Today marks the third anniversary of Decanting Monterey, A Central Coast Wine Blog! And what a year it has been! With 291 wines presented and reaching over 10,000 views, we have a lot to celebrate. Please read to the end for today’s small ask.
OUR HISTORY
Deep in the unvaccinated period of the pandemic in July 2020, Decanting Monterey was founded on wines from our own collection sampled at home, with or without our neighboring friends and our daughters, who quickly became known as the COVID Wine Pod. It was 2 posts per week and, mostly, one wine at a time. Back then, some wineries had just reopened with their COVID procedures and we still weren’t venturing out much. I also established the @decantingmonterey Facebook page.
During Year 2, as we became fully vaccinated and boosted – and double boosted, we were able to get out to more local wineries at a more deliberate pace. And the COVID Wine Pod was renamed the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod! I also moved to a single post per week and presented a single wine class to my old DC wine group. Most of the posts were based on event-driven or winery tastings and fewer individual, cellar-driven posts. And I started the @decanting_monterey Instagram feed.
During Year 3, I began to get recognition as an entity with some stature behind it:
I have some high-level stats to share with you about Year Three of Decanting Monterey!
www.decantingmonterey.com hit the 10,000 “views” mark! This statistic is very important to me. If you are seeing my blog on social media or via email, please be sure to click the link and open it!
291 wines were presented on Decanting Monterey for the first time.
207 red wines were presented, as well as 62 whites, 20 rosés, and a couple of oranges – including 6 sparkling and 2 fortified wines.
Over 39 distinct varietals were presented with Pinot Noir topping the list thanks to the SLH festival I attended, followed closeky by Red Blends, and Syrah – no surprise if you know me!
Wines from 12 California counties are represented, with 181 from Monterey, 30 from Santa Barbara, 20 from San Benito, 15 from Santa Cruz, 11 from San Luis Obispo, 9 from San Benito – and more! Plus 12 wines from Italy!
Wines from 6 of the 9 Monterey American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) were covered, capturing 39 varietals!
I Brand was the most represented family of wines, followed by Parsonage. I attribute that to the steady and wonderful release events offered by I Brand & Family wines. Parsonage was one of the first local wineries to put Monterey wines squarely on our consumption radar way back when. Their wines match my palate perfectly – what else can I say?
While I have some posts already queued up for Year 3, let me ask my mighty readers: Where should I visit next? Please leave me a comment on this post and let me know what some of your favorite, local places are to wine taste that I should not miss in Year 3! I have a list of not-yet-covered wine tasting rooms and other wine venues to check out – happy to add to it. I don’t know what I don’t know.
SUBSCRIBE
And, if you have not signed up for my free, weekly blog email, I encourage you to do so – the subscription button is on the right-hand side of each page of the Decanting Monterey website. I judge how well I am doing by how many views, subscribers, and comments I receive. Please help me spread the word and please feel free to comment on my posts! And follow my Facebook (@decantingmonterey) and Instagram (@decanting_monterey) sites.
OUR SUPPORTERS
I am grateful to Chesebro, Bernardus, Bunter Spring, Idle Hour, Pierce Ranch and Rombi for their generosity this year in donated wines or discounts. Grateful to Kim Stemler and the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association for their support – what a great resource! And to Erin O’Reilly of tèr·ra·ve·nosfor her partnership and advice as we navigate this world of wine. I remain grateful to those vintners who have comped me wine tastings, given me discounts, and especially those who have comped me bottles of wine! And, of course, the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod!
DONATE
Now, to my ask:
As my avid readers know, Decanting Montereyis a self-funded labor of love to help educate others about our local vintners and their wines. The only “compensation” I receive is free tastings (most places), discounted purchases, an occasional comped bottle, and, most importantly, the appreciation of our vintners. While I do this, I protect your data from being sold or used by anyone other than for my own website statistics. Here is my Privacy Policy.
As I come up on my 3-year renewal of my website, I am asking my readers to consider making a small donation to keep this effort going. I donate my time, energy, knowledge, and to date personally have funded this website and my wine education travel expenses.
Here is what it takes to make Decanting Monterey run:
$1200-2400/year in travel expenses (airfare, car rental only)
While this blog is open and free, donations to this not-for-profit effort are always welcomein any amount! You can donate here: Donate to Decanting Monterey. All donations go toward the operation of this website and to offset travel expenses for out of area wine classes. Even the smallest amount would be greatly appreciated.
So, here we go – Year 4! This should be an even better one! Thanks for your support to me on this crazy journey.
Last week, I had the opportunity to present Monterey wines to my old wine group one more time. It is always an honor to be asked back. I do this class about once a year and am always glad to see my old wine friends. What I didn’t expect was almost a full house! There were a lot of new faces in the room – including my daughter and a few of her friends.
But – before I go on, Decanting Monterey has hit another milestone: 10,000 views! This is huge! I have each and every one of my readers to thank for this achievement. I appreciate you so much.
What do I look for in a local wine to present? First of all, quality – it has to be a very tasty, good quality wine. But, right along with taste is its price. The wine budgets for these nonprofit classes are always tight. As wine and shipping prices rise, these get harder and harder to pull off. You see, I don’t want to present them grocery store wines. And I don’t just want to present good value wines. Rather, I like to present delicious wines from wineries I know directly. I like the personal aspect of developing relationships and sharing stories. And I like the challenge of the hunt to find the very best wines to fit the budget. This time, I presented two Gold Medal wines – the audience really loved that. And the fact that most of our local wineries will ship out of state is a plus – the audience can go directly to the winery and order more.
Our local wineries are always quite generous to me. They give me steep discounts on their wine (sometimes they donate wine, even!) in return for me giving their wines visibility to a new audience. I’m so grateful. Shipping was probably the biggest wildcard this year. It varied from a winery that could give me a deal ($30) on shipping to those who can’t catch a break (over $70!). I considered checking out a big box store there to see what they carry, but that runs counter to my m.o. I also keep the audience in mind: I don’t like presenting an expensive class, but the high attendance last week for the most expensive class I have presented to date shows I should worry less about this.
I’m already starting to think how I will put together another class for them next year. I am watching the sales and shipping bargains. It is too soon and too hot to ship now, but the wheels are turning. Readers: Got any recommendations?? Please comment!
THE CLASS ITSELF
I start these classes by ensuring everyone knows where Monterey County is – about 2 hours south of San Francisco and just north of the Paso Robles wine growing area. I talk about the fact we are a cool wine growing region, thanks to the influence of the frigid and deep Monterey Bay. I talk about the Thermal Rainbow® – our grapevines which expeirence high valley temperatures during the summer days are brought relief by the afternoon winds coming off the bay which both stress and cool the vines – with accompanying fog to keep them from getting too cold overnight.
I give them our stats, which I obtain from the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association website – my go-to website for everything Monterey wine. I also read the crop reports myself (funny, no one else in the room reads crop reports 😊). I noted our grape-growing acreage has dropped a bit (perhaps from the wildfires?), dropping us to the 5th largest in the state, just behind Napa. And that we remain the largest producer of Chardonnay in the U.S. and the largest producer of Pinot Noir in California. I mentioned the recent Santa Lucia Highlands Sun, Wind & Wine Festival event and highlighted how many of the wineries present were from outside the county (more to come on that event in the upcoming weeks). Some 50% of our grapes are purchased from outside the county.
I like to present wines from our different Monterey County American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). For the first time I presented one from San Antonio Valley AVA, which gave me a great launching point on our wine growing origins starting in the 1770s with the Franciscan missionaries. And, from there, our history as to how we got to modern winemaking in the region.
In the last couple of years, I have added a section on climate change to my presentations. We talk about the devastating impact of the wildfires in 2020, the heat spike just before harvest in 2022, and all that rain this past winter. It’s real, folks.
I highlight the ease and affordability of coming to Monterey to taste wine. Armed with our tasting room brochures provided by Kim Stemler of the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association, I invite them all to visit.
In this class, I focused on three wine growing areas in the county: Arroyo Seco, San Antonio Valley, and one “technically” from Monterey. Much of the information below is distilled from the AVA website above.
I have presented Arroyo Seco AVA wines to them many times before, which literally means “dry riverbed.” With maps available on the tables, I was able to describe the steep, narrow gorge, where Bordeaux varietals prosper, opening out to the Salinas Valley floor, more appropriate for Burgundian varietals. Arroyo Seco experiences harsh weather conditions varying from warm days to windy, foggy and cold nights. I mostly enjoy the white wines from Arroyo Seco, but I have been pleasantly surprised by bold and big reds produced from grapes in the gorge as well as from the valley floor. In this class, I presented wines from Chesebro, Corral, and Shale Canyon – both from the valley floor and the gorge.
It was my pleasure to be able to bring them a wine from the San Antonio Valley AVA for the first time. Although it is one of the oldest wine growing areas in California, it is one of the youngest AVAs in Monterey County, established in 2006. A mere 25 miles north of Paso Robles, it is in the southern part of the county, nestled in the foothills of the Santa Lucia Range. It has great variance in elevation – from 580 to 2800 feet, and its soils are primarily gravelly loam and clay. Due to its warmer climate, it is an excellent growing area for full-bodied Rhône, Bordeaux, as well as Portuguese & Spanish, varietals.
The last wine growing area I presented was the Monterey AVA, in this case a bit of a catch-all. As vintner Mark Bunter is quoted as saying, “In one of the many examples of AVA nonsense, this vineyard, a mile outside Carmel Valley Village, isn’t in the Carmel Valley AVA, although vineyards 10 miles away, in Cachagua valley, are. So legally it’s not Carmel Valley wine, it’s Monterey wine. Whatever.” A new Carmel Coast AVA is coming soon to capture this gap!
LET’S TALK ABOUT THE WINES!
In today’s post, I will showcase the 5 wines presented in my class. Winery notes come from their tasting sheets, the bottles, and/or their websites. My notes are from my previous tastings of these wines. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
CHESEBRO: “With lots of 300 cases or less, and a penchant for offbeat, as well as mainstream varietals, Chesebro’s production may be small, but the effort is prolific. We are passionate about true varietal expression, as well as preserving the unique voice of each vineyard site, from soil to glass. All of our wines are made solely from our vineyards in the Arroyo Seco and Carmel Valley AVA’s.
“This connection to every every aspect from vine to bottle allows us to keep our quality high and prices affordable. Our commitment to wines of distinction will be evident from your first visit to our casual and welcoming tasting room in beautiful Carmel Valley Village. Come find out what artisan wines, lovingly farmed and made by hand, truly taste like.”
2020 Chesebro Vermentino, Cedar Lane Vineyard, Arroyo Seco AVA, 13.1 ABV, $23 (#991)
Winery Notes: “A unique Italian (and French) white variety typically found in Corsica, Sardina and Liguira. Smooth and light on the palate with mouthwatering acidity. It is aromatically complex with citrus, herbal and often floral notes. Versatile and fresh it can be a great pairing with many lighter dishes such as poultry, fish, vegetables and fresh cheeses.”
My Notes: Straw in the glass. Perfume of apricot and citrus blossom on the nose. Crisp palate with apple and pear flavors with a slightly bitter grapefruit/lime twist on the finish. (March 2023)
CORRAL WINE CO: “Corral Wine Company is a production of Bell Family Vineyards. In 2017, in a barn in Corral de Tierra, California, we barreled our first batch of estate Pinot Noir. We’re still in that same barn, but we’ve made even more varietals from some of the best grapes on the Central Coast.”
Winery Notes: “Vibrant aromas of guava & grapefruit dominate with fresh cut hay, lemon blossom and wet stone. Racing acidity with a pleasant minerality.”
My Review: Golden and viscous in the glass. Grilled pineapple, citrus blossom and guava on the fragrant nose. Rich palate of tropical flavors, a touch of sweetness, with minerality on the finish – very nice. February 2023 (At the event itself, we experienced bottle variation. I have used this wine in other classes before with no issues. I have tasted this wine subsequent to this class and it was perfectly fine.)
SHALE CANYON WINES: Current production is ~1000+ cases/year. Arroyo Seco. They grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Petite Sirah & Mourvèdre. Making classic and unique blends, such as our current favorite ZSM: Zinfandel, Syrah & Mourvèdre.
Winery Notes: “Best of Class and Best of Show for $31 to $50 range at the 2023 4th annual International Cabernet Franc Competition! Our 2017 Estate Cabernet Franc starts with aromas of dark fruit, slight oak and a touch of floral. A complex wine with flavors of dark cherry, dark berry and cassis. A finish of vanilla with a hint of leather and medium firm tannins.
“Cabernet Franc is one of the world’s top 20 most popular grape varieties. Recent DNA testing has proven it to be an ancestor to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carmenère and Malbec. It is so popular that is has its own “wine” holiday, International Cabernet Day is celebrated August 30th.”
My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. A sweet blackberry nose. Smooth and yummy palate of dark, lean fruit. Very balanced. This wine was a huge hit in the wine class, including my own daughter asking that we ship her a case! I’m working on it. March 2023
PIERCE RANCH VINEYARDS: “The story behind Pierce Ranch Vineyards is a love story of wine shared amongst friends and our beloved community. It starts in the iconic vineyards of southern Monterey County’s San Antonio Valley appellation in the year 2000. There is a depth to the terrain that exposes the remarkable quality of the region. A small, family-owned affair, we bring a sentimental spirit to viniculture, to honoring the land, and to cultivating and harvesting the grapes in the late summer and fall. The romanticism of crush and the sweeping vineyards flows into our cozy tasting room. What began as a cottage house built in 1915 has become a space where our community meets in the magical garden and rustic indoor setting to taste the ambrosial wine with a unique focus on Portuguese and Spanish varieties. It’s a love story that never ends, poetry in a bottle that starts with respect of the land and the community by never using herbicides and only using native yeasts with minimal intervention. It is a dedication to the vines and attention to the grapes so they continue to thrive with the years.”
2017 Pierce Ranch Tempranillo, San Antonio Valley AVA, 13.1% ABV, $28 (#236)
Winery Notes: “Native of the Rioja, product of our Panhandle and Y Ranch Vineyard plantings. Received a Gold/Best Tempranillo award in Monterey County.”
My Review: Beautiful garnet in the glass with plum and violet notes. Has come into its time: rich finish of dark fruit, coca cola, licorice and cassis. While not the biggest Tempranillo around, it is delicious and drinking very well. I should have presented this wine before the Cabernet Franc, as it was overshadowed by that huge wine. March 2023
BUNTER SPRING WINERY: “Bunter Spring Winery is a small family operated winery in the Coombsville AVA in the southeast corner of Napa Valley. We also have some production in Monterey. Most vintages we make a few hundred cases of wine, mostly for ourselves, but also for sale to friends on our mailing list, and a few restaurants and wine shops. Why make wine? We just don’t care for many of the wines sold today. We make the kind of wine we want to drink: balanced, interesting, made with few or no additives, and low or no sulfite. We list all ingredients, the actual sulfite level, and the actual alcohol level on every label. Incredibly, NO OTHER WINERY DOES THAT…”
Winery Notes: “You can drink this with burgers, too, or with nothing at all, but it’s really good with pizza and spicy pasta. Aged sixteen months in American oak barrels. Ingredients: grapes, water, yeast, tartaric acid, sulfite. Not filtered, not fined. At bottling: total sulfite 52 ppm, residual sugar 0.3 g/l (dry).”
“In this vineyard, rows marked “Zinfandel” are promiscuously punctuated with Syrah and other varieties. Monterey is hardly a byword to Zin groupies, and the wine struck me as intensely fruit punchy but otherwise didn’t remind me much of Zinfandel, so I finished the job they started in the vineyard, and blended in more Syrah, to get a deeper, darker wine, with fuller body yet less alcohol. Yes, less alcohol. Believe it or not.” 16 months in once-used American oak barrels.
My Review: Very dark in color. Sweet dark fruit and perfume on the nose. Jammy dark berries and a touch of alcohol on the palate. This wine was favorably received by the class and is one of my favorites. It’s not as sophisticated as some of his other wines, but, as a ‘Zin groupie” living in Monterey, I appreciate it. I have presented this wine in 2 of my DC-area classes. June 2022
Our Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society is continuing to grow, making it challenging to find a spot for our first Friday “WinedUP” tastings. A lot of our local tasting rooms are small. I have been trying to find places with larger tasting rooms to allow more of our members to participate. It won’t always be possible, but I have found a few for this Spring. One of the first places I thought of was Georis. It has a stunning space – indoors and out.
The Georis Winery tasting room manager, Ivan Cornejo-Martinez, was great to work with. He was very kind and flexible – we worked together to keep the event as simple as possible, limiting the number of extra staff and glasses he would need to have on hand. It was nice to learn we could have done catered food or ordered in from Corkscrew Café across the street, as well. In the end, we decided to reserve those options for future events.
It had been a chilly day on the coast, so despite driving through a spot of rain to get to the valley, we were thrilled that it was sunny and even warm! When we entered their spacious tasting room, we were delighted to find 3 tasting options: Chilled (sparkling and white wines), the Grand Mix (which includes a white, a rose and 3 reds) and the Estate (all big reds). They started us with a special wine: the 2009 Deux Frères Merlot/Malbec blend – a great way to kick off the evening. The name of the wine refers to the two Georis brothers, Walter and Gaston, who sadly passed away last year. The tasting room staff Ivan, Daisy and James were extremely knowledgeable about the wines and did a terrific job taking each of us through our tastings. I hope to go back soon with the rest of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod.
Check with the winery, as their tasting menu and prices do change!
From the Georis winery’s webpage: “Walter Georis was born of a Belgian father and a German mother who immigrated to the US from Belgium in 1956 when Walter was eleven years old. After having spent his teen years in Southern California, Walter decided to move north to Carmel where he pursued a career in fine arts. Soon after arriving in Carmel, Walter designed a family restaurant, Casanova that would become internationally renowned for its cuisine and style, and its wine cellar. Remembering his childhood and the pleasures of country life on the family farms in Europe, Walter decided to combine his love of fine wines with the challenges and rewards of growing grapes and producing first class wines. In 1981, after consulting with French experts on soil and wine making, he bought a ranch in Carmel Valley and soon planted the grapes that would produce the first crop of Georis wines…
“The vineyard is located in the mountains of the upper Carmel Valley, California, 20 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Our 14 acre vineyard is planted to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Pinot Noir grapes. Our terroir is sandy clay loam with gravel and river rocks. Some small vineyard areas include chalky soils…
“Since 1982, Georis Winery proudly produces a variety of wines exceptional in quality. Georis wines represent authenticity, integrity and a commitment to terroir expressive wines. Our philosophy is to respect European wine-making traditions while embracing the generous California climate of our appellation. Our objective is to craft wines with complexity, elegance and finesse.”
Today I am presenting 12 Georis wines which we tasted at the AWS event. Winery notes come from their website or conversations with tasting room staff. Any errors are mine and mine alone. Sometimes I am distracted by others or feel rushed in the tasting and can’t get the notes I truly want. I’ll have to go back. After all, this is a social event!
2009 Georis Deux Frères, Carmel Valley AVA (#963)
Winemaker’s Notes: ~80% Merlot, ~20% Malbec
My Review: Ruby in the glass. Some soft sandalwood notes on the nose. Light on the palate. This well aged wine is coming into its own. April 2023
Winemaker’s Notes: From Tessiere Vineyard in Arroyo Seco. ~12 months in neutral oak.
My Review: This is one of those great, dry Rieslings from Arroyo Seco. Citrus flavors balanced by salty minerality. Sweet flavors of honeysuckle or white citrus blossom complete the finish. I described this wine as reminiscent of taking a tequila shot followed by the salt and lime – all in a very delicious package. April 2023
2021 Georis Les Abeilles Rosé, Carmel Valley AVA, $42 (#965)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Elegant and crisp Cabernet Franc based Rosè. Medium bodied and dry. Raspberry, peach candy, cantaloupe, and jasmine.”
My Review: This was a very nice wine, probably one of the best Central Coast Rosé wines I have tasted lately. Dry, delicately flavored, balanced, perfect in all ways. Very traditional. April 2023
Winemaker’s Notes: Aged in 20% French barrels for 12 months. The fruit comes from our estate vineyard in Carmel Valley.
My Review: Light in the glass with perfume on the nose. To me, this did not come off as one of those buttery Chardonnays. Balanced. A lean, lighter weight wine than I was expecting. April 2023
Winemaker’s Notes: “Full bodied and earthy. Smooth, soft tannin with a lingering finish. Blueberry, cherry, forest floor and violet. 554 Cases produced.”
My Review: A brown tinge in the color with very typical aromas and flavors of a Central Coast Pinot Noir. April 2023
2017 Georis Estate Les Amoureaux Pinot Noir, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $65 (#968)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Full bodied and earthy. Smooth, soft tannin with a lingering finish. Blueberry, cherry, forest floor and violet. 554 Cases produced.”
My Review: This was the very last wine I tasted on the way out the door. A new participant at the AWS tasting told me that I really needed to try it. I found it to be fuller bodied and a Pinot Noir even this Pinot Noir naysayer could really enjoy. Sorry I did not capture better tasting notes! April 2023
2017 Georis Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 13.5% ABV, $40 (#969)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Very soft and acid driven with notes of cherry, leather, and roasted pepper. Fantastic progression from the front to the back of the palate with a bright acidic finish.” From the Donati Family Vineyard in Paicines.
My Review Powered by Terravenos: Herbaceous, violet, and lots of mid-palate structure with mild tobacco notes on the finish. April 2023
2017 Georis Merlot, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.8% ABV, $40 (#54)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Rich and bold yet elegant with sumptuous aromas of mocha, savory chocolate, and black berry fruits. The palate is extremely generous with hints of young berry, black berry, black spices, and silky tannins.”
My Review Powered by Terravenos: OK, we are finally in my wheelhouse! This is one of the early wines I reviewed in Decanting Monterey. Ruby/purple in color with plum/blackberry and “Fig Newton” on the nose with rose petal, black cherry and overripe strawberry notes on the palate. Since I first reviewed this wine almost 3 years ago, the tannins have smoothed out. A very delicious, big wine which is drinking very well. April 2023
2017 Georis “La Chapelle” Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $80 (#970)
Winemaker’s Notes: Our annual Bordeaux blend, the 2017 vintage is 80% Merlot, 10% Petite Verdot and 10% Malbec.
My Review: A nice, dark berry bouquet with the nose carrying over to the palate. Very smooth with the fruit well integrated. I liked this wine. April 2023
Winemaker’s Notes: “Powerful ruby colored with great nose of dark fruit, plum, and blackberry. Smooth elegant middle with silky tannins and a chalky finish. A dominate palate with savory notes such as dates, fennel, tobacco leaf, and leather.”
My Review: Warm, dark fruit on the nose. This is a good Cabernet Sauvignon from the premier growing area for Cabernet in Monterey County – Cachagua. This has good structure and lots of tannin – this will last for years to come. Buy some and cellar! April 2023
2017 Georis “Clos des Moutons” Red Blend, Carmel Valley AVA, 13.8% ABV, $90 (#972)
Winemaker’s Notes: Our single vineyard selection, aged 26 months in French oak barrels. Think leathery, plum, and tobacco flavors. ~80% Merlot, ~20% Petit Verdot
My Review: Nose of rosemary. Cherry and berry flavors on the palate. Complex structure. This is another great wine. April 2023
2017 Georis Estate “Malbec Du Milieux”, Carmel Valley AVA, $75 (#973)
Winemaker’s Notes: A single vineyard of 5 acres of 40-year-old Malbec vines. Aged 24 months in French barrels.”
My Review: Warm, jammy fruit on the nose. It is a surprising mix of sweet jamminess and tart fruits like raspberry and cherry. I found this wine intriguing – and a great one to end the tasting on a very high note. April 2023
Georis Tasting Room: Located at 1 Pilot Road, Carmel Valley Village. Open Wednesday – Monday from 12:00 – 6:00 pm with the exception of the weather and holidays. (831) 659-1080. “We greatly appreciate a call if will be joining us with a large group, we want your experience to be delightful while drinking some of California’s best.”
The Decanting Monterey Wine Pod looks forward to an I Brand & Family release party – a tradition for us. There is always something surprising to taste. And the most recent one in March was no exception. It is a great opportunity to taste the new releases in a festive and relaxed setting. In addition to their consistently great Albariño, standouts at this event were the Chenin Blanc from Carmel Valley and the Pinot Noir (yes, I said Pinot Noir!) from Cienega Valley, plus the most unique Cabernet Pfeffer, also from Cienega Valley. The food and entertainment were both high quality. Oysters and small bites were provided by Oystertown and the music, by El Pacado de Juana.
I have learned there is no rush to taste the wines at these events. There is plenty of time to experience a wine fully (color, nose, body, flavors, finish), compare notes with the wine pod, and dump the rest so I can get us home safely. Then comes the great part: deciding which wines we will take home!
I have 8 wines to present to you today from 3 labels: I Brand & Family, La Marea and Paysan – tasted at the release party. Winery notes come from their Spring 2023 Winemaker Letter or their website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. I used the full notes, as this blog is about wine education and I find them so interesting! I used the microphone in my phone to transcribe the long, descriptive paragraphs. I think I corrected the sometimes-amusing text it recorded (had a hard time with Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Pfeffer, but igot Tellicherry and Cachagua right the first time), but, as always, any errors are mine and mine alone.
2022 La Marea Kristy Vineyard Albariño, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $24 (#955)
Winemaker’s Notes: “At this point, what’s left to say about our Kristy’s Vineyard Albariño? We began making Albariño in 2011 to test our theory that the Salinas Valley was best suited to saline, mineral-driven, high acid whites. Steve McIntyre, the gentle caporegime of Monterey County winegrowing, pointed us to several options but said he thought Kristy’s was the best quality. By 2013 we were pretty much locked in on our winemaking program. We tried varying our winemaking a couple of times since then but have always come back to the original because it just works. 2/3 direct press, 1/3 skin contact for two days. Cold fermented in stainless steel, arrested malic. We’ve been told several times this is the standard for aromatic whites in the new world. The biggest issue is, with the drought, yields have been down on the vineyard. We just don’t have enough of this wine. The 2022 vintage is full of intensity and bright acidity, combining the open fruit flavors of the 19 and the direct bite of 2020. A spectacular wine.
“Tasting Notes – Aromas of white nectarine and honeysuckle abound. Bright acidity leads on the palate framed by a redolence of underripe pineapple and stone fruit, which persist and blend with wet river rock on the finish.”
My Review: Straw in the glass. Nose of bright citrus, balanced by the sweetness of honeydew melon. A tasty palate with grapefruit zest on the finish. Super fresh. March 2023
2022 Paysan Zabala Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $24 (#956)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Maybe five years ago, I told my friend Eben Drucker that Sauvignon Blanc would soon be on the rise. Eben has helped us with national and international sales of our brands for almost ten years and had been mixed up in the wine business for twice that. Sauvignon Blanc was at its nadir, totally disregarded in the wake of Kim Crawford and grassy New Zealand mass production. I saw the quality of the vineyards in the ground, the budding renaissance of Sancerre on east coast wine lists, and whispers on the hippier edge of California winemaking oddly about a variety associated with country clubs and gala balls. We had been getting our toes wet in Sauvignon Blanc for a consulting project and I was closing in on an idea for a wine. We worked on the idea for a couple of years in small lots and, in 2021, we made the leap and took the bulk of the vineyard. It sold like hotcakes, and we expect the same with the 2022 vintage. The Zabala Vineyard is among the rockiest you’ll see, resplendent with river stones, reminiscent of the galets roulés of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Sauvignon Blanc at Zabala is the Sauvignon Musqué variation, which means the wine has more fruit notes, especially ripe melon.
“Tasting Notes – Satsuma Mandarin and herbaceous notes of fresh-cut chives, tarragon, and wet limestone shine brightly up front. The attack on the palate is bright and distinctly tropical dragonfruit and papaya, evolving into dry citrus flavors reminiscent of Buddha’s hand.”
My Review: Straw in color. Perfume on the nose. Rich flavors on the palate with notes of green pepper. One in our group thought it was a touch harsh. March 2023
Winemaker’s Notes: “Over the last few vintages, our rosé has become more Mourvèdre focused, lending the wine more depth and intensity despite its pale color. With roughly 4 hours of skin contact across the lots, the 2022 has a pale, almost vin gris hue, but don’t be fooled. Hiding beneath that hint of pink is deep, textured wine. Both the Arroyo Seco Canyon Vineyard and the Siletto Vineyard are rocky and the minerality shows through. Extremely pleasurable to drink, we expect this to be peaking just as the summer heat hits. I’m in love with the new package. If you have a porch or patio, you need some of this rosé.
“Tasting Notes: Initial aromas of watermelon and cantaloupe are inescapable, transitioning to trailside strawberry with a touch of air. Melons and strawberries persist on the palate, and bright red fruits continue into the finish transforming into a pleasing strawberry-basil herbaceous salinity.”
My Review: Very pale pink in the glass. A nice, rich rose nose out-promises the delicate palate of white peach with a watermelon finish. Based on the writeup above, this wine deserves a revisit! March 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Massa Vineyard Chenin Blanc, Carmel Valley AVA, Monterey County, 13.5% ABV, $36 (#958)
Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our first year working with the Chenin Blanc off Massa, (née Durney) in the Cachagua region of the upper Carmel River Basin. Planted on its own roots fifty years previous, these vines can now be called old vines, (per the Historic Vineyard Society). They produced a stunning Chenin Blanc: racy and intense. We held ours back an additional six months in bottle to allow it to flesh out. The Massa Vineyard is a special place. Still very much a rough diamond, I have seen the most stunning wines emerge from the vineyard – on par with vineyards known internationally. We made a mere 44 cases of this wine and more than half will go out to the initial club release. If you would like multiple bottles, please contact us promptly.
“Tasting Notes – Aromas of flint, toasted brioche and lemon verbena are immediately present. These flavors follow onto the palate, incorporating drier, flavors of green walnuts and more brioche; beautiful floral notes reminiscent of lavender and lilac grace the dry finish.”
My Review: Pretty, light yellow in the glass. Clean nose. Lovely, full bodied palate of fresh fruit, with peach and citrus flavors, balanced by brioche and salty notes. Our favorite of the tasting. March 2023
2020 I Brand & Family Besson Vineyard – Old Vine Grenache, Santa Clara Valley AVA, 13.5% ABV, $42 (#959)
Winemaker’s Notes: “This is our ninth iteration coming from the centenarian Grenache vines cared for by the Besson family since the 1940s. We’ve settled into a nice place with the winemaking and the wines grow into deep, thoughtful ruminations on time and place as they settle into the bottle. For those who have a chance to drive by the classic vineyard (it’s right across from Gilroy Gardens on Hecker Pass Highway heading west from Gilroy) the third generation of the Besson Family has started a small brand and you can taste their wine amid the old soldiers. We share these blocks with our good friends, winery mates and longtime fellow travelers, John and Alex from Birichino. Over the years they’ve sold small amounts to old-vine lions of California wine like Ridge, Sandlands, and A Tribute to Grace. We keep our allocation from the rockiest section next to Uvas Creek and produce it with spontaneous fermentations, 50% whole cluster, a touch of French oak influence and sixteen months on lees in barrel. It’s the same recipe we’ve used since 2014 and we keep it consistent because it really works with the site and because with consistent winemaking you can really see vintages expressed over time. The 2020 vintage was beset by high smoke covering the sun for extended periods and so the wine is less boisterous but more deep and textured at this early stage. This is always a star in our tasting room.
“Tasting Notes – Ripe red fruit, specifically red delicious apples, fresh pressed cider and savory hints of manzanita and Tellicherry peppercorn abound on the nose. The palate is similarly bright with additional herbaceous notes of fresh tarragon. This quickly evolving wine wraps up with distinct tannins and aromatic pine duff.”
My Review: 112-year-old vines! Garnet in color. Perfume, plum and cherry on the nose. A good, mid-weight, bright wine with cherry notes and a little leather on the finish. March 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Flint Vineyard Pinot Noir, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 13.4% ABV, $36 (#960)
Winemaker’s Notes: “We’ve gained a reputation locally as Pinot Noir naysayers, which isn’t fair. We love Pinot Noir and I made my fair share of it when I worked in the Santa Cruz Mountains (and I still make a great deal for special projects). Because of that experience, we’re very particular about where we get our Pinot Noir from, which makes sense as Pinot Noir is very particular about where it grows well. We re-entered the Pinot Noir fray to prove a point. So much discussion in Pinot Noir winemaker circles focuses on how cold the vineyard is and what clones are used. When we worked with the Enz Vineyard, the Pinot Noir felt like a red-headed step child because the vineyard was warm, without consideration for how wonderful the site is. I am of the opinion that a great site always speaks most strongly, so we took the fruit. I was elated by the response. After the relationship with the Enz family imploded, we moved around the corner to Scott Flint‘s place. Scott is a really kind and super interesting guy. He used to make his own wine but now spends his days restoring old tractors. We used a 1946 Ford forklift to load the bins. If the bin is a little heavy, it gets difficult because the front tires don’t want to stay on the ground and that makes it tough to steer. Scott’s vineyard is at the base of Mount Harlan, home to Calera, and because the cold air sinks off the mountain onto his property it buds out late and picks about a month later than Enz and a couple of weeks later than the ‘cool climate’ Santa Lucia Highlands. All things in wine and viticulture are relative, there are no hard truths. The Flint bears the signature of the special mixed granitic and calcareous soils of the Cienega combined with the darker red fruits and cherry compote character of a cool climate pinot noir. 2021 was just a special vintage and willowy Pinot Noir often shows vintage variation more readily than other grapes. Lovely.”
“Tasting Notes – Notes of cedar and dried porcini mushrooms are present on the nose, subtly melding with undertones of cherry preserves. The palate is well-integrated but complex. The preserved cherries come back into play, evolving into the warm cherry pie flavors typical of pinot noir. Bright acidity wraps things up and leaves you with baking spices and vanilla bean.”
My Review: Rich ruby in the glass. Light cherry on the nose. Rich palate, balanced and delicious, with tobacco on the finish. Not a Pinot Noir drinker, but I like this wine. Promises to be an exceptional wine. We bought this to cellar, as we have with other reserve Pinot Noirs from this region, with excellent results. March 2023
2021 I Brand & Family Gimelli Vineyard Cabernet Pfeffer, Cienega Valley AVA, San Benito County, 12.8% ABV, $36 (#961)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Only about 10 acres of Cabernet Pfeffer exist in the world, and most all of it is in San Benito County. The Gimelli Vineyard encompasses the remnants of the El Gabilan Vineyard, first planted in the 1890s in Grass Valley, a side canyon off the Cienega Valley on the east side of the Gabilan cordillera. Cabernet Pfeffer was rumored to be a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Trousseau made by San Jose nurseryman, William Pfeffer in the 19th century, but that story is apocryphal. Ken Ryan Kobza, our winery tsar, has been making Cabernet Pfeffer for the better part of a decade. We sent petiole samples to UC Davis five years ago and they matched most closely with a long-forgotten grape variety from the southwest of France called Mourtaou. Either way, Cabernet Pfeffer is a rare beast. Not fruity in the way California wine is alleged to always be, Cabernet Pfeffer is dominated by savory, umami flavors, like a cigar box and teriyaki. Special and super interesting, this is the only year we will make a single-varietal Cabernet Pfeffer. We’re proud to share this little slice of local history.
“Tasting notes – Our Cabernet Pfeffer smells like a humidor, with bold notes of cedar and sweet tobacco. This sweet and savory notes translate as unctuous teriyaki on the palate, quickly incorporating notes of spicy ancho chili on the mid-palate and closing with a hint of tart raspberry. Well-integrated tannins wrap up the experience.”
My Review: Garnet in color. Bouquet of enticing sweetness, balanced by cinnamon spice. A bright palate with cranberry notes. It is lean, medium bodied and unique, rare. We took one home. I hope we will cellar it for a bit. March 2023
2020 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Syrah, Chalone AVA, Monterey County, 14.8% ABV, $36 (#962)
Winemaker’s Notes: “The 2020 Graff Syrah came early in the heat of 2020, which was fortuitous because it avoided the worst of the smoke. These vines are now more than 30 years old, farmed immaculately since their planting by the ace duo of Hector and Jose Bravo. This one, to me, shows with Chalone can be – it’s among the most compelling places to grow wine in America. Granitic brightness meets suave limestone texture, stems, and the blood iron that always emerges in great Syrahs. 80% whole cluster, 18 months on lees, another 8 months in bottle before release.
“Tasting notes – Earthy, meaty notes of peppered beef jerky. Graphite and clay transition into a savory mix of fire-roasted tomato confit and guajillo chili, which evolve into dark fruit reminiscent of a spiced blueberry compote ending with cumin and cardamom on the finish.”
My Review: Rich, dark garnet. Spice and earth on the nose. Dark berries and earth on the palate. March 2023
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
Last week, I posted about a rainy day Idle Hour tasting. In addition to Idle Hour, Mark Bunter of Bunter Spring Winery (finally) showed up with his wines and Lenora Carey of Big Sur Vineyards also poured some of hers – including a limited release Pinot Noir made by…Mark Bunter! We had arrived early for Idle Hour and were just about ready to leave when these wineries showed up, so I only have 3 wines to present today. In addition, we re-tasted Bunter’s 2018 Hippie Syrah – it was meaty and delicious, as I previously reported here: Interesting Showing of Central Coast Wines at the Dome Reunion!
Some of my notes are amplified by budding winemaker Erin and Jacqueline, the President of our Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society. As always, winery notes come from the tasting sheet, website, or conversations with the winery. Any mistakes are mine and mine alone.
Mark raises the point in his writeup of the Palisades Vineyard Pinot Noir below that not all vineyards in Carmel Valley are in the Carmel Valley AVA – but now there is a brand new Carmel Coastal AVA which you can read about in Matt Kettmann’s article here: Is the Carmel Coast California’s Next Pinot Noir Star?I hope this new AVA addresses his issue!!
2019 Spring Pinot Noir Palisades Vineyard Carmel Valley, Monterey County, 12.84% ABV, $30. (#919)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Owner John Stafsnes spares no amount of trouble or expense on his vineyard. In one of the many examples of AVA nonsense, Palisades, smack dab in the center of Carmel Valley, isn’t in the Carmel Valley AVA, although vineyards many miles away, and over the ridge, in tributary Cachagua valley, are. So legally it’s not Carmel Valley wine, it’s Monterey wine. Whatever. It is subtle but complex, a wine to savor and consider at length with good food. Low alcohol with medium body, spicy, leafy, earthy aromas, tart red cherry and red currant flavors finishing with lingering cinnamon-like tannins. Can you taste the $1300 French barrel? Hope so! Ingredients: grapes, water, yeast, sulfite. Not fined, reverse osmosis filtered. At bottling: total SO2 69 ppm, residual sugar 0.3 g/L (dry).” 50 cases produced.
My Review: We had already tasted plenty of wine, so our notes on this one are a bit skimpy. This is a lighter style, food wine with plenty of expected cherry notes for a Monterey Pinot Noir. December 2022
2021 Spring Saignée Rosé, (Pre-release) (#920)
This wine is pre-release and not yet posted to their website. Made from 50-year-old vines and spent 4 hours on the skins. About 20 cases produced. If you want to read more about saignée, I found this Decanter Magazine article, “What does ‘saignée’ mean in rosé wine?”
My Review: Pale salmon in the glass, more floral, like a rosé from Provence with some tart notes on the palate. Would be a great patio wine on a warm afternoon. December 2022
2021 Big Sur Vineyards Limited Release Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands, 13.8% ABV,$42 (#921) 50/50 Pommard Clone/667 Clone
Winemaker’s Notes: “Our 2021 Pinot Noir Reserve, handcrafted by winemaker Mark Bunter is light, bright and a classic Monterey County Pinot noir. Mark blended two Dijon clones; Pommard with its vevety style and soft tannins, and 667 with aromas of dark fruit and black tea. The result is a beautifully fresh, vividly ruby wine in the glass and layers of raspberry, plum, dark cherry and a hint of “Christmas spices.” It is rich and elegant on the palate while at the same time bursting with aromas and flavors, leaving you with a lasting impression of a well-crafted wine.”
My Review assisted by Erin & Jacqueline: Cherry deliciousness on the palate. This is going to be a great wine – balanced. I’m not a big Pinot fan, but I liked this wine. December 2022
You can check their respective websites for how to purchase their wines. Thanks to the cooperation of Idle Hour, Bunter Spring and Big Sur Vineyards, you can sometimes find a pop-up tasting by Mark Bunter in the Idle Hour tasting space inside the Big Sur Vineyards tasting room in Carmel Valley Village. Check out the Bunter Spring Winery Facebook Page and the Bunter Spring Winery Instagram page for more information.
Decanting Monterey is a non-profit wine education effort to promote our Monterey wineries through social media and classes. If you would like to donate to the cause, please click the PayPal button below or visit the Decanting Monterey Make a Donationpage for more information. All monies received will be used to defray the expenses of operating this website and offset travel expenses for Central Coast wine education classes.
When the Monterey Chapter of the American Wine Society lost the planned location for their December gathering, the Scratch Tasting Room offered an excellent alternative! We are indebted to Scratch’s staff for accommodating us on very short notice. It allowed us to have an exceptional social and wine education event. I knew from photos announcing its opening that this tasting room was designed to the nines. But I didn’t realize how spacious it was! It would be a great location to have a quiet tasting with a girlfriend or a larger event like a bachelorette party or a reception. Really lovely. And the wines matched the setting.
Sabrine Rodems is Monterey County’s most renowned female winemakers. Not only is she the winemaker for the highly respected Wrath Winery (where I first learned of her), but also has her own label – Scratch – and serves as the winemaker for Kori Wines. While I enjoyed a bottle of Scratch’s Blanc de Blanc earlier in the pandemic, and have written up one or two of her wines, I had not had the opportunity to stop by for a wine tasting or write up a review.
About Scratch from its Website: “Scratch is a project of Winemaker Sabrine Rodems producing small-lot Chardonnay Sparkling, Riesling, Grenache, Pinot Noir and Cabernet from Monterey, Arroyo Seco, Santa Lucia Highlands and Santa Cruz Mountains AVA’s.
“Sabrine received her Bachelor’s degree from UCLA in Theatre, Film and Television and worked in the film and theatre industry for many years before deciding to go back to school to earn her Master’s of Science in Viticulture and Enology from UC Davis. For the past twenty years Sabrine has been making highly acclaimed wines from some of the best vineyards in California.
“Working in the Central Coast and Monterey area has given her access to some of the best cool climate grapes in the world.”
I’m also intrigued by her edgy labels. I asked the winery about the message behind them and got this response: “Mr. Cola was once a photographer for the New York Times then eventually found his calling in producing art. Sabrine was originally drawn to Mr. Colla due to his edgy nature as well as powerful message. As we do not have a lot of female wine makers today, we really wanted to showcase strong independent “bad ass” women on our labels to celebrate the change in the industry but also in hopes of inspiring the next generation of female wine makers.” They suggested we check out the artist’s website here: https://www.eddiecolla.com/.
On Eddie’s website he says this: ” There is a visual conversation that takes place on the streets of urban environments. This conversation is dominated primarily by advertising and utilitarian signage and assumes passive participation. Whether invited or not I am going to participate in this conversation. Public spaces were never intended to be coated from top to bottom with photos of consumer products. These spaces should, in some manner, reflect the culture that thrives in that space.”
I have 7 Scratch wines to present to you today from this event. I was assisted in my tasting notes by Erin O of Terravinos. I’ll write more abut her in the coming weeks. Therefore, today my notes are a little more in-depth and descriptive. Erin has a much more sophisticated and trained palate than I. I’ve added “assisted by Erin” to those reviews. Winery notes come from their tasting sheet or website: https://www.scratchwines.com/. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
Winemaker’s Notes: “Extra Brut Chardonnay sparkling wine with brisk acidity and refreshing bubbles. Citrus with some tropical flair of lychee, guava and white flowers.”
My Review, assisted by Erin: Light cream soda in the glass. Pear and honeysuckle on the yeasty nose. Very crisp palate with notes of lemon zest and green apple – very balanced flavors and a creamy mousse. Super youthful. Nice. December 2022
Winemaker’s Notes: “The touch of 828 Clone Pinot Noir to the Clone 96 Chardonnay base synergistically add a juiciness to the mid-palate that makes you want to take another sip! Clone 96 Chardonnay has a round honey-dew melon mouth feel and with the addition of pinot makes you think you are biting into a fresh Fuji apple. This sparkling wine is make using the classic Methode Champenoise, fermented in the bottle.”
My Review, assisted by Erin: Dusty rose/pale pink in color. Strawberry jam with a little biscuit and red apple on the nose. Strawberry and rose petals on the palate, amplified by crisp red fruits and ruby grapefruit. A soft mousse. Fills the palate with bubbles. Youthful. December 2022
Winemaker’s Notes: “This Riesling is on fire! Big acid, bright minerality, grapefruit and lemon with a hint of flowers. There is no residual sugar in this wine so it is not sweet at all, it is completely dry. From the rocky, loamy Kristy’s Vineyard. ”
My Review, assisted by Erin: Medium lemon in color. Some lees on the creamy, biscuity nose – reminiscent of a sauterne! Nectarine, peach and minerality on the palate. Muted acidity and brightness. Drink now. December 2022
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright energetic palate of Cranberries, pomegranate seeds, sour cherries and berries. This juicy Pinot from the near top of the Santa Lucia Highlands bench shows the classic fruit of this AVA along with nutmeg, cinnamon and hints of white pepper.”
My Review, assisted by Erin: Pale ruby in color. Bouquet of cranberry, raspberry, red plum, and warm baking spices, followed by a touch of garrigue. Raspberry and cranberry on the palate with medium minus tannins and medium acid, leading to a slightly bitter finish. Not cherry at all. The intensity of the fruit is not matched by the alcohol. December 2022
Winemaker’s Notes: “A rich and lush Pinot Noir with black cherries, plum, nutmeg, clove and hints of anise. Produced using 30% whole clusters fermentation creates a structured wine with balanced tannins and complexity.”
My Review assisted by Erin: Pale garnet in color. Dried cranberry and Bing cherry on the nose – potpourri. Medium-bodied palate presents a little jammy with medium plus grippy tannins and a touch of caramel with cherry notes on the finish. High alcohol.
Winemaker’s Notes: “This wine with nutmeg, clove, anise and black cherries will make your meal sing! This is a sneak-peek at this yet-to-be-released-wine.”
My Review, assisted by Erin: A perfume of rose petal, lavender, raspberry, black cherry and red fruits like cranberry and a tiny bit of chocolate, tobacco. Perfume carries over to palate with cranberry and raspberry flavors. This is a big wine with medium grippy tannins. December 2022
Winemaker’s Notes: “From the steep hillside of the JANACA Vineyard on Mt. Madonna. Rich flavors of plum and blackberries with juniper, nutmeg, clove. Classic Cabernet!”
My Review, assisted by Erin: Inky in the glass. Brambly, blackberry nose with baking spice, mint and sage notes. Full bodied and rich with chalky tannins. This is a lovely wine that represents well one of the top Cabernet Sauvignon growing regions in California. December 2022
The Scratch Tasting Room is located at 1 East Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Sunday – Thursday: 12 PM – 7 PM; Friday – Saturday: 12 PM – 8 PM. You can find more information here.
Ian Brand’s release/wine pickup parties are always great events. This time, the setup was a bit different – in a way that I liked! The food and music were moved outdoors, accompanied by a moon bounce and a very entertaining unicorn bucking bronco. That allowed for better flow in the winery and more serious sampling of his new releases. While we missed the catered food, the food trucks were a sensible and appealing alternative.
I have learned to pace myself at these events. By that, I don’t mean wine consumption (I am usually designated driver anyway), but note taking and reflection on the wines. There is plenty of time to examine these wines. I was assisted by part of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod.
I’ve been writing wine reviews since the beginning of the pandemic. At first, it was every wine we opened. Eventually, it became just Central Coast wines. With this post, I have crossed the 900 wine reviews mark! Who would have thought this pandemic hobby to entertain family and friends would actually become something enduring!?!
I have 11 wines to present to you today from 2 labels: I Brand & Family, and Le P’tit Paysan (now Paysan) – most tasted at the release party. We’ll start with a couple of 2017s from our wine room. Winery notes come from their tasting sheet or website: https://www.ibrandwinery.com/. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2017 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 12% ABV, $30 (#894)
Winemaker’s Notes from the Tech Sheet: “Location: Tres Pinot Creek, (along San Andreas Fault Line), at only 800 foot elevation. 5% south facing sloped bench, rocky alluvial deposits representing melange of geologic formations around fault zone. The area receives some amount of marine layer, off the Monterey Bay, via the Pajaro River gap. Days are mostly warm with peak temperatures in the 90s, with cold nights descending into the low 50s during the Summer and lower in the Fall.
“Winemaking: 100% Cabernet Franc. A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 18 day maceration, aged 11 months in 6 neutral barrels and puncheons.
“Tasting Notes: Light to medium bodied, reflecting old world, Loire Valley inspired Chinon or Saumum-Champigny characteristics through the lens of California sunshine and diurnal shifts. On the nose, bright red berries, cranberries, mild spice and herbal qualities. On the palate, red fruits, moderate acidity and tannins, allow the savory herbs and umami flavor characteristics to shine thru, upon the very long, finish. It’s 11.7% finished alcohol, but we rounded up on the label because we were a little ashamed it was so low. Don’t tell anybody.”
Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “There’s a regal sense of restraint in this bottling, starting with a light color and aromas of strawberry, white pepper, marjoram and baked soil. Crisp cranberry and raspberry flavors are layered with wild chaparral and desert herbs, a style that will work well with a wide variety of foods, from tacos to tenderloin.” Matt Kettmann, 9/2020
Wilfred Wong of Wine.com – 92 points: “COMPOSITION: Cabernet Franc has been gaining traction over the past decade, and many of California’s smaller producers have uncovered a treasure trove some hidden vineyards. The 2017 I. Brand Cabernet Franc, from the Bayly Ranch, is a wine of excellent merit. TASTING NOTES: This wine exhibits clarity of varietal character. Its aromas and flavors of dust, dried herbs and earth should pair it beautifully with a grilled ribeye.” (Tasted: March 19, 2019, San Francisco, CA)
My Review: This Cabernet Franc is lean in Loire style. A bit too lean for me. I would prefer it in a richer, bigger Bordeaux style. August 2022
2017 Le P’tit Paysan Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast, $25 (#895) 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot
Winemaker’s Notes: “Le P’tit Paysan offers intense blackberry, dark cherry aromas, chocolate, herbaceous and toasty notes on the palate. Medium-bodied, well-balanced with moderate and integrated tannins that give structure and liveliness to the wine.
“Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from two vineyards, a 44 year old vineyard planted in the calcareous alluvial deposits of the San Benito River and a 25 year old vineyard east of Gilroy, which grows in deep, extremely sandy soils against the foothills of the Diablo Range. The Petite Verdot from the Paicines AVA and grows in rocky alluvial deposits above the Tres Pinos arroyo. All three vineyards experience the warm days and cold nights typical of the Central Coast, allowing these late ripening Bordeaux varieties to be picked at high acidity and moderate sugars. Fermented whole berry in several lots with endemic yeasts, pressed after approximately 20 days. Aged for 11 months (3% new) French barrels. A beautiful example of ‘old school’ California Cabernet made with minimal intervention from mature vineyards.
“Pairs well with steak, duck, game, hearty stews, ribs, and dark, rich sauces.”
My Review: Pretty ruby in the glass. Dish soap and berries on the nose. Very pleasant palate of red and black fruits with floral notes. Hate to say, this is almost Pinot Noir-like with fruits that are more cherry and red. September 2022
2021 I Brand & Family Graff Family Vineyard Melon de Bourgogne, Chalone AVA, 12.5% ABV, $30 (#896)
Winemaker’s Notes: “N/A”
My Review: Hay in the glass. Citrus notes on the nose. A little buttery caramel on the palate. Overheard: Super bright. Done in steel with a little time in oak. November 2022
2021 I Brand & Family Fox Creek Vineyard Chardonnay, Carmel Valley, 13% ABV, $36 (#897)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bright, intense Chardonnay from a private property in Carmel Valley. Barrel fermented and aged 16 months in cooperage.
“Tasting Notes: Amazingly balanced! Toasted walnut and brioche French toast lead the way to a wine with a bright acidity and creamy layers of fruit including baked apples and grilled pineapple. Baking spices and clove finish with a lingering, balanced acidity.”
My Review: Light golden color. Toast on the nose. Delicious tropical flavors on the palate with buttery notes. Finishes with a lemon twist. November 2022
2021 Paysan Jack’s Hill Chardonnay, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $22 (#898)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Blended from a collection of five small vineyards at the base of “Jack’s Hill”, in Chualar, CA. The cool climate and distinct iron oxide granite soil provide the foundation for this clean, crisp Chablis inspired Chardonnay. The balance of acidity and minerality shine brightly with each sip.
“Tasting Notes: Lemon curd on brioche toast with key lime zest lead the nose and the front palate migrating into flinty undertones of wet gunpowder and a pleasant return to chamomile. Finishes with bright but balanced acidy reminiscent of tart quinine.”
My Review: Always a favorite, this wine is light golden in the glass. Strong flavors of pineapple and citrus on the palate. Refreshing. November 2022
2020 Paysan P’tit Pape, Central Coast, 12.8% ABV, $25, (#899)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Our classic Grenache based blend. Old world balance with a California patina. A favorite.
“Tasting Notes: The nose begins with wet river rock and California chaparral combined with cherries and plum skin leading the way toward a meaty, teriyaki, black olive reminiscence. Composed on the palate, notes of white pepper and dried herbs – bay laurel and thyme provide a complex compliment to the fruit on the nose. A distinctly umami soy/hoisin silkiness finishes with an understated balance and subtle minerality.”
My Review: Dark ruby color. Cherry and tobacco on the nose. Smooth palate of red and black fruits – very balanced and tasty. As I understand it, Ian cleverly sourced these grapes from the Santa Clara AVA and Chalone AVA to skirt any smoke taint issues from the 2020 fires in Monterey and Santa Cruz counties. November 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Bayly Ranch Cabernet Franc, Paicines AVA, San Benito County, 11.9% ABV, $30 (#900)
Winemaker’s Notes: “100% Cabernet Franc. A great locale for Cabernet Franc to exhibit Loire-like structure overlaid with the bright fruit befitting California sunshine. Picked at moderate sugars and vinified whole berry (10% whole cluster) with spontaneous yeasts and a 20 day maceration in open top fermenters. Aged 11 months on lees in neutral barrels and puncheons. Naturally bright and low alcohol.
“Tasting Notes: Dusty Earthy notes abound right up front with notes of saddle leather, and interesting green undertones of poblano pepper and tomato leaf. The translation to the palate is immediately savory with bay laurel and a distinct salinity finishing with dusty tannins reminiscent of Chinon. This vintage is much more initially integrated than previous iterations.”
My Review: Garnet in color. Rose petal on the nose. Lean palate of dark fruit – yet a lighter style of Cabernet Franc. November 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, 12.2% ABV, $48 (#901)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Franc fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Franc. This full-bodied wine is bursting with lush, dark red berries and subtle lavender and hints dried herbs on the nose. Playing with balance, acidity pops off structured tannins finishing with that traditional peppery edge.
“Tasting Notes: The bouquet is rich with aromas of dried red fruits and cocoa nibs. Hints of espresso and chocolate-covered cherry lead the way on the palate, rounding to strawberry. Coastal fir lingers with pronounced tannins that create a wonderful tension with the wine’s mellow acidity.”
My Review: Deep ruby in color. Very nice palate of dark fruit. In a surprise move, I decided to take one home! November 2022
2019 I Brand & Family Syrah/Mourvedre/Grenache, Chalone AVA, 13.2% ABV, $42 (#902)
Winemaker’s Notes: “A blend of three distinct Chalone vineyards, with lots of whole cluster and meaty, minerals and depth.”
My Review: Dark ruby color. A Grenache nose with cherry notes. Good structure. A little chewy and good – showing very well. I liked this wine. November 2022
2019 I Brand & Family Syrah, Graff Family Vineyard, Chalone AVA, 13.6% ABV, $42 (#903)
My home wine rack has some design flaws, resulting in this label damage.
Winemaker’s Notes: “From a 3 acre 1989 planting on the historic Graff Family Vineyard in Chalone AVA. Bacon Fat, mud, granite full, meaty, smooth and indulgent.”
My Review: Inky in the glass. Aromas of yeast, a little barnyard, cherry, cranberry, blackberry. Tasty palate of blackberry, black cherry, cranberry with some tobacco and licorice on the finish. December 2022
2020 I Brand & Family Bates Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 13.8% ABV, $48 (#904)
Winemaker’s Notes: “Bates Ranch Vineyard is a secret gem of the trinity of Bordeaux varietal sites nestled in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Our Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is from a small block planted atop rich red Franciscan volcanic influenced rocks in 1978. A classic example of Cabernet Sauvingon.
“Tasting Notes: The bouquet is rich with dusty, overripe plum, cedar, graphite and hints of pine pitch resin. This translates to the palate and reveals the iron in the volcanic soil, which becomes present on the back. Super juicy acidity lingers and melds with mellow tannins creating a velvety finish.”
My Review: Dark ruby in the glass. Rich dark berry and cassis nose – yummy – following through on the palate, with a touch of acidity on this finish. While not like a Napa Cab, this was quite tasty. Grown at 2100′ elevation! November 2022
The I Brand & Family Tasting Room is located at 19 Carmel Valley Road in Carmel Valley Village. It is open Thursday – Monday, 11 am – 5 pm. Reservations are recommended – more information here.
Our wine allocations from our various memberships go through peaks and valleys. A peak was in October when suddenly it seemed we needed to pick up wine from them all at the same time! We stopped in at Bernardus and were offered a tasting. It was there that we learned about the Marinus Dinner and snatched the last seats for the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod. Marinus is the Bernardus flagship Bordeaux-style red blend. You can read more about former owner Ben Pon’s dream to make Bordeaux-style wine right in Carmel Valley here: https://decantingmonterey.com/bernardusmarinus2010/.
We attended the previous Marinus dinner in 2019 (pre-pandemic). The event was spectacular – a multi-course meal by Carmel Valley’s Chef Jerome Viel who expertly crafted dishes to paired nicely with Marinus wines of various vintages. You can read more about Jerome here: https://jeromescarmelvalleymarket.com/chef-jerome-viel/.
The recent 2022 Marinus dinner was an expanded affair. Limited to 22 Marinus club members, it took up 2 rooms in their tasting room – twice the size of the previous event. The meal was lovely from beginning to end. I felt as though it were New Year’s Eve and our anniversary dinner all rolled into one!
The Pon Family CrestWinemaker Dean describes the wines.
This is a rather lengthy writeup, so bear with me. It starts with the tasting room visit, focused on the 5 non-Marinus wines we had, followed by the Marinus dinner writeup of 6 Marinus wines and our beautiful meal, to close out 2022 in a celebratory way! A few of these wines have been presented here before and several library wines are no longer available. And we did start off the dinner with a glass of their rose from Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, their new effort to do something a little different. I previously wrote up that wine (#677) here: https://decantingmonterey.com/monterey-county-vintners-and-growers-know-how-to-celebrate-monterey-winemakers/.
Winery tasting notes come from their website, the tasting sheet, or conversations with the winemaker or tasting room staff unless otherwise indicated. You can read more about most of these wines on their website. Any errors are mine and mine alone.
2021 Bernardus Chardonnay, Monterey County, 14.3% ABV, $30 (#884)
Winery Notes from www.wine.com: “Bernardus Monterey Chardonnay exhibits bright white fruit aromas accented by subtle oak notes. The palate is intense and beautifully focused with vibrant peach and tropical fruit flavors along with spice accents. The long finish is supported by a refreshing acidity. Another superb example of Chardonnay from Monterey County.”
My Review: Golden in the glass. Tropical on the nose and tasty on the palate. This vintage is slightly metallic on the finish. I believe the Monterey Chardonnay is representative of our region. October 2022
2021 Bernardus Ingrid’s Vineyard Chardonnay, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, 14.5% ABV, $50 (#885)
Winery Notes: “As the vineyard matures, the wines seem to keep getting better and better. This vintage of Ingrid’s Chardonnay is possibly our finest to date! The aromas express ripe tropical fruits and honeysuckle. The palate is very rich and complex with flavors of ripe white fruits and ginger cookie spice. A beautiful expression of this special Carmel Valley vineyard!”
My Review: Very tropical palate with tasty pineapple notes – a cut above. A very fine example of what Monterey County can do with Chardonnay. October 2022
2019 Bernardus Marinus Vineyard Merlot, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, 14.1% ABV, $50 (#371)
Winery Notes: “In the glass you will see a wine of deep crimson red. The aromas show bright dark red fruit scents with subtle spice notes. The palate is very rich and soft, with flavors of dried cherries and cranberries, accented with hints of chocolate. The delicious flavors linger beautifully on the long, powerful finish. A superb Merlot!” 90 Points- Wine Enthusiast
My Review: Ruby in color. Sweet spice on the nose. Delicious palate of cherry and berry fruits. I like this bottling even more than the previous vintage. October 2022
2017 Bernardus Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, Monterey County 12.8% ABV, $125 magnum, currently (as of 12/21) on sale $62.50!!! (#289)
Winery Notes: “Our 2017 Cabernet exudes spicy aromas of red berry and cranberry. The palate beautifully reflects the aromas showing juicy red fruit flavors with a subtle, refreshing acidity. Our Cabernet has been aged for six months in 28-year-old neutral French oak tanks in order to allow the fruit flavors of these grapes to shine through without any oak barrel influence. We hope you will enjoy this wonderful wine as much as we do!”
My Review: Dark ruby in color. Vibrant, fresh red and black fruits on the nose – berries, cherry, carrying over to the palate. Tasty, with a dry finish with a touch of cassis and tobacco. While seemingly light in comparison to the bigger Marinus blends, this opened up into a tongue-coating, delicious little wine. September 2022
2018 Bernardus Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmel Valley, Monterey County 12.6% ABV, $50 (#886)
Winery Notes: “In the glass you will see a wine of deep crimson red. The aromas show beautiful dark red fruit scents with subtle spice notes. The palate is very rich, expressing intense black cherry and plum flavors, supported by ripe tannins on the finish. An excellent addition to our Bernardus line-up!”
My Review: Pretty rich ruby in color. A toasty nose with nice Cabernet Sauvignon flavors on the palate. October/November 2022
1993 Bernardus Marinus Red Table Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, $30 (#887)
Winery Notes: This was the first year they produced Marinus. The grapes were planted in 1989. It was made by winemaker Don Blackburn. From K&L Wine Merchants: “According to Wine Spectator: “A new Bordeaux-style blend that’s firm and intense, if a bit on the tannic side. Currant, cherry and anise flavors are well focused and well proportioned, and finish with dry tannins. Try after 1997.” (08/1996)
My Review: Inky in the glass. Dark and tannic with a touch of ham on the nose. Drinking well – like an old Bordeaux. Balanced. November 2022
2000 Bernardus Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County (#888)
Winery Notes from www.wine.com: “Increasing vine maturity coupled with almost perfect growing conditions enabled us to make a wine of great concentration that still has subtlety and elegance. Even in years of great ripeness our winemaking style emphasizes the textural element of the wine, making it approachable now, with the balance of flavors to age gracefully.”
Raviole de Boeuf
My Review: More purple in color. Leathery. A little alcohol up front with dark fruits on the palate. So smooth. Super well balanced. November 2022
2010 Bernardus Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County (#39) Cabernet Sauvignon 59%, Merlot 29%, Petit Verdot 7%, Cabernet Franc 5%
Winery Notes: “Our 2010 Marinus exhibits its typical deeply colored robe. The aromas express beautiful red fruits accented by classic notes of cedar. The delicious flavors are soft and full, with spicy dark cherry and plus flavors and a smooth texture of well integrated tannins. Although drinking beautifully now, this Marinus will age gracefully for many years to come.”
Roasted Duck Breast
My Review: Cassis/prune on the nose. Very smooth on the palate. Pairs well with the duck breast. Very delicious. Chalky. Drinking well! November 2022 Marinus is aged in oak for 16 months.
2015 Bernardus Marinus Signature Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, $125 (#889)
Winery Notes: “This 2015 vintage of our highly regarded Signature Marinus exhibits a beautiful, deep robe. The aromas are redolent with dark red fruits and dried spices. On the palate we find bright ripe-red fruit flavors and notes of cedar on a long, rich finish, promising a long life to come! A wonderful example from our estate vineyard!”
My Review: Label says 14.1% ABV, but probably 14.8%. Rich, dark berry nose with licorice and cocoa notes. Delicious full palate. I gave this wine two hearts! November 2022
2017 Bernardus Marinus Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County, 13.9% ABV, $75 (pre-release) (#890)
Winery Notes: This vintage has more Merlot in the blend – more like a Right Bank Bordeaux. This was a cooler winter.
Assiette de Fromage
Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “This is a classic taste of the Carmel Valley, starting with aromas of blackberry jam, stewed berry and oak spice on the nose. The palate combines a rich blackberry-sauce core along with peppery spices and a luxurious streak of vanilla.” Matt Kettmann, 12/2022
My Review: This vintage has more Merlot, more like a Right Bank Bordeaux. Black licorice, blackberry and toasted oak on the nose – a marshamallowy vanilla. Very jammy yummy on the palate. Be ready for this one to be released – it is terrific. November 2022
2017 Bernardus Marinus Signature Red Wine, Carmel Valley, Monterey County 14.1% ABV, $125 (pre-release) (#891)
Winery Notes: N/A
Chocolate Decadence
My Review: Inky purple in the glass. Cocoa on the nose. Dark berry and cocoa on the palate. Really jammy. So delicious. This is going to be a great wine. November 2022
Tasting Bernardus Wines: Their tasting room, located at 5 West Carmel Valley Road, is open Tuesday-Saturday. every day! Reservations are not required. You can see more information and book a tasting here or email tastingroom@bernardus.com or call them at 831-298-8021
I was thumbing through past issues of Wine Spectator on their way to the recycle bin, hunting for articles and reviews of Central Coast wines. One wine kept jumping out at me – Carol Shelton’s Coquille Blanc from Paso Robles. I remembered I had the 2020 vintage to write up and thought it might be a perfect time also to share the wine we had at Thanksgiving, the 2016 Calera deVilliers Vineyard Pinot Noir from Mount Harlan in San Benito County. In addition, I’ve had the 2017 Odonata Spiketail (Santa Lucia Highlands) and the 2018 Silvestri Estate Barbera (Carmel Valley) on my list. The great thing is that all of these wines came from our own wine room. Which is why it is always nice to have a plentiful supply of our very own Central Coast wines right at home!
Today I am presenting 4 Central Coast wines. Winery notes come from their website or the tasting room, unless otherwise noted. I encourage you to feel free to comment, share what wine you had for Thanksgiving dinner, or simply “like” this post – engagement is always welcomed!
I joinedCarol Shelton’s wine club during the pandemic and we have been pleasantly surprised! We met her ages ago at a Zinfandel Advocates and Producers event in Washington, DC. Over the years, our neighbors would share her wines with me. I really don’t know why it took us so long to become part of Carol’s Bunch!
About This Wine: “We originally created the 2008 version of this wine to celebrate our 10th anniversary as a winery in 2010. With the exotic complexity and food friendliness of a white Rhône-style blend, it is a “red-drinker’s white,” a complex alternative to the more one-dimensional white varietal wines like Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc. It is the perfect complement to its namesake shellfish, as well as chicken or pork dishes with buttery-creamy sauces. *Coquille is pronounced “ko-keel” and it is French for shellfish or scallop, like the scallop shells on the Shelton family coat of arms.” 931 cases produced – sold out!
Winery Notes: “Enticing nose of spicy pears and white peaches, almond paste/marzipan, a touch of honeysuckle perfume. Multi-dimensional (many layers), a hard-to-describe range of aromatics, intriguing, almost mysterious! In the mouth it is crisply dry yet creamy and round and full-bodied, with nice almond paste on crisp-yet-juicy pear fruit…100% barrel fermented, then stirred weekly for 5mos About 10% finished malolactic fermentation…”
My Review: Classic white Rhône nose, nectarine. Bright acidity balanced by a touch of sweetness. Nice tropical flavors of pineapple and pear on the palate, with a lime twist on the finish. Exceptional for a warm, summer day. September 2022
2016 Calera deVilliers Vineyard Pinot Noir, Mount Harlan AVA, San Benito County, 13.95% ABV, $79 (#874)
I picked up this wine in 2019 when I took my girlfriends to explore Hollister wines. We took a picnic lunch and sat outside at one of their picnic benches with our flights of wines in the 90+ degree heat. It was a very special time – we were welcomed so warmly and treated so well by the winery staff. While I am not a big Pinot Noir fan, this one blew me away.
About This Wine: “Calera’s Mt. Harlan Vineyards are located in the Gavilan Mountains 25 miles east of the Monterey Bay. The site was chosen for its limestone soils and ideal climate. At an average elevation of 2,200 feet it is among the highest and coolest vineyard sites in California.” You can read more about Mt. Harlan AVA here: https://www.calwineries.com/explore/regions/san-benito-county/mount-harlan.
Winemaker’s Notes: “Once again, de Villiers has produced one of Calera’s most voluptuous and dark-fruited expressions of Pinot Noir, with alluring aromas of blackberry, cassis and cedary cigar box. On the palate, lush dark berry and black currant flavors are supported by a firm tannic backbone that frames the fruit and carries the wine to a long, energetic finish.” Wine Advocate: 95 points.
Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “Hard cinnamon candies, cherry juice, pomegranate extract and a touch of balsamic vinegar combine for sharp, nose-tickling aromas on this organically grown wine from pioneering vintner Josh Jensen. The flavor-forward palate explodes with dark fruits, noticeable tannins and solid acidity, showing allspice, Vietnamese coffee and black tea elements.” Matt Kettmann, July 2015
My Review: Beautiful ruby in the glass. Soft berry and dark plum on the nose. Nice juicy palate with some bitter tannins/tobacco on the finish. December 2022
We picked up this 2017 vintage with the rest of the Decanting Monterey Wine Pod during our first visit to Odonata in 2021 when we got their shortly before closing time. We revisited with our daughter in 2022 as the single wine tasting stop, which I would highly recommend. Eric hosted us both times and shared much information on the wines, always appreciated. You can learn more at the Odonata website.
Winery Notes: “Offering copious aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, raspberry, strawberries, licorice and roasted herbs. Bright acidity, beautiful density, and full-bodied opulence.” 120 cases produced.
My Review: Rich, dark ruby in the glass. Dark berry jam on the nose. Low key palate of jammy berry flavors – this is one delicious wine. June 2022
I picked up this wine in August 2021 while doing a birthday wine tasting afternoon with a key Decanting Monterey Wine Pod member. As I recall, they did not have it open for tasting, but I had recalled really liking this wine in the past. Their tasting room is small yet very welcoming – I miss their COVID parklet!
About This Wine: “Barbera is a red grape varietal originating from the Piedmont region of Northwestern Italy. Our small block of Barbera, which is the first planting of this varietal in Carmel Valley, was added to the vineyard to honor the Silvestri family heritage. It’s position on a warm southern facing slope allows this varietal to mature and ripen to its fullest potential before harvest. With the influence of French oak barrel fermentation and maturation our Barbera exudes a deep richness and complexity that helps balance the grape’s high acidity.” 462 cases produced.
Winery Tasting Notes: “Black cherry, dried strawberry and plum aromas blend through to like flavors and move on to full, soft tannins with sufficient acidity. A more refined yet full-flavored Barbera.”
My Review: Inky in the glass. Mocha, dark berries and alcohol on the nose. Very cherry on the palate. Crushed cranberries and berries linger on the lively palate. September 2022
In 2019, I was asked by the Northern Virginia John Marshall Chapter of the American Wine Society to present a class on Monterey wines. I was informed it would be “more educational” than the short presentation I do for another Washington DC group and it would require a PowerPoint presentation. Seriously? For something I do as a hobby/volunteer? I decided to do it – and it was very well received. I leaned heavily on information from the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association website – thank you, Kim Stemler! The AWS chapter invited me back this year – and I was finally able to do the class in October.
This time, preparing the materials was much easier – I already had a basic presentation, which I updated with the latest Monterey County agricultural report and some climatic info, including the 2020 fire season. My goal this time was to cover as many of Monterey County’s AVAs as I could. I managed to include: Arroyo Seco, Carmel Valley, Monterey, San Antonio Valley, San Bernabe, and Santa Lucia Highlands. Not bad!
For the most part, my stories were very local and wines selected were based on personal relationships I have developed with vintners and tasting room staff. I also needed to live within the event’s budget, so I leaned on industry discounts and donated wines in order to present some others at their full price. For that, I am grateful especially to Bunter Spring, Chesebro, Idle Hour and Pierce Ranch. Thanks to their generosity, I was able to throw in a couple of “extra” wines to the tasting. And I was excited to be able to discuss some wineries for the first time. I’m also indebted to the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association for providing me with some large maps and the latest tasting room brochure – always a hit!
The event went well, with great appreciation by the attendees. Some of the wines I presented were teaching points, such as how a sparkling wine producer makes a Chardonnay or making rose from a smoke taint year. A few attendees said a couple of the wines didn’t taste like the varietal on the label. This was the case with the Pinot Noir and the Merlot. While I agree with the Pinot Noir statement (and that’s why this non-Pinot lover liked this wine), perhaps the commenters were thinking of a French Merlot vs. a California Merlot. I am not sure. The bottom line is that they enjoyed and appreciated most of the wines.
Today I am presenting 10 wines from Monterey County. Many of them have been presented before, but I thought you might find it interesting to see what I put together. Winery notes come from their website or the tasting room, unless otherwise noted. I encourage you to feel free to comment or “like” this post – engagement is always welcomed!
About This Wine: A Chesebro Wines project, named after their winery’s location. Intended as a same quality, more affordable label.
Winery Notes: Destemmed, crushed, immediately pressed. Stainless steel for 12 months. Intense tropical and citrus aromas are backed up by a smooth mouthfeel; and long crisp finish.
My Review: The Virginia crowd, well familiar with Virginia Viogniers really enjoyed this wine. Gardenia on the nose. Some apple and lime twist on the palate, with a touch of orange blossom and honeysuckle on the finish. February 2022
2019 Diora La Splendeur du Soleil Chardonnay, San Bernabe AVA, Monterey, 14.5% ABV, $20 (Wine #652*)
Winemaker’s Notes: “This Diora La Splendeur du Soleil Chardonnay is a beautiful, golden hue, with aromas of toasted oak mingle with light spice notes of cinnamon. The delicate flavors of vanilla bean give way to a lovely, soft and light buttery layer. This reminds one of a rich, yet delicate crème brûlée with a soft, round mouthfeel that will pair beautifully with lobster or sautéed scallops. The light acidity and long finish of this wine will also be a great accompaniment to a variety of dishes.” This wine comes mostly from its San Bernabe estate vineyard, where it gets its tropical notes. The rest comes from its Santa Lucia Highlands vineyard, providing more of the citrusy balance.
Wine Enthusiast – 93 points: “Excellently presented aromas of butter, nectarine, warm almond and white flower are delicate but expressive on the nose of this bottling. An immediate acidity races through the palate, lifting the toasty and buttery elements while pairing smartly against the ripe citrus and white flower elements.” Matt Kettmann, December 2021
My Review: This was a big hit with the AWS class. I picked this wine based on Wine Enthusiast’s listing of this wine in its Top 100 Chardonnays – Top Under $25. Viscous and golden in the glass. Tropical nose with melon and a touch of smoke. Grilled peach and pineapple on the palate with toasted caramel on the finish. This was a very interesting, atypical Chardonnay (in my opinion) which everyone enjoyed. April 2022
Winery Notes: “Pale straw, light golden hue. Lemon meringue, honey dew melon along with tropical pineapple, kiwi, lychee and guava. A flirty balance of fruit, delicate white jasmine flower and salty sea. Creamy mouthfeel coupled with structural integrated fruit throughout the sip. Fruit notes reminiscent of green apple, pear, pineapple, candied peach and nectarine. Soft florals balanced with a brined mid palate acidity, mouthwatering finish that showcases the bright fruit.” 94 points, Wine Enthusiast.
My Review: I chose this wine, as the Escolle VIneyard, owned by Caraccioli, is a source of grapes for some of the region’s best Chardonnays. This particular vintage presented a bit tart/acidic for the class – a good example of how a sparkling wine producer might make a Chardonnay. Pale in the glass. Touch of soft pineapple, a little butter and woodiness on the nose “like the Lone Cypress” or a cut shrub. Clean, nice, some minerality. December 2021
About This Wine: First time they have used Gamay for their rosé instead of Grenache (a wildfire by-product!). Harvested at low alcohol solely for making rosé. Grapes pressed like a white. Juice comes out this color. Stainless steel.
Winery Tasting Notes: “Beautiful light pink in color. Aromatics of rose petals and citrus combined with a light body and crisp acidity – perfect for pairing with food or just sipping on a hot day.”
My Review: This wine was great as a teaching point of what to do with grapes affected by the fires of 2020. It is unlike the typical Pinot Noir-based rosés from the region. Pale pink in the glass. Tart grape bubblegum wrapped in sweetness. March 2022
Winemaker’s Notes: “The crispness and brightness of Bing Cherry followed by the earthy aromas of forest floor and the sweet and savory notes of sassafras and cola. This wine is the most Burgundian Pinot Noir I have ever made. It’s light color and silky tannins are testament to the extra year of aging on the sediment that I gave it. The wine finishes with the fine structure on your tongue of wet stones.” Spent 1.5 years on the sediment. Donated to this class (many thanks, Anna Marie dos Remedios!!)
My Review: The AWS audience said this did not taste like Pinot Noir to them, which is probably why I like this wine. My notes: Dark ruby, almost purple in the glass. Earth, plum and spice on the nose. So not like a typical, cherry California Pinot Noir. Richer on the palate with dark fruit flavors. April 2022
2017 Pierce Ranch Vineyards Maçon, San Antonio Valley AVA, 14.3% ABV, $32 (#656) 53% Petit Verdot, 30% Tempranillo, 17% Graciano
Winery Tasting Notes: “Something of an Ibérique Supérieur, our new Maçon brings together Tempranillo, Graciano and Petit Verdot to form a slightly idiosyncratic blend of Spanish and French varieties. Combining a hint of Iberian aromatics with the earthy, mineral palate reminiscent of a Bordeaux, this is a wine that approaches Old World character while also indulging a touch of experimentation. A floral nose balances itself against a darker midpalate and a solid tannic structure, as notes of violets and dried herbs give way to an underlying earthiness and a savory, vaguely smoky finish.” Donated to this class (many thanks, Pierce Ranch!).
My Review: The AWS group liked this little wine. This is an intriguing combination of French and Spanish grapes. Dark ruby in color with cedar, mocha and rose petals on the nose. Full bodied, with mocha, cherry, berry and black tea flavors on the palate. Our favorite wine on this tasting day in March 2022
2018 Spring Red Wine “Garagitage”, Highlands Vineyard, Monterey County, 14.64% ABV, $24 76% Cabernet Franc, 16% Petit Verdot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon
Winemaker’s Original Notes: “These grapes came from a small vineyard in the hills above Arroyo Seco just north of Carmel Valley Road. They were harvested, very ripe, on Sep 30 2018. Upon release, in Spring 2021, ss I write, this wine is a rough and tumble California fruit bomb, with tons of grapey flavor, plenty of alcohol, and no manners. Maybe, someday, it will grow up. Meantime, have fun!” 15 months in once used French oak barrels. 76 cases produced.
Winemaker’s Updated Notes: “Big ripe fruity red wine, lotsa alcohol, plenty tannin, enough oak. Screams “CALIFORNIA!” Gotta love it. Why pay more?”
My Review: The AWS class thought this wine was fabulous, with some asking what it would be like in 5 years (I invited them to my house to see!). This was my favorite wine from a winery tasting in the Fall 2021 and continues to be a household favorite: Very dark ruby in the glass. Perfume on the nose, followed by a yummy palate of dark fruit. We keep drinking this wine – what an incredible wine for a bargain price! October 2021
2018 Boëté Reserve Merlot, Carmel Valley, 14% ABV, $50 (#568)
During one of our visits to the winery over the last couple of years, we got to taste this wine – the first time I know of that they bottled a Merlot as a single varietal – it usually is blended in their popular Cheval Rouge. They weren’t sure they were going to continue to bottle it alone – we encourage them to do so, *if* supply permits! You can find all their available wines here: https://www.boetewinery.com/
Winery Notes: “Ruby red in color, aroma notes of dark berries jump out on the nose of this classic medium body Merlot, with black cherries, plum & a hint of cocoa spice on the palate.”
My Review: A couple of people in the AWS class stated this did not taste like a Merlot to them, yet everyone enjoyed it. Purple in the glass. Rich and juicy in the mouth with some solid dark fruits, blackberry and black currant. Balanced and very smooth on the finish. This wine is a big hit at my house. October 2021
Winemaker’s Notes: “Fruit punchy jammy everyday red. It’s great with red-sauced pasta, too.” 75 cases produced.
My Review: This was a big hit with the AWS class – and with me – I took all the leftovers home! Very dark in color. Sweet dark fruit on the nose. Jammy dark berries and a touch of alcohol on the palate. I would like to present it to another class some day. June 2022
2014 Chesebro La Montagne Sauvage, CM Ranch Vineyard, Carmel Valley, $35 (#618*)
Winery Notes: “Grown on our estate in the Upper Carmel Valley’s rocky mountain soils at 1500’ elevation, this Rhone style blend of 80% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 5% Mourvedre is powerful and rich with aromas of cassis, dark forest berries, scorched earth and spice. Blockbuster with a long lingering finish.
My Review: Rich ruby in the glass. Pleasant nose of fresh berries. Palate of berry jam, eucalyptus and chocolate with red currant and anise flavors on the finish. Super delicious. My very favorite of all the Chesebro wines. January 2022
Where can you taste these wines? I wrap up my classes by encouraging attendees to come taste our wines for themselves and walk them through the tasting room maps in the latest brochure which I received from Kim Stemler (again, many thanks!). If you want to find these specific wineries, check out their websites for the latest information. Here’s where I found these wines, some of which may no longer be available:
Carmel-by-the-Sea:Caraccioli Cellars Tasting Room on Dolores between Ocean and 7th. Diora does not have a local spot to taste, but wine was purchased at Carmel Belle.
Carmel Valley: Boëté (reservation required – by appointment only), Bunter Spring (tasting room closed, but contact the winemaker to taste his wines, Chesebro (including Tassajara Road), Idle Hour (inside the Big Sur Vineyards tasting room).
Monterey: Pierce Ranch Vineyards in the Cannery Road area of Monterey.
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