In July, the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod experienced the best winery tour ever at Bernardus! Last November, at the Marinus dinner, Jim McCabe, assistant winemaker at Bernardus, invited us to come up to the winery in Cachagua for a tour. We finally made it there in July! And I would say the fun wine education aspects of the tour were what made it so special.
Winery notes for this post come from conversations with the winemaker unless otherwise indicated. You can read more about Bernardus on their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
Also, with all the wine events and special tastings we have done, I will be posting twice weekly for a bit to get caught up! My, we have been busy!!
Jim McCabe met us outside where he explained what happens to the grapes from the moment they arrive at the facility. He indicated that harvest is looking 2-3 weeks late this year due to the winter and spring rains. Veraison is a little late, but every really hot, sunny day we get speeds it up. Chemistry and appearance will tell them when to harvest the grapes.
In response to our questions about white grapes, they expect 2-3 tons per acre. They gently press the white grapes to avoid any off flavors. They shoot for 150-170 gallons of juice per ton.
We grabbed our glasses as we moved inside.
THE WINES
We started out tasting some Monterey Chardonnay at the filtration stage, followed by a Pinot Noir at the cold fermentation stage. We then went deep into the barrel room to do more wine education. We examined how different barrel ages affect the wine, how different yeasts influence the flavor profile, and how to recognize and resolve reduction! What fun!
2022 Bernardus Chardonnay, Monterey County (#1065)
We tasted this sample at the filtration stage.
My Review: Light golden. Nice delicious tropical nose. Pineapple and butter. Rich and sweet on the palate with a bright finish, some bitter notes yet nice. July 2023
2022 Bernardus Pinot Noir, Gary’s Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highland AVA, Monterey County (#1066)
This sample was at the cold fermentation stage.
My Notes: Garnet. Cold. Plum and perfume. Tasty palate. Smooth. July 2023
2022 Bernardus Chardonnay, Rosella’s Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highland AVA, Monterey County (#1067)
We compared 2 samples from different aged barrels.
My Notes:
New oak barrels: Buttery, tropical nose with some sulfur dioxide. Rich and viscous on palate with pineapple flavors on the finish. Wow. Big. Delicious. July 2023
3-year-old oak barrels: Faint tropical notes on nose and more sophisticated palate. Leaner yet tasty with more subtle flavors and more acidity. July 2023
2022 Bernardus Chardonnay, Sierra Mar Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highland AVA, Monterey County (#1068)
We compared 2 samples made with different yeasts – and then a combined sample! Wow – we made some wine!!
Winery Notes: Every 2 weeks, they top off the barrels and perform battonage. They expect to bottle 19 barrels of Sierra Mar Chardonnay.
My Notes:
D47 yeast: More acidic on the nose. Citrus notes. Mouthfilling, completely different flavor profile. Explodes on front end. Crushed pineapple a hidden bitterness on the finish. More acidic overall to me.
Montrachet yeast: Totally different. Pale in glass. Butter and mild pineapple on nose. More vanilla and tartness on the palate. Rounder flavors.
Blended samples: Crushed pineapple on the nose. Balanced palate. Burnt caramel on the finish. Very nice.
2022 Bernardus Cabernet Sauvignon, Marinus Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County (#1069)
Winery Notes: A little Hungarian oak. Intended for Marinus red blend.
My Notes: Intense dark ruby in color. Tart jam on nose. Juicy on the palate.
2022 Bernardus Merlot, Marinus Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County (#1070)
Jim had just talked to us about reduction a few moments before we tasted this wine. One of our members identified it right away, so we got to see first hand how to mitigate reduction.
Barrel sample: Rubbery notes. Reduction is starting! Bright and dark raspberry on the palate. Dark and bitter on finish.
Post-copper treatment: Immediately changed flavor: lots of jammy, berry fruit and no reductive flavors. Tasted amazing.
Other fun facts (any of which I could have captured wrong):
They have a small, full-time staff of 8 people, plus contract support for busy times.
In their winemaking, they use French oak barrels for a period of 3 years.
They have some huge, 2000-gallon oak tanks which they can use for Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon, taking the place of stainless tanks.
Grapes from Santa Lucia Highlands vineyards that don’t make the vineyard designate bottlings can then become part of their Santa Lucia Highlands program.
They are elevating their Marinus vineyard. Doing more hand work and replacing some of the old vines.
The label: They are dropping the “B” label and going to a cleaned-up version (see the one on the right below) of the old one for brand recognition.
They also switched cork sources to improve the reliability of their corks. Their “Monterey” line has screw tops.
He showed us a brand new barrel and even let us sniff inside!
They produce 45,000-61,000 cases in an average harvest year.
And, finally, examine your spit after drinking Cabernet Sauvignon – it might surprise you. (But none of us can remember why…)
Tasting Bernardus Wines: Their tasting room, located at 5 West Carmel Valley Road, is open every day! Reservations are not required. You can see more information and book a tasting here or email tastingroom@bernardus.com or call them at 831-298-8021.
As soon as we got word that the I Brand & Family’s summer releases were available for pickup, we assembled most of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod and head to sunshine in the valley. We were on a mission to taste these wines and make our selections. We were thrilled that Angie was managing the tasting room that day. She encouraged us to compare and contrast varietals from different AVAs side by side. What fun!
SOME FACTS AND FIGURES
Interesting note: According to the I Brand & Family website, the 2023 Summer Release wines are only available to wine club members for the time being! There are a couple of factors at play, both addressed in Ian’s Summer 2023 Winemaker Letter:
1. Climate Change: The small yields of 2020-2022 due to wildfires, storms and hot weather significantly reduced the production for many of our local vintners. According to the latest County of Monterey Crop & Livestock Report, there was a 20% reduction in the value of grapes harvested in 2022, dropping them from 5th place to 7th in crop value in Monterey County. This was due primarily to the end-of-summer heat wave. Fingers crossed for a better 2023…so far, so good…lots of rain, just bring on more warm, sunny days!
2. Demand for Monterey Grapes: As Monterey grapes and winegrowing areas are exposed through the creativity of our local vintners, more and more of the best fruit gets bought up by others. While non-Monterey vintners have historically purchased roughly 50% of our grapes (see Monterey County Vintners & Growers Association Fast Facts), the demand goes up as specific vineyards and varietals get put on the map through the fine work of our local vintners who produce such good quality, good value wines.
THE WINES
Before I get into the new releases, let’s pause for a moment to explore those fun side-by-side tastings accompanied by my notes:
SIDE-BY-SIDE COMPARISONS
We tasted the Cabernet Francs and then the Cabernet Sauvignons side-by-side for some AVA and winemaking style comparisons. Most of these were previously presented in this blog.
Cabernet Francs:
2020 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bayly Ranch, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900): Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose. Lean palate of dark fruit – a bit more like a Pinot Noir. This wine was made in a leaner Chinon style. It was earthier, with a touch of smoke, Kalamata olive.
2020 I Brand & Family Cabernet Franc, Bates Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, Santa Cruz County, 12.8% ABV, $48 (#901): Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit – seems to be made in a richer, Bordeaux style. Or is it just the fruit? Fruitier, fresher, juicier.
Cabernet Sauvignons:
This was a fun side-by-side, as it was the battle of the higher end Cabs with a more moderately priced version, each from a different vineyard. When we did the side-by-side, I had assumed we had tasted and presented all the wines previously, which evidently is not the case for the one from the Massa vineyard!
2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Fellom Ranch, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Cruz County, 13.7% ABV, $75 (#751): Caramel on the nose, followed by a lean palate. More Napa-like in overall composition.
2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Vineyard Block 10, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $75 (#1064): Intense dark fruit and dust on the nose. A rich, juicy palate with a nice finish. This wine is a tad more my style.
2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Cruz County, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904): Dark ruby in the glass. It has a juicy, rich, dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the mellow palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. This old vines Cabernet is very well priced. Ian is giving all the value to his fans on this good wine. We took some home.
TODAY’S WINES
I have 9 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at their tasting room on June 30th. Winery notes come from their Summer 2023 Winemaker Letter. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2022 I Brand & Family Arneis, Vista Verde Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.8% ABV, $30 (#1056)
Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our third vintage of Arneis from Vista Verde. We originally tried this block out because we were looking for anything white after the fires of 2020 in case the smoke taint was worse than we thought. It turns out that the Vista Verde hillside does a damn good version of this rare and resurging Piedmontese variety with textbook apricot, honey and raw almond flavors. Our wine making remains largely unchanged over the last three years: Nail the pick, press whole cluster, settle, ferment and age in the same barrels and let it rest on lees until we are ready to bottle. Every time I open a bottle, I’m happy I did.”
My Review: Pale golden in color. Sweet grapefruit and apple on the nose. Tasty palate with round flavors, crisp yet some honey notes, and a long finish. We liked this wine. June 2023
2022 I Brand & Family Pinot Gris, Eden Rift Vineyard, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13% ABV, $30 (#1057)
Winemaker’s Notes: “We continue to put about 5 days of skin contact on our Eden Rift Pinot Gris, flirting with a ramato (copper) style, but not driving into the esoteria that can characterize ramato Pinot Gris in Friuli. Now in our 5th year of working with the Eden Rift site, we’re really dialing in our pick times to capture maximum complexity and depth in the wine. It can take time in bottle or in the decanter for this to reach its apex of enjoyability, but we think it’s worth it. When our Pinot Gris is at its peak, it’s a super compelling wine, unique in its marriage of lightness on the palate and grip on the finish.”
My Review: Salmon in the glass. Very delicious palate with a lingering finish of caramel and lingering fruit skins. We liked this wine, as well! Year over year – a favorite. June 2023
2022 Paysan Chardonnay, Jacks’ Hill, Monterey AVA, Monterey County, 13.4% ABV, $22 (#1058)
Winemaker’s Notes: “We are suddenly short on Paysan Chardonnay. After years of swimming upstream stylistically, we’ve had a coincidental convergence of factors that have open the floodgates on this wine; not the least of which is a majority leap in quality. The 2022 vintage was small, berried and intense with tremendous acidity. This wine is fantastic and I’m ashamed that we need to put it on allocation. Like with our Albariño this year, we will be in touch once we move through the initial release with any available bottles remaining.”
My Review: Straw in the glass. Slight buttery notes on the nose. A light and clean palate with a slight tartness – more like a Chablis. Even non-Chardonnay lovers can like this wine. June 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Chardonnay, Escolle Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $36 (#1059)
Winemaker’s Notes: “When we were still pouring the 2019 Escolle Vineyard Chardonnay in the tasting room I had a friend text me that her friend told her she really liked our oaky Chardonnay. This had resulted in some confusion because she was sure I would never make an oaky Chardonnay. I suppose technically it’s true; this wine sees a lot more oak than I put on any other white wine and bears some of the typical markers of new barrels. But it’s also a play on the adage popularized by Dave Ramey – that he’s never seen a wine that was overoaked, just a barrel that was underwined. Ultimately, I am quality focused and style agnostic. Escolle Chardonnay is dense, flavorful and high acid. We let it spend 11 months in cooperage, including two new puncheons (twice the size of a normal barrique), which is a really long time for a white wine, and then another six months in stainless to ‘marry’. The result is a lively, textured, long-lived Chardonnay worthy of sharing the table with the best wines in the world.”
My Review: Pale in color. Good fruit on the nose. A rich palate with a slight sweetness on the finish. This tends to be one of our top picks and one of the best Escolle Vineyard Chardonnays produced! June 2023
2020 La Marea Old Vines Grenache, Central Coast AVA, 14% ABV, $30 (#1060)
Winemaker’s Notes: “This blend of three ‘old vine’ Grenache vineyards from the Central Coast is a unique wine. There aren’t more than a handful of old vine Grenache vineyards on the Central Coast and we’ve gone about collecting every significant block (and some fairly tiny ones) we can because we believe in the history and future of Grenache in our region. We’ve tried bottling grenache every which way, but this three-vineyard blend is tops for depth and approachability –– it’s like everything you want from a great Pinot Noir at a third of the price. Try it with a slight chill on a warm summer evening with light fare from the grill or stash it in the cellar for a couple of years. Our experience, is our Grenaches really start showing their full potential between years 4 to 8.”
My Review: Translucent ruby in the glass. A noseful of Grenache. Cherry and crushed berries on the palate with some cinnamon on the finish. This is a very good Grenache. June 2023
2021 Paysan Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, San Benito AVA, San Benito County, 13.2% ABV, $27 (#1061)
Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve developed quite a reputation for our throwback Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a real rarity – a thoughtful, balanced, approachable Cabernet at a reasonable price. The 2021 vintage is one of my favorites in California – the wines have such prodigious quality and this is no exception. I’m constantly shocked by the amount of Cabernet Sauvignon we bring in and I know that if my mentors like Randall Grahm and John Alban were dead, they’d be rolling over in their graves. Thankfully they’re not and I wish them many happy years. Like all of our Paysan wines, it belongs on your table now and for years to come.”
My Review: Inky in color. Dark berry jam balanced by garrigue/herbal notes. Juicy on the palate. A bargain. Like a Languedoc wine. June 2023
2021 Paysan Petite Sirah, Pierce Ranch Vineyards, San Antonio Valley AVA, Monterey County, 12.9% ABV, $25 (#1062)
Winemaker’s Notes: “We stopped making Petite Sirah in 2017 because our reserved, elegant version of the grape did nothing but confuse people. By 2021, we’d had enough of people asking for it in the tasting room and decided to see if we could get back into Block One on Pierce Ranch. Thankfully, Josh was able to find a couple of tons for us in our favorite Petite Sirah section. Planted on the fractured shale of old sea beds and fermented with 1/3 whole bunch inclusion, this is the perfect wine for barbecue or richer fare demanding darker fruit flavors.”
My Review: Garnet in the glass. Fresh raspberries on the nose. Crushed red berries on the palate with some structure on the finish. June 2023
2022 I Brand & Family Piquette Nat, Zabala Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, $18 (#1063)
Winemaker’s Notes: “I think people are beginning to catch on to the beauty of our Piquette Nat. Similar to a beer in fizziness and alcohol but without the weight or wheatiness, it’s perfect chilled for Summer and pairs excellently with a variety of flavorful foods. Our 2022 version is much heavier on the hibiscus so it’s almost like a sparkling Jamaica agua fresca or showing shades of dry Lambrusco. The perfect match for street tacos. I swear it’s addictive.”
My Review: This vintage is very different previous ones – quite ruby in appearance. Reminded me a bit of a very fine, tasty, bubbly French vinaigrette! June 2023
2019 I Brand & Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Massa Vineyard Block 10, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $75 (#1064)
Winemaker’s Notes: “…This is a great coastal mountain Cabernet, classically styled and age worthy; a time piece from the heyday for California Cabernets before vineyards were replanted with restrictive root stocks and new clones. Growing in diverse topography at higher elevations lens towards intense fruit, elegance and balanced tannins. The cool maritime climate helps drop the daily diurnal in the Carmel Valley AVA (aka Cachagua), which through air and time loosens into an incredible and wide expression of true mountain magic. Like all mountain fruit, our Massa Cabernet offers an ardent expression of the varietal with structure, depth and age-ability. Great vintages off the vineyards have aged more than thirty years beautifully. Wild red and black fruit aromas are complimented on the palate thanks to natural acidity captured upon the vines. Dark fruit and graphite transition directly to a palate expression of dark berries and ethereal savory umami. Unbelievable.”
My Review: Quick side by side: Intense dark fruit and dust on the nose. A rich, juicy palate with a nice finish. I prefer this wine. I confess to having a Carmel Valley Big Red palate! We have this wine at home already! June 2023
THE TASTING ROOM
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
Looking to taste some new wines in Carmel Valley Village, we suddenly realized Chesebro Wines new releases had somehow escaped our attention! We are very happy our random stop yielded so many delicious wines, including the latest Las Arenas and La Montagne Sauvage red blends.
This tasting offered some additional and rare opportunities: to taste the 2010 and 2015 Roussanne/Rousanne blend wines side by side AND to sample their estate Cabernet Sauvignon bottled as a single varietal. That was a first for me!
Alex Lallos, Chesebro Wines’ tasting room manager, has been one of my biggest supporters back to before the pandemic. The up-front quality and value of Chesebro Wines makes them a favorite to include in my wine classes. Moreover, Alex has offered me great discounts and has helped me get my wines to their destination. I’m grateful for his support.
The Wines
Today, I am presenting 9 Chesebro Wines. Looking back in my blog, it has been a while since I have presented a full tasting from there. My last post was this one about the 2014 La Montagne Sauvage release. However, I have written about Chesebro Wines several times – just search “Chesebro” and you will find them all! Winery notes come from their tasting sheet or their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2022 Chesebro Albarino, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 12.5% ABV, $25 (#1047)
Winery Notes: “Our take on a traditional Spanish white variety. Aromas of Apricot blossom and kumquat. Lots of stone fruit and citrus loaded with minerality and verve. Vibrant and refreshing on the palate. The perfect Summer white!”
91 Points Wine Enthusiast: “Crisp and vibrant aromas of lime blossom, tart apple and a hint of tropical fruit dance across the nose of this bottling. There’s an acidic and textural edge to the palate, where apple, pear and citrus zest flavors align.” (Note: this is the 2021 vintage’s description and rating)
My Review: Pale in the glass, with a slightly musty note. Grapefruit on the palate with a tart finish. This is a very clean and crisp Albarino. June 2023
2022 Chesebro Sauvignon Blanc, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $22 (#1048)
Winery Notes: “100% Musque clone of Sauvignon Blanc. Aromatically bright with citrus, white peach, honeydew melon and passionfruit notes. The mouth is medium bodied with similar flavors as the nose along with some minerality and a long crisp finish. Pairs well with many lighter foods and is a great apperatif.”
92 Points Wine Enthusiast: “This is a benchmark Sauvignon Blanc for Arroyo Seco, representing the hallmark elements of the windswept region. Crisp aromas of lime peel, white flower blossom, cut grass, wet cement and peach invite the nose into the stony palate, where forest grass and passionfruit flavors work in harmony.” (Note: this is the 2021 vintage’s description and rating)
My Review: I sadly did not capture specific tasting notes, but we all agreed this wine was delicious. June 2023
2015 Chesebro Piedras Blancas, CM Ranch Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.1% ABV, $27 (#1049)
Winery Notes: “A Rhone style white (85% Roussanne, 10% Vermentino, 5% Sauvignon Blanc) Our richest and most complex / ageworthy white.”
My Review: Light golden in the glass. Faint notes of pineapple and petroleum on the nose. Light fruit flavors on the palate. June 2023
2010 Chesebro Estate Roussanne, CM Ranch Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $30 (#1050)
Winery Notes: “LIBRARY RELEASE – A Rhone style white (85% Roussanne, 10% Vermentino, 5% Sauvignon Blanc) Our richest and most complex / ageworthy white. From deep in our cellars we saved 25 cases of this wine because we knew it would turn into something special with age. It has done exactly that now with 12 years of age. A blend of mainly Roussanne, it is modeled after the most famous white wines in Chateauneuf du Pape, France. A nuanced dame of a wine. Rich and viscous with aromas of honey and baked pear, framed by oak. A full bodied and very serious white, with a hint of butter and a dry apricot finish. Pair this sturdy white whith soft cheeses, cream sauces, roasted fowl and sweetbreads.”
My Review: Golden in the glass. Notes of whiskey, caramel and a touch of mint on the palate, with a slightly tart finish. June 2023
Winery Notes: “A Estate blend of 50% Mission Ranch & 50% Cedar Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir. High toned, bright and elegant. A Pinot Noir lovers Pinot Noir…It packs so much intensity and pure Pinot Noir aromatics into such a defined and bright wine. This is truly in the Burgundian fashion. Refined, elegant and bursting with red fruits. Finding a boutique Pinot Noir of this caliber made in such small quantities for under $25 is nearly impossible these days.”
My Review: Ruby in color. Bacon on the nose with a cinnamon candy finish. June 2023
2016 Chesebro Las Arenas, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.2% ABV, $27 (#1052)
Winery Notes: “Our Southern Rhone inspired red blend. 65% Grenache 35% Syrah from the sandy soils in Cedar Lane Vineyard.”
My Review: Inky in the glass, Rich, intense berries and cherry = this is pretty tasty. June 2023
2015 Chesebro La Montagne Sauvage GSM, CM Ranch Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.9% ABV, $35 (#1053)
Winery Notes: “Our proprietary Rhone belnd of Syrah (80%), Grenache (15%) and Mourvedre (5%) modeled after the legendary wines of the Rhone Valley, France. Grown at 1500′ elevation, this is our flagship wine and our most popular blend from a small 2.5 acre vineyard in the mountains of Carmel Valley. Rich and broading with aromas of dark berries and all-spice. An ageworthy and deeply profound example of what Rhone varietals can do on the granite soils of Upper Carmel Valley. ONLY 80 Cases Produced.”
Wine Enthusiast 90 Points: “Herb-smoked blackberry jam, lilac and chaparral seasonings make for a rustic exploration of the terroir on the nose of this bottling. The palate is full of garrigue as well, with fennel spicing up the muddled and roasted red-berry flavors.”
My Review: While I don’t have specific notes, we all agreed this was a very good, tasty and smooth wine which we would enjoy drinking any day! This is a wine I have presented in my classes over and over – always a hit. I took one home for a future vertical tasting. June 2023
2016 Chesebro La Mariposa, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.7% ABV, $30 (#1054)
Winery Notes: “A Northern Rhone (Cote Rotie) inspired Syrah. Co-fermented with 5% Viognier for aromatic complexity and texture just like they do in Cote Rotie. Deep, rich and concentrated. ‘La Mariposa’ means butterfly in Spanish. Watch this decadent Syrah explode from your glass and develop into something truly beautiful over the evening or let is rest in the cellar for a few years and watch it evolve. Very Limited – Only 70 Cases Produced.”
My Review: Alas, no specific notes on this wine – we had reached our tasting limit for the day. This is a wine I have enjoyed in the past and this vintage was quite tasty. June 2023
2018 Chesebro Cabernet Sauvignon, Chaparral Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, $48 (#1055)
Winery Notes: “Many people don’t know that Chesebro winery producers Cabernet Sauvignon because generally it is not released to the public. This is a real treat for you fans of our heavy reds. From the highest elevation (2400ft) vineyard in Carmel Valley. Chapparal Vineyard is dry farmed and gives a very small yield of less than 2 tons per acre, which means the wine is bursting with flavor, color and aromatics. Aged for 22 months in French Oak. Upon first glance this Cabernet shows a deep dark mahogany core. Soaring aromatics (both savory and fruity) emerge from the glass with dark currants on the nose complimented by fresh tobacco, cedar, sage, cassis and of course chapparal. Wondeful balance, chalky minerality and fine grained tannins. Fruit forward and charming yet densely structured – This has it all but there are only 50 cases made so get it while you can…
“NEW RELEASE – Limit 6 Per Customer…From the highest elevation (2400ft) vineyard in Carmel Valley (Chaparral Vineyard). Dry farmed 1.5 acres with tiny yields of less than 2 tons per acre. Aged 22 months in new French oak. Only 40 cases Produced.”
My Review: Garnet in the glass. Dark fruit, bubblegum and perfume on the nose. Smooth dark fruit balanced by herbal notes. A good expression of the fruit and a lovely wine. This was a real treat. June 2023
Tasting Chesebro Wines
You can sample Chesebro Wines or in their tasting room at Up-to-date information on their tasting room hours and reservation link is here. They are open Friday through Sunday from noon until 5:00 PM reservations encouraged. You can buy their wines via their website (www.chesebrowines.com).
When I found out that this year’s Monterey Winemakers Celebration was happening on June 10th, I had some juggling to do. I had a wine class scheduled in DC, but was able to move it to be able to attend this event. The bonus was getting extra quality time in DC with our daughter! As soon as I straightened out my class, I got brave and asked Kim Stemler of the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association if there was any way I could be comped a couple of tickets – and she immediately said yes! And I convinced the rest of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod to attend!
As my avid readers know, Decanting Monterey is a self-funded labor of love to help educate others about our local vintners and their wines. The only “compensation” I receive is free tastings (most places), discounted purchases, an occasional comped bottle, and, most importantly, the appreciation of our vintners. I was grateful for this opportunity. And the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association is my go-to resource for all things Monterey wine.
About the Monterey Winemakers Celebration: “Join the vintners (winemakers) & growers of Monterey County and enjoy the incredible wines and culinary abundance from one of the world’s premier wine regions in the quaint village of Carmel-by-the-Sea. This iconic Monterey County wine festival, in its 30th year, will be held on Saturday, June 10, during Carmel’s Culinary Week. The event is moving back to the streets – Dolores (between Ocean and 7th) and 7th Street (between Dolores and San Carlos). Some of our favorite Chefs and food purveyors will join us to delight you with their magic.
I can’t wait to learn the date of next year’s event and get it on my calendar early!
WINERIES: I’m so pleased that the event website contained live links to all the wineries in attendance, making it easy to spot and research those wineries that are new or ones where we have never tasted wine, as well as to see which of our well-known wineries were there.
There were also quite a few delicious food options, which is important when you are sampling a lot of wine. Here’s who was there (from the event website):
I could have just hung out at Basil and Yafa all afternoon.
My Strategy: I had a strategy going in – to focus on wineries that were new or ones I had never presented in my blog, sample one wine, and dump the rest. I stuck to that approach for the most part. I also was able to have a few tastes of some of our favorites, too. 2 hours at the Main Event were plenty to talk to the new or new-to-us vintners and catch up with friends. We began at Shale Canyon and ended at Bernardus, with a nice, long stop at Corral Wine Co. in the middle. I was happy to connect with newcomers JL Wood,Pelio Estate, Tira Nanza, as well as try Rustiqué Wines, Folktale and The Riboli Family wines. I somehow missed tasting a wine at Carmel Road. I was still able to do a quick reach back in the middle to Chalone, Lepe, McIntyre, Puma Road, I Brand & Family, Joyce, and others. Maybe I will write a bit about them in the coming weeks!
Unlike the Santa Lucia Highlands Sun, Wind & Wine Festival in May, this one was – for the most part – just our local wineries plus The Riboli Family from Paso Robles and Los Angeles, and a few big names like Robert Mondavi and J. Lohr. And a great chance to sample wines from across the county. If you love Monterey wines, this is the event for you!
I did not capture detailed tasting notes at this event, so I’ve cobbled together my reviews from memory. Today is more about showcasing these new/new to me wineries. This post focuses on JL Wood,Pelio Estate, Tira Nanza, Rustiqué Wines, Folktale and The Riboli Family. Each is worthy of a future visit and a full tasting. Any winery notes are from their websites or from the presenters at this event. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
JL WOOD WINES
We had never heard of JL Wood. They have long been producing grapes and decided to make their own wines. They only make Chardonnay from Arroyo Seco – the wines they brought to this event were all Gold or Double Gold Medal winners. Their first vintage was 2021. Their winery operations are up in Napa and they have no tasting room. You can order their wines on their website and they ship to several states for free!
I love their intro on their home page: “Visiting friends? Going to a party? Celebrating at home? Having a relationship thing? Just got home from a required work in office day? Try a glass of JL WOOD Chardonnay. At JL WOOD, Chardonnay is all we do.”
From their website: “We are proud to announce that our 2021 Premier won Double GOLD and 97 points at the just concluded Sunset International Wine Competition. Our Nouveau won GOLD and 91 points at the 2023 Sommeliers Choice Awards, an international competition in San Francisco. In the same competition, our No-Oak won a GOLD and 90 points. Premier won GOLD and 93 points and the No-Oak won GOLD and 92 points at the 2023 Winemaker Challenge. The No-Oak won GOLD and 90 pts at the 2023 Monterey International Wine Competition. The Nouveau won GOLD at the 2023 Monterey Wine Festival. Our No-Oak won SILVER at the 2023 New Orleans Food and Wine Experience International Wine Competition and was judged to be one of the top Chardonnay wines.”
About JL Wood: “JL WOOD is a family-owned winery with a laser focus on a satisfying and modern customer experience. We create modern affordable luxury wines that are true to the fruit, delivering clean and bold flavors sip after sip. We use our independence to showcase outstanding lots of wine that otherwise would have disappeared into the oblivion of a 60,000 or 160,000-gallon industrial winery tank.”
Building on a legacy
“Our family has been on the same land for over 100 years. The land has been very productive. The family has farmed grains, vegetables, livestock feed, cattle, and sheep. A UC Davis study in the late 1950s identified our district as being ideal for certain types of wine grapes, like Chardonnay, that enjoy a combination of hot summer days and cool nights.
“JL Wood led the family into the wine business. Our wine grapes were planted in the late 90s. The rootstock and clones we have were carefully selected to match our soils and climate. The result has been very efficient farming and outstanding Chardonnay wine.”
2021 JL Wood Premier Chardonnay, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $36 (#1028)
Winery Notes: “Fruit and citrus flavors. Smooth acidity and signature long finish. Flavors layered with a pleasing vanillin, spice, and toasted oak background notes. Fully fermented. No malolactic fermentation. No added sugar. Pairs well with a multi-course meal of fish, meat, or sophisticated dishes. Award winning: GOLD and 93 points at the Winemakers’ Challenge Competition.”
My Review: Pale golden in the glass. Nice aromas of white citrus blossoms and tropical fruit on the nose. A very tasty and balanced palate – oak is very well integrated in this wine so that it is almost imperceptible. June 2023
PELIO ESTATE WINES
We first heard of Pelio Vineyards from the labels of other wineries – then I saw they were opened a tasting room in Carmel Valley next door to Blue Fox. Pelio Estate Wines was on my must-taste list for this event, as I am hoping to arrange a future Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society event there. You can taste their wines by contacting them directly or making a reservation on their website. They are located at 25 Pilot Road in Carmel Valley and open Friday – Sunday 11:30 am – 6 pm.
About Pelio: “As sisters we have always dreamed of owning our own business. When we thought about what we wanted to do, our first thoughts went to our two loves: wine and Carmel Valley.” -Lindsey & Shelby Pelio.
“In the year 2000, we purchased a piece of land where we made great memories of family picnics, learning to ride bikes and playing hide-and-go-seek in fields. Most importantly, it was the place as kids, where we let our minds run free and learned how to dream big. This piece of land was the catalyst of many firsts for us as sisters. It is where we first learned how to ride a bike, first learned how to drive a car and now it is the foundation of our first business endeavor together. We are the proud owners of this beautiful land and fabulous vineyard. As in the blending of fine wines, we took our grapes, added family, friends, winemakers, and here we are today with PELIO ESTATE VINEYARDS.”
Winemaking Description: “The 2020 Pelio Rose is produced in the whole-cluster to press method. Specific sections of the vineyard were hand harvested to produce a wine that highlights crisp acidity with balanced bright fruit characteristics. Clusters were loaded into the press and pressed to a minimal 120gallons/ton before overnight settling and fermentation. Juice was only in contact with the skins for the 45-minute press cycle giving this wine it’s delicate color. A cool ferment was carried out to dryness over two weeks before racking and maturation in stainless steel.”
Winery Tasting Notes: “A beautiful pale pink in the glass, this rose gives aromas of fresh strawberry and guava, with bright tropical esters of banana. The palate shows grapefruit and mixed citrus over crisp acidity. The texture is silky for a light rose and matches the flavors well.”
My Notes: Very pink in color, this rose is exactly what one is looking for on a warm, sunny day. Very balanced, crisp. Recommend this wine. June 2023
Tira Nanza is a true, local newcomer. We first heard of them on the event website and were eager to seek them out. They are located in Cachagua on the former Galante ranch and have already invited Decanting Monterey to visit!
About Tira Nanza: “From its sumptuous taste to scenic vineyard views, wine evokes feelings of luxury, sophistication, and indulgence. Like most consumers, this view of wine was all that we initially knew. It wasn’t until we dove head first into the industry and experienced the entirety of the winemaking process that we truly fell in love with it.
“Our goal is to offer a more authentic way to interact with and enjoy wine. Our wine experiences are process-driven, fostering deep connections, rather than overly product-driven, formulaic walkthroughs that only create surface level connections. It’s our hope that this will give our guests newfound excitement and deeper insight into the world of wine.”
“In order to make great wine you must have great fruit. Every decision we make is centered around growing the best fruit we possibly can. Where the soils allow, we dry-farm our vineyards to foster plants that are self-sufficient and not dependent on a weekly shot of water. Dry-farming forces the vines to send their roots deeper to find water and results in fruit that is more concentrated and more connected to its terroir.
“We rely on natural solutions to get the most out of our vineyards. We count on our healthy population of owls and hawks for pest control, and we use cows to clean between the rows and to improve our soil health. We use only organic and biodynamic sprays to keep our fruit healthy and untainted. Our approach requires an intimate relationship with our vineyards garnered by walking them daily. Every vine at Tira Nanza is hand-pruned and hand-harvested by the same hands that make the wines.”
Winery Notes: “Our inaugural vintage of Cab is finally here! Harvested from the oldest vines on our ranch, this dry farmed fruit exceeded all of our expectations for our first vintage. Blended with 20% Merlot and aged entirely in French Oak (75% neutral/25% new) this wine combines rich red fruit flavors with an inviting freshness seldom seen in California Cabernet.”
My Review: Impressive first vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon. Lively in color – a vibrant garnet. Cherry notes on the nose and palate. This was quite good and drinkable now – will improve with age. June 2023
RUSTIQUÉ
We have seen Rustiqué located next to Odonata and have tasted wines from the Silacci Vinayard, but this was the first time interacting with Rustiqué directly. Their tasting room is open Friday – Sunday 11 am to 5 pm at 1010 River Road, Salinas. They also do some nice special events there.
About Rustiqué: “Rustiqué is a family owned and operated estate winery established in 2006. Made with the grapes from Silacci Vineyards, we are dedicated to learning from the land and evolving alongside it to make high quality pinot noir and chardonnay. Our tasting room is located in Monterey County in the foothills of the Santa Lucia Mountain Range.”
Winery Notes: “This Chardonnay highlights the cold climate growing region of Monterey County, with aromas and flavors of golden pear, peach, melon and floral accents. It’s full bodied and accentuated palate leaves you with a beautiful structured oak toast and well rounded mineral driven finish.”
My Review: Pale yellow in the glass. If you like an oaky Chardonnay, this is the one for you. I still need to visit their tasting room.June 2023
FOLKTALE
We haven’t been to Folktale since they first opened, mostly because we prefer a traditional wine tasting setup. They have blossomed into a beautiful wine and food venue which we have not yet experienced. Moreover, they have just opened a tasting venue at Now that they have been making wine for a while, it was time to taste their wines! Plus they just opened a tasting bar at Seventh & Dolores Steakhouse in Carmel-by-the-Sea. I was very pleased to be invited to the winery for a tasting, which I will do soon with my friend Erin of tèr·ra·ve·nos! While I tasted their big, Bordeaux-style red blend, I was also intrigued by their cloudy orange wine. Keeping to my 1-wine rule, I was unable to taste both!
About Folktale: “In 2015, a band of artists, craftspeople, and lovers of life brought their wandering imaginations and lofty aspirations to a magical piece of land in Carmel, California. Out in the sunny valley, we cultivated grapevines and gardens to craft beautiful wines and experiences to delight the senses. We named this place Folktale Winery & Vineyards.
“Folktale was inspired by the idea that in every great bottle of wine, there is a story. It is filled with uniqueness of place, a year of sun and rain, and the art and craft of winemaking. The story is about our people, our guests, and our passion. This is a love story, and the best love stories never end.”
2018 Folktale The Hound, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.7% ABV, $95 (#1032)
Winery Notes: “THE HOUND is a classic blend of Bordeaux varietals, combining 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, and 9% Cabernet Franc sourced 89% from Massa Estate Vineyard and 11% from Cedar Lane Vineyard. The not-so-little brother of our Reserve Bordeaux blend, this wine is complex and elegant with aromas and flavors of blueberry, mocha, floral lilac, frisée, dusty vanilla, brown sugar, creme de cassis, pencil lead, cedar wood, and hibiscus. The texture offers nice richness with round and full tannins. The Hound is a beautiful, bold wine that will benefit from aging.”
Wine Enthusiast – 92 points: “This blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Malbec, 11% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot and 9% Cabernet Franc, which is primarily from the Massa Estate, shows boisterous aromas of boysenberry, crumpled flowers and acai on the nose. Massive tannins and strong acidity rise up on the sip, so give the dark fruits time to emerge from behind that veil. Drink 2023–2032.” — Matt Kettmann
My Review: Dark garnet in the glass. Smooth dark berry fruit on the palate. Grippy tannins on the finish. Overall, quite likeable (with that great pedigree of using Massa Estate grapes, what’s not to like?), but the dry finish leads me to think it needs a few more years of cellaring. Would pair well with a steak. My friend Erin of tèr·ra·ve·nos and I were invited to visit and will plan to do so soon. June 2023
THE RIBOLI FAMILY
I had not heard of the Riboli Family by name, but I had certainly heard of some of its brands: Maddalena, San Simeon, among others. I was only able to taste one wine here (my choice, not theirs) and I went for one of their reserve red blends from San Simeon.
“4 GENERATIONS OF WINEMAKING EXCELLENCE SINCE 1917
“A family legacy built on hard work, family values, and a love for the land.
“Here at Riboli Family Wines, we pride ourselves in maintaining our core family values while also employing innovative techniques that will keep our legacy alive for generations to come. Each Riboli family member maintains a steadfast commitment to honoring not only our premiere craftsmanship of wines, but also our dedication to environmental sustainability and to the people that make up our family business.”
DISTINCTIVE SOILS: “The superb structure and elegant profiles found in our wines are the direct result of our estate vineyards’ unique blends of calcareous limestone, sandstone, and loam soils.”
HILLSIDE VINEYARDS: “Our estate vineyards are all situated on hillsides as we believe these aspects provide the best grape-growing conditions. The slopes provide great drainage, protection from frost, and optimal ripening conditions for our vines.”
CURATED CLONAL SELECTION: “Our vineyards feature over 15 varieties of grapes and over 50 clones carefully curated to match each vineyard’s terroir.”
About San Simeon Reserve Wines: “Ancient seas receded and revealed a unique bed of limestone on which world-class wines now grows. From our best blocks on steep hillsides with perfect aspect and drainage, creating our signature flavors and aromas.”
Winery notes: “The skies darken, the winds howl, and the waves pound the rugged shore…Stormwatch! Located near the coastal town of San Simeon, our family’s ESTATE vineyards are located within the El Pomar district of the renowned Paso Robles appellation. Steep hillsides and rocky soils produce the intense flavors and aromas of this Bordeaux-style blend. Our artisan wine is hand-crafted in small lots and aged in French oak barrels for a minimum of 18 months. Dark, rich, and mouth-filling. Ripe flavors of blackberry and raspberry with touches of spice and vanilla. Enjoy the thrill of Stormwatch!”
My Review: Very dark in the glass, this brooding wine is packed with dark fruit flavors and was one of the best reds we tasted at this event. This is my kind of wine and perhaps my favorite wine of the day. I need to get down to Paso to taste more San Simeon wines! June 2023
Today marks the third anniversary of Decanting Monterey, A Central Coast Wine Blog! And what a year it has been! With 291 wines presented and reaching over 10,000 views, we have a lot to celebrate. Please read to the end for today’s small ask.
OUR HISTORY
Deep in the unvaccinated period of the pandemic in July 2020, Decanting Monterey was founded on wines from our own collection sampled at home, with or without our neighboring friends and our daughters, who quickly became known as the COVID Wine Pod. It was 2 posts per week and, mostly, one wine at a time. Back then, some wineries had just reopened with their COVID procedures and we still weren’t venturing out much. I also established the @decantingmonterey Facebook page.
During Year 2, as we became fully vaccinated and boosted – and double boosted, we were able to get out to more local wineries at a more deliberate pace. And the COVID Wine Pod was renamed the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod! I also moved to a single post per week and presented a single wine class to my old DC wine group. Most of the posts were based on event-driven or winery tastings and fewer individual, cellar-driven posts. And I started the @decanting_monterey Instagram feed.
During Year 3, I began to get recognition as an entity with some stature behind it:
I have some high-level stats to share with you about Year Three of Decanting Monterey!
www.decantingmonterey.com hit the 10,000 “views” mark! This statistic is very important to me. If you are seeing my blog on social media or via email, please be sure to click the link and open it!
291 wines were presented on Decanting Monterey for the first time.
207 red wines were presented, as well as 62 whites, 20 rosés, and a couple of oranges – including 6 sparkling and 2 fortified wines.
Over 39 distinct varietals were presented with Pinot Noir topping the list thanks to the SLH festival I attended, followed closeky by Red Blends, and Syrah – no surprise if you know me!
Wines from 12 California counties are represented, with 181 from Monterey, 30 from Santa Barbara, 20 from San Benito, 15 from Santa Cruz, 11 from San Luis Obispo, 9 from San Benito – and more! Plus 12 wines from Italy!
Wines from 6 of the 9 Monterey American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) were covered, capturing 39 varietals!
I Brand was the most represented family of wines, followed by Parsonage. I attribute that to the steady and wonderful release events offered by I Brand & Family wines. Parsonage was one of the first local wineries to put Monterey wines squarely on our consumption radar way back when. Their wines match my palate perfectly – what else can I say?
While I have some posts already queued up for Year 3, let me ask my mighty readers: Where should I visit next? Please leave me a comment on this post and let me know what some of your favorite, local places are to wine taste that I should not miss in Year 3! I have a list of not-yet-covered wine tasting rooms and other wine venues to check out – happy to add to it. I don’t know what I don’t know.
SUBSCRIBE
And, if you have not signed up for my free, weekly blog email, I encourage you to do so – the subscription button is on the right-hand side of each page of the Decanting Monterey website. I judge how well I am doing by how many views, subscribers, and comments I receive. Please help me spread the word and please feel free to comment on my posts! And follow my Facebook (@decantingmonterey) and Instagram (@decanting_monterey) sites.
OUR SUPPORTERS
I am grateful to Chesebro, Bernardus, Bunter Spring, Idle Hour, Pierce Ranch and Rombi for their generosity this year in donated wines or discounts. Grateful to Kim Stemler and the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association for their support – what a great resource! And to Erin O’Reilly of tèr·ra·ve·nosfor her partnership and advice as we navigate this world of wine. I remain grateful to those vintners who have comped me wine tastings, given me discounts, and especially those who have comped me bottles of wine! And, of course, the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod!
DONATE
Now, to my ask:
As my avid readers know, Decanting Montereyis a self-funded labor of love to help educate others about our local vintners and their wines. The only “compensation” I receive is free tastings (most places), discounted purchases, an occasional comped bottle, and, most importantly, the appreciation of our vintners. While I do this, I protect your data from being sold or used by anyone other than for my own website statistics. Here is my Privacy Policy.
As I come up on my 3-year renewal of my website, I am asking my readers to consider making a small donation to keep this effort going. I donate my time, energy, knowledge, and to date personally have funded this website and my wine education travel expenses.
Here is what it takes to make Decanting Monterey run:
$1200-2400/year in travel expenses (airfare, car rental only)
While this blog is open and free, donations to this not-for-profit effort are always welcomein any amount! You can donate here: Donate to Decanting Monterey. All donations go toward the operation of this website and to offset travel expenses for out of area wine classes. Even the smallest amount would be greatly appreciated.
So, here we go – Year 4! This should be an even better one! Thanks for your support to me on this crazy journey.
I had an allotment to pick up at Rombi Wines in Carmel Valley Village. My Better Half said he had several questions he wanted me to ask Sal Rombi. I started to write down the list…then I just looked at him. I mean, if he really wanted all those answers, wasn’t he coming with me? I mean, the college basketball tournament was over, baseball is just starting. Was he worried he was going to miss…golf????
We were the first ones there on the Saturday before Easter. And the questions started coming out almost before our first pour. They mostly have to do with which wineries are located where in relationship to his and when they were planted. Some of the very best wines of Monterey County – and certainly the biggest reds – come from the Carmel Valley AVA and many of those vineyards are located in Cachagua. We also played one of our favorite games: guess which 5 tasting rooms were the only ones open in 1995. Most of the wineries we know today did not open their tasting rooms or even start operations until the 1980’s. Sal confirmed one of them for us.
I’ve written about Rombi Wines many times – just type “Rombi” in the search bar. As I have said before, the fruit from Sal Rombi’s Carmel Valley Vineyard is so flavorful, creating wines with up-front intense flavors. Rombi’s wines are very big and complex – highly recommend decanting to get the full fruit flavors. Actually, we have been double-decanting and double-aerating them for best results…unless you really want to wait a day after opening. Who can wait? I mean, it is not like we decide at noon that we will have one of his big Cabernet Sauvignons after dinner. It is usually an in-the-moment decision.
About Rombi Wines: “Carmel Valley Vineyard is at the pinnacle of the Carmel Valley Appellation located atop the ridgeline at an elevation of 1650 ft. its orientation captures cooling marine influences nightly. The vineyard is hand tended with sustainable practices. The well-drained rocky soil creates balanced vines with limited yields of superior fruit that produce exceptional wine. The vines were planted in 1998. The original planting was 1,000 vines 50% Cabernet Sauvignon 337 on 110R rootstock and 50% Merlot 181 on RG rootstock. It was trained to Vertical Shoot Positioning and is spaced meter by two. (4’X 8’). The vineyard has been expanded to 1850 vines and another 1,000 vines will be planted this year for a total of just over 2 acres. Other plantings are scheduled.”
In today’s post I will present 4 current releases available in his tasting room. The 2019 Merlot is the only wine I had not previously tasted. And we had a huge surprise: the 2017 Petite Sirah made from local fruit which was absolutely NOT ready 2 years ago is now drinking beautifully. We always recommend cellaring his wines and then the double decant. His wines do not disappoint!
Sal has always been generous to Decanting Monterey, whether it is replenishing my home stock or giving me new wines to try. I will always let you know when a winery has comped me the wine – which a few have done. Since this is an all-volunteer effort, it is small gestures like these that make operating my website affordable – in an indirect way!
2019 Rombi Merlot, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $65 (#974)
This was his 13th year of production.
My Review: Garnet, almost purple in the glass. Dusty raspberry notes on the nose. Tart smooth raspberry on the palate. I’m lacking words to describe how delicious this fruit is. For such a young Rombi wine, it is very drinkable now and has the structure to last. April 2023
2018 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $85 (#328)
My Review: Garnet in color. A warm nose with plum and cherry notes. Complex with lots of cherry and that delicious Cachagua fruit on the palate and chewy tannins. He makes undeniably the biggest, most complex Cabernet Sauvignon in the county. We liked this wine and it is still young. Can’t wait to see what this becomes. Cellar for the future. April 2023
2017 Rombi Petite Sirah, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.6% ABV, $75 (#331)
This fruit comes from the Galante vineyards.
My Review: A rich, bright garnet in the glass. Cherry and berry notes on the nose. Thick on the palate with cherry and berry flavors. This is a “wow” wine. This wine has improved over the years, has finally come into its own and is very drinkable right now. April 2023
2018 Rombi Petit Verdot, Napa Valley, 14.4% ABV, $75 (#330)
This is Rombi’s first Petit Verdot, which I reviewed back in 2021 and liked very much. As I wrote before, Sal shared with us the small fact that Petit Verdot is the last fruit to ripen. I likely had commented that I used to think Petit Verdot was a touch vegetal. Perhaps others aren’t patient enough for the fruit to ripen fully!
My Review: Inky Garnet in the glass. A dusty, vegetal nose, which I often pick up from Petit Verdot, enhanced by some warm, brown sugar notes. The palate: super rich, smooth, with dark berry flavors. It’s packed with delicious, dark fruit with a slightly bitter licorice finish. This is one of my favorite Petit Verdots. April 2023
Visit the Rombi Tasting Room: If you have not yet had the opportunity to taste Sal’s wines, I highly recommend visiting him on a Saturday or Sunday, 12-5 at One Center Street, Carmel Valley Village. You can learn more about his wines online at Rombi Wines. You can also contact Kathy and Sal at kathy@rombiwines.com or sal@rombiwines.com for more information about buying their wines.
Our Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society is continuing to grow, making it challenging to find a spot for our first Friday “WinedUP” tastings. A lot of our local tasting rooms are small. I have been trying to find places with larger tasting rooms to allow more of our members to participate. It won’t always be possible, but I have found a few for this Spring. One of the first places I thought of was Georis. It has a stunning space – indoors and out.
The Georis Winery tasting room manager, Ivan Cornejo-Martinez, was great to work with. He was very kind and flexible – we worked together to keep the event as simple as possible, limiting the number of extra staff and glasses he would need to have on hand. It was nice to learn we could have done catered food or ordered in from Corkscrew Café across the street, as well. In the end, we decided to reserve those options for future events.
It had been a chilly day on the coast, so despite driving through a spot of rain to get to the valley, we were thrilled that it was sunny and even warm! When we entered their spacious tasting room, we were delighted to find 3 tasting options: Chilled (sparkling and white wines), the Grand Mix (which includes a white, a rose and 3 reds) and the Estate (all big reds). They started us with a special wine: the 2009 Deux Frères Merlot/Malbec blend – a great way to kick off the evening. The name of the wine refers to the two Georis brothers, Walter and Gaston, who sadly passed away last year. The tasting room staff Ivan, Daisy and James were extremely knowledgeable about the wines and did a terrific job taking each of us through our tastings. I hope to go back soon with the rest of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod.
Check with the winery, as their tasting menu and prices do change!
From the Georis winery’s webpage: “Walter Georis was born of a Belgian father and a German mother who immigrated to the US from Belgium in 1956 when Walter was eleven years old. After having spent his teen years in Southern California, Walter decided to move north to Carmel where he pursued a career in fine arts. Soon after arriving in Carmel, Walter designed a family restaurant, Casanova that would become internationally renowned for its cuisine and style, and its wine cellar. Remembering his childhood and the pleasures of country life on the family farms in Europe, Walter decided to combine his love of fine wines with the challenges and rewards of growing grapes and producing first class wines. In 1981, after consulting with French experts on soil and wine making, he bought a ranch in Carmel Valley and soon planted the grapes that would produce the first crop of Georis wines…
“The vineyard is located in the mountains of the upper Carmel Valley, California, 20 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Our 14 acre vineyard is planted to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Pinot Noir grapes. Our terroir is sandy clay loam with gravel and river rocks. Some small vineyard areas include chalky soils…
“Since 1982, Georis Winery proudly produces a variety of wines exceptional in quality. Georis wines represent authenticity, integrity and a commitment to terroir expressive wines. Our philosophy is to respect European wine-making traditions while embracing the generous California climate of our appellation. Our objective is to craft wines with complexity, elegance and finesse.”
Today I am presenting 12 Georis wines which we tasted at the AWS event. Winery notes come from their website or conversations with tasting room staff. Any errors are mine and mine alone. Sometimes I am distracted by others or feel rushed in the tasting and can’t get the notes I truly want. I’ll have to go back. After all, this is a social event!
2009 Georis Deux Frères, Carmel Valley AVA (#963)
Winemaker’s Notes: ~80% Merlot, ~20% Malbec
My Review: Ruby in the glass. Some soft sandalwood notes on the nose. Light on the palate. This well aged wine is coming into its own. April 2023
Winemaker’s Notes: From Tessiere Vineyard in Arroyo Seco. ~12 months in neutral oak.
My Review: This is one of those great, dry Rieslings from Arroyo Seco. Citrus flavors balanced by salty minerality. Sweet flavors of honeysuckle or white citrus blossom complete the finish. I described this wine as reminiscent of taking a tequila shot followed by the salt and lime – all in a very delicious package. April 2023
2021 Georis Les Abeilles Rosé, Carmel Valley AVA, $42 (#965)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Elegant and crisp Cabernet Franc based Rosè. Medium bodied and dry. Raspberry, peach candy, cantaloupe, and jasmine.”
My Review: This was a very nice wine, probably one of the best Central Coast Rosé wines I have tasted lately. Dry, delicately flavored, balanced, perfect in all ways. Very traditional. April 2023
Winemaker’s Notes: Aged in 20% French barrels for 12 months. The fruit comes from our estate vineyard in Carmel Valley.
My Review: Light in the glass with perfume on the nose. To me, this did not come off as one of those buttery Chardonnays. Balanced. A lean, lighter weight wine than I was expecting. April 2023
Winemaker’s Notes: “Full bodied and earthy. Smooth, soft tannin with a lingering finish. Blueberry, cherry, forest floor and violet. 554 Cases produced.”
My Review: A brown tinge in the color with very typical aromas and flavors of a Central Coast Pinot Noir. April 2023
2017 Georis Estate Les Amoureaux Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $65 (#968)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Full bodied and earthy. Smooth, soft tannin with a lingering finish. Blueberry, cherry, forest floor and violet. 554 Cases produced.”
My Review: This was the very last wine I tasted on the way out the door. A new participant at the AWS tasting told me that I really needed to try it. I found it to be fuller bodied and a Pinot Noir even this Pinot Noir naysayer could really enjoy. Sorry I did not capture better tasting notes! April 2023
2017 Georis Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 13.5% ABV, $40 (#969)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Very soft and acid driven with notes of cherry, leather, and roasted pepper. Fantastic progression from the front to the back of the palate with a bright acidic finish.” From the Donati Family Vineyard in Paicines.
My Review Powered by Terravenos: Herbaceous, violet, and lots of mid-palate structure with mild tobacco notes on the finish. April 2023
2017 Georis Merlot, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.8% ABV, $40 (#54)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Rich and bold yet elegant with sumptuous aromas of mocha, savory chocolate, and black berry fruits. The palate is extremely generous with hints of young berry, black berry, black spices, and silky tannins.”
My Review Powered by Terravenos: OK, we are finally in my wheelhouse! This is one of the early wines I reviewed in Decanting Monterey. Ruby/purple in color with plum/blackberry and “Fig Newton” on the nose with rose petal, black cherry and overripe strawberry notes on the palate. Since I first reviewed this wine almost 3 years ago, the tannins have smoothed out. A very delicious, big wine which is drinking very well. April 2023
2017 Georis “La Chapelle” Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $80 (#970)
Winemaker’s Notes: Our annual Bordeaux blend, the 2017 vintage is 80% Merlot, 10% Petite Verdot and 10% Malbec.
My Review: A nice, dark berry bouquet with the nose carrying over to the palate. Very smooth with the fruit well integrated. I liked this wine. April 2023
Winemaker’s Notes: “Powerful ruby colored with great nose of dark fruit, plum, and blackberry. Smooth elegant middle with silky tannins and a chalky finish. A dominate palate with savory notes such as dates, fennel, tobacco leaf, and leather.”
My Review: Warm, dark fruit on the nose. This is a good Cabernet Sauvignon from the premier growing area for Cabernet in Monterey County – Cachagua. This has good structure and lots of tannin – this will last for years to come. Buy some and cellar! April 2023
2017 Georis “Clos des Moutons” Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.8% ABV, $90 (#972)
Winemaker’s Notes: Our single vineyard selection, aged 26 months in French oak barrels. Think leathery, plum, and tobacco flavors. ~80% Merlot, ~20% Petit Verdot
My Review: Nose of rosemary. Cherry and berry flavors on the palate. Complex structure. This is another great wine. April 2023
2017 Georis Estate “Malbec Du Milieux”, Carmel Valley AVA, $75 (#973)
Winemaker’s Notes: A single vineyard of 5 acres of 40-year-old Malbec vines. Aged 24 months in French barrels.”
My Review: Warm, jammy fruit on the nose. It is a surprising mix of sweet jamminess and tart fruits like raspberry and cherry. I found this wine intriguing – and a great one to end the tasting on a very high note. April 2023
Georis Tasting Room: Located at 1 Pilot Road, Carmel Valley Village. Open Wednesday – Monday from 12:00 – 6:00 pm with the exception of the weather and holidays. (831) 659-1080. “We greatly appreciate a call if will be joining us with a large group, we want your experience to be delightful while drinking some of California’s best.”
The Decanting Monterey Wine Pod looks forward to an I Brand & Family release party – a tradition for us. There is always something surprising to taste. And the most recent one in March was no exception. It is a great opportunity to taste the new releases in a festive and relaxed setting. In addition to their consistently great Albariño, standouts at this event were the Chenin Blanc from Carmel Valley and the Pinot Noir (yes, I said Pinot Noir!) from Cienega Valley, plus the most unique Cabernet Pfeffer, also from Cienega Valley. The food and entertainment were both high quality. Oysters and small bites were provided by Oystertown and the music, by El Pacado de Juana.
I have learned there is no rush to taste the wines at these events. There is plenty of time to experience a wine fully (color, nose, body, flavors, finish), compare notes with the wine pod, and dump the rest so I can get us home safely. Then comes the great part: deciding which wines we will take home!
I have 8 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at the release party. Winery notes come from their Spring 2023 Winemaker Letter or their website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! I used the microphone in my phone to transcribe the long, descriptive paragraphs. I think I corrected the sometimes-amusing text it recorded (had a hard time with Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Pfeffer, but igot Tellicherry and Cachagua right the first time), but, as always, any errors are mine and mine alone.
2022 La Marea Kristy Vineyard Albariño, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $24 (#955)
Winemaker’s Notes: “At this point, what’s left to say about our Kristy’s Vineyard Albariño? We began making Albariño in 2011 to test our theory that the Salinas Valley was best suited to saline, mineral-driven, high acid whites. Steve McIntyre, the gentle caporegime of Monterey County winegrowing, pointed us to several options but said he thought Kristy’s was the best quality. By 2013 we were pretty much locked in on our winemaking program. We tried varying our winemaking a couple of times since then but have always come back to the original because it just works. 2/3 direct press, 1/3 skin contact for two days. Cold fermented in stainless steel, arrested malic. We’ve been told several times this is the standard for aromatic whites in the new world. The biggest issue is, with the drought, yields have been down on the vineyard. We just don’t have enough of this wine. The 2022 vintage is full of intensity and bright acidity, combining the open fruit flavors of the 19 and the direct bite of 2020. A spectacular wine.
“Tasting Notes – Aromas of white nectarine and honeysuckle abound. Bright acidity leads on the palate framed by a redolence of underripe pineapple and stone fruit, which persist and blend with wet river rock on the finish.”
My Review: Straw in the glass. Nose of bright citrus, balanced by the sweetness of honeydew melon. A tasty palate with grapefruit zest on the finish. Super fresh. March 2023
2022 Paysan Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $24 (#956)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Maybe five years ago, I told my friend Eben Drucker that Sauvignon Blanc would soon be on the rise. Eben has helped us with national and international sales of our brands for almost ten years and had been mixed up in the wine business for twice that. Sauvignon Blanc was at its nadir, totally disregarded in the wake of Kim Crawford and grassy New Zealand mass production. I saw the quality of the vineyards in the ground, the budding renaissance of Sancerre on east coast wine lists, and whispers on the hippier edge of California winemaking oddly about a variety associated with country clubs and gala balls. We had been getting our toes wet in Sauvignon Blanc for a consulting project and I was closing in on an idea for a wine. We worked on the idea for a couple of years in small lots and, in 2021, we made the leap and took the bulk of the vineyard. It sold like hotcakes, and we expect the same with the 2022 vintage. The Zabala Vineyard is among the rockiest you’ll see, resplendent with river stones, reminiscent of the galets roulés of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Sauvignon Blanc at Zabala is the Sauvignon Musqué variation, which means the wine has more fruit notes, especially ripe melon.
“Tasting Notes – Satsuma Mandarin and herbaceous notes of fresh-cut chives, tarragon, and wet limestone shine brightly up front. The attack on the palate is bright and distinctly tropical dragonfruit and papaya, evolving into dry citrus flavors reminiscent of Buddha’s hand.”
My Review: Straw in color. Perfume on the nose. Rich flavors on the palate with notes of green pepper. One in our group thought it was a touch harsh. March 2023
Winemaker’s Notes: “Over the last few vintages, our rosé has become more Mourvèdre focused, lending the wine more depth and intensity despite its pale color. With roughly 4 hours of skin contact across the lots, the 2022 has a pale, almost vin gris hue, but don’t be fooled. Hiding beneath that hint of pink is deep, textured wine. Both the Arroyo Seco Canyon Vineyard and the Siletto Vineyard are rocky and the minerality shows through. Extremely pleasurable to drink, we expect this to be peaking just as the summer heat hits. I’m in love with the new package. If you have a porch or patio, you need some of this rosé.
“Tasting Notes: Initial aromas of watermelon and cantaloupe are inescapable, transitioning to trailside strawberry with a touch of air. Melons and strawberries persist on the palate, and bright red fruits continue into the finish transforming into a pleasing strawberry-basil herbaceous salinity.”
My Review: Very pale pink in the glass. A nice, rich rose nose out-promises the delicate palate of white peach with a watermelon finish. Based on the writeup above, this wine deserves a revisit! March 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Massa Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $36 (#958)
Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our first year working with the Chenin Blanc off Massa, (née Durney) in the Cachagua region of the upper Carmel River Basin. Planted on its own roots fifty years previous, these vines can now be called old vines, (per the Historic Vineyard Society). They produced a stunning Chenin Blanc: racy and intense. We held ours back an additional six months in bottle to allow it to flesh out. The Massa Vineyard is a special place. Still very much a rough diamond, I have seen the most stunning wines emerge from the vineyard – on par with vineyards known internationally. We made a mere 44 cases of this wine and more than half will go out to the initial club release. If you would like multiple bottles, please contact us promptly.
“Tasting Notes – Aromas of flint, toasted brioche and lemon verbena are immediately present. These flavors follow onto the palate, incorporating drier, flavors of green walnuts and more brioche; beautiful floral notes reminiscent of lavender and lilac grace the dry finish.”
My Review: Pretty, light yellow in the glass. Clean nose. Lovely, full bodied palate of fresh fruit, with peach and citrus flavors, balanced by brioche and salty notes. Our favorite of the tasting. March 2023
2020 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard – Old Vine Grenache, Santa Clara Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $42 (#959)
Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our ninth iteration coming from the centenarian Grenache vines cared for by the Besson family since the 1940s. We’ve settled into a nice place with the winemaking and the wines grow into deep, thoughtful ruminations on time and place as they settle into the bottle. For those who have a chance to drive by the classic vineyard (it’s right across from Gilroy Gardens on Hecker Pass Highway heading west from Gilroy) the third generation of the Besson Family has started a small brand and you can taste their wine amid the old soldiers. We share these blocks with our good friends, winery mates and longtime fellow travelers, John and Alex from Birichino. Over the years they’ve sold small amounts to old-vine lions of California wine like Ridge, Sandlands, and A Tribute to Grace. We keep our allocation from the rockiest section next to Uvas Creek and produce it with spontaneous fermentations, 50% whole cluster, a touch of French oak influence and sixteen months on lees in barrel. It’s the same recipe we’ve used since 2014 and we keep it consistent because it really works with the site and because with consistent winemaking you can really see vintages expressed over time. The 2020 vintage was beset by high smoke covering the sun for extended periods and so the wine is less boisterous but more deep and textured at this early stage. This is always a star in our tasting room.
“Tasting Notes – Ripe red fruit, specifically red delicious apples, fresh pressed cider and savory hints of manzanita and Tellicherry peppercorn abound on the nose. The palate is similarly bright with additional herbaceous notes of fresh tarragon. This quickly evolving wine wraps up with distinct tannins and aromatic pine duff.”
My Review: 112-year-old vines! Garnet in color. Perfume, plum and cherry on the nose. A good, mid-weight, bright wine with cherry notes and a little leather on the finish. March 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Flint Vineyard Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, $36 (#960)
Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve gained a reputation locally as Pinot Noir naysayers, which isn’t fair. We love Pinot Noir and I made my fair share of it when I worked in the Santa Cruz Mountains (and I still make a great deal for special projects). Because of that experience, we’re very particular about where we get our Pinot Noir from, which makes sense as Pinot Noir is very particular about where it grows well. We re-entered the Pinot Noir fray to prove a point. So much discussion in Pinot Noir winemaker circles focuses on how cold the vineyard is and what clones are used. When we worked with the Enz Vineyard, the Pinot Noir felt like a red-headed step child because the vineyard was warm, without consideration for how wonderful the site is. I am of the opinion that a great site always speaks most strongly, so we took the fruit. I was elated by the response. After the relationship with the Enz family imploded, we moved around the corner to Scott Flint‘s place. Scott is a really kind and super interesting guy. He used to make his own wine but now spends his days restoring old tractors. We used a 1946 Ford forklift to load the bins. If the bin is a little heavy, it gets difficult because the front tires don’t want to stay on the ground and that makes it tough to steer. Scott’s vineyard is at the base of Mount Harlan, home to Calera, and because the cold air sinks off the mountain onto his property it buds out late and picks about a month later than Enz and a couple of weeks later than the ‘cool climate’ Santa Lucia Highlands. All things in wine and viticulture are relative, there are no hard truths. The Flint bears the signature of the special mixed granitic and calcareous soils of the Cienega combined with the darker red fruits and cherry compote character of a cool climate pinot noir. 2021 was just a special vintage and willowy Pinot Noir often shows vintage variation more readily than other grapes. Lovely.”
“Tasting Notes – Notes of cedar and dried porcini mushrooms are present on the nose, subtly melding with undertones of cherry preserves. The palate is well-integrated but complex. The preserved cherries come back into play, evolving into the warm cherry pie flavors typical of pinot noir. Bright acidity wraps things up and leaves you with baking spices and vanilla bean.”
My Review: Rich ruby in the glass. Light cherry on the nose. Rich palate, balanced and delicious, with tobacco on the finish. Not a Pinot Noir drinker, but I like this wine. Promises to be an exceptional wine. We bought this to cellar, as we have with other reserve Pinot Noirs from this region, with excellent results. March 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Gimelli Vineyard Cabernet Pfeffer, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.8% ABV, $36 (#961)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Only about 10 acres of Cabernet Pfeffer exist in the world, and most all of it is in San Benito County. The Gimelli Vineyard encompasses the remnants of the El Gabilan Vineyard, first planted in the 1890s in Grass Valley, a side canyon off the Cienega Valley on the east side of the Gabilan cordillera. Cabernet Pfeffer was rumored to be a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Trousseau made by San Jose nurseryman, William Pfeffer in the 19th century, but that story is apocryphal. Ken Ryan Kobza, our winery tsar, has been making Cabernet Pfeffer for the better part of a decade. We sent petiole samples to UC Davis five years ago and they matched most closely with a long-forgotten grape variety from the southwest of France called Mourtaou. Either way, Cabernet Pfeffer is a rare beast. Not fruity in the way California wine is alleged to always be, Cabernet Pfeffer is dominated by savory, umami flavors, like a cigar box and teriyaki. Special and super interesting, this is the only year we will make a single-varietal Cabernet Pfeffer. We’re proud to share this little slice of local history.
“Tasting notes – Our Cabernet Pfeffer smells like a humidor, with bold notes of cedar and sweet tobacco. This sweet and savory notes translate as unctuous teriyaki on the palate, quickly incorporating notes of spicy ancho chili on the mid-palate and closing with a hint of tart raspberry. Well-integrated tannins wrap up the experience.”
My Review: Garnet in color. Bouquet of enticing sweetness, balanced by cinnamon spice. A bright palate with cranberry notes. It is lean, medium bodied and unique, rare. We took one home. I hope we will cellar it for a bit. March 2023
2020 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Syrah, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.8% ABV, $36 (#962)
Winemaker’s Notes: “The 2020 Graff Syrah came early in the heat of 2020, which was fortuitous because it avoided the worst of the smoke. These vines are now more than 30 years old, farmed immaculately since their planting by the ace duo of Hector and Jose Bravo. This one, to me, shows with Chalone can be – it’s among the most compelling places to grow wine in America. Granitic brightness meets suave limestone texture, stems, and the blood iron that always emerges in great Syrahs. 80% whole cluster, 18 months on lees, another 8 months in bottle before release.
“Tasting notes – Earthy, meaty notes of peppered beef jerky. Graphite and clay transition into a savory mix of fire-roasted tomato confit and guajillo chili, which evolve into dark fruit reminiscent of a spiced blueberry compote ending with cumin and cardamom on the finish.”
My Review: Rich, dark garnet. Spice and earth on the nose. Dark berries and earth on the palate. March 2023
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
As we were driving out to Carmel Valley to select wines for the Carmel Rotary event in February, we hatched this idea: Wouldn’t it be fun to host a blind tasting of Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignons? We ran the idea by one of our tasting room favorites, Summer Emmons, at Parsonage. She thought that sounded wonderful and started rattling off wineries which should be included – they were the same ones we had discussed in the car!
When we got home, Mr. H searched our collection to see if he could find wines from a single vintage. The oldest vintage we could find for all those wineries was 2015. And we did call around to try to add some other Carmel Valley Cabernet Sauvignons to the mix – but couldn’t get our hands on them.
This was a particularly good, albeit low yield vintage for Carmel Valley wines. As Sal Rombi of Rombi Wines explained to me long ago: Everything was going great, until flowering, when there was a lot of wind and rain. This resulted in about 55% fruit yield for the season. Because there were fewer berries creating less weight on the vines, the fruit was much more intense, resulting in this delicious vintage.
The hard part of arranging this event was finding a date that would work for everyone we wanted in the room. In the end, we pushed it out to March – and even then, lost a couple of participants. But it was the right group for the experience. In the room was the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod, Summer Emmons of Parsonage, and Erin O’Reilly of tèr·ra·ve·nos.
There was much anticipation and preparation for this event. The hardest part was the wine glasses: first, finding 7 sets of glasses in which all 4 glasses were the same, and then getting all the spots off the glasses. The amount of glassware reminded me of the time we tested Parsonage’s COVID wine tasting procedures – it was a lot of glassware, prompting them to change their plan.
The wines were all decanted at the same time. Not all our decanters were the same shape, but it was the closest we could come. And the wines were carefully pre-poured by Mr. H, a 2-ounce our of each of the 4 wines for each participant. Only he knew which wine was which and the order was mostly random. And only he and I knew exactly which wines were included in the mix, including the fact that one was a red blend. We also carefully planned the food pairings, with salami, cheeses, and a bit of dark chocolate to match the Cabernet Sauvignons.
Then the fun began. We used the tèr·ra·ve·nos tasting sheet to rate the wines. In general, we looked at and smelled each wine before we tasted them. We analyzed the flavors of each wine one-by-one. Since we didn’t know which was which, we could be bluntly honest about each one. With such a range of palates, we heard many descriptors…memorable ones…and we agreed that one of the wines – what we learned later was the red blend – tasted vastly different from the others. We did do an informal ordering of our preferences, with Wine #4 slightly edging out these other fine wines. This was a super fun format and we will do this again. Why not try this with your friends?
We started our evening with antipasto and 2 local whites: 2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White and 2019 Corral Wine Co. Sauvignon Blanc. Here are winery notes on these two wines and links to my prior postings about these wines:
2020 I Brand & Family Old Vines White (#742): “Old Vine White field blend is a blend of 3 unusual varietals. Orange Muscat, Mission and Palamino.” This was a very light white with interesting flavors, which evoked a conversation amongst us about the varietals we don’t know.
2019 Corral Wine Co. Sauvignon Blanc (#604): “The Musque clone of Sauvignon Blanc showcases bright, vibrant aromas of tropical fruit. Guava and grapefruit compliment hints of freshly cut hay and wet stone. Finishes with a racing acidity.” This is one of our collective favorite local Sauvignon Blanc wines.
Today I am presenting the 4 Carmel Valley wines in the order we tasted. 3 have been presented here before, and 1 is new (you can tell by their numbers). As usual, the winery notes come from their tasting sheet, website, or conversations with the owner. My tasting notes this time are an amalgamation of what I heard during the tasting. Are you ready for the big reveal?
2015 Rombi Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, 14.1% ABV, $85 (#57)
Our Review: Deep garnet in color. Spice, tobacco, black licorice and leather on the nose. Cinnamon, dark fruit, black cherry, black licorice, tobacco and a touch of smoke and leather on the tongue-coating, smooth palate with a woody, dry finish. Chewy tannins. March 2023
2015 Bernardus Marinus Signature Red Wine, Marinus Vineyard, Carmel Valley AVA, 14.1% ABV, $125 (#889) 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Petit Verdot, 23% Merlot, 15% Petite Sirah
Winery Tasting Notes: “This 2015 vintage of our highly regarded Signature Marinus exhibits a beautiful, deep robe. The aromas are redolent with dark red fruits and dried spices. On the palate we find bright ripe-red fruit flavors and notes of cedar on a long, rich finish, promising a long life to come! A wonderful example from our estate vineyard!
Our Review: Lighter garnet than the previous wine, perhaps a touch cloudy. Aromas of intense dark raspberry (that delicious aroma of Cachagua fruit!) and prune; a spice like sandalwood, eucalyptus, or cigar box; and white pepper. Fruitier, packed with dark fruit and chocolate notes with a long finish. Smooth and tasty, less tannic than the previous wine. March 2023
Wine Enthusiast rated the 2015 Boëté Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 90 points. “Roasted red-cherry aromas meet with charcoal, smoke, oregano and marjoram on the rustic nose. Stiffer tannins uphold both bright and dark-red fruit flavors on the palate.” Matt Kettmann, August 2020
Our Review: Dark garnet with hints of brown in the glass. A pretty nose of brambleberry, cassis, slightly floral, bakery yeast and “a fat crème de violet.” Fruity flavors of blueberry, intense cassis, and sour cherry, checked by earth and green notes. Slightly acidic and alcoholic attributes.March 2023
Winery Tasting Notes: “A beast of a cab, truly a bada$$. Think Jack Reacher from the books, not Tom Cruise in the movies. This brute has a deep, dark core of sophistication that reveals its identity with time. Black currants, huckleberry, and horehound licorice with great density on the palate and fully ripened tannins. My recommendation is to lay it down for a few years while it evolves into a peaceful warrior.”
Our Review: Garnet in color. Dark berries on the nose with floral and herbal hints combined with notes of smoke, wood and plastic. The palate says “Cabernet Sauvignon,” with beautiful, chalky, and smooth flavors of dark fruit, coffee, and smoke. The finish goes on forever. Perhaps our favorite amongst favorites. March 2023
I hope you enjoyed this post. Please give me feedback by leaving a comment!
Several weeks ago, I got a text from the Vice Chair of the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society, Phil Arnold. He also happened to be one of the presidents of the Carmel by the Sea Rotary Club. It went something like this: “Would you have any desire to do a presentation to our club on Monterey County wines?” It was short notice, but I have a presentation at the ready and, after some back and forth, Phil and I scoped it to 2 wines. I was given a generous budget to work with, making it easy to find wines within the price point. My husband and I took a quick trip to Carmel Valley Village for a very targeted tasting – on a mission. We selected two wines I have not presented before, making it a bit exciting under the time crunch.
Every winery visit, wine tasting and wine class has a story. And, boy, is this a doozie.
I had not previously done a Monterey County wine class for a local group – just East Coast wine education non-profit organizations. I was concerned that I would be preaching to the choir, that audience members might question some facts and figures. I spent a lot of time on the historical timeline slide. With lots of data provided by the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association, I tried to pick the most noteworthy points. I would wake up in the middle of the night with a blinding insight on the relevance of some of the information and keep changing this slide.
I wanted to be ready for this presentation. To be sure I didn’t forget anything, I put a Post-it note on the inside of my front door: laptop, charger, mouse, tasting room brochures. As I left the house that morning, it was check, check, check, check, check. I was ready! I arrived at the Carmel Mission Inn and confidently strode across the parking lot – when I realized I had forgotten perhaps the most important thing – the wines! 😊 Luckily, my partner in crime was home and I gave him an excuse to get his car out of the garage and on the road. We all had a good laugh about it.
In my presentation, I highlighted the rich local winemaking history, dating back to the Spanish missionaries who first plant grapes at the San Antonio Mission in 1770. In the 1960s, commercial production really took off. One of the most interesting data points I have is that in 1995,there were only 5 tasting rooms open in Monterey County. That seems hard to believe. Today’s number is about 65! We’ve been wine tasting here for a long time, but even we can’t piece together exactly which 5 wineries they were. If you know, please share in a comment below!
When I present a class on Monterey County wines, I also like to talk about the affordability of going wine tasting here. Tasting fees tend to average about $20-$25 for a flight of 5 wines. And it is very easy to get to most of our wineries.
From the Corral Wine Co website: “Corral Wine Company is a production of Bell Family Vineyards. In 2017, in a barn in Corral de Tierra, California, we barreled our first batch of estate Pinot Noir. We’re still in that same barn, but we’ve made even more varietals from some of the best grapes on the Central Coast. We’re a family-owned operations – we’re not fancy, but we make good wine.” This is the first time I have presented a Corral wine in a wine education class! Finally!!
About Parsonage: Bill and Mary Parsons planted the seven-acre Parsonage Village Vineyard in June 1998, with their first harvest in 2000. The vineyard is planted to 3 ½ acres of Syrah, 2 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, 1 acre of Merlot and 1/2 acre of Petit Verdot. Starting at a meager 200 cases back in 2000, annual production today is in the 1500-2000 case range. The Parsons were the first to plant Syrah in Carmel Valley and their wines are the reason I am now a big Syrah fan. Their wines are mostly big and bold reds.
Today I am presenting just the 2 wines. As usual, winery notes come from the tasting sheet, the winery website, or tasting room staff. Any errors are mine or mine alone.
Winery Notes: “Vibrant aromas of guava and grapefruit dominate with fresh cut hay, lemon blossom and wet stone. Racing acidity with a pleasant minerality.”
My Review: Golden and viscous in the glass. Grilled pineapple, citrus blossom and guava on the fragrant nose. Rich palate of tropical flavors, a touch of sweetness, with minerality on the finish – very nice. February 2023
Parsonage 2019 Estate Syrah, Carmel Valley AVA, 15% ABV, $48(#944)
Winery Notes: “Our specialty varietal, full of dark fruit & white pepper with a robust palate…2-week fermentation, 30 months (longer than usual due to supply chain issues) in 9 medium plus toast French oak barrels, 2 new. 2 barrels of the final blend were from “Carmelstone” and the rest, lower Syrah plantings, including 1 barrel with lots of Rocco (reserve) fruit. Pretty exquisite.”
Parsonage Estate Syrah Vines
My Review: Inky red, almost purple in color. Spice on the nose with white pepper and Concord grape notes. Super rich palate of dark fruit, delicious, jammy fruit, with some eucalyptus on the finish. February 2023
You can taste and purchase these wines at their respective tasting rooms located next to each other at 19 East Carmel Valley Rd.,Carmel Valley Village. For the latest on hours and reservations, please check their websites:
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