Tagged: San Benito County

A New Face in the I Brand Tasting Room!

Stop the presses!

I was on the road this spring quite a bit and did not make the tasting room rounds – until late in June, when we went on a tasting streak in a single long weekend!  While I was busy traveling, I sometimes sought the easy post to fulfill the weekly blog. And I have neglected some of the bigger tastings I did in the winter.  As I look back, I recall I did not post my February 2022 I Brand tasting because I had another catchup post in the works. I recently attended their first release party in a couple of years – and realized there were quite a few other wines I needed to write about first. So, I am halting the presses on my more recent flurry of tastings for this catch-up post!

I distinctly remember this tasting – when we met Will for the first time in the tasting room.  It was so nice to put a face with the new name and he warmly welcomed us. We tried to move quickly through the wines, as we were just in the neighborhood and had not planned a full tasting – we got one anyway!

I have 12 wines (zounds!) to present to you today from across all 3 labels of I Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan and spanning 2016-2020. Most of these come from my February tasting, but others were from our private collection. Unless otherwise specified, winemaker’s notes come from the winery tech sheets or notes online.

While the wines speak for themselves, I’d like to include this quote from Ian’s Spring 2022 Winemaker Letter, which hit home why I remain a fan of Ian and his wines.  He talks about his “…fascination with old vineyards and more obscure varieties.” He goes on to say, “To appropriately shepherd the local winemaking industry into its best iteration, there needs to be a semi-cohesive idea of what a region is – there should be an expected balance and flavor profile shared in the wines from the region…As we are able to realize and share our ideas of our terroir, wines from the region will become more valuable, which leads to more value in our community.” You can red more about Ian and Heather Brand and their wines here: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/.

2020 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 12.2% ABV, $30 (#741)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A fresh and delicious ‘orange wine’ from mature, terraced Pinot Gris grapes on the oldest, continually producing commercial vineyard in California.”

My Review: Pale pink in the glass – balanced acidity on the palate. February 2022

2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito County, 13% ABV, $36 (#742)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Old Vine White field blend is a blend of 3 unusual varietals. Orange Muscat, Mission and Palamino.”

My Review:  Straw in the glass and sweet muscat and honeysuckle on the nose.  The palate was not as sweet as the nose predicted, with decent tartness with a light, slightly sweet finish.  Quite refreshing – I kind of liked it! February 2022

2017 Le P’tit Paysan Jacks Hill Chardonnay, Monterey, 12.5% ABV, $22 (#743)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A pure, fresh, minerality driven, Chablis like Chardonnay blend from Jacks Hill on the Central Coast…Blended from a collection of five small vineyards at the base of “Jack’s Hill”, in Chualar, CA…planted on the distinct iron oxide granite that dominates the east side of Salinas Valley, directly east of Sleepy Hollow North. Bright, crisp and clean with orchard fruit giving way to an intense minerality.”

92 points – Wine Enthusiast: “This bottling by Ian Brand always packs bang for the buck, but he really nailed it in the 2017 vintage. Clean and delicate aromas of Asian pear, lemon rind and edgy chalk lead into a racy, crisp and tightly wound palate. Flavors of grapefruit, nectarine, blanched almond and sea salt are delicious.” *Editors’ Choice* Matt Kettmann (2/2019)

My Review: Pale yellow in color.  Honeydew melon on the nose.  Honey and gardenia on the palate, with lime notes on the finish.  April 2022.

2018 Le P’tit Paysan Jacks Hill Chardonnay, Monterey, 13% ABV, $22 (#744)

90 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Tight and brisk aromas of lemon peel and sandstone come through on the nose of this always fairly priced bottling. It’s soft on the palate in texture, but a wet stone minerality and lemon juice acidity provide tension, with dried pear and orange peel flavors showing as well.” Matt Kettmann

My Review: A touch leaner than previous vintages with a little acidity on the finish. February 2022

2019 La Marea and 2017 Besson Old Vines Grenache – Side by Side!

2019 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 14% ABV, $30 (#745)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Fresh, medium bodied Grenache from three rocky vineyards averaging over 50 years of age.”

My Review:  A muddy ruby, richer in color than othis other Grenaches – almost purple.  Good cherry fruits on the palate. February 2022

2017 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard Old Vines Grenache, Santa Clara County, $42 (#746)

94 points – Wine Enthusiast: “Sage-oil, tea-leaf and geranium notes meet with dried strawberry and rose petal on the spicy, earthy nose of this bottling. The palate is a mix of dried flowers and rocky minerality, with flavors of gravel, dried currant and more tea leaf making for a fascinating sip of century- old vines.” Matt Kettmann

My Review: Light, translucent ruby in color, but richer, more tannic flavors.February 2022

2016 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard Old Vines Grenache, Santa Clara County, 14% ABV, $42 (#747)

Winemaker’s Notes: “A delightful and balanced expression of the Piedmontese white from the calcium laced gravels of the Vista Verde Vineyard in San Benito County.”

My Review: Dark, translucent ruby in color. Dark berries and smooth tannins on the palate.  IMHO, one of his best Grenache wines. March 2022

2018 I Brand & Family Grenache/Syrah, Chalone AVA, 13.8% ABV, $42 (#748) 72% Grenache, 28% Syrah

My Review: Ruby in the glass.  Mandarin orange and cherry notes on the nose.  Palate had more heft, complexity than usual.  Hands down one of our favorite of his Grenache-Syrah blends.  May 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.2% ABV, $42 (#749)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Franc fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Franc…Medium to Full-bodied. Lush, dark red berries, with purple lavender and hidden dried herb components, envelope the nose. On the palate, bright acidity, plays against tannic structure. Followed by a burst of dark red fruits, balsamic reduction, and the expected herbal, bay leaf, oregano, dried basil, with touches of a peppery edge on the finish.” 109 cases produced.

My Review: Lean, a bit austere with musty flavors. February 2022 February 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines, San Benito County, 12.4% ABV, $30 (#750)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Reminiscent of old world wine making Bayly Ranch is an etherial expression of Cabernet Franc. Notes of bright berries and mild spices…”

My Review:  Richer, rounder, chewier that the Bates, with cherry and dark berry flavors. Black pepper on the finish. I prefer this wine; my partner prefers the Bates. February 2022

2019 I Brand & Family Fellom Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 14.6% ABV, $75 (#751)

Winemaker’s Notes: “First planted in the 40s and abutting the classic Ridge Santa Cruz Mountain property, Fellom Ranch produces among the most sought after grapes in California…Deep dark purple. Aromas of black current, cherries, clove spice, toasted oak, and cocoa. On the palate, lush & ripe, bramble fruit, enters med-full bodied, supple tannin and acid tension structure. Lovely wine, with pleasure to fill the palate, today, and years to come.”

My Review:  Ruby, purple in the glass. Some chocolate notes on the nose with smooth, rich berries on the palate.  I will do my best to hold this for an appropriate drinking time frame. February 2022

2018 Le P’tit Paysan P’tit Pape Red Rhone Blend, $22 (752)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Our classic Grenache based blend. Old world balance with a California patina. A favorite.”

93 points – Wine Enthusiast: “This blend of 52% Grenache, 36% Syrah and 12% Mourvèdre speaks so strongly to the terroir of the Central Coast as it is loaded from nose to finish with dewy sagebrush, crisp freshness and peppery spice. It begins with aromas of raspberry, pomegranate and herb, then settles comfortably into a firmly textured palate of oregano, pepper, sandalwood and more red fruit.” Matt Kettmann

My Review:  We tasted this wine out of order. Lovely, light, lean yet good. Always a favorite. February 2022

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 6 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Odonata Plays “Mystery Wine” with Decanting Monterey!

A year ago, we went to Odonata with the more senior part of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod.  We have been saying ever since that we needed to go back when it was the only tasting of the day.  While we failed to get the senior partners together, we were able to go back with our daughter, a Decanting Monterey junior plank holder, in March. 

We started with a challenging game of corn hole; then we got down to business.  Eric hosted us once again and proceeded to march us through their wines.  Meanwhile, some lovely women, who just wanted a glass of rosé, sat at a nearby table.  Eric had no rosé to offer and instead gave them a proper wine education and tasting, while continuing to pour for us.  He shifted his approach with us to a game we like to call “mystery wine” – guess the varietal. Our tasting took 2 hours and we left with a case of wine, including some for my upcoming Northern Virginia AWS wine class! Thank you so much for the industry recognition – it is deeply appreciated!

These lovely women became an extension of our afternoon tasting at Odonata!

About Odonata: “Odonata offers an eclectic selection of wines from grapes sourced from our Estate and other local vineyards. The focus is quality and sustainability throughout the wine making process from the selection of the Vineyards, through production, to the finished product. The Vineyards are farmed organic, or SIP (sustainable in practice) Certified.

“While production is small by industry standards, the number of wines is extensive. This small lot principle enables Odonata to focus on consistent high-quality instead of high-volume.

“With our small lot production only a selection of our wines are available at any one time and these are frequently changing, so be sure to purchase them before they are gone.”

Today I am reviewing 15 wines, including 1 previously reviewed. Winery notes come from their webpage above, where you can also purchase their wines.

2018 Odonata Sparkling Riesling, Tondre Grapefield, Santa Lucia Highlands, 12% ABV, $38 (#661)

Winery Notes: “This fizz is floral with a subtle spiciness on the nose, pretty fruit in the mouth with tiny bubbles. This sparkler is fun as a pre-dinner delight or paired with exotic food like Thai, Sushi, etc… Bubbles are for every day, enjoy!”

My Review: Golden in the glass. Apple cider and grilled pineapple on the nose. A bit of yeastiness tamps down the sweetness of the apple. March 2022           

2020 Odonata Chardonnay, Gularte Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 14% ABV, $25 (#662)             

Winery Notes: “Farmed with the Silacci family right down the street from the winery.  This is fruit is crisp apple supported by a generous boost of new French oak.  California inspired Chardonnay, with a crisp mineral core.”

My Review: Straw in the glass. Nice tropical notes on the nose.  Up front oak mellowed out into a nice wine with a punch of lime flavors on the mid-palate.  March 2022

2019 Odonata Pinot Noir, Silacci Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 12.6% ABV, $32 (#663)

Winery Notes: “Cherry fruit, cola, and subtle spices on the nose. Dense forrest floor, and hints of wild strawberry on the palate.”

My Review: Bright cherry red in the glass. The palate reveals the fruit with berry flavors.  A bit metallic. Tannins balance the red fruit with peppery spices.   March 2022

2018 Odonata Pinot Noir, Falcon Hill, Santa Cruz County, 14.1 ABV, $42 (#664)                                   

Winery Notes: “This wine is elegant with viscous cherry, subtle spice and pleasurable texture.”

My Review: Darker cherry in the glass.  While light in body, richer in flavor across the board than the previous wine. Red cinnamon notes. We preferred this wine. March 2022   

2017 Odonata Black Darter, 13.5% ABV, $28 (#665)   86% Grenache, 14% Syrah      

 Winery Notes: “An exquisite nose of raspberries and spice that draw you into the glass. This wine was fermented with 14% whole cluster, to create complexity and better mouthfeel!”

My Review: Bright, rich ruby in the glass.  We are now heading toward medium bodied reds. Very balanced on the palate with cherry flavors.  We liked this wine. March 2022                

2019 Odonata Cote du Denis Malbec, et, Hollister, San Benito County, 13.5% ABV, $28 (#666)    94% Malbec, 4% Viognier     

Winery Notes: “Malbec co-fermented with 4% Viognier. Adds balanced tannin, and pushes floral notes!”

My Review: So pretty in the glass with vibrant red and purple colors (cranberry and plum). Plum and currant ( grape Bubblelicious) on the nose. Juicy and smooth on the palate. My favorite wine of the day. March 2022      

2017 Odonata Grenache, Hook Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, 14.5% ABV, $28 (#317) 

Winery Notes: “Vibrant and lively on the nose with alluring nuances of fresh flowers and berry fruits. On the palate you’re treated with pepper herbs, fresh minerality and delightful tannin. The richness and depth of this Grenache erupts with every sip, while conveying texture and balance.”

My Review: Cherry and berry flavors wrapped in cinnamon, cardamom, and allspice flavors. March 2022                                                                                                                                                               

2018 Odonata Sangiovese, 14.2% ABV (#667)                 

Winery Notes: “Strawberries, hints of cinnamon, leather and earth. The palate is round with balanced acidity and tannin.”

My Review: Deeper red in the glass. Very berry with spice and coffee on the nose. Dry on the palate with cranberry, cherry, some tartness. Lean.  This was Cassandra’s favorite wine. Of course – she loves a good Chianti! March 2022

2019 Odonata Syrah, Hook Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, 13.4%, $32 (#668)           

Winery Notes: “Cool climate Syrah! Spicy, dense, chewy tannins with black fruit dominate the mouth feel, while the finish lingers with you softly and gently, urging further exploration.”

My Review: Rich, dark ruby in the glass. Warm dark berries on the nose. Rich berries, mocha, and spice on the finish with a touch of earth. Right up my alley. Selected for one of my classes. March 2022                                                                                                                                                         

2019 Odonata Syrah, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, 14.5% ABV (#669)                                                 

My Review: Rich, dark ruby in the glass.  Some sweetness on the nose with berry and spice notes. Smooth berries on the palate. I liked this one, too. March 2022                                                                                   

2019 Odonata Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.4% ABV, $49 (#670)                       

Winery Notes: “Dark and inky in color! The nose is filled with perfumed fruit, spicy blackberry, cassis, and cedar. This wine is rich, fun and vibrant on the palate. Flavors of wild cranberry, licorice, black fruit and finishes with a fresh mouthfeel. With a little more aging the youthful fruit will drop out and bring forward a polished tannic structure.  Enjoy now with a 30 minute decant or age it for the next 10 years!”

My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Lean Cabernet notes on the nose and some cinnamon on the palate. March 2022

2017 Odonata Petite Sirah, Machado Creek Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley, 14% ABV, $28 (#671)        

Winery Notes: “Opulent fruit, herbs and spices on the nose. The palate is perfectly balanced with loads of dark fruit, tannin and graphite.”

My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Some mocha on the nose.  A big, rich, smooth palate with a dry finish. March 2022                                                                                                  

2018 Odonata Barrel Select, Hook Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, (#672)   Syrah, Grenache      

My Review: Rich red ruby in color. Berry on the nose. Very spicy with tangerine notes on the palate. March 2022                                                                                                                   

2016 Odonata Cabernet Sauvignon, Montebello Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains (#673)       Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot       

My Review: Rich red ruby with some purple in color. Fresh and some vegetal notes. March 2022                                                                                        

Odonata Late Harvest Zinfandel, Wellong Vineyard, San Antonio Valley, 19% ABV, $25 (#674)        

Winery Notes: “Punched down gently throughout the cold soak, fermentation, and maceration totaling 7 days. Pressed to a stainless tank where we added 20 gallons of high-proof alcohol to stop the fermentation and leave this wine with 8% sugar. Finished wine: 19.12% alc., aged in 33% New French Oak                                     

“Sweet berry, mocha, and touch of sage. This is a very balanced expression of Dessert Wine, which allows it to be enjoyed on its own or added to any dessert you like!”

My Review: Ruby in the glass. Sweet raspberry and blackberry flavors with some chocolate.  Not cloying, just a delicious dessert wine. Would go great with vanilla bean ice cream. March 2022                                                                                     

Visit the Odonata Tasting Room: “Nestled at the northern edge of the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA and at the beginning of the River Road wine trail lies the Odonata winery and tasting room. We hope you will stop by our tasting room and sample a selection of our current releases. We are open 7 days a week and no appointments are necessary.” Open Daily 11 am – 5 pm.  Located at 645 River Road, Salinas CA, 93908.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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“Shopping” at Home Yields Interesting I Brand Varietals and Vintages!

I’ve been saving up these reviews for a single I Brand post. One of the things I really like about Ian’s wines is his boldness to expose us to varietals which we might not even have heard of – and to do them very well. The Arneis in this post is one of those – the Melon de Bourgogne was another we really enjoyed. And we tend to enjoy the Grenache wines – a varietal lighter than our normal fare, but one I Brand also does very well. His Cabernet Francs fascinate me – different in style from each other and always just a tad leaner than some of the big Cab Francs we tend to get around here. We’ve also been digging deep into our wine room and found some hidden treasures, like the 2012 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah. 

I have 6 wines to present to you today from across all 3 labels of I Brand & Family, La Marea and Le P’tit Paysan and spanning 2012-2020 and covering Santa Cruz, Monterey and San Benito counties. Unless otherwise specified, winemaker’s notes come from the winery tech sheets or notes online.

2020 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito County, 12.7% ABV, $30 (#633*)

We invited our neighbor over to our sunny patio on this January day and decided to try this Arneis, a varietal I did not know! 

Winemaker’s Notes: “A delightful and balanced expression of the Piedmontese white from the calcium laced gravels of the Vista Verde Vineyard in San Benito County.”

My Review: Pale golden yellow in the glass. Bosch pear with orange blossom and lime notes on the nose. Fresh and flinty, it opened up to be a lovely wine with round, flavors of grilled pineapple with a touch of olive juice and lime on the finish. An excellent summer patio wine. January 2022

2019 I. Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 11.5% ABV, $30 (#634*)

I needed an orange wine for a Halloween wine class and chose this one from my wine room!  Ian Brand’s orange wax was a great tip that this would be the right wine for our purpose!  I reviewed the 2018 vintage in this blog in December 2020 here: https://decantingmonterey.com/i-brand-family-inching-our-way-to-central-coast-wines/. 

K&L Wine Merchants has a good writeup of this wine, including a Wine Enthusiast review of 92 points here: https://www.klwines.com/p/i?i=1488589

My Review: Light orange like a lollipop in the glass.  Very smooth on the palate with a pleasant tartness on the finish.  We liked this wine. October 2021

2017 La Marea Grenache, Central Coast, 13% ABV, $30 (#635*)

Winemaker’s Notes from the Wine Crush: “This Grenache is mostly sourced from Monterey; it is de-stemmed and stainless steel fermented. The color is extremely pale ruby with, clean ripe aromas of both black and red cherry. Notes of sarsaparilla and a delicate restrained earthy quality.”

Wine Enthusiast – 91 points: “Light in the glass and almost rusty in color, this bottling begins with aromas of dried cherry juice, chaparral spice and toasted sage. Lightly bodied on the palate, it’s an herbal display, showing thyme, sagebrush and toasted nuts, with touches of rosewater and red currant.” Matt Kettmann, 10/2020

My Review: A pretty, translucent ruby in the glass.  Cherry, cranberry on the nose.  Dances on the palate with light cherry and red currant, with a lingering intensity on the finish. December 2021

2014 La Marea Grenache, Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 14.1% ABV, $38 (#636*)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Bing cherry, roasting lamb, clay. smoldering dry leaves, sea shells. Soaring aromatics. Palate opens with savory elements: garrigue, cigar tobacco, spearmint, overlaying the unmistakable elegant texture of vineyards planted on calcium-rich soils. Chaparral, menthol, red cherry and cranberry on the finish.”

My Review: Ruby in the glass.  Fresh cherry and raspberry on the nose.  This was quite yummy with fresh red fruits on the palate and darker flavors of currant and leather on the finish.  September 2021

2018 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.3% ABV, $42 (#637*)

About Bates Ranch: “Bates Ranch, the least known of the holy trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites in the Santa Cruz Mountains…located in the extreme southeastern end of the appellation, on Redwood Retreat Road… We are honored to receive the fruit from half of a small block of Cabernet Franc planted in 1978 for this bottling. Soils in this section of the vineyard are the red Franciscan series of volcanic influenced sedimentary rocks that runs along the eastern side of the Santa Cruz Mountains.”

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Medium to Full-bodied. Lush, dark red berries, with purple lavender and hidden dried herb components on the nose. On palate, bright acidity, plays against tannic structure.  Followed by a burst of dark red fruits, balsamic reduction, and the expected herbal, bay leaf, oregano, dried basil, with touches of a peppery edge on the finish.”

K&L Wine Merchants has a good writeup of this wine, including a Wine Enthusiast review of 92 points here: https://www.klwines.com/p/i?i=1488589

My Review: Dark ruby in color.  Red fruits on the nose.  Smooth and fresh, with a medium palate of raspberry, cherry and plum. This is a lighter, more delicate Cab Franc – a great food wine.  January 2022

2012 Le P’tit Paysan Petite Sirah, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $22 (#638*)

Wine Enthusiast – 87 points: “Ian Brand’s stab at this grape shows a lot of black rock minerality and bloody meats on the nose, layered across blueberry syrup and sour cherry elements. The palate is much lighter than other takes on this varietal, showing menthol-laced flavors of blackberries and tobacco.” Matt Kettmann, June 2015

My Review: Inky ruby in the glass.  Dark plum and blueberry on the nose.  Soft blueberry and blackberry fruit on the palate, enveloped by a licorice finish.  October 2021

The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 6 pm.  Reservations are recommended – more information here.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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2021 Wrap Up #1: from Contra Costa to Santa Maria!

When I reduced my posts to once a week and started hitting the tasting rooms, I didn’t realize how far behind I might get! I’ve decided to present some of these single wines tasted from August to November over the next few weeks to close out 2021.  Today I am presenting 7 of them from outside Monterey County, in the order of tasting date.  Next week I’ll have a collection of Monterey County wines/wineries to close out 2021. Starting in January, I’ll be back to winery tastings with the occasional one-off wines.

PLease share this blog with your family and friends – the more the merrier! If you have not yet subscribed to my weekly blog, you can enter your email at the very bottom right of this page – then confirm it from your email. I promise no selling of your address, just my weekly post delivered straight to you. And I encourage your comments – maybe you know a winery I should check out. Also, feel free to share back what local wines you are enjoying!

2015 Donati The Immigrant, Paicines, San Benito County, 14.5% ABV, $35 (#555*)

From the Donati Family Vineyard Website: “Albino Donati immigrated to the United States from Italy in 1907.  Just like many others who came to America, he arrived with a commitment to create a better life for his family. His hard work, determination, and perserverance have created footsteps for our family to follow for generations.  The creation of “The Immigrant” is in honor of his legacy.”

Wine Enthusiast – 89 points: This bottling is very shy on the nose, offering tight boysenberry and wet gravel aromas with patience. The palate is a bit flat as well, but eventually delivers flavors of baked cherry and baking spice, held together by tense tannins. MATT KETTMANN 12/2018

My Review: Ruby in the glass. Mellow berries on the nose. Very smooth on the palate, nice berries, cedar and mint.  This is one of those super smooth reds I could just keep drinking. I would have given it a much higher score – in the 92-point range. August 2021

2019 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant, Central Coast, 13.5% ABV, $16 (#556*)

Wine class chose the varietal Cinsault, intending a foreign wine.  I found this Bonny Doon wine at Whole Foods in Washington DC.  My notes say I paid $23 for it, but it is generally available for less than that! 

Winemaker’s Notes from the bottle: “In 1954 the mayor of Châteauneuf-du-Pape was quite perturbed and apprehensive that UFOs are flying cigars might do damage to their vineyards. So right thinking man all, they passed a legal ordinance prohibiting such landings. The ordinance has worked well, as there have been no such landings since the adoption of this far sighted legislation. The stellar composition of our cigar Volant call flying cigar” contains 56% Grenache 30% since so 13% Sarah and 1% petite Sirah.”

Wine Enthusiast – 93 points & Best Buy:  A delicate color in the glass, this blend of 56% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 13% Syrah and 1% Petite Sirah pops with bright raspberry, crushed rock, turned earth and lilac aromas on the nose. The palate is tense with rocky edges and yet zesty with pomegranate and strawberry flavors. MATT KETTMANN

My Review: Ruby, somewhat translucent in the glass. A little sulfur on the nose upon opening. Cherry and leather on the palate. Nice on a hot DC evening. August 2021

2017 DeRose Dry Farmed Zinfandel, Cedolini Vineyard, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 15.1% ABV, $45 (#557*)

I picked up this wine back in 2019 and finally had the chance to try it at home.  You can read more about DeRose from a previous post here:  https://decantingmonterey.com/derose-dry-farmed-vineyards-in-the-cienega-valley/.

My Review: Beautiful ruby in the glass. Berry jam and crab (shellfish) on the nose. Berry pie on the palate – it’s a berry-o-rama in the mouth, chalky, slightly sweet, slightly ripe or cooked, with a peppery finish. September 2021

2016 Lone Madrone Dry Farmed Zinfandel, Bailey Ranch, Adelaida District, Paso Robles, 13.8% ABV, $43 (#558*)

A DC friend (Scott Gudes) brought this wine from his very first wine tasting in Paso Robles! We had it with our dinner at Poppy Hall – very nice. 

From the label: “David Bailey planted this vineyard on the old family property on Peachey Canyon Road.  This is a head pruned, dry farmed vineyard.  This wine is 100% Zinfandel – old time Paso baby! Yeahh! It is all you might expect and then just a wee bit more.”

My Review: Purple in the glass.  Jammy and spicy on the nose.  Juicy and smooth on the palate.  Opened up nicely to dark berries with an even darker, intense fruit finish.  October 2021

2015 Trinitas Old Vines Petite Sirah, Contra Costa County, 16.2% ABV, $36 (#559*)

I love a good Petite Sirah and found this for $18 at Costco!

From the Trinitas Website:  “This is by no means elegant, its rather a massive hulking bruiser of a wine! In fact, this might be the most decadently textured dry red wine we’ve ever made. Which doesn’t surprise us. 2015 was not only the third year of the drought, but also the vines we source from in Contra Costa County are mainly planted in sandy soils, so they are well drained and receive much more heat. Trust us, this all shows in the wine! This deep, dark-purple elixir has skyrocketing aromas of baked blueberries, blackberries, and toasted vanilla. With just one sip, its heavenly texture completely saturates the palate with baked berry cobbler and vanilla bean flavors that are lifted by dusty tannins as it trails off into a very persistent finish. This is so opulent, juicy, and scrumptious, that it’s nearly impossible to resist. Which is probably why Wine Enthusiast awarded it 93 points and Editor’s Choice!”

My Review: Inky in the glass with aromas of smooth dark berries.  Very dark blueberry and blackberry fruit on the palate with cassis and black currant on the finish.  Very smooth.  Great value for the flavor – I would buy this again!October 2021

2017 Turley Zinfandel, Duarte Vineyard, Contra Costa County, 15.3% ABV, $33 (#560*)

From the Turley website: “This wine is an homage to Joe Duarte, a prominent grape grower in Contra Costa who first introduced Turley to the incredible vineyards of the area. The wine is comprised of fruit from the turn-of-the-century Evangehlo, Mori, and Salvador vineyards, planted between 1890 and 1960.Thanks to the sandy soils and impressive age of the vines, the wine has some of the softest, silkiest tannins we’ve ever seen in a Zinfandel.”

My Review: Very dark ruby in color.  Smoke and plum on the nose.  Jammy brambleberry with spice on the palate.  A spicy finish with a touch of tobacco. If you stumble on a Turley Duarte, pick it up – I usually recommend decanting Turley wines. October 2021

2015 The Ojai Vineyard Syrah, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley,13.5% ABV, $45 (#561*)

The Ojai Vineyard Tasting Notes: “Aromas come on with many of the usual suspects from Bien Nacido—cured meat, purple flowers, rock dust—but also a concentrated fruity exuberance that tilts toward liqueur. It drinks with that same balance, coming on with an lavish blanket of dark fruits before gaining pitch and lengthening into a smoky savory beauty, closing out late with those cool-climate notes of herby tapenade, wood smoke and peppery meat crust. The forward feel will have many drink this sooner than later, but for peak rapture age this for several years, at least.” 97 points- Jeb Dunnuck!!

My Review: Berry blast on the nose, followed by some menthol and leather. Super delicious on the palate. Spice on the finish. We followed the Vineyard Aging Recommendations, opening this one before the 2012 Syrah, which is still not ready!  We served this with Thanksgiving leftovers. I loved this wine – probably one of the best Syrahs I have recently consumed. 

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.    

© Decanting Monterey 2023

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Bringing Enz Vineyard Old Vines Mourvèdre to Light!

I remember tasting today’s wine at one of I Brand & Family release parties back in the good old  (pre-COVID) days.  I insisted we pick up a couple.  I first experienced and learned to appreciate Mourvèdre bottled as a single varietal decades ago at Cline Cellars, which was usually our first stop as we entered Sonoma Valley for our wine tasting trips in the ‘80s.    

About Mourvèdre: “If you love Cabernet Sauvignon then Mourvedre is your bag. Mourvedre (aka Monastrell) is a full-bodied and rustic wine that originated in Spain. Rumor has it that the seafaring Phoenicians brought it over as early as 500 B.C. Seemingly obscure, Mourvedre quite often is used as a blending grape in popular wines such as Châteauneuf du Pape. It’s one of the major grapes of the Rhône, along with Grenache and Syrah.” Characteristics: Blueberry, Blackberry, Plum, Black Pepper, Violet, Rose, Smoke, Gravel, Meat  https://winefolly.com/deep-dive/mourvedre-wine/

About the Lime Kiln Valley AVA: “Home only to Enz Vineyards, Limekiln Valley rests inside the Cienega Valley AVA. Limekiln’s soil is sandy, gravelly loam over dolomite and limestone. The summertime average high temperature is 90°F, with a diurnal variation of up to 50°F.” https://winegeeks.com/appellations/162

Enz Vineyards are tucked away below Calera (somewhat-dated map used with permission of geologycafe.com)

About Enz Vineyard: “Enz Vineyard is home to some of the oldest vines in California, dating back to 1887 when they were planted by original homesteaders and were discovered by the Enz family in 1967. Today, these vines are dry farmed and the picturesque vineyard location is tucked away in the valley in a sheltered basin, surrounded by mountains and blocking it from the rest of civilization.” https://www.winc.com/blog/enz-vineyard

2017 I Brand & Family  Old Vines Mourvèdre, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley AVA, 13% ABV (#357*)

Winemaker’s Notes: “Organic. 100% Mourvedre. The Mourvedre block at Enz is just under 8 acres and was planted in the 1920s. It’s a dry-farmed 8 acre block consisting mostly of Mourvedre but also Pais, Carignan, Muscat, Alicante Bouschet on 10 x 10 spacing. Vineyard is at southern base of Mt. Harlan on a 5% incline on north facing slope. Soils are granitic sand with significant limestone and dolomite deposits. The Mourvedre is an isolated genetic line from what’s commonly available in California- the budwood was sourced from original planting in Lime Kiln Valley and brought over from an immigrant from Southern France. Spontaneous fermentation with 50% whole-cluster with stems, other 50% whole berry. Aged on the lees in barrel and puncheon (20% new). 11 months total spent in barrel. Unfined, unfiltered. Bottled and aged 9 months in bottle before release. 125 cs produced.” (found on https://www.vintryfinewines.com/i-brand-family-enz-vineyard-mouvedre-2015.html)

My Review: Ruby in the glass.  Raspberry cherry cola on the nose and a spicy dark raspberry on the palate. So different from most of our big reds and very delicious. May 2021

I Brand’s tasting room in Carmel Valley Village is open for tastings – reservations recommended.  https://www.ibrandwinery.com/visit.  You can also purchase I Brand wines directly from their website at https://www.ibrandwinery.com/!

I Brand & Family: Inching Our Way to “Central Coast” Wines

One of the things Ian Brand is known for is sourcing grapes wherever he can find them to create his wines.  In this blog post, I am reviewing 3 of their I. Brand & Family wines – each from a different county in the Central Coast.  This post prepares us for our next move into Central Coast-labeled wines.

2018 I. Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $30 (#86*)

This unique 2018 Pinot Gris is lovely in color and flavors.

We pulled this wine out in June for a farewell for our daughter as she headed off on another adventure.  I had looked at this bottle earlier in the week for a Rosé class, but there was nothing on it to say it was one.  Except the wax over the cork was orange instead of yellow, as is the case in Ian Brand’s whites.  And that is because Pinot Gris will naturally give you an orange wine.  Who knew? 

From grapelive.com – 92 points: “…Coming from the low yielding terraces at Eden Rift in Cienega Valley, not far from Calera in San Benito County, Brand’s Pinot Gris is wonderfully textural and charming on the palate with juicy peach, red apple skin, citrus and passion fruit leading the way along with a touch of mineral, mountain herb, orange zest, clove, a hint of apple better and wet chalk…”

Wine Enthusiast Review   – 92 points: “With dynamic and complex expressions like this, it’s a wonder why people started stripping the naturally pink hue that Pinot Gris provides. The pinkish orange wine delivers aromas of strawberry sorbet and rosebuds and then opens onto a palate of light raspberry and watermelon. There is ample tannic tension as well.” Matt Kettmann 12/2019

My Review: Bellini pink, peach 🍑 in color, sweet peach on the nose, a balance of sweet and tart mid palate, with a refreshing finish. September 2020

2016 I. Brand & Family Old Vine Grenache, Besson Vineyard, Santa Clara AVA, 14.6% ABV, $42 (#4*)

2016 Old Vines Grenache.

Made from grapes from 100-year old vines, this wine spent about 20 months in 20% new wood barrels, making this a bigger than average Grenache. 

My Review: The 2016 Old Vines Grenache is a beautiful cherry red color with bright fruit on nose and palate.  Very balanced and tasty, with lingering flavors on the palate.  This was more enjoyable on the second day.   Enjoy now or hold for a bit. 

2016 I. Brand & Family Cabernet Franc Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.7% ABV, $42 (#80*)

2016 Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch.

I. Brand & Family makes 2 Cabernet Francs:  a Chinon-style one from Paicines, which I presented at my Fall 2019 Washington Wine & Cheese Seminar, and this one – Bates Ranch – a richer, Bordeaux-style wine from the Santa Cruz Mountains.  They are both terrific wines, yet I much prefer the style of the Bates Ranch. 

From I. Brand via www.unionsquarewines.com: “In our opinion, Bates Ranch is the least known of the holy trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The other two, Monte Bello and Mt. Eden, are among the most revered vineyards in California. We first became aware of Bates Ranch through the amazing, and amazingly ageworthy, 70s and 80s bottlings from classic Santa Cruz Mountain produces like Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyards and Ahlgren Vineyards. Bates Ranch is located in the extreme southeastern end of the appellation, on Redwood Retreat Road. We are honored to receive the fruit from half of a small block of Cabernet France planted in 1978 for this bottling. Soils in this section of vineyard are the red Franciscan series of volcanic influenced sedimentary rocks that runs along the eastern side of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Fermented whole berry with native yeasts and a three week maceration. Aged in a neutral puncheon, a neutral barrel and a once used barrel for 20 months. 94 cases produced.”

My Review: Ian Brand makes his wines lean, lower alcohol and less fruitiness than in most California wines.  What this means is you can get to the true expression of the fruit.  The 2016 Cabernet Franc Bates Ranch is still a somewhat lean Cabernet Franc.  The palate is bold and fruity with bright acidity and cranberry/cherry tartness.  Would love to try it with a cheese plate. 

You can find I. Brand & Family wines directly from the winery – email them at brandfamilywinery@gmail.com. If you want to taste their wines, they are open Thurs. – Sun. 12pm – 6pm  for tastings with limited hosted seatings.  Please contact: hello@ibrandwinery.com to make a reservation.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

Eden Rift: East of Eden, Straddling the San Andreas Fault

Always on the hunt for wines to present in a wine class, I took my girlfriends winetasting in Cienega Valley, south of Hollister in August 2019. Eden Rift was the second winery we visited.  Able to sit at one of their large, outdoor tables on a very hot day, we especially enjoyed their 2016 Terrace and Estate Chardonnays. 

When I heard that the Monterey AWS was hosting a session dedicated to Eden Rift wines, I signed up for a chance to understand their wines in more depth.  Proprietor Christian Pillsbury and winemaker Cory Waller gave us a great overview of Eden Rift wines, its rich history, and even an explanation of the meaning of the name Eden Rift – Eden from East of Eden and Steinbeck’s references to the Galiban Mountains; Rift for the location of the winery and its vineyards, straddling the San Andreas Fault. One of the things that impressed me was how the Eden Rift vintners try to maintain the true authenticity of their fruit – not try to make it be anything it isn’t.  They talked quite a bit about their Old Vines Zinfandel – wasn’t what they might have wanted there, but they weren’t going to rip out vines planted in 1906!

About Eden Rift https://www.edenrift.com/Story : “Located just 20 miles from the Monterey Bay, Eden Rift is the oldest continually producing vineyard in California.  Planted in 1849 by Theophile Vache, the 120-acre estate rests on the San Andreas Faultline and is part of the Cienega Valley AVA.  The winery is located just two miles from famed Pinot Noir producer, Calera whose founder Josh Jensen sought out the limestone and dolomite-rich soils.  Before Josh, early vintners procured some of the first Pinot Noir planting in California at Eden Rift beginning in 1860.  Post prohibition, the focus on Pinot Noir & Chardonnay was lost until Christian Pillsbury acquired the estate in 2016.  Christian assembled a team of young industry professionals starting with winemaker Cory Waller to once again create some of California’s most vivid energetic Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  The extreme terraces and diverse terroir in a single contiguous valley make California’s oldest estate vineyard it’s most exciting new project.”

From the Labels: “Under vine since 1849, Eden Rift Vineyards is located twenty miles from the cold waters of the Monterey Bay.  A mountainside property nestled within the Gabilan Range, the marine-influenced site features decomposed granite and limestone, ideal for the cultivation of estate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.”

I am reviewing 4 Eden Rift wines in this blog post.

2018 Eden Rift Rosé of Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $25 (#175*) 92 points, wine.com

wine.com rated the 2018 rosé 92 points!

Winemaker’s Notes: “This classically made, dry rosé was sourced from two estate blocks; the C block & E block. Comprised of two “Dijon” clones (828 and 777), the Pinot Noir grapes were gently whole-cluster pressed with just enough skin contact to pick up a touch of color. Fermented dry on native yeasts, the was aged in stainless steel for 5 months.  Replete with crisp acidity, the bouquet notes fresh strawberry, lychee, orange rind and mineral aromas.”

wine.com Review: “The 2018 Eden Rift Vineyards Rosé of Pinot Noir is a true-to-type and excellent wine. TASTING NOTES: This wine is fresh, bright, and piquant. Enjoy its aromas and flavors of tart raspberries and strawberries with sliced turkey breast with cranberries on a ciabatta.” 92 points, Wilfred Wong, October 2019

My Review: Light pink in the glass.  Sweet, light cherry, lychee on the nose.  Crisp and refreshing on the palate, with enough flavor and balanced acidity, with a lingering light cherry finish.  I would enjoy this on a warm “front porch” day. October 2020

2017 Eden Rift Estate Chardonnay, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.2% ABV, $42 (#176*)

IMHO, Chardonnay is truly the strong suit of Eden Rift.

Winemaker’s Notes: “A tribute and testament to the vineyard’s natural setting as well as its meticulous farmed Chardonnay vines. This offering was whole-cluster-pressed, barrel-fermented on native yeasts, and aged in 100% French oak barrels (18% new) for 10 months. This well-balanced Chardonnay went through 100% Malolactic fermentation with battonage twice per month for 6 months.”

Wine Enthusiast Review: “Extremely pure and crisp on the nose, this bottling starts with aromas of pure apple and crushed chalk. There is great zip to the sip and sharp flavors of white peach and lime custard that are vibrant and alive. Drink now–2032.”  92 points & Cellar Selection, Matt Kettmann December 2019

My Review: Light in the glass, gentle pineapple and white peach on the nose.  Modest oak and mild citrus on the palate with a lingering twist of lime peel. This wine really opened up and grew into a delicious, bigger yet balanced Chardonnay. 10/2020

2017 Eden Rift Estate Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.2% ABV, $48 (#177*)

wine.com rated the 2017 Estate Pinot Noir 95 points!

Winemaker’s Notes: “Our flagship Pinot Noir – composition of clones and block-specific conditions. Vinification includes 30% whole cluster fermention on native yeasts. Aged 11 months in French oak (20% new), the wine is focused, age-worthy and provides the ultimate “sense of place”…Showing both red-tone and dark fruits, the bouquet features notes of spiced cranberry, wild blackberry, black cherry as well as pomegranate, violets, black tea and chalk-like, minerals notes. Found in the recesses, aromas of cherry pit, vanilla-cream and berry pie. Medium weight.”

Wine Advocate Review: “Grapes for this were harvested September 5, 14 and 21 and the wine aged 10 months in 20% new French oak. Pale ruby, the 2017 Pinot Noir Estate has very pretty scents of gravel dust, fresh cranberries, strawberry-rhubarb, cinnamon stick and dried leaves with notes of tar, dried citrus peel and lilac. It’s light to medium-bodied and restrained but nuanced with a gentle texture and mouthwatering freshness on the bright finish. Such a lovely, lifted style. 2,115 cases produced.”  91 points, Erin Brooks, February 2020

My Review: Translucent cherry in the glass.  Dark berry notes on the nose.  Delicious palate of blackberry and cherry, with much darker, richer fruits coming out as the wine opens up, reflecting the warmth of the 2017 vintage. A little tobacco on the finish, but mostly lingering pleasantness.  Well balanced.   A tasty wine. October 2020

2018 Eden Rift Zinfandel Dickinson Block, Cienega Valley, San Benito County, 14.9% ABV, $45 (#178*)

The 2017 Zinfandel was very berry and enjoyable for what it is.

Winemaker’s Notes: “From the estate’s historic Zinfandel vines that were planted in 1906, this bottling is full of youthful vibrancy rather than austere elegance. Buoyant aromas of boysenberry syrup, nutmeg and mace are ripe but fresh, while the palate’s blueberry-compote, black-pepper and licorice flavors are playful and juicy.”

Wine Advocate Review: “Grapes for the 2017 Zinfandel Estate Dickinson Block, made of 100% Zinfandel, were harvested September 29 and the wine aged 10 months in 28% new French oak. Pale to medium ruby, it has a wonderfully perfumed nose of warm yellow peaches, stone fruit cobbler, blueberry pie and baked boysenberries with gobs of exotic spices in the undercurrent. The palate is light to medium-bodied and surprisingly restrained. It’s light on its feet but still with those technicolor flavor layers, finishing long and lifted. 143 cases produced.” 92 points Erin Brooks, February 2020

My Review: Deep, rich ruby in color.  Berry jam on the nose.  Berry jam on the palate and a lingering finish.  We’ve been tasting this bottle of wine over several days – some days it is like a berry pie and others, retaining the berry jam on the nose with more sophisticated flavors on the palate.  Still drinking well a week later.  I enjoyed this Zinfandel for what it is, without judgment or comparisons.  I would like to see more good Zin coming from Monterey and San Benito counties – so I am glad they are making this effort.  October 2020

Their tasting room is open by appointment.  You can find more information and their reservation link here: https://www.edenrift.com/Taste.

*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

Where the Heck Is Paicines and Why Should You Care?

There I was, happily enjoying getting to know well my Monterey County wines when an interloper started showing up on the labels in “my” tasting rooms – Paicines.  “Where the heck is Paicines?” and “How do you pronounce that?” were my early questions.  First, I saw it on the label of one of Ian Brand’s wines.  Then I saw it in Pessagno and Puma Road tasting rooms in Salinas Valley.  In April 2019, I took a hiking trip to the Pinnacles National Park and we drove through acre after acre of grape vines.  I knew then that something was up – I had to find out.  I challenged myself to create a class of exceptional wines from Paicines.  This wasn’t easy, as there really aren’t that many wineries which call out Paicines specifically on their labels.  But I pulled it off and presented 5 delicious wines to the Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar in the Fall of 2019 – eh…during the Nationals’ final playoff game.  Lesson learned.

Some of the Paicines-designated wines from my wine room.

Paicines AVA – A Prelude

The Paicines AVA is a sub-AVA in San Benito County about 10 miles from Hollister, about an hour south of San Jose and just east of Monterey County.  Today it is rolling vineyards.  What else is there?  It’s kind of in the middle of nowhere, so not much.  The quaint town of Paicines, population 204, and the tiny town of Tres Pinos (population 500).  If you blink, you will miss them.  And I learned it is pronounced “Pie-See-Ness.” 

I did a lot of research on Paicines back in 2019.  Much of this information likely came originally from Donati Family Vineyards website, but their website has changed, so I cannot properly source it.  I still give credit to Donati for the information!

Once known as a hideout for bandit Tiburcio Vásquez and later a bulk brand growing region by Almaden and others, Paicines is now being reclaimed – this time as a high-end grape growing region.  The Paicines AVA covers an area inside a valley, separated from Monterey by the Galiban Mountain range, which is home to the Chalone AVA further south. It is about 17 miles north of Pinnacles National Monument and Park and consists of about 4,500 acres of grape-growing area.

Paicines is in the southeastern corner of the map above (courtesy of Geology Cafe link below)

Warm daytime temperatures and afternoon, cooling breezes that comes in off the ocean, across the Salinas Valley, allowing grapes to mature more slowly, resulting in wines of great character, balance and complexity. Elevation ranges from 500-1,200 feet above sea level and it gets about 12-15 inches of rain annually.

Predominantly sandy soils with gravel and limestone provide good drainage, and deep root systems to access the water in the ground. Combined, the dry heat and the abundance of quartz in the soil creates big, bold wines with hints of spice and minerality.

My next few blog posts will be wines specifically from the Paicines AVA, before I move on to Cienega Valley and the greater San Benito County.

There is a cool (albeit somewhat dated) “San Andreas Fault in the Cienega Valley Wine Tour Route in San Benito County, California” article and map by the Geology Café here:  https://geologycafe.com/fieldtrips/cienega_valley.html.

© Decanting Monterey 2020

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