STORY

As I mentioned in my previous post, I really feel like Decanting Monterey is getting some recognition when I start getting invited to events that are “wine trade only.”  This is part 2 of my experience at the Monterey Wines Trade and Media Tasting organized by the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association in Carmel in early August. Check my blog for Part 1 from earlier this week and I will have one more next week!

Today’s post will include our engagement with Silvestri Vineyards, Rexford Winery, Opaque Wines, Scheid Vineyards, Scratch Wines, and Tira Nanza.    

THE WINES

SILVESTRI VINEYARDS

It’s been a while since I have tasted Silvestri wines.  I have long been a fan of their Barbera and Syrah, so it was a real treat to try these at this event.

2019 Silvestri Vineyards Estate Syrah, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $48 (#1098)

Winery Notes: “Syrah fans everywhere!  Our Syrah continues to please year after year.  Savor the aromas of blackberry and dried plum while enjoying the mouth-watering flavors, velvety texture along with medium tannins. Complement with sausage pizza, grilled veggies or grilled meat.”

My Review: Beautiful dark ruby in glass. Dark fruits enrobed with eucalyptus. Mouthfilling. Delicious. I had forgotten how delicious their Estate Syrah could be! August 2023

2019 Silvestri Vineyards Estate Barbera, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $75 (#1099)

Winery Notes: “Barbera is a red grape varietal originating from the Piedmont region of Northwestern Italy. Our small block of Barbera, which is the first planting of this varietal in Carmel Valley, was added to the vineyard to honor the Silvestri family heritage. It’s position on a warm southern facing slope allows this varietal to mature and ripen to its fullest potential before harvest.  With the influence of French oak barrel fermentation and maturation our Barbera exudes a deep richness and complexity that helps balance the grape’s high acidity.

“Black cherry, dried strawberry and plum aromas blend through to like flavors and move on to full, soft tannins with sufficient acidity. A more refined yet full-flavored Barbera.”

My Review: Hammy bacon on the nose, like BBQ ribs. Dark fruit on the palate. Yummy. August 2023

2019 Silvestri Vineyards Red Ranger Estate Syrah, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $75 (#1100)

Winery Notes: “The 2019 Red Ranger is the 7th release of our signature Syrah that represents a part of the vineyard featuring the Bien Nacido clone, which is known for its richness and complexity. We use 75% new French oak and age it in the cellar for 16 months…

“Red Ranger rocks!  That consistent depth of flavor, roundness and long finish are all here.  Blackberry, black currant and a trace of fig lead to the full mouthfeel, just the right acidity and long, luscious finish. Try with a sausage stew and roasted meats, or aged hard cheeses.” 93 points, 2023 Wine Enthusiast buying guide!

My Review: Inky in glass. Rich palate of dark fruits highlighted by some woody notes. My favorite red wine of the day. August 2023

REXFORD WINERY

I do miss Rexford’s tasting room in Carmel Valley.  It sat quietly next to Parsonage, where COraal Wine Co. is today.  We’d stop in to talk to the vintner from time to time.  He makes one heck of a delicious Chardonnay and Merlot.  But today I decided to try their Zinfandel.  We just don’t seem to have the right climate for Zinfandel, yet I continue to seek one out.

2019 Rexford Zinfandel, Gillian Enz Vineyards, Lime Kiln Valley AVA, San Benito County, 15.5% ABV, $37 (#1101)

Winery Notes: “Lime Kiln Valley is a small viticultural area located in the San Benito County south of Hollister. The area features soils of decomposed granite and limestone, with warm days and cool nights that lead to a long growing season producing balanced wines with great depth. We think that Sam’s great grandparents produced wine from grapes grown here more than a century ago so we are pleased to offer this Zinfandel. Aged in American oak and bottled without fining or filtration, the wine is full-bodied with rich berry flavors and a smooth finish. Enjoy it with barbecue, grilled meats or pasta.”

My Review: Garnet in color. While our region is not known for its Zinfandel, this Rexford wine is not bad for a lighter Zinfandel. August 2023

OPAQUE WINES

At the 30th Annual Monterey Winemaker’s Celebration, which I wrote about here, I talked about the Riboli Family wines and San Simeon’s Stormwatch. At this event, I chose the Opaque line of wines.

2019 Opaque Darkness  Red Blend, El Pomar District, Paso Robles AVA, San Luis Obispo County, 14.9% ABV, $30 (#1102)

Winery Notes: “The word “opaque” means “impenetrable to light” and refers to the dark, inky, impenetrable color of the Riboli family’s proprietary blend. Opaque Darkness brings together the impressive quality of our estate grown Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah grapes. After aging in French and American barrels for 15 months, our hand-crafted artisan blend reveals ripe flavors of raspberry and blackberry with notes of spice and vanilla. Enjoy the darkness!”

My Review: Inky in color. Dark fruit berries not overdone. Very balanced. Really quite delicious. A superb value. August 2023

SCHEID VINEYARDS

At the Scheid table, we were introduced to a couple of family wine lines I had not heard of before. These two wines were lots of fun and perhaps the polar opposites, showing the range of what Monterey County can produce. 

Sunny with a Chance of Flowers: “Sunny is made for mindful wine lovers – who, like us, believe less can be more. Zero sugar, fewer calories and less alcohol, yet still positively delicious! It’s everything you want in a wine and more –certified sustainable, vegan and gluten-free.”

VDR – Very Dark Red: “Very Dark Red—the name speaks for itself. Effortlessly bold, it captivates the senses with an inherent confidence that draws you in. Slightly mysterious, yet unexpectedly approachable, this robust red blend reveals new layers of depth and personality with each lingering sip.”

Sunny Positively Bubby Rosé, Monterey County, 9% ABV, $20 (#1103)

Winery Notes: “Everything is better with bubbles! Our Sunny Bubbly delights with flavors of fresh strawberry and watermelon wrapped in a package of lovely, fine bubbles and a crisp, refreshing finish. We are all born to sparkle…Aromas of fresh strawberry and watermelon. Lovely, fine bubbles. A crisp, refreshing finish.” 91 points – Wine Enthusiast and Best Buy

My Review: Pale pink. Cantaloupe flavors. Very bubbly and light. Zero sugar. Made from Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. August 2023

2020 VDR (Very Dark Red) Proprietary Red Blend, Hames Valley AVA, Monterey County, 15% ABV, $25 (#1104)

Winery Notes: “Very Dark Red—the name speaks for itself. VDR is a non-traditional proprietary red blend headlined by a rare combination of Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot – two grape varietals known for their extraordinarily deep violet hues, concentrated flavors and full-bodied profiles. Big and bold, VDR not only turns heads, it turns the curious into evangelists with its layered complexity, lush mouthfeel, supple tannins and smooth, lingering finish.” https://www.cheersandco.com/

My Review: Inky in the glass. Dark fruit and caramel on the nose. A rich, jammy palate of dark fruit. Very tasty – a great value. August 2023

SCRATCH WINES

I think anyone who has met Sabrine Rodems would agree that she is a formidable talent in the Monterey winemaking world. She makes wine for Kori, Scratch, and Wrath, all in the same building at Wrath Wines.  Her talent, creativity and stamina are equally impressive. I fell in love with Wrath’s San Saba Syrah many years ago and knew, when I tried the Wrath Ex Dolio Falanghina, that she was one to think outside the box and dare to be different. 

I’ve had Scratch wines a few times and finally visited her cute, trendy and spacious tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. I was delighted to chat with Sabrine a bit on this day and taste some more of her wines.

2022 Scratch Rosé of Pinot Noir, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV (#1105)

Winery Notes: N/A

My Review: Bright pink in the glass. Fuji apple and great flavors on the palate – bright and delicious. August 2023

2021 Scratch C47 Marsanne/Roussanne White Blend, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $59 (#1106)

Winery Notes: “These two Northern Rhone varietals grown in Carmel Valley from the Paloma Creek Vineyard are traditionally blended together. The slightly crisp nature of Marsanne with white nectarine, quince & lemon balance out the creamy Roussanne with fig, peach, pear and a little nuttiness.”

My Review: Melon on the nose. Creamy from the fruit with an attractive sweetness at the finish. August 2023

2019 Scratch C47 Red Blend, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 14.5% ABV, $95 (#1107) Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot

Winery Notes: “Classic Bordeaux blend from the Santa Cruz Mountains. Cab Sauvignon and Cab Franc from the steep slopes of Janaca Vineyard. Merlot harvested from the high elevation of the Zayante Vineyard. Black berries, blueberries with hints of juniper & spices all come together in this blend, creating a sophisticated and age worthy bottle to enjoy now or in the future.”

My Review: An attractive dark garnet in color. Lots of berry flavors, yet retains a lean nature. August 2023

TIRA NANZA

We had met Greg Hill at the Monterey Winemakers’ Celebration back in June, so it was great to see him here and try another of his wines.  We are big fans of our newest and youngest wineries and believe Tira Nanza shows great promise. I previously reviewed his Cabernet Sauvignon here.

2022 Tira Nanza Malbec Rosé, Central Coast AVA, 13.5% ABV, $30 (#1108)

Winery Notes: “Back by popular demand, our 2022 Malbec Rosé may differ from its predecessor in color but it shares the same vibrant fruit and complexity that made the ‘21 so special. Lighter in color and more tropical in flavor, with notes of strawberry, cantaloupe and mango, this Rosé can be enjoyed in any setting. Fermented and aged in Stainless Steel”

My Review: We detected floral notes on the nose and palate, with anise on the finish. It was served very cold. August 2023

THE TASTING ROOMS

Most of these wineries have tasting rooms in Carmel-by-the-Sea or in Carmel Valley – please check their websites for more information.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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I Brand & Family’s Summer Releases: Pulling Out All Stops!  

THE STORY

As soon as we got word that the I Brand & Family’s summer releases were available for pickup, we assembled most of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod and head to sunshine in the valley.  We were on a mission to taste these wines and make our selections.  We were thrilled that Angie was managing the tasting room that day. She encouraged us to compare and contrast varietals from different AVAs side by side.  What fun!

SOME FACTS AND FIGURES

Interesting note: According to the I Brand & Family website, the 2023 Summer Release wines are only available to wine club members for the time being! There are a couple of factors at play, both addressed in Ian’s Summer 2023 Winemaker Letter:

1. Climate Change: The small yields of 2020-2022 due to wildfires, storms and hot weather significantly reduced the production for many of our local vintners. According to the latest County of Monterey Crop & Livestock Report, there was a 20% reduction in the value of grapes harvested in 2022, dropping them from 5th place to 7th in crop value in Monterey County. This was due primarily to the end-of-summer heat wave. Fingers crossed for a better 2023…so far, so good…lots of rain, just bring on more warm, sunny days!

2. Demand for Monterey Grapes: As Monterey grapes and winegrowing areas are exposed through the creativity of our local vintners, more and more of the best fruit gets bought up by others.  While non-Monterey vintners have historically purchased roughly 50% of our grapes (see Monterey County Vintners & Growers Association Fast Facts), the demand goes up as specific vineyards and varietals get put on the map through the fine work of our local vintners who produce such good quality, good value wines. 

THE WINES

Before I get into the new releases, let’s pause for a moment to explore those fun side-by-side tastings accompanied by my notes:

SIDE-BY-SIDE COMPARISONS

We tasted the Cabernet Francs and then the Cabernet Sauvignons side-by-side for some AVA and winemaking style comparisons. Most of these were previously presented in this blog.

Cabernet Francs:

2020 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bayly Ranch, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900): Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose.  Lean palate of dark fruit – a bit more like a Pinot Noir.  This wine was made in a leaner Chinon style. It was earthier, with a touch of smoke, Kalamata olive.

2020 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 12.8% ABV, $48 (#901): Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit – seems to be made in a richer, Bordeaux style. Or is it just the fruit? Fruitier, fresher, juicier.

Cabernet Sauvignons:

This was a fun side-by-side, as it was the battle of the higher end Cabs with a more moderately priced version, each from a different vineyard. When we did the side-by-side, I had assumed we had tasted and presented all the wines previously, which evidently is not the case for the one from the Massa vineyard!

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Fellom Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Cruz County, 13.7% ABV, $75     (#751): Caramel on the nose, followed by a lean palate.  More Napa-like in overall composition.

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Vineyard Block 10, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $75 (#1064): Intense dark fruit and dust on the nose. A rich, juicy palate with a nice finish. This wine is a tad more my style.

2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Cruz County, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904): Dark ruby in the glass. It has a juicy, rich, dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the mellow palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. This old vines Cabernet is very well priced. Ian is giving all the value to his fans on this good wine. We took some home.

TODAY’S WINES

I have 9 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at their tasting room on June 30th. Winery notes come from their Summer 2023 Winemaker Letter. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! Any errors are mine and mine alone. 

2022 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $30 (#1056)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our third vintage of Arneis from Vista Verde. We originally tried this block out because we were looking for anything white after the fires of 2020 in case the smoke taint was worse than we thought. It turns out that the Vista Verde hillside does a damn good version of this rare and resurging Piedmontese variety with textbook apricot, honey and raw almond flavors. Our wine making remains largely unchanged over the last three years: Nail the pick, press whole cluster, settle, ferment and age in the same barrels and let it rest on lees until we are ready to bottle. Every time I open a bottle, I’m happy I did.”

My Review: Pale golden in color. Sweet grapefruit and apple on the nose. Tasty palate with round flavors, crisp yet some honey notes, and a long finish.  We liked this wine. June 2023

2022 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13% ABV, $30 (#1057)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We continue to put about 5 days of skin contact on our Eden Rift Pinot Gris, flirting with a ramato (copper) style, but not driving into the esoteria that can characterize ramato Pinot Gris in Friuli. Now in our 5th year of working with the Eden Rift site, we’re really dialing in our pick times to capture maximum complexity and depth in the wine. It can take time in bottle or in the decanter for this to reach its apex of enjoyability, but we think it’s worth it. When our Pinot Gris is at its peak, it’s a super compelling wine, unique in its marriage of lightness on the palate and grip on the finish.”

My Review:  Salmon in the glass. Very delicious palate with a lingering finish of caramel and lingering fruit skins. We liked this wine, as well! Year over year – a favorite. June 2023

2022 Paysan Chardonnay, Jacks’ Hill, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.4% ABV, $22 (#1058)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We are suddenly short on Paysan Chardonnay. After years of swimming upstream stylistically, we’ve had a coincidental convergence of factors that have open the floodgates on this wine; not the least of which is a majority leap in quality. The 2022 vintage was small, berried and intense with tremendous acidity. This wine is fantastic and I’m ashamed that we need to put it on allocation. Like with our Albariño this year, we will be in touch once we move through the initial release with any available bottles remaining.”

My Review: Straw in the glass.  Slight buttery notes on the nose. A light and clean palate with a slight tartness – more like a Chablis.  Even non-Chardonnay lovers can like this wine. June 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $36 (#1059)

Winemaker’s Notes: “When we were still pouring the 2019 Escolle Vineyard Chardonnay in the tasting room I had a friend text me that her friend told her she really liked our oaky Chardonnay. This had resulted in some confusion because she was sure I would never make an oaky Chardonnay. I suppose technically it’s true; this wine sees a lot more oak than I put on any other white wine and bears some of the typical markers of new barrels. But it’s also a play on the adage popularized by Dave Ramey – that he’s never seen a wine that was overoaked, just a barrel that was underwined. Ultimately, I am quality focused and style agnostic.  Escolle Chardonnay is dense, flavorful and high acid. We let it spend 11 months in cooperage, including two new puncheons (twice the size of a normal barrique), which is a really long time for a white wine, and then another six months in stainless to ‘marry’.  The result is a lively, textured, long-lived Chardonnay worthy of sharing the table with the best wines in the world.”

My Review: Pale in color. Good fruit on the nose.  A rich palate with a slight sweetness on the finish.  This tends to be one of our top picks and one of the best Escolle Vineyard Chardonnays produced! June 2023

2020 La Marea Old Vines Grenache, Central Coast AVA, 14% ABV, $30 (#1060)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This blend of three ‘old vine’ Grenache vineyards from the Central Coast is a unique wine. There aren’t more than a handful of old vine Grenache vineyards on the Central Coast and we’ve gone about collecting every significant block (and some fairly tiny ones) we can because we believe in the history and future of Grenache in our region. We’ve tried bottling grenache every which way, but this three-vineyard blend is tops for depth and approachability –– it’s like everything you want from a great Pinot Noir at a third of the price. Try it with a slight chill on a warm summer evening with light fare from the grill or stash it in the cellar for a couple of years. Our experience, is our Grenaches really start showing their full potential between years 4 to 8.”

My Review:  Translucent ruby in the glass. A noseful of Grenache. Cherry and crushed berries on the palate with some cinnamon on the finish. This is a very good Grenache. June 2023

2021 Paysan Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $27 (#1061)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve developed quite a reputation for our throwback Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a real rarity – a thoughtful, balanced, approachable Cabernet at a reasonable price. The 2021 vintage is one of my favorites in California – the wines have such prodigious quality and this is no exception. I’m constantly shocked by the amount of Cabernet Sauvignon we bring in and I know that if my mentors like Randall Grahm and John Alban were dead, they’d be rolling over in their graves. Thankfully they’re not and I wish them many happy years. Like all of our Paysan wines, it belongs on your table now and for years to come.”

My Review: Inky in color. Dark berry jam balanced by garrigue/herbal notes. Juicy on the palate. A bargain. Like a Languedoc wine. June 2023

2021 Paysan Petite Sirah, Pierce Ranch Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 12.9% ABV, $25 (#1062)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We stopped making Petite Sirah in 2017 because our reserved, elegant version of the grape did nothing but confuse people. By 2021, we’d had enough of people asking for it in the tasting room and decided to see if we could get back into Block One on Pierce Ranch. Thankfully, Josh was able to find a couple of tons for us in our favorite Petite Sirah section. Planted on the fractured shale of old sea beds and fermented with 1/3 whole bunch inclusion, this is the perfect wine for barbecue or richer fare demanding darker fruit flavors.”

My Review: Garnet in the glass. Fresh raspberries on the nose. Crushed red berries on the palate with some structure on the finish. June 2023

2022 I Brand & Family Piquette Nat, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $18 (#1063)

Winemaker’s Notes: “I think people are beginning to catch on to the beauty of our Piquette Nat. Similar to a beer in fizziness and alcohol but without the weight or wheatiness, it’s perfect chilled for Summer and pairs excellently with a variety of flavorful foods. Our 2022 version is much heavier on the hibiscus so it’s almost like a sparkling Jamaica agua fresca or showing shades of dry Lambrusco. The perfect match for street tacos. I swear it’s addictive.”

My Review: This vintage is very different previous ones – quite ruby in appearance.  Reminded me a bit of a very fine, tasty, bubbly French vinaigrette! June 2023

2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Vineyard Block 10, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $75 (#1064)

Winemaker’s Notes: “…This is a great coastal mountain Cabernet, classically styled and age worthy; a time piece from the heyday for California Cabernets before vineyards were replanted with restrictive root stocks and new clones. Growing in diverse topography at higher elevations lens towards intense fruit, elegance and balanced tannins. The cool maritime climate helps drop the daily diurnal in the Carmel Valley AVA (aka Cachagua), which through air and time loosens into an incredible and wide expression of true mountain magic. Like all mountain fruit, our Massa Cabernet offers an ardent expression of the varietal with structure, depth and age-ability. Great vintages off the vineyards have aged more than thirty years beautifully. Wild red and black fruit aromas are complimented on the palate thanks to natural acidity captured upon the vines. Dark fruit and graphite transition directly to a palate expression of dark berries and ethereal savory umami. Unbelievable.”

My Review: Quick side by side: Intense dark fruit and dust on the nose.  A rich, juicy palate with a nice finish. I prefer this wine. I confess to having a Carmel Valley Big Red palate! We have this wine at home already! June 2023

THE TASTING ROOM

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

Support Decanting Monterey’s Wine Education Efforts!

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Austin Harlow Has a Mid Life Crisis in Carmel Valley!

It’s rare for the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod to be caught by surprise – but Austin Harlow Winery & Mid Life Crisis Wines surprised us! They recently opened a new tasting room in Carmel Valley Village – right next door to I Brand and just down the row from Parsonage, Corral, Chesebro and Windy Oaks.

I had never heard of Austin Harlow so it was time for us to get educated! There were 9 wines on the tasting menu with 2 options: half flight for $10 and full flight for $20.  Now, that’s enticing! We chose a half flight, so I still need to go back and try his other wines.

Bill Austin was in the tasting room that Friday afternoon, so we had a chance to talk a bit. We learned about how he sources his grapes, including managing and farming one of the Hollister vineyards himself.  Other local vineyards are well known to us, including Zabala Vineyards down in Arroyo Seco AVA and Manzoni Estate Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. He prides himself on bringing quality wines in attractive and fun bottles at reasonable prices. This is a sentiment echoed by several of his neighboring vintners and one of the reasons I admire Monterey/Central Coast wines.

“Drawing grapes from some of the finest vineyards in California, Austin Harlow Winery prides themselves in showcasing some of the best wines being produced in the area.”

About Austin Harlow Winery & Mid Life Crisis Wines:

“Austin Harlow Winery was established in 2014 by Bill Austin of Monterey Peninsula, a long time wine enthusiast. The flagship brand is “Mid Life Crisis Wines”, officially released in March 2015. Drawing grapes from some of the best vineyards in California, the Mid Life Crisis Wines offer both intense and complex flavors at a great value. The Mid Life Crisis lineup consists of Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel (from a vineyard planted in 1935), a San Benito County Zinfandel, a Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon (from grapes planted in the Clements Hill region), a Santa Lucia Highlands Monterey County Pinot Noir (from an appellation considered to be one of the best in the world), and Santa Lucia Highlands Monterey County Chardonnay.

“All of the Mid Life Crisis Wines have been patiently aged in small, French and American oak barrels of the highest quality and then bottle aged for one year so that they are delicious immediately upon release, but they also will increase in complexity with additional bottle age…

“…Did you ever taste a $60 or $80 bottle of wine for under half the price?! Mid Life Crisis Wines are truly luxury wines at affordable prices.”

Today’s Wines

Today I am presenting 5 Austin Harlow Winery & Mid Life Crisis Wines. Please note they have 2 websites, with the second being Mid Life Crisis Wines. I could not locate winery notes for the wines. Any errors are mine and mine alone.

2022 Austin Harlow Reserve Marisol’s Moscato, Napa Valley AVA, 12.5% ABV, $22 (#1042)

My Review: Sweet stone fruits on the nose, followed by a sweet palate. This was a fine Moscato. June 2023

2022 Mid Life Crisis Wines Savignon Blanc, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, $22 (#1043)

My Review:  Melded tropical fruits and fresh cut grass on the nose. Tart tropical fruits and citrus on the palate. June 2023

2021 Austin Harlow Reserve Puggy’s Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.4% ABV, $38 (#1044)

Winemaker’s Notes: From the Manzoni Estate Vineyard.

 My Review: This was the last wine we tasted – after we had the bigger reds.  My apologies, but I have no notes. My recollection is that it was representative of the region. June 2023

2021 Austin Harlow Reserve Zinfandel, San Benito AVA, 14.9% ABV, $28 (#1045)

My Review: Intense raspberry jam on the nose, carrying over to the palate.  Notes of buttered caramel popcorn on the finish. June 2023

2021 Austin Harlow Reserve Cammie’s Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito AVA, 14% ABV, $48 (#1046)

My Review: Dark garnet in color. Intense dark berries on the palate with bright red fruit (red currant) on the finish. We all thought this very young wine, with more time in the bottle, has the potential to be a very good wine. June 2023

Where to Taste

Austin Harlow Winery & Mid Life Crisis Wines Tasting Room: Located at 19 E Carmel Valley Rd. Suite G, Carmel Valley Village. Open Friday – Sunday from 11:00 am – 6:00 pm.

I Brand & Family’s Spring 2023 Release: Some Very Special Surprises!  

The Decanting Monterey Wine Pod looks forward to an I Brand & Family release party – a tradition for us.  There is always something surprising to taste.  And the most recent one in March was no exception.  It is a great opportunity to taste the new releases in a festive and relaxed setting.  In addition to their consistently great Albariño, standouts at this event were the Chenin Blanc from Carmel Valley and the Pinot Noir (yes, I said Pinot Noir!) from Cienega Valley, plus the most unique Cabernet Pfeffer, also from Cienega Valley. The food and entertainment were both high quality.  Oysters and small bites were provided by Oystertown and the music, by El Pacado de Juana.

I have learned there is no rush to taste the wines at these events. There is plenty of time to experience a wine fully (color, nose, body, flavors, finish), compare notes with the wine pod, and dump the rest so I can get us home safely.  Then comes the great part:  deciding which wines we will take home!

I have 8 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at the release party. Winery notes come from their Spring 2023 Winemaker Letter or their website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! I used the microphone in my phone to transcribe the long, descriptive paragraphs. I think I corrected the sometimes-amusing text it recorded (had a hard time with Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Pfeffer, but igot Tellicherry and Cachagua right the first time), but, as always, any errors are mine and mine alone.

2022 La Marea Kristy Vineyard Albariño, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $24 (#955)

Winemaker’s Notes: “At this point, what’s left to say about our Kristy’s Vineyard Albariño? We began making Albariño in 2011 to test our theory that the Salinas Valley was best suited to saline, mineral-driven, high acid whites. Steve McIntyre, the gentle caporegime of Monterey County winegrowing, pointed us to several options but said he thought Kristy’s was the best quality. By 2013 we were pretty much locked in on our winemaking program.  We tried varying our winemaking a couple of times since then but have always come back to the original because it just works. 2/3 direct press, 1/3 skin contact for two days. Cold fermented in stainless steel, arrested malic. We’ve been told several times this is the standard for aromatic whites in the new world. The biggest issue is, with the drought, yields have been down on the vineyard. We just don’t have enough of this wine. The 2022 vintage is full of intensity and bright acidity, combining the open fruit flavors of the 19 and the direct bite of 2020. A spectacular wine.

“Tasting Notes – Aromas of white nectarine and honeysuckle abound. Bright acidity leads on the palate framed by a redolence of underripe pineapple and stone fruit, which persist and blend with wet river rock on the finish.”

My Review: Straw in the glass. Nose of bright citrus, balanced by the sweetness of honeydew melon. A tasty palate with grapefruit zest on the finish. Super fresh. March 2023

2022 Paysan Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $24 (#956)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Maybe five years ago, I told my friend Eben Drucker that Sauvignon Blanc would soon be on the rise. Eben has helped us with national and international sales of our brands for almost ten years and had been mixed up in the wine business for twice that. Sauvignon Blanc was at its nadir, totally disregarded in the wake of Kim Crawford and grassy New Zealand mass production. I saw the quality of the vineyards in the ground, the budding renaissance of Sancerre on east coast wine lists, and whispers on the hippier edge of California winemaking oddly about a variety associated with country clubs and gala balls. We had been getting our toes wet in Sauvignon Blanc for a consulting project and I was closing in on an idea for a wine. We worked on the idea for a couple of years in small lots and, in 2021, we made the leap and took the bulk of the vineyard. It sold like hotcakes, and we expect the same with the 2022 vintage. The Zabala Vineyard is among the rockiest you’ll see, resplendent with river stones, reminiscent of the galets roulés of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Sauvignon Blanc at Zabala is the Sauvignon Musqué variation, which means the wine has more fruit notes, especially ripe melon.

“Tasting Notes – Satsuma Mandarin and herbaceous notes of fresh-cut chives, tarragon, and wet limestone shine brightly up front. The attack on the palate is bright and distinctly tropical dragonfruit and papaya, evolving into dry citrus flavors reminiscent of Buddha’s hand.”

My Review:  Straw in color. Perfume on the nose. Rich flavors on the palate with notes of green pepper. One in our group thought it was a touch harsh. March 2023

2022 Paysan Rose, Central Coast AVA, 12.7% ABV, $19 (#957) 81% Mourvèdre, 12% Cinsault, 7% Grenache  

Winemaker’s Notes: “Over the last few vintages, our rosé has become more Mourvèdre focused, lending the wine more depth and intensity despite its pale color. With roughly 4 hours of skin contact across the lots, the 2022 has a pale, almost vin gris hue, but don’t be fooled. Hiding beneath that hint of pink is deep, textured wine. Both the Arroyo Seco Canyon Vineyard and the Siletto Vineyard are rocky and the minerality shows through. Extremely pleasurable to drink, we expect this to be peaking just as the summer heat hits. I’m in love with the new package. If you have a porch or patio, you need some of this rosé.

“Tasting Notes: Initial aromas of watermelon and cantaloupe are inescapable, transitioning to trailside strawberry with a touch of air. Melons and strawberries persist on the palate, and bright red fruits continue into the finish transforming into a pleasing strawberry-basil herbaceous salinity.”

My Review: Very pale pink in the glass.  A nice, rich rose nose out-promises the delicate palate of white peach with a watermelon finish. Based on the writeup above, this wine deserves a revisit! March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Massa Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $36 (#958)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our first year working with the Chenin Blanc off Massa, (née Durney) in the Cachagua region of the upper Carmel River Basin. Planted on its own roots fifty years previous, these vines can now be called old vines, (per the Historic Vineyard Society). They produced a stunning Chenin Blanc: racy and intense. We held ours back an additional six months in bottle to allow it to flesh out. The Massa Vineyard is a special place. Still very much a rough diamond, I have seen the most stunning wines emerge from the vineyard – on par with vineyards known internationally. We made a mere 44 cases of this wine and more than half will go out to the initial club release. If you would like multiple bottles, please contact us promptly.

“Tasting Notes – Aromas of flint, toasted brioche and lemon verbena are immediately present. These flavors follow onto the palate, incorporating drier, flavors of green walnuts and more brioche; beautiful floral notes reminiscent of lavender and lilac grace the dry finish.”

My Review: Pretty, light yellow in the glass. Clean nose. Lovely, full bodied palate of fresh fruit, with peach and citrus flavors, balanced by brioche and salty notes. Our favorite of the tasting. March 2023

2020 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard – Old Vine Grenache, Santa Clara Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $42 (#959)

Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our ninth iteration coming from the centenarian Grenache vines cared for by the Besson family since the 1940s. We’ve settled into a nice place with the winemaking and the wines grow into deep, thoughtful ruminations on time and place as they settle into the bottle. For those who have a chance to drive by the classic vineyard (it’s right across from Gilroy Gardens on Hecker Pass Highway heading west from Gilroy) the third generation of the Besson Family has started a small brand and you can taste their wine amid the old soldiers. We share these blocks with our good friends, winery mates and longtime fellow travelers, John and Alex from Birichino. Over the years they’ve sold small amounts to old-vine lions of California wine like Ridge, Sandlands, and A Tribute to Grace. We keep our allocation from the rockiest section next to Uvas Creek and produce it with spontaneous fermentations, 50% whole cluster, a touch of French oak influence and sixteen months on lees in barrel. It’s the same recipe we’ve used since 2014 and we keep it consistent because it really works with the site and because with consistent winemaking you can really see vintages expressed over time. The 2020 vintage was beset by high smoke covering the sun for extended periods and so the wine is less boisterous but more deep and textured at this early stage. This is always a star in our tasting room.

“Tasting Notes – Ripe red fruit, specifically red delicious apples, fresh pressed cider and savory hints of manzanita and Tellicherry peppercorn abound on the nose. The palate is similarly bright with additional herbaceous notes of fresh tarragon. This quickly evolving wine wraps up with distinct tannins and aromatic pine duff.”

My Review:  112-year-old vines! Garnet in color.  Perfume, plum and cherry on the nose. A good, mid-weight, bright wine with cherry notes and a little leather on the finish. March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Flint Vineyard Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, $36 (#960)

Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve gained a reputation locally as Pinot Noir naysayers, which isn’t fair. We love Pinot Noir and I made my fair share of it when I worked in the Santa Cruz Mountains (and I still make a great deal for special projects). Because of that experience, we’re very particular about where we get our Pinot Noir from, which makes sense as Pinot Noir is very particular about where it grows well. We re-entered the Pinot Noir fray to prove a point. So much discussion in Pinot Noir winemaker circles focuses on how cold the vineyard is and what clones are used. When we worked with the Enz Vineyard, the Pinot Noir felt like a red-headed step child because the vineyard was warm, without consideration for how wonderful the site is. I am of the opinion that a great site always speaks most strongly, so we took the fruit. I was elated by the response. After the relationship with the Enz family imploded, we moved around the corner to Scott Flint‘s place. Scott is a really kind and super interesting guy. He used to make his own wine but now spends his days restoring old tractors. We used a 1946 Ford forklift to load the bins. If the bin is a little heavy, it gets difficult because the front tires don’t want to stay on the ground and that makes it tough to steer. Scott’s vineyard is at the base of Mount Harlan, home to Calera, and because the cold air sinks off the mountain onto his property it buds out late and picks about a month later than Enz and a couple of weeks later than the ‘cool climate’ Santa Lucia Highlands. All things in wine and viticulture are relative, there are no hard truths. The Flint bears the signature of the special mixed granitic and calcareous soils of the Cienega combined with the  darker red fruits and cherry compote character of a cool climate pinot noir. 2021 was just a special vintage and willowy Pinot Noir often shows vintage variation more readily than other grapes. Lovely.”

“Tasting Notes – Notes of cedar and dried porcini mushrooms are present on the nose, subtly melding with undertones of cherry preserves. The palate is well-integrated but complex. The preserved cherries come back into play, evolving into the warm cherry pie flavors typical of pinot noir. Bright acidity wraps things up and leaves you with baking spices and vanilla bean.”

My Review: Rich ruby in the glass. Light cherry on the nose. Rich palate, balanced and delicious, with tobacco on the finish. Not a Pinot Noir drinker, but I like this wine. Promises to be an exceptional wine. We bought this to cellar, as we have with other reserve Pinot Noirs from this region, with excellent results. March 2023

2021 I Brand & Family Gimelli Vineyard Cabernet Pfeffer, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.8% ABV, $36 (#961)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Only about 10 acres of Cabernet Pfeffer exist in the world, and most all of it is in San Benito County. The Gimelli Vineyard encompasses the remnants of the El Gabilan Vineyard, first planted in the 1890s in Grass Valley, a side canyon off the Cienega Valley on the east side of the Gabilan cordillera. Cabernet Pfeffer was rumored to be a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Trousseau made by San Jose nurseryman, William Pfeffer in the 19th century, but that story is apocryphal. Ken Ryan Kobza, our winery tsar, has been making Cabernet Pfeffer for the better part of a decade. We sent petiole samples to UC Davis five years ago and they matched most closely with a long-forgotten grape variety from the southwest of France called Mourtaou. Either way, Cabernet Pfeffer is a rare beast. Not fruity in the way California wine is alleged to always be, Cabernet Pfeffer is dominated by savory, umami flavors, like a cigar box and teriyaki. Special and super interesting, this is the only year we will make a single-varietal Cabernet Pfeffer. We’re proud to share this little slice of local history.

“Tasting notes – Our Cabernet Pfeffer smells like a humidor, with bold notes of cedar and sweet tobacco. This sweet and savory notes translate as unctuous teriyaki on the palate, quickly incorporating notes of spicy ancho chili on the mid-palate and closing with a hint of tart raspberry. Well-integrated tannins wrap up the experience.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Bouquet of enticing sweetness, balanced by cinnamon spice.  A bright palate with cranberry notes.  It is lean, medium bodied and unique, rare. We took one home. I hope we will cellar it for a bit. March 2023

2020 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Syrah, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.8% ABV, $36 (#962)

Winemaker’s Notes: “The 2020 Graff Syrah came early in the heat of 2020, which was fortuitous because it avoided the worst of the smoke. These vines are now more than 30 years old, farmed immaculately since their planting by the ace duo of Hector and Jose Bravo. This one, to me, shows with Chalone can be – it’s among the most compelling places to grow wine in America. Granitic brightness meets suave limestone texture, stems, and the blood iron that always emerges in great Syrahs. 80% whole cluster, 18 months on lees, another 8 months in bottle before release.

“Tasting notes – Earthy, meaty notes of peppered beef jerky. Graphite and clay transition into a savory mix of fire-roasted tomato confit and guajillo chili, which evolve into dark fruit reminiscent of a spiced blueberry compote ending with cumin and cardamom on the finish.”

My Review: Rich, dark garnet. Spice and earth on the nose. Dark berries and earth on the palate. March 2023

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Battle of the Carmel Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignons!

As we were driving out to Carmel Valley to select wines for the Carmel Rotary event in February, we hatched this idea: Wouldn’t it be fun to host a blind tasting of Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignons?  We ran the idea by one of our tasting room favorites, Summer Emmons, at Parsonage. She thought that sounded wonderful and started rattling off wineries which should be included – they were the same ones we had discussed in the car!

When we got home, Mr. H searched our collection to see if he could find wines from a single vintage. The oldest vintage we could find for all those wineries was 2015. And we did call around to try to add some other Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignons to the mix – but couldn’t get our hands on them.

This was a particularly good, albeit low yield vintage for Carmel Valley wines. As Sal Rombi of Rombi Wines explained to me long ago: Everything was going great, until flowering, when there was a lot of wind and rain. This resulted in about 55% fruit yield for the season.  Because there were fewer berries creating less weight on the vines, the fruit was much more intense, resulting in this delicious vintage. 

The hard part of arranging this event was finding a date that would work for everyone we wanted in the room. In the end, we pushed it out to March – and even then, lost a couple of participants. But it was the right group for the experience. In the room was the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod, Summer Emmons of Parsonage, and Erin O’Reilly of tèr·ra·ve·nos.

There was much anticipation and preparation for this event. The hardest part was the wine glasses:  first, finding 7 sets of glasses in which all 4 glasses were the same, and then getting all the spots off the glasses.  The amount of glassware reminded me of the time we tested Parsonage’s COVID wine tasting procedures – it was a lot of glassware, prompting them to change their plan.

The wines were all decanted at the same time. Not all our decanters were the same shape, but it was the closest we could come. And the wines were carefully pre-poured by Mr. H, a 2-ounce our of each of the 4 wines for each participant. Only he knew which wine was which and the order was mostly random. And only he and I knew exactly which wines were included in the mix, including the fact that one was a red blend. We also carefully planned the food pairings, with salami, cheeses, and a bit of dark chocolate to match the Cabernet Sauvignons.

Then the fun began. We used the tèr·ra·ve·nos tasting sheet to rate the wines. In general, we looked at and smelled each wine before we tasted them. We analyzed the flavors of each wine one-by-one. Since we didn’t know which was which, we could be bluntly honest about each one. With such a range of palates, we heard many descriptors…memorable ones…and we agreed that one of the wines – what we learned later was the red blend – tasted vastly different from the others. We did do an informal ordering of our preferences, with Wine #4 slightly edging out these other fine wines. This was a super fun format and we will do this again. Why not try this with your friends?

We started our evening with antipasto and 2 local whites:  2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White and 2019 Corral Wine Co. Sauvignon Blanc. Here are winery notes on these two wines and links to my prior postings about these wines:

2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White (#742): “Old Vine White field blend is a blend of 3 unusual varietals. Orange Muscat, Mission and Palamino.” This was a very light white with interesting flavors, which evoked a conversation amongst us about the varietals we don’t know.

2019 Corral Wine Co. Sauvignon Blanc (#604): “The Musque clone of Sauvignon Blanc showcases bright, vibrant aromas of tropical fruit. Guava and grapefruit compliment hints of freshly cut hay and wet stone. Finishes with a racing acidity.” This is one of our collective favorite local Sauvignon Blanc wines.

Today I am presenting the 4 Carmel Valley wines in the order we tasted. 3 have been presented here before, and 1 is new (you can tell by their numbers). As usual, the winery notes come from their tasting sheet, website, or conversations with the owner. My tasting notes this time are an amalgamation of what I heard during the tasting. Are you ready for the big reveal?

2015 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, 14.1% ABV, $85 (#57)

Our Review: Deep garnet in color. Spice, tobacco, black licorice and leather on the nose. Cinnamon, dark fruit, black cherry, black licorice, tobacco and a touch of smoke and leather on the tongue-coating, smooth palate with a woody, dry finish. Chewy tannins. March 2023

Previously reviewed on Decanting Monterey here.

2015 Bernardus Marinus Signature Red Wine, Marinus Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.1% ABV, $125 (#889) 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Petit Verdot, 23% Merlot, 15% Petite Sirah

Winery Tasting Notes: “This 2015 vintage of our highly regarded Signature Marinus exhibits a beautiful, deep robe. The aromas are redolent with dark red fruits and dried spices. On the palate we find bright ripe-red fruit flavors and notes of cedar on a long, rich finish, promising a long life to come! A wonderful example from our estate vineyard!

Our Review: Lighter garnet than the previous wine, perhaps a touch cloudy. Aromas of intense dark raspberry (that delicious aroma of Cachagua fruit!) and prune; a spice like sandalwood, eucalyptus, or cigar box; and white pepper. Fruitier, packed with dark fruit and chocolate notes with a long finish. Smooth and tasty, less tannic than the previous wine.   March 2023

Previously reviewed on Decanting Monterey here.

2015 Boëté Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate Grown, Saunders Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, 14% ABV, $80 (#239*)

Wine Enthusiast rated the 2015 Boëté Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 90 points.  “Roasted red-cherry aromas meet with charcoal, smoke, oregano and marjoram on the rustic nose. Stiffer tannins uphold both bright and dark-red fruit flavors on the palate.” Matt Kettmann, August 2020

Our Review: Dark garnet with hints of brown in the glass. A pretty nose of brambleberry, cassis, slightly floral, bakery yeast and “a fat crème de violet.”  Fruity flavors of blueberry, intense cassis, and sour cherry, checked by earth and green notes. Slightly acidic and alcoholic attributes. March 2023

Previously reviewed on Decanting Monterey here.

2015 Parsonage Tanner Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, 15% ABV, $90 (#953)

Winery Tasting Notes: “A beast of a cab, truly a bada$$. Think Jack Reacher from the books, not Tom Cruise in the movies. This brute has a deep, dark core of sophistication that reveals its identity with time. Black currants, huckleberry, and horehound licorice with great density on the palate and fully ripened tannins. My recommendation is to lay it down for a few years while it evolves into a peaceful warrior.”

Our Review: Garnet in color. Dark berries on the nose with floral and herbal hints combined with notes of smoke, wood and plastic. The palate says “Cabernet Sauvignon,” with beautiful, chalky, and smooth flavors of dark fruit, coffee, and smoke. The finish goes on forever. Perhaps our favorite amongst favorites. March 2023

I hope you enjoyed this post. Please give me feedback by leaving a comment!

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Monterey AWS “Squeezes in” a Tasting at Shale Canyon!

I was trying to come up with a place for the March monthly wine tasting for the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society when my neighbor dropped by a Shale Canyon tasting menu. She had been working there for a while and we thought this might be fun to do together! I am a fan of Shale Canyon wines and have written about them a couple of times – just search “Shale Canyon” in the search bar.  Their space seems small, so we went back and forth with the owners to determine a maximum capacity – and put it on the calendar.  In early March, the Monterey AWS members turned out in force (right up to the limit!) and everyone had a great time.

About Shale Canyon from their website: “Shale Canyon Wines started vinting small lots of hand crafted varietals in 2008…Currently Shale Canyon Wines is comprised of Keith Prader, the winemaker, and Tim Prader tasting room and vineyard manager.

Many thanks to Keith Prader, co-owner and winemaker, plus his knowledgeable, hardworking and fun staff, Janice and Alicia!

“Current production is about 1000+ cases per year with our main focus on producing wines that have outstanding nose, mouth feel and finish.  For the Estate wines we   are currently growing Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Petite Sirah and Mourvèdre.  We source fruit from larger, well established vineyards whose farming practices are exemplary in the industry and whose fruit is second to none.  The varietals include Syrah, Malbec, Chardonnay and Petite Sirah.  We enjoy making classic and unique blends as well .  Our Consortium is a classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.  The Striation is 75% Zinfandel and 25% Mourvèdre, a wonderful floral wine.  And Amalgamation, a very interesting blend of Zinfandel, Tempranillo and Petite Sirah. Quality is our main goal.  Quantity is always secondary. We hope you try and enjoy our wines!”

Today I am presenting 10 Shale Canyon wines. Some of these wines have been presented here before, but this was an opportunity to revisit a few of them, with a little input from our AWS members. As usual, the winery notes come from their tasting sheet, website, or conversations with the owner.

2019 Shale Canyon Chardonnay, Vigna Monte Nero, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, $25 (#498) 

Winery Notes: “Aromas of toasted marshmallow, subtle green apple, pear, peach and a hint of lemon peel. A long finish of vanilla bean and butterscotch. This wine was not cold stabilized or filtered and has noticeable tartrates in the bottle.  We recommend pouring this wine through a cheesecloth or a screen to remove them. Aged in 100% French oak.” Naturally fermented. 165 cases produced.

My Review: Golden in color. Butter and yeasty notes on the nose. Tropical palate of pineapple, peach, and a touch of caramel. Nicely balanced and delicious. A great price for an SLH Chardonnay!  March 2023

2017 Shale Canyon Striation, Shale Canyon Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, $40 (#500) 75% Zinfandel, 25% Mourvèdre

Winery Tasting Notes: “Rose petals and cinnamon on the bouquet with cranberry, pomegranate and raspberry gracing the middle.  A very long finish with vanilla bean and hint of licorice.  Medium plus tannins to make this an excellent wine for food pairings.”

My Review: Dark ruby in color. Aromas of strawberry.  Smooth and rich on the palate.  Dark, intense tobacco and Mourvèdre enveloping the dark cherry flavors. March 2023

2017 Shale Canyon Cabernet Franc, Shale Canyon Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, $30 (#948)

Winery Tasting Notes: “Our award-winning varietal starts with aromas of dark fruit, slight oak and a touch of floral. Distinguished flavors of dark cherry, blueberry, and cassis envelope the middle. The finish of leather, vanilla and medium firm tannins complete the experience of our flagship wine.” Best of Show, Best of Class.

My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Sweet blackberry on the nose. Smooth and yummy palate of dark, lean fruit. Very balanced. My favorite of the day. I have selected this wine for an upcoming DC wine class! March 2023

2017 Shale Canyon Amalgamation, Shale Canyon Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, $50 (#504) 48% Zinfandel, 36% Tempranillo, 16% Petite Sirah – all estate grown!

Winery Tasting Notes: “This unique blend is like no other!…All Estate Grown! The color of this wine is beautiful.  Take a glass out in the sun and let the rays reflect through the wine onto a simple piece of white paper and you will see what I mean.  A lovely floral bouquet starts the experience.  Deep fruit with cherry, dark berry and a hint of color.  Long finish with tobacco and firm tannins.  This wine will also compliment rich foods so fire up the barbeque and pull out the rib eyes!”

My Review: Inky in the glass. Vegetal notes on the nose, like caramelized onions with a touch of Creme de Cassis. A jamminess follows through on the palate, but, tonight, this tasted a bit sharp. This wine is usually a household favorite, so I definitely want to revisit it as a stand-alone. March 2023

2017 Shale Canyon Tempranillo, Shale Canyon Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, $30 (#503)

Winery Tasting Notes: “Subtle berry & cherry bouquet. Flavors of black cherry, plum and cranberry grace the middle.  A touch of spice and leather with firm structures tannins on the finish.” 100% Tempranillo.

My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. SweetTart on the nose.  Dark, lean fruit on the palate. A very nice wine. March 2023.

2019 Shale Canyon ZSM, Arroyo Seco AVA, $55 (683*) 48% Zinfandel, 32% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre

Winery Notes: “ZSM is a complex blend of varietals. On the nose you will get bright berry fruit with a touch of violet. The middle is full of dark fruit, predominantly blueberry, followed by raspberry and huckleberry. On the very long finish you will get a whisp of smokiness from the newer oak barrels, firm tannins and notes of vanilla.” (“Let’s see what we got”)

My Notes: Yummy nose, rich palate, fruity and very balanced.  This was a top favorite of the evening’s participants – everyone seemed to like this wine.

2018 Shale Canyon Petite Sirah, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, $35 (#949)

Winery Tasting Notes: “The nose on this is fruit, dark fruit, and lots of it. Blueberries, plums, blackberry, black tea and chocolate on the palate. Medium to firm tannins. 100% Petite Sirah.”

My Review: By now, it was very late in the tasting. Very smooth and rich with blue and black berry fruits. In one word: yummy. March 2023

2015 Shale Canyon Merlot, Arroyo Seco AVA, $25 (#950)

Winery Notes: “A very nice bouquet of berries and cherry. The flavors that really stand out are dark berry, current, raspberry with a touch of plum and tart cherry. A smooth finish of licorice with mild tannins and a hint of chocolate.”

My Review: It was extremely late in the evening, but I wanted to taste this anyway. Cooked, dark fruit dominated the palate. Definitely need to retaste this wine. March 2023

2015 Shale Canyon Mourvèdre, Shale Canyon Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, $30 (#499)

Winery Notes: “A bouquet of dark berry, violet and earthy aromas of black pepper, thyme and a hint of citrus. Bright fruit characteristics, with fresh strawberry, raspberry and subtle cherry.  Smooth tannins with hints of cedar and a drawn-out finish with late fruit. 100% Mourvèdre.”

My Review: Aromas of Scotch (!). (OK, like I said above, it is late in the tasting…) The palate was delicious – intense berries and balanced. We liked it. March 2023 

2016 Shale Canyon Partner’s Consortium, Shale Canyon Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, $50 (#951) 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot

Winery Tasting Notes: “A classic blend of Bordeaux varietals. There is a distinctive cherry note on the nose. It is very elegant, yet a complex wine with black berry, dark cherry and raspberry on the palate. It has a long finish with wisps of cedar, vanilla and silky tannins.”

My Review: Beautiful ruby color. Smooth, dark berries and mild baking spice on the nose. Nice.  March 2023

2014 Shale Canyon Cabernet Sauvignon, Arroyo Seco AVA, $35 (#952)         

Winery Notes: “Strong aromas of dark berries, black currant and a little cedar. This wine has flavors of blackberry, blue berry and cranberry. A long finish with a hint of smoke, toast and silky tannins completes the tasting experience. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.”

My Review: Pretty ruby in color.  The nose was a mix of vegetal and berry jam notes. Rich and delicious on the palate. March 2023

Visit Shale Canyon’s Tasting Room! You can try Shale Canyon wines ($20 and $25 tastings) at their tasting room on Paseo San Carlos Courtyard, Westside San Carlos between Ocean and 7th, Carmel-by-the-Sea.  Their Spring hours are Monday-Thursday 1–4pm; Friday 1-7; Saturday 12-7; Sunday 1 – 5 and suggest reservations for parties of 6 or more.  You can contact them at reservations@shalecanyonwines.com.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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I Brand Fall 2022 Release Party: A Simplified Setup!

Ian Brand’s release/wine pickup parties are always great events.  This time, the setup was a bit different – in a way that I liked! The food and music were moved outdoors, accompanied by a moon bounce and a very entertaining unicorn bucking bronco.  That allowed for better flow in the winery and more serious sampling of his new releases.  While we missed the catered food, the food trucks were a sensible and appealing alternative.

I have learned to pace myself at these events. By that, I don’t mean wine consumption (I am usually designated driver anyway), but note taking and reflection on the wines.  There is plenty of time to examine these wines. I was assisted by part of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod.

I’ve been writing wine reviews since the beginning of the pandemic. At first, it was every wine we opened. Eventually, it became just Central Coast wines. With this post, I have crossed the 900 wine reviews mark! Who would have thought this pandemic hobby to entertain family and friends would actually become something enduring!?!

I have 11 wines to present to you today from 2 labels: I Brand & Family, and Le P’tit Paysan (now Paysan) – most tasted at the release party. We’ll start with a couple of 2017s from our wine room. Winery notes come from their tasting sheet or website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. Any errors are mine and mine alone. 

2017 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 12% ABV, $30 (#894)

Winemaker’s Notes from the Tech Sheet: “Location: Tres Pinot Creek, (along San Andreas Fault Line), at only 800 foot elevation. 5% south facing sloped bench, rocky alluvial deposits representing melange of geologic formations around fault zone. The area receives some amount of marine layer, off the Monterey Bay, via the Pajaro River gap. Days are mostly warm with peak temperatures in the 90s, with cold nights descending into the low 50s during the Summer and lower in the Fall.

“Winemaking: 100% Cabernet Franc. A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 18 day maceration, aged 11 months in 6 neutral barrels and puncheons.

“Tasting Notes: Light to medium bodied, reflecting old world, Loire Valley inspired Chinon or Saumum-Champigny characteristics through the lens of California sunshine and diurnal shifts. On the nose, bright red berries, cranberries, mild spice and herbal qualities. On the palate, red fruits, moderate acidity and tannins, allow the savory herbs and umami flavor characteristics to shine thru, upon the very long, finish. It’s 11.7% finished alcohol, but we rounded up on the label because we were a little ashamed it was so low. Don’t tell anybody.”

Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “There’s a regal sense of restraint in this bottling, starting with a light color and aromas of strawberry, white pepper, marjoram and baked soil. Crisp cranberry and raspberry flavors are layered with wild chaparral and desert herbs, a style that will work well with a wide variety of foods, from tacos to tenderloin.” Matt Kettmann, 9/2020

Wilfred Wong of Wine.com – 92 points: “COMPOSITION: Cabernet Franc has been gaining traction over the past decade, and many of California’s smaller producers have uncovered a treasure trove some hidden vineyards. The 2017 I. Brand Cabernet Franc, from the Bayly Ranch, is a wine of excellent merit. TASTING NOTES: This wine exhibits clarity of varietal character. Its aromas and flavors of dust, dried herbs and earth should pair it beautifully with a grilled ribeye.” (Tasted: March 19, 2019, San Francisco, CA)

My Review: This Cabernet Franc is lean in Loire style. A bit too lean for me. I would prefer it in a richer, bigger Bordeaux style. August 2022

2017 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast, $25 (#895) 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot

Winemaker’s Notes: “Le P’tit Paysan offers intense blackberry, dark cherry aromas, chocolate, herbaceous and toasty notes on the palate. Medium-bodied, well-balanced with moderate and integrated tannins that give structure and liveliness to the wine.

“Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from two vineyards, a 44 year old vineyard planted in the calcareous alluvial deposits of the San Benito River and a 25 year old vineyard east of Gilroy, which grows in deep, extremely sandy soils against the foothills of the Diablo Range. The Petite Verdot from the Paicines AVA and grows in rocky alluvial deposits above the Tres Pinos arroyo. All three vineyards experience the warm days and cold nights typical of the Central Coast, allowing these late ripening Bordeaux varieties to be picked at high acidity and moderate sugars. Fermented whole berry in several lots with endemic yeasts, pressed after approximately 20 days. Aged for 11 months (3% new) French barrels. A beautiful example of ‘old school’ California Cabernet made with minimal intervention from mature vineyards.

“Pairs well with steak, duck, game, hearty stews, ribs, and dark, rich sauces.”

My Review:  Pretty ruby in the glass. Dish soap and berries on the nose.  Very pleasant palate of red and black fruits with floral notes. Hate to say, this is almost Pinot Noir-like with fruits that are more cherry and red.  September 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Melon de Bourgogne, Chalone AVA, 12.5% ABV, $30 (#896)              

Winemaker’s Notes: “N/A”

My Review: Hay in the glass. Citrus notes on the nose. A little buttery caramel on the palate. Overheard:  Super bright.  Done in steel with a little time in oak. November 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Fox Creek Vineyard Chardonnay, Carmel Valley, 13% ABV, $36 (#897)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright, intense Chardonnay from a private property in Carmel Valley.  Barrel fermented and aged 16 months in cooperage.

“Tasting Notes:  Amazingly balanced!  Toasted walnut and brioche French toast lead the way to a wine with a bright acidity and creamy layers of fruit including baked apples and grilled pineapple.  Baking spices and clove finish with a lingering, balanced acidity.”

My Review: Light golden color. Toast on the nose. Delicious tropical flavors on the palate with buttery notes. Finishes with a lemon twist. November 2022

2021 Paysan Jack’s Hill Chardonnay, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $22 (#898) 

Winemaker’s Notes: “Blended from a collection of five small vineyards at the base of “Jack’s Hill”, in Chualar, CA. The cool climate and distinct iron oxide granite soil provide the foundation for this clean, crisp Chablis inspired Chardonnay. The balance of acidity and minerality shine brightly with each sip. 

“Tasting Notes:  Lemon curd on brioche toast with key lime zest lead the nose and the front palate migrating into flinty undertones of wet gunpowder and a pleasant return to chamomile. Finishes with bright but balanced acidy reminiscent of tart quinine.”

My Review:  Always a favorite, this wine is light golden in the glass.  Strong flavors of pineapple and citrus on the palate. Refreshing. November 2022

2020 Paysan P’tit Pape, Central Coast, 12.8% ABV, $25, (#899)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Our classic Grenache based blend. Old world balance with a California patina. A favorite.

“Tasting Notes:  The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence.   Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme provide a complex compliment to the fruit on the nose.  A distinctly umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”

My Review: Dark ruby color. Cherry and tobacco on the nose. Smooth palate of red and black fruits – very balanced and tasty.  As I understand it, Ian cleverly sourced these grapes from the Santa Clara AVA and Chalone AVA to skirt any smoke taint issues from the 2020 fires in Monterey and Santa Cruz counties. November 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900) 

Winemaker’s Notes: “100% Cabernet Franc.  A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 20 day maceration in open top fermenters. Aged 11 months on lees in neutral barrels and puncheons. Naturally bright and low alcohol.  

“Tasting Notes:  Dusty Earthy notes abound right up front with notes of saddle leather, and interesting green undertones of poblano pepper and tomato leaf.  The translation to the palate is immediately savory with bay laurel and a distinct salinity finishing with dusty tannins reminiscent of Chinon.  This vintage is much more initially integrated than previous iterations.”

My Review: Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose. Lean palate of dark fruit – yet a lighter style of Cabernet Franc.  November 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.2% ABV, $48 (#901)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Franc fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Franc. This full-bodied wine is bursting with lush, dark red berries and subtle lavender and hints dried herbs on the nose. Playing with balance, acidity pops off structured tannins finishing with that traditional peppery edge.

“Tasting Notes:   The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs.  Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”

My Review: Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit. In a surprise move, I decided to take one home! November 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Syrah/Mourvedre/Grenache, Chalone AVA, 13.2% ABV, $42 (#902)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A blend of three distinct Chalone vineyards, with lots of whole cluster and meaty, minerals and depth.”

My Review: Dark ruby color. A Grenache nose with cherry notes.  Good structure.  A little chewy and good – showing very well. I liked this wine. November 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 13.6% ABV, $42 (#903)

My home wine rack has some design flaws, resulting in this label damage.

Winemaker’s Notes: “From a 3 acre 1989 planting on the historic Graff Family Vineyard in Chalone AVA. Bacon Fat, mud, granite full, meaty, smooth and indulgent.”

My Review: Inky in the glass. Aromas of yeast, a little barnyard, cherry, cranberry, blackberry. Tasty palate of blackberry, black cherry, cranberry with some tobacco and licorice on the finish. December 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904)              

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Sauvingon. 

“Tasting Notes:  The bouquet is rich with dusty, overripe plum, cedar, graphite and hints of pine pitch resin.  This translates to the palate and reveals the iron in the volcanic soil, which becomes present on the back.  Super juicy acidity lingers and melds with mellow tannins creating a velvety finish.”

My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Rich dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. While not like a Napa Cab, this was quite tasty. Grown at 2100′ elevation! November 2022

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

A Plentiful Supply of Central Coast Wines Right at Home

I was thumbing through past issues of Wine Spectator on their way to the recycle bin, hunting for articles and reviews of Central Coast wines. One wine kept jumping out at me – Carol Shelton’s Coquille Blanc from Paso Robles.  I remembered I had the 2020 vintage to write up and thought it might be a perfect time also to share the wine we had at Thanksgiving, the 2016 Calera deVilliers Vineyard Pinot Noir from Mount Harlan in San Benito County. In addition, I’ve had the 2017 Odonata Spiketail (Santa Lucia Highlands) and the 2018 Silvestri Estate Barbera (Carmel Valley) on my list.  The great thing is that all of these wines came from our own wine room. Which is why it is always nice to have a plentiful supply of our very own Central Coast wines right at home!

Today I am presenting 4 Central Coast wines.  Winery notes come from their website or the tasting room, unless otherwise noted. I encourage you to feel free to comment, share what wine you had for Thanksgiving dinner,  or simply “like” this post – engagement is always welcomed!

2020 Carol Shelton Coquille Blanc, Paso Robles, 13.2% ABV, (#873) $27  34% Grenache Blanc 32% Roussanne 22% Viognier 12% Marsanne

I joined Carol Shelton’s wine club during the pandemic and we have been pleasantly surprised!  We met her ages ago at a Zinfandel Advocates and Producers event in Washington, DC. Over the years, our neighbors would share her wines with me. I really don’t know why it took us so long to become part of Carol’s Bunch!

About This Wine: “We originally created the 2008 version of this wine to celebrate our 10th anniversary as a winery in 2010. With the exotic complexity and food friendliness of a white Rhône-style blend, it is a “red-drinker’s white,” a complex alternative to the more one-dimensional white varietal wines like Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc. It is the perfect complement to its namesake shellfish, as well as chicken or pork dishes with buttery-creamy sauces. *Coquille is pronounced “ko-keel” and it is French for shellfish or scallop, like the scallop shells on the Shelton family coat of arms.” 931 cases produced – sold out!

Winery Notes:  “Enticing nose of spicy pears and white peaches, almond paste/marzipan, a touch of honeysuckle perfume. Multi-dimensional (many layers), a hard-to-describe range of aromatics, intriguing, almost mysterious! In the mouth it is crisply dry yet creamy and round and full-bodied, with nice almond paste on crisp-yet-juicy pear fruit…100% barrel fermented, then stirred weekly for 5mos About 10% finished malolactic fermentation…”

My Review:  Classic white Rhône nose, nectarine. Bright acidity balanced by a touch of sweetness. Nice tropical flavors of pineapple and pear on the palate, with a lime twist on the finish. Exceptional for a warm, summer day. September 2022

2016 Calera deVilliers Vineyard Pinot Noir, Mount Harlan AVA, San Benito County, 13.95% ABV, $79 (#874)

I picked up this wine in 2019 when I took my girlfriends to explore Hollister wines.  We took a picnic lunch and sat outside at one of their picnic benches with our flights of wines in the 90+ degree heat. It was a very special time – we were welcomed so warmly and treated so well by the winery staff.  While I am not a big Pinot Noir fan, this one blew me away.

About This Wine: “Calera’s Mt. Harlan Vineyards are located in the Gavilan Mountains 25 miles east of the Monterey Bay. The site was chosen for its limestone soils and ideal climate. At an average elevation of 2,200 feet it is among the highest and coolest vineyard sites in California.” You can read more about Mt. Harlan AVA here: https://www.calwineries.com/explore/regions/san-benito-county/mount-harlan.

Winemaker’s Notes: “Once again, de Villiers has produced one of Calera’s most voluptuous and dark-fruited expressions of Pinot Noir, with alluring aromas of blackberry, cassis and cedary cigar box. On the palate, lush dark berry and black currant flavors are supported by a firm tannic backbone that frames the fruit and carries the wine to a long, energetic finish.” Wine Advocate: 95 points.

Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “Hard cinnamon candies, cherry juice, pomegranate extract and a touch of balsamic vinegar combine for sharp, nose-tickling aromas on this organically grown wine from pioneering vintner Josh Jensen. The flavor-forward palate explodes with dark fruits, noticeable tannins and solid acidity, showing allspice, Vietnamese coffee and black tea elements.” Matt Kettmann, July 2015

My Review: Beautiful ruby in the glass. Soft berry and dark plum on the nose. Nice juicy palate with some bitter tannins/tobacco on the finish. December 2022

2017 Odonata Spiketail, Hook Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 14.5% ABV (#875)  60% Syrah, 40% Grenache

We picked up this 2017 vintage with the rest of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod during our first visit to Odonata in 2021 when we got their shortly before closing time.  We revisited with our daughter in 2022 as the single wine tasting stop, which I would highly recommend. Eric hosted us both times and shared much information on the wines, always appreciated. You can learn more at the Odonata website.

Winery Notes: “Offering copious aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, raspberry, strawberries, licorice and roasted herbs. Bright acidity, beautiful density, and full-bodied opulence.” 120 cases produced.

My Review: Rich, dark ruby in the glass. Dark berry jam on the nose. Low key palate of jammy berry flavors – this is one delicious wine. June 2022

2018 Silvestri Estate Barbera, Carmel Valley, 15% ABV, $50 (normally $75) (#876)

I picked up this wine in August 2021 while doing a birthday wine tasting afternoon with a key Decanting Monterey Wine Pod member.  As I recall, they did not have it open for tasting, but I had recalled really liking this wine in the past.  Their tasting room is small yet very welcoming – I miss their COVID parklet!

About This Wine: “Barbera is a red grape varietal originating from the Piedmont region of Northwestern Italy. Our small block of Barbera, which is the first planting of this varietal in Carmel Valley, was added to the vineyard to honor the Silvestri family heritage. It’s position on a warm southern facing slope allows this varietal to mature and ripen to its fullest potential before harvest.  With the influence of French oak barrel fermentation and maturation our Barbera exudes a deep richness and complexity that helps balance the grape’s high acidity.” 462 cases produced.

Winery Tasting Notes:  “Black cherry, dried strawberry and plum aromas blend through to like flavors and move on to full, soft tannins with sufficient acidity. A more refined yet full-flavored Barbera.”

My Review:  Inky in the glass. Mocha, dark berries and alcohol on the nose. Very cherry on the palate. Crushed cranberries and berries linger on the lively palate. September 2022

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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I Brand & Family Release Party: Great People, Diverse Wines, Tasty Food, & Eclectic Music – a Fun Time for All!

I was tipped off by our Wine Pod partners that I Brand was having a release party in late June – the first one since COVID made its unwelcome arrival in Monterey County.  We made a quick plan to carpool there.

We have been to several past release parties where members and fans get to sample newly-released good wine, paired appetizers, and great music.  In short, really fun.  There were a lot of wines to try on this Sunday – some on the release menu – plus a number of library wines hidden in between.  It was kind of overwhelming – in a good way!  I felt rushed at first – and then just slowed down and got in the groove. We enjoyed the sliders, the pizzas, and the gourmet popsicles!  And more wine.  I truly appreciated the library wines, as a great counterbalance to the new releases.  These wines demonstrated the staying power of Ian’s wines – and made the case for holding onto more of his wines – which are so tempting to consume right away. Thank you so much, Ian, Heather, and the rest of the I Brand Family, for making this event possible once again.

I have 14 wines to present to you today from across all 3 labels of I Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan – most tasted at the release party. I have presented the 2 Grenache wines before. And I added in a Syrah from our private collection. There was a lot going on at this event and we were moving a bit quickly, so I didn’t get the detailed tasting notes I might usually capture. I did go back to the tasting room in July to polish up a few of my notes – where I also got to taste the 2016 52-month Chardonnay – a bonus review for us at the very bottom of this post! Unless otherwise specified, winemaker’s notes come from the winery tech sheets or notes online.

2021 Piquette Nat, Arroyo Seco AVA, 7.4% AVA, $18 (#780)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A perfect summer sipper. Our Piquette Nat from California is Col Fondo process, an easy drinking blend of organic Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc and hibiscus flowers.”

My Review: Made from Sauvignon Blanc and hibiscus flower, this looks like a Brut rose, smells like licorice, and, to me, tastes yeasty like a fruity beer. Very popular and different. June 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, San Benito County, $30 (#781)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Ranier cherries and lemon-thyme on the nose. Pink grapefruit and cara-cara orange lead the attack on the palate. Lingering tannin structure balanced with medium acidity and distinctive minerality contribute to a bright and festive Summer glass, perfectly suited for a wide array of food pairings.”

My Review:  An orange wine – the wax on the bottle is a huge hint!  Year over year, this is an excellent wine, light on the palate, crisp and tasty. We like this wine. June 2022

2021 La Marea Alternate Cut Albariño, Kristy Vineyard, Monterey County, $30 (#782)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Green pears, lanolin, almond blossom and brioche on the nose. Tart mango and honeysuckle lead the attack on the palate. Mild tannins balanced with mellow acidity contribute to a well-rounded white with a complex bouquet.”

My Review: Honeysuckle and citrus rind on the nose. Slightly funky palate of buttermilk and citrus rind, with a lingering creamy finish. The alternate cut makes for a heavier mouthfeel to this ever so slightly sweet Albariño.  June 2022

2014 Le P’tit Paysan L’Apiculteur Cedar Lane Vineyard Viognier, Arroyo Seco AVA, $42 (#783)

Winemaker’s Notes from wine.com: “Late ripening Viognier from the alluvial benches above the Arroyo Seco River fermented in a combination of stainless steel, neutral barrels and twice used barrels. Soaring honeysuckle aromas, flavors of pear and crushed stones, partial malolactic fermentation for focus and composition.”

My Review: This “library” Viognier was a bonus wine – this is an excellent representation of Central Coast Viognier – honeysuckle yet lean. The age on this bottle made it more complex and interesting. June 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, Paicines, San Benito County, $30 (#784)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Jasmine flower and lilac on the nose. Dried apricot and quince lead the attack on the palate. Medium to full body finishes with notes of bergamot.” 133 cases produced

My Review:  Another atypical varietal that Ian likes to work with.  This is the second vintage of this wine that I have tried. This one is really special – a funky, earthy nose, followed by a light and tasty palate, especially after tasting the library Viognier. June 2022

2021 Le P’tit Paysan Sauvignon Blanc, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco, 13.7% ABV, $24 (#785)

About LPP Sauvignon Blanc : “Paysan Sauvignon Blanc comes from Zabala Vineyard – located on a large holding on the Arroyo Seco floodplains that was part of land granted to the Zabala family before California’s statehood. It was first planted in the 1970s and has grown to encompass over 1000 acres. Zabala Vineyard is one of the rockiest vineyard I Brand works with, full of what is locally known as ‘Greenfield Potatoes’, which are the rather inedible round river stones that dominate the soil and have been collected into piles and walls at every property in the basin. This vineyard is located directly in the path of the daily Salinas Valley winds, which control sugar development and retain natural acidity. Certified organic grapes.”

Winemaker’s Notes: “The bouquet is an explosion of white peaches, gooseberries and perfumy passionfruit. This translates over to the palate with more gorgeous and concentrated white peach bursting to the front and evolving into hints of trailside strawberry. Bright acidity. Crisp, tart and refreshing. Lingering finish that has a subtle creaminess returning to tropical passionfruit.” 145 cases produced

My Review: The LPP Sauvignon Blanc comes from one of my favorite vineyards in Arroyo Seco. Very pale in the glass. Yummy butterscotch and tropical notes on the nose. A flavorful palate dominated by lime cloaked in honeysuckle, with a citrusy, buttery finish. Very balanced and tasty. June 2022

2019 Le P’tit Paysan Jacks Hill Chardonnay, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $20 (#786)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright, with orchard fruit giving way to an intense minerality. The wine is produced predominantly from a few vineyards at the base of Jack’s Hill, planted on the distinct iron oxide granite that dominates the east side of the Salinas Valley, directly east of Sleepy Hollow North.”

My Review: From our home collection. Pale golden in color. Tropical bouquet of pineapple and honeydew. Palate brimming with soft pineapple, with citrus notes. This is one of my favorite central coast everyday Chardonnays – def not buttery, oaky. June 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Pinot Noir, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County, 13.67% ABV, $36 (#787)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Smoked chestnuts leading into dark cherry-cola on the nose. Ripe red fruits abound in the form of Bing cherries and Santa Rosa plum. Light body with very mellow tannin structure and soft glycerin finish which lingers and fades into petrichor.” 62 cases produced

My Review: Translucent, dark ruby in the glass.  Dark cherry on the nose and very smooth and tasty dark cherry on the palate. I prefer this to the previous vintage! June 2022

2014 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, San Antonio Valley, 13.8% ABV, $42 (#788)

89 points – Wine Enthusiast : “Dried herbs, elderberries, peppercorns and a strong streak of gamy meat show on the nose of this bottling, which is less dense and more nuanced in style than many other Petite Sirahs. The gamy element extends to the palate, giving complexity to the black fruits and sticky tannins.” Matt Kettmann 6/2018

My Review: The grapes for this library wine come from Pierce Ranch – and this is a delicious wine.  Another reason to hold your I Brand wines. I would rate this higher than Wine Enthusiast did back in 2018. One of the wines I took home with me from this tasting! June 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Mourvèdre, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 12.4% ABV, $45 (#789)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Saddle leather, and ripe huckleberries on the nose. Wild blueberries lead the attack on the palate transitioning into gorgeous and concentrated red ddelicious apple notes contributing to a bright and lingering finish. Medium to light body with pronounced yet balanced tannins finishes with redwood duff.” 34 cases produced

My Review: OK, this was another favorite from the release party.  Light cherry and pepper notes on the nose, following through on the palate. Grapey, smooth and delicious.  One of the finest Mourvèdres I have ever had.  Took one home. June 2022

2019 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 14% ABV, $30 (#635)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Aromas of red fruit about in this ripe and silky grenache with flinty undertones. Bright acidity leads the way on the palate allowing the lovely, light red fruit shine in the form of overripe strawberries and loganberries. California anise, white pepper, and mild tannins finish neatly.” 440 cases produced

My Review:  With grapes from Monterey and Santa Clara, this one gets the Central Coast label.  A pretty, translucent ruby in the glass.  Cherry, cranberry on the nose.  Dances on the palate with smooth cherry and red currant, with a lingering intensity on the finish. December 2021, June 2022

2014 La Marea Brosseau Vineyard Grenache, Chalone AVA, $68 (#636)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bing cherry, roasting lamb, clay. smoldering dry leaves, sea shells. Soaring aromatics. Palate opens with savory elements: garrigue, cigar tobacco, spearmint, overlaying the unmistakable elegant texture of vineyards planted on calcium-rich soils. Chaparral, menthol, red cherry and cranberry on the finish.” 124 cases produced

My Review:  Ruby in the glass.  Fresh cherry and raspberry on the nose.  This was quite yummy with fresh red fruits on the palate and darker flavors of currant and leather on the finish. These library wines show the staying power of Ian Brand’s wines – we loved them all. A hint to hold them a bit longer. December 2021, June 2022

2021 I Brand & Family Escolle Vineyard Gamay Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, 12.2% ABV, $42 (#790)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Telicherry peppercorn and carraway seed lead the bouquet, evolving into spiced black plum notes. The peppery and spice plum carries over to the palate attack and the finish is short, but exquisitely spicy for a light to medium bodied and chillable red. Pronounced yet balanced tannins. Finishes with notes of California garrigue; think sagebrush, manzanita and mugwort.” 95 cases produced

My Review:  Oh, the Gamay Noir!  What a way to top off the afternoon! Ruby, almost purple in the glass. Very grapey nose. Grapey, smooth, jammy, good!  I took one of these wines home, too! The challenge will be to hold it and not just open it and drink it. June 2022

2018 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, $42 (#791)

Winemaker’s Notes: The Graff Family Vineyard “…is a small 3 acre vineyard planted in 1989 to Syrah, Mourvedre and Melon de Bourgogne. The site has depleted, granitic soils and, combined with the elevation and exposure, it’s a perfect situation for producing deep, funky, expressive American Syrah.” 39 cases produced

My Review:  From our private collection. Dark ruby in the glass. Light cherry on the nose. Red fruits on the palate. This isn’t a huge Syrah – a bit lighter and more elegant, refreshing and tasty. Very nice on day 2.  May 2022

2016 I Brand & Family 52-month Chardonnay, Monterey, 15% ABV (#792)

Winemaker’s Notes: 52-months in a steel tank. Aged in the bottle one year before release. “Delicate & oxidative aromas similar to a beautiful Fino sherry. Palate confirms aromatics.  Nutty entry, candied pineapple & ripe tangerines on initial & mid-palate. Finishes with warm marzipan, toasted cinnamon, anie & cloves. Searing acidity throughout.” 41 cases produced

My Review:  I am not sure I would have guessed this was a Chardonnay. Toasted pineapple notes on the nose and palate, but an almost fortified or Sauternes-like quality on the finish – butterscotch and pineapple.  July 2022

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 6 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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