It was 68 degrees on a May afternoon. For most of you, so what, right? In our coastal town of Pacific Grove, it was one of the very few days of the year when it was warm enough to sit on our front porch, which never sees the light of day or warmth of the sun. Our new isolation/Shelter-in-Place thing to do is for all of us – including our dogs – to enjoy a warm afternoon on the front porch, sunk into an old, comfy, rattan couch. On this day, we played my husband’s favorite isolation game – Guess the Wine.
He brought us each a glass of pale yellow, very chilled wine. My first guess was a Sauvignon Blanc, but there was way too much pineapple. Chardonnay was my second guess. Monterey County was a safe bet, but he wasn’t sure. I wracked my brain trying to think of whose Chardonnay we had in our house. Nope. Do they have a tasting room in Carmel Valley Village? Yes, but we don’t go there often. Hm…finally I start listing the tasting rooms we visit in order of geography…and finally hit upon Rexford.
Rolling Vineyards Just South of the Santa Lucia Highlands
We are moving into the Santa Lucia Highland (SLH) AVA, where some of the best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the county is grown at some of the county’s most famous vineyards. You can feel the power and see the beauty of SLH while driving down the River Road Wine Trail. “SLH” on a label to me means a wine of distinction. You would expect me to be presenting a Hahn, a Talbot, a Boekenoogen, or something from one of our renowned SLH wineries. But, since I am presenting you wines we have consumed while Sheltering-in-Place by AVA, I am bringing you a Rexford.
The Rexford Tasting Room in Carmel Valley Village.
The Rexford Winery was founded in 2008. It is known for its single-vineyard Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Merlot, and other premium varieties. This wine comes from the northern part of the SLH AVA. Pretty sure we drove right by this vineyard on our April River Road trip. We got to know Rexford from our many visits to the former White Oak Shopping Center, now home to some of our favorite wineries (we’ve already mentioned Parsonage, Chesebro, and I. Brand in this blog). The Rexford tasting room is closed.
Winemaker’s Notes: The grapes were crushed and destemmed, then pressed immediately. Barrel fermented and aged sur lie. “This wine was fermented and aged in French oak barrels then bottled without fining or filtration. It is a rich, full-bodied Chardonnay with an excellent balance of fruit and acidity. In the aroma are hints of oak and tropical fruits and in the taste flavors of citrus and melon.” Only 98 cases were produced and it sold out quickly.
The 2015 Rexford Chardonnay is bursting with flavor.
My Review: Light on color, brilliant pineapple on the nose and palate, with a touch of butter. This higher alcohol Chardonnay is perhaps the biggest, most flavorful one I have ever tasted – just bursting with flavor. It was refreshing after a long hike and was greatly enjoyed on our front porch on such a warm day. I would buy this again. May 2020
Check out Rexford here – their prices are mostly $30-35 per bottle and they are currently (as of 9/11/2020) offering free shipping with the purchase of 3 or more bottles. Crazy good, eh?
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
We were out in the valley one afternoon checking out the tasting rooms and saw something new had moved into the old White Oaks Shopping Center, now primarily a “wine tasting row.” In my memory, this fellow inside was playing guitar, but maybe he was just playing a record. He stopped to pour us wine. We learned he was the “I” of I. Brand – Ian Brand. We were attracted to his wines, range of varietals and vineyards, his affordable prices, and humorous labels, akin to those at Bonny Doon. And it is no wonder, as that is where he got his introduction to the wine business – doing an entry-level job at Bonny Doon.
I. Brand’s Tasting Room in Carmel Valley Village
Winemaker Ian Brand has come a long way since those early days in the wine business. He and his wife Heather now produce over 10,000 cases annually in a warehouse in Salinas under three wine labels: Le P’tit Paysan (French Inspired Wines), La Marea (Spanish Inspired Wines) and I. Brand & Family (California Inspired Wines). Wine Spectator published this illuminating 2015 Winemaking on the Edge article about Ian Brand, his wines and his family. And, most significantly, Ian was named the San Francisco Chronicle 2018 Winemaker of the Year.
From I. Brand & Family: “We did not set out to make these wines. We discovered great vineyards at the edge of sensible farming and decided to bring them to light. The farther we looked, the more we found – remote, challenging vineyards, with hard depleted soils, and intense sunlight tempered only by the coastal breeze. Vineyards capable of producing only the most idiosyncratic wines. Our goal as winemakers is to lightly polish the roughest edges and leave the idiosyncrasy intact. It is here in the back country, filled with individual character, where Le P’tit Paysan comes to life.”
“La Marea, made by Ian Brand of Le P’tit Paysan, is a tiny winery focused on single vineyard Spanish varietals “rooted in the sea, the soil and the sea air”. Brand believes Monterey and San Benito to be some of the most ideally suited climates in California for Spanish varietals like Albariño, Grenache (Garnacha) and Mourvedre (Monastrell). The proximity to the cool ocean waters Monterey Bay provides an optimal climate for Albarino while the warmer San Antonio and San Benito Valleys closely resemble the Spanish regions where these grapes thrive. This region, once the site of a shallow ocean bed millions of years ago, is one of the few spots in California with a high percentage of limestone found in the soil which gives the wines a high naturally acidity. As with his P’tit Paysan wines, Brand works with fruit harvested at lower Brix, ferments using a combination of native and cultured yeast, and favors neutral oak.” (Couer Wine Company)
Another Fun I. Brand Release Party with Exceptional Catering and Great Music, 2018
You can see the influence from his time at Bonny Doon in not only his labels, but also his style of wines – they tend to be flavorful, while lower in alcohol, more in a European style. And, back in the day when we could gather, his release parties were a fun time: wine, food and live music. That’s where I was introduced to the music of ¿Qiensave? Quiensave Music.
Today’s post is about his wines we have been drinking since March from the Monterey AVA, specifically. Other regions and labels to follow.
2017 Le P’tit Paysan Chardonnay Jacks Hill Vineyard, Monterey County, 12.5 % ABV, $22, (#139*)
When I was asked to present a Monterey County wine class to the Northern Virginia American Wine Society, I looked far and wide for what I thought would be the best representation of our region while also available for purchase in Washington DC. I ran out to the tasting room to try the Jacks Hill, declared it a winner, and came home triumphant. When I shared my great find with my husband, he replied, “Well, of course it’s a great wine – we tasted it at their release party and have it in our wine room.” :-/
The 2017 Jacks Hill Chardonnay comes from Chualar, east of the Salinas. Whole-cluster fermentation, racked in neutral oak barrels, one new French oak barrel and a stainless-steel tank, aged for 5 months. 40% undergoes malolactic fermentation to round out the acids, creating a balanced expression of Chardonnay.
Jacks Hill was my pick for a Monterey County Wine for my 2019 AWS class.
Wine Enthusiast Review : “This bottling by Ian Brand always packs bang for the buck, but he really nailed it in the 2017 vintage. Clean and delicate aromas of Asian pear, lemon rind and edgy chalk lead into a racy, crisp and tightly wound palate. Flavors of grapefruit, nectarine, blanched almond and sea salt are delicious.”92 points, Matt Kettmann, February 2019
My Review: Pale gold in color, refreshingly floral, creamy peach, and pineapple nose. Full-bodied in flavor with pineapple, citrus and the slight bitterness of lime zest. A slightly tart wine with none of that over-oaked, buttery or cloying characteristics we often see in a California Chardonnay. Refreshing and delicious. August 2020
2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard, Monterey County, 13.2% ABV, $24 (#103*)
The 2019 La Marea Albariño has been our wine of choice on these warm, coastal days.
The Corkery Review: “Tasting Notes: Juicy, Lemon Citrus, Pineapple, Mineral. This fresh and aromatic Albarino benefits from the cool winds off Monterey Bay and the soils of an ancient sea bed. The wine has beautiful texture and minerality and pairs well with fresh shellfish and grilled fish as well as spicy cuisines, including Indian and Thai.” Wine Enthusiast has rated previous vintages from 90-91 points.
My Review: We drank this wine on a hot summer day after a Sancerre. Crisp and clean. The minerality showed up as a little bitterness “like a Sicilian green olive” and complemented our Mediterranean appetizers. Perfect for the occasion. July 2020
2019 La Marea Albariño Alternate Cut, Monterey County, 12.8% ABV, $30 (#114*)
I needed an Albariño for a wine class in August and pulled this one out of our wine room. We were familiar with the regular 2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard in July, so what the heck is the Alternate Cut??
There is not a lot of information out there about the 2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard Alternate Cut. The label says this: “We pulled aside 70 cases of one of the components of our Kristy Albarino to showcase a different side of what the vineyard and variety can do. Destemmed and left on the skins two days, and fermented with a ‘pied de cuvee’ yeast harvested in the vine rows, this is a broader, funkier ‘alternate cut.’“
The 2019 La Marea Alternate Cut: a funkier, bolder Albariño.
Wine Enthusiast Review of the 2018 Alternate Cut: “This experimental twist by Ian Brand shows only slight differences from his original bottling, yet they’re intriguingly fresh accents. Aromas of peach blossom, honeydew rinds and wax lead into a laser-sharp, high-toned palate that focuses on lime and the slightest touch of nectarine on the finish.” 92 points. Matt Kettmann 12/2019
My Review: Golden and slightly pink in color. A floral and peachy nose, followed by a full-flavored palate echoing the nose, perhaps slightly sweeter on the palate than a typical Albariño. The finish is big, yeasty and slightly tart and bitter in a complementary way – slightly lime rind. August 2020
I Brand is open for outside porch tastings by reservation only – email them at HELLO@IBRANDWINERY.COM. You can order their wines from the winery or via numerous shops online. As of September 7, 2020: The 2017 Chardonnay is available at Pearson’s Wine and Spirits in DC and at K&L Wine Merchants in CA for $20. The 2019 La Marea Albariño Kristy Vineyard is available from the winery and several shops around the US, including K&L Wine Merchants in CA for $20 and the Princeton Corkscrew for $22. The 2019 La Marea Albariño Alternate Cut is available from the winery and a few shops in the US, including Union Square Wines in NYC for $28, case price $25 per bottle.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
Did you know that the third Friday of every September is International Grenache Day? Neither did we. Our wine class picked Grenache for our September 17th class for that very reason. Embracing that “One World” spirit, we presented wines from France, Spain, Washington State, Napa and Monterey. That was kind of cool! I’m deviating from my planned order in honor of International Grenache Day!
We have a story for every wine in our wine room – this one is no exception. Last Fall, Pacific Grove closed a block of the town for Salud Pacific Grove: An Evening of Food and Wine. One long table extended down the street. Food and wines from our local restaurants and vintners were served family style. Some of the stores were open and other wines were available for purchase. That’s where we tried and purchased The Endless Summer red wine. We didn’t learn its full story until much later.
Salud Pacific Grove’s dining table stretched down Grand Avenue, with an awesome bay view.
Edible Monterey published this fascinating article that tells the whole story about how The Endless Summer wines came about. In it, you will read about the making of this iconic surfing movie, learn that the Georis brothers were in the band (The Sandals) that provided the music for the movie, and how Walter Georis has long wanted to open a line of wines embracing the beach culture. Some quotes from the article: “We wanted to try something you could have on the beach,” enjoying a free lifestyle, Sanvido says. “It’s a little bit of a lighter style wine, fun and nice and vibrant.”
“Georis notes that the new wines are food friendly, reflective of the local terroir and veer from the ordinary when it comes to varietals—the white is made mostly from Chenin Blanc, the Rose, Syrah, and the red, 100% Grenache. Each varietal is made in small batches of 200-300 cases…Price-wise, at $30 per bottle, the new label falls between the wines made for the acclaimed flagship Georis Winery and Georis’s more casual Cowgirl Winery.”
The Endless Summer Tasting Room will open in the former Georis Tasting Room spaces right behind Corkscrew Cafe at 4 Pilot Road, Carmel Valley Village.
“…Meantime, Georis is especially excited about the beautiful Endless Summer bottles, each engraved with the iconic movie album art, and each made in a different gorgeous color, sealed with synthetic corks in even more hues. In short, a bottle you may not want to toss after enjoying its contents.” This is so true! A collector’s item bottle with a bright blue cork, in the case of the Grenache!
The distinctive bottle, flat on one side, is definitely a piece of art – from its beautiful surfing scene etching – right down to its bright blue cork!
2016 The Endless Summer Red Wine, Monterey County 13% ABV, $30(#137*)
Winemaker’s Notes 2016 Vintage: 100% Grenache. The grapes are from a blend of vineyards across Monterey County. The 2016 was a wine that was affected by the Soberanes Fire. This results in a wine that is subtly and pleasantly smoky, accompanied by blackberry and plum. The tannins are smooth and well-integrated and the finish has lingering smoke.
Winemaker’s Notes for the 2017 Vintage: Aromas such as black cherry, strawberry, tobacco and subtle hints of mocha can be found on the nose. A smooth palate with very subtle tannins leaves wine easy to drink accompanied by great spicy notes such as cinnamon and white pepper. A medium bodied wine with great texture and complexity. 100% Grenache. 331 cases produced.
My Review: This wine is translucent garnet in appearance. I definitely detected smoked ham on the nose (my better half did not). The palate was quite juicy and pleasant, but overwhelmed by the lingering smoky finish. Would love to taste the 2017 and will hang onto this bottle! September 2020
You can buy The Endless Summer wines on the Georis website or at the Georis Tasting Room. Not sure if The Endless Summer’s Tasting Room is open yet.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
My early September wine class wanted to do a bubbly. I did a quick search on line for a Monterey sparkling wine. As soon as I saw Scratch on the list, I had to have it – I wanted to present this wine! I ran over to their tasting room in Carmel-By-The-Sea and picked up a bottle. I have been curious about Scratch, a woman-owned winery by Sabrine Rodems, the winemaker for Wrath since 2006, another favorite. What’s not to like?
The Scratch Tasting Room is mid-block on Dolores Between 7th and Ocean.
According to the Scratch Website, “Scratch is a project of Winemaker Sabrine Rodems producing small-lot Riesling, Grenache, Pinot Noir and Cabernet from Monterey, Arroyo Seco, Santa Lucia Highlands and Santa Cruz Mountains AVA’s.” Sabrine Rodems says: “What I love most about Monterey, the Arroyo Seco, Santa Lucia Highland and the Santa Cruz Mountains is that I have four geologically different sites at my fingertips. Getting to work with bench Pinot Noir and river bed Riesling and Grenach, and Coastal Cabernet makes my work exciting and the wine exciting as well. Winemaking is the best of both worlds the amalgamation of science and art.”
I wanted to learn more about Sabrine Rodems and quickly saw there are many articles about this locally reknown winemaker. One of my favorites is this one in Edible MontereySabrine Rodems On Exhibit Scratch Coming to Carmel in which she talks about experimenting with Falanghina in clay in the ancient Roman method for Wrath. She also states her favorite wine growing region is Monterey, due to its long growing season (no pressure!) and coastal climate. And explains why she likes the name Scratch (no one else had it, edgy, and hard to pin down).
Edgy Photos in the Scratch Tasting Room.
2018 Scratch Blanc de Blanc Sparkling, San Saba Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 12.2% ABV, $45 (#136*):
The 2018 Scratch Blanc de Blanc Extra Brut is a crisp and delicious bubbly.
From the Scratch Website : “The excitment has been killing us!!! Our new baby, Sparkling Blanc de Blanc made from Chardonnay off of San Saba Vineyards, which is the home vineyard of Wrath Wines. High acid Clone 17 Chardonnay in an Extra Brut style. Crisp citrus, flowers and a hint of guava with a clean finish and amazing bubbles!” 100% Chardonnay, Methode Champenoise, Extra Brut
Wine Enthusiast Review of the 2017 Vintage: “This wine features a label design by artist Eddie Colla. It shows strong aromas of pear, pineapple and tropical fruit on the nose. The palate displays flavors of lime, lemongrass and green apple, enveloped in an aggressive mousse.” 91 points. Matt Kettmann, April 2019
My Review: Pale golden in color, we detected pear notes on the nose, clean and crisp pear on the palate, finishing with lemongrass and lime. I like a good Brut bubbly, so Extra Brut made it even more special. My fellow classmates did ask, “What does an aggressive mousse taste like?” I’ll have to ask Matt. September 2020
Check out their current releases on their website. Also, you can visit their outdoor tasting room 7 days a week at in the middle of the block of Dolores between Ocean and 7th in Carmel-By-The-Sea – now that is bold!
Scratch has a very cute, well designed outdoor tasting area for guests to safely taste their wines. Photo of tasters published with their permission.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
I recently had a marvelous isolation birthday. Beautiful walks, swimming, mahjongg on the patio, all followed by appetizers and a gourmet meal prepared by my favorite chef in my own home. A wine was decanted – to my delight it was the 2015 Wrath Syrah. Yum. A few days later was Cinco de Mayo and we had a little party planned – takeout from Mando’s, our local Mexican joint, and margaritas! Right before dinner, the UPS man arrived with our order of the 2016 Wrath Syrah and, for science, we had to taste it – but after our party.
We are venturing out of Arroyo Seco AVA and to the north to the Monterey AVA – the heart of the Salinas Valley. According to the Monterey Vintners and Growers Association Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association, the Monterey AVA was established 1984. Thanks to the local climate, it enjoys one of the longest growing seasons in the world, with a wide range of microclimates influenced by the Monterey Bay. The afternoon winds cool down the vineyards and the maritime fog keeps the temperatures from falling too low. Over 50% of the grapes grown are Chardonnay.
This area has been suffering the fires and smoke from the ongoing River Fire and I expect we will hear reporting soon from the damage.
The Vineyards of the Monterey AVA from the Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association Webpage
We got to know Wrath years ago, as one of their tasting rooms is centrally located in the Carmel Shopping Plaza right off Ocean Avenue in quaint Carmel-By-The-Sea. It was always a fun place to drop in to taste some great wines. In the Spring of 2019, we took a family road trip down the River Road Wine Trail through the Salinas Valley to their winery and main tasting room in Soledad – it was the highlight of our trip. The plan was to go back there in March 2020 with our new friends and have a picnic there. Sigh…someday. While their Syrah has always been one of my favorites, they make great Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, and I featured their delicious 2017 EX Sauvignon Blanc in my Fall 2019 Northern Virginia AWS class.
About Wrath Wines from their website: “Wrath is in the wall of maritime fog that rolls into the Salinas Valley and the relentless afternoon winds that scream through our grape trellises. Wrath wines represent a nexus of nature and an unbridled passion for winemaking.” This description refers to the harsh conditions created by the cold waters of the Monterey Bay and the afternoon winds that come screaming even down my street and fog (like the heavy bank which rolled in last evening), reminding me daily that those winds and fog serve a purpose – to help us make great wine.
San Saba Vineyard Photo from our March 2019 Visit
A bit about the San Saba Vineyard from Wrath: “Our Estate San Saba Vineyard is set in a sheltered nook just below the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. The estate consists of 72 acres of which 67.75 are planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Falanghina. This is a cool site with little rainfall and one of the longest growing seasons in the world. Our soils, Arroyo Gravelly Loam and Hanford Gravely Sandy Loam, provide a low-vigor, well-draining, disease- and pest-free medium for our vines. They also impart a subtle mineral quality to our wines…”
2017 Wrath EX Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey AVA, 13% ABV $20
This Sauvignon Blanc represented Monterey white wines very well for my Northern Virginia AWS class. Product photo from Wrath website.
About the EX Label: “Wrath is proud to announce the release of EX wines, our updated label that replaces the Ex Anima series. With a name meaning “out of” in Latin, EX speaks to our focus on expressing the personality and characteristics of our Certified Sustainable (SIP) estate vineyard. We harvest grapes at two different ripeness levels and then blend lots together to create a wine that encapsulates the best qualities of each lot. fermentation and aging take place in stainless tanks.”
The 2017 EX Sauvignon Blanc is bright and vibrant with pronounced guava and gooseberries. 1023 cases produced.
Wine Enthusiast Review: ” Freshly cut lawn, wet cement, sour lime rinds, and kelp combine for a very unique and compelling nose on this bottling. The nose extends to the palate, where white pepper and crushed white-rock flavors make for a memorable sip.” 90 pts, Matt Kettmann, November 2018
2015Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 14.7% ABV, $39 (#38*)
The 2015 Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard is a big, chewy wine, rated 90 points.
Review by Lisa Perrotti-Brown of The Wine Advocate: “Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2015 Syrah San Saba Vineyard has a beguiling seaweed, dried Provence herbs and green tea nose over a core of black and red cherries, mulberries and garrigue. Full-bodied and firmly structured with chewy tannins, it has loads of earthy appeal and a long pepper and herbs-laced finish.” 90 points
My Review: This is one of our favorite Monterey wines and this vintage was excellent. The color was incredibly dense and the flavors match the look. IMHO, this wine deserves a higher rating!
2016 Wrath Syrah San Saba Vineyard, Monterey AVA, 14.7% ABV, $39 (#41*)
The 2016 Wrath Syrah from the San Saba Vineyard received a well-deserved 95 point rating!
From Wrath Wines regarding the Wrath 2016 Syrah: “Grapes are hand harvested and hand sorted. Clonal lots are kept separate during fermentation. All our single vineyard syrahs use a similar whole cluster fermentation (20%) and oak regimen. This helps highlight the individual personality of each vineyard. After on-site bottling, the wine rests for another 12 months of bottle aging before release.” 100% French oak, 45% new. 298 cases were produced.
Wrath says this about the 2016 Syrah San Saba Vineyard: “Powerful and elegant, aromatics include blackberry, leather and peppercorns; the palate is rich and concentrated with graphite, cassis, and a hint of smoke.” Jeb Dunnuck rated this wine 95 points! I would have to agree!!
My Review: We found the 2016 Syrah to be similar to the 2015 in taste – very dense red with blueberry and blackberry on the nose. Delicious smooth palate of alcohol-laced, dancing bright and dark fruits – berries and plums, lingering finish. I highly recommend this wine if you are a Syrah fan.
Wrath offers free ground shipping on case purchases of its wine, which you can purchase from its website.
The San Francisco Chronicle published a list of the Top 10 Things to do in Monterey and Wrath’s tasting room is included in that list. For more information on tasting Wrath wines, click here. According to Wrath’s website, as of September 5th: “Inside tastings may be banned for now but at the winery tasting room, we have a large outdoor patio that is perfect for safe spacing and sampling our wines while enjoying the views. We are 5 minutes west of Hwy 101 and 20 minutes south of Salinas, off River Road. In Carmel, we have moved our tasting room outside onto the center courtyard of Carmel Plaza (Ocean & Mission). We don’t have a large amount of seating but we do have a nice fire pit to stay cozy on those foggy days that Carmel is so famous for.”
Please give them a call to confirm, especially during these times of COVID and the River Fire – 831-620-1909.
*Refers to wines tasted while Sheltering in Place on Sharon’s personal Facebook group “Sharon’s Central Coast (Monterey) Wine Blog” – including non-Central Coast wines.
When my DC wine class suggested we do a Grüner Veltliner a few weeks ago, my reaction was “A what?” It was explained to me that it is an Austrian varietal. I replied, “I’ll never find an Austrian wine here.” One of my friends suggested that this grape is probably grown in California. Lo and behold! 100 acres are planted right here in Monterey County! I learned Scheid is one of the growers and a quick check of their web page confirmed a current release! I placed my order over the phone and picked up the order at their Carmel-By-The-Sea tasting room.
The Beautiful Scheid Tasting Room in Carmel-By-The-Sea
We’ve been acquainted with Scheid wines for some time. You can’t drive down 101 through the Salinas Valley without seeing acre after acre of Scheid grapes – all the way down to the San Luis Obispo border (at least that’s what it seems!). In fact, according to their website, they own “12 estate vineyards located along a 70-mile stretch of the Salinas Valley.”
Condensed from Scheid Vineyards: Al Scheid was a pioneer in the Monterey wine industry, planting vineyards back in 1972. With investment partners and known as the Monterey Farming Corporation, they sold 100% of their grapes. In the early 1990s, they decided to replant and produce wines under their own label.
From Scheid Vineyards “Grüner Veltliner accounts for approximately one-third of all the wine grapes grown in Austria, and is widely planted in the Czech Republic and Slovakia as well, but just under 100 acres are estimated to be planted in California. We planted our first Grüner vines in 2010 because, truthfully, our winemaking team wanted it. See, they’re wine geeks. And wine geeks love Grüner because it has a wonderful spicy minerality combined with pop rock acidity, it’s über aromatic, and it’s a great wine to pair with food. So their wish was granted (they are a hard team to say ‘no’ to) and 2018 marks our sixth vintage of this delicious varietal…”
Satisfying the curiosity of Scheid’s wine geeks results in a Monterey-style Grüner Veltliner.
The winemaking: “The handpicked grapes were whole cluster pressed and the juice was then lightly pressed. The juice was then cold settled to remove the excess pulp, which prevents the yeast from being stressed and allows for a clean fermentation. The juice was slowly fermented entirely in stainless steel at a very cold temperature to enhance the fruit esters and preserve the varietal aromatics. It was aged in 100% stainless steel for 3 months. The result is a refreshing, fruit-packed wine with a medium-bodied finish bursting with citrus and lively acidity.” 139 cases.
The label says: “The cool climate of our Riverview Vineyard allows for slow ripening and preserves the intense fruit flavors and loads of bright citrus with tropical fruit and honey notes that lead into a clean, crisp finish.” 88 points, Vinous
My Review: The Scheid version of this varietal is reminiscent to me of a Viognier. Magnolia on the nose, honey and lemony/grapefruit on the palate, with a slight lime zest finish. This wine is both sweet and tart. The 14.5% alcohol means this is a bigger, sweeter version of a Grüner Veltliner than you would ever find in Austria. August 2020
You can order Scheid wines directly from their webpage. Their tasting rooms have been open daily for outdoor tasting. Please be sure to call them to confirm. You can make a reservation and get more info here: Visit Scheid
The wine class theme my DC friends picked for our late August virtual class was White Burgundy or unoaked Chardonnay, if we can’t get our hands on the real deal. Since we are limiting our trips out, I hunted in the fridge and found this Arroyo Seco wine from J. Lohr. I had picked up this wine a while back as one of the Wine Spectator’s Top Value California Chardonnays. Perfect. Except my research told me it is oaked. A rule-follower by day, I still like to color outside the lines when I can.
About J. Johr from its website: “Four decades ago, the California Central Coast had not yet emerged as one of North America’s world-class winegrowing regions. With little history or viticultural precedent, planting on the Central Coast was a gamble. One of an handful of early pioneers, Jerry Lohr was among the first to realize the inherent potential of Monterey and Paso Robles for producing high quality grapes and superb wines…After Jerry Lohr’s nearly decade-long search for the right place to plant his first vineyard, he chose a site in Monterey County that was to become the heart of the Arroyo Seco appellation. Jerry planted the winery’s first 280 acres in 1972 in Greenfield.”
The J. Lohr 2018 Riverstone Chardonnay makes Wine Spectator Top Value list!
Winemaker Notes: “The 2018 Riverstone Chardonnay exhibits youthful hues of light straw. The enticing aromas are reminiscent of white peach, apricot, ripe orange, and cocoa, and complemented by the palate flavors of citrus cream and nectarine. The rich texture and balance on the palate from aging sur lie gives way to flavors of vanilla, crème brûlée, and a touch of oak can be found on the long finish.” Kristen Barnhisel, winemaker, white wine. She made a video about this wine: 2018 Riverstone Chardonnay Video. According to the video, it is made in a style that combines both Old World and New World techniques. She used 3 different kinds of oak barrels, each attributing different characteristics to the wine: American (baking spices), Hungarian (a little sweetness), and French (vanilla and mocha). This wine is the number one AVA-labeled Chardonnay in the U.S.! 100% Chardonnay.
Wine Spectator Review: “Plush green apple, pear and white peach flavors are supported by fresh acidity. The well-framed finish offers a flurry of spice details, with hints of honey. Drink now through 2023. 564,000 cases made.” 89 points, Best Value KM
My Review: Pale yellow and almost a green in color, this wine swirls with a beutiful viscosity. A classic Chardonnay nose of oak, butter and hints of pineapple and bitter citrus. Flavor explodes on the palate with intense pineapple and citrus, with butter, honey and vanilla notes. Lingering finish of all those flavors and a touch of bitter citrus. Despite the higher alcohol, it still drinks lean. This wine is overall balanced in flavors – not too oaky or buttery for those who prefer an unoaked Chardonnay and not too overwhelmingly citrus or acidic. August 2020
J. Lohr is not currently open for tastings in either its Paso Robles or San Jose locations. I found this wine in my local grocery store. It should be widely available.
Many wineries source grapes from other vineyards and regions. Some don’t even have their own vineyards and produce amazing wines through innovative sourcing. Parsonage grows Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot on its 7-acre estate vineyard. So where does this Carmel Valley winery get its other varietals – or grapes to supplement in the 2016 Soberanes Fire vintage? From Chesebro’s Cedar Lane Vineyard in Arroyo Seco – a great alternative!
From Parsonage Wine: “Parsonage is a boutique, family-run vineyard and winery located in the heart of Carmel Valley. We produce big, bold, red wines at a small scale. We named our wine Parsonage because the Parsonage is where the Parson and his family live. We’d love to meet you on your next Carmel Valley wine tasting and are open Thursdays through Mondays by appointment.”
Inside and Outside the Parsonage Winery, April 2019
I’m presenting three wines which Parsonage sources from the Arroyo Seco AVA: the 2018 Grenache Rosé, the 2016 Grenache-Syrah, and their 2016 Cyrano Red Wine. We tasted these wines with friends as we helped Parsonage test out their reopening operations during the COVID-19 pandemic. Parsonage says they learned a lot from our trial run. 😊
2018 Parsonage Grenache Rosé – Light and Refreshing
From Parsonage Wine: “A perennial warm weather favorite. And a surprise to everyone who thinks they don’t like Rosé! Made with Grenache grapes. Refreshing and dry. We get raspberry and strawberry with back notes of spice and stone fruit. These elements play out on the palate with a delightful fullness and a crisp finish.”
My Review: The grapes for this wine comes from Mark Chesebro’s Cedar Lane vineyard in Arroyo Seco. Very light in color, almost golden. Peach and apricot – a very light and refreshing Rosé. June 2020
The Parsonage Grenache-Syrah has frequently been a favorite. The Parsonage Village Vineyard is quite small yet powerful. They grow no Grenache and, with the Soberanes fire in the summer of 2016, their Syrah also needed to be sourced from another AVA. Fortunately for us, their long-standing relationship with Mark Chesebro’s Cedar Lane Vineyard in Arroyo Seco provided them the capability to produce this vintage from a year that was extremely hard for Carmel Valley wineries. This wine is on their Premium Tasting list – a big wine to start with right off the bat.
This is a classic Southern Rhone wine from Parsonage Wines: “This easy drinker pairs nicely with cheese & crackers. We joke that we should re-name it the “universal donor” even though that isn’t the perfect analogy. But you get the gist of it – this wine seems to be universally loved, no matter what your favorite varietal is. 70 percent Grenache and 30 percent Syrah. Fully dry. Medium-bodied but rich. Notes of black, red and blue fruit with a hint of spice on the finish..”
My Review: Dark fruit and a bit of alcohol on the nose. Black tea, chai, white pepper and cinnamon on the palate. A bit brash, but we liked it. For a medium-bodied wine, it is a big one. Must be that 15% alcohol on top of the fruit. I re-tasted this wine in August and detected no brashness right out of the bottle – it was just a yummy wine. I need to get more of this vintage, if possible!! June 2020 and August 2020
Another Parsonage – this time an everyday wine and a favorite. For a long time, this wine was called “Snosrap” (Parsons spelled backwards). The label was a beautiful Mary Ellen Parsons quilt of Cyrano smelling a glass of wine. A marketing expert suggested they simply call this red blend “Cyrano.” Thus, the current naming of this wine.
From Parsonage Wine: “Our versatile red table wine easily pairs with a variety of different foods. We think it goes especially well with pizza and spaghetti with red sauce. This vintage is full bodied. A blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Syrah. Rich, ripe and voluptous. The Cyrano is one of our best sellers.”
My Review: Slight brownish tint, inky and “Camembert” on the nose. The palate is smooth with bold, intense fruit, with herbal notes. This vintage is particularly delicious. Recommending snapping up some – great wine at a value price.
Once we are on the other side of this fire emergency, you can obtain these wines directly from the winery: They offer flat rate ground shipping for $14.99. Join their wine club for 20% off. You can also visit their tasting room by appointment only in Carmel Valley Village (“the village”) Thursdays through Sundays, 11 a.m. – 5 p.m. You can make a reservation from their home page:Parsonage Wine.
2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris, Arroyo Seco AVA, 14% ABV, 175 cases produced, List Price: $26, 216 cases produced
We have a fondness for Blair and stop into their tasting room in Carmel Plaza from time to time. We mostly go because it bears the maiden name of a good friend. And, about half the time, we’ve found Jeffrey Blair behind the counter. If you like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, it’s a good place to try. Its wines are getting favorable marks in various competitions, with the 2016 vintage of their Pinot Gris scoring 91 points by Wine Enthusiast.
In general, we really like Arroyo Seco wines, with sandy loam and cobblestones in the dry river beds. Here, cold winds off nearby Monterey Bay (the Blue Grand Canyon™) can make it “wind-blown and numbingly cold” as Mercy Wines describes it, yet somehow perfect growing conditions. We like Arroyo Seco Chardonnay (did I really say that?), Grenache, and Syrah. You will hear more about them as I continue my trek through the Arroyo Seco AVA.
Matt Kettmann wrote an excellent article, The Hidden Treasures of Monterey in Wine Enthusiast which includes a nice writeup about Blair.
2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris
The 2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris was Blair’s third Pinot Gris release from the Arroyo Seco AVA. Unfortunately, winemaking notes not readily available, since this is not the current release. Matt Kettmann, Wine Enthusiast, describes it like this: “Lemon cream, honeydew, honeysuckle and toast aromas show on the nose of this bottling. There is a citrusy boost to the palate, where orange-sorbet and lemon-spritz flavors arise.”
My Review: We tasted this wine before I was brave enough to do my own tasting notes. I asked my resident wine expert what he thought about the 2015 Blair Estate Pinot Gris. His response, “I opened the Chardonnay for cooking – it was fine!” Hm. Yes, well, it was a delicious Pinot Gris, always a pleasant change from Chardonnay. We did see it should have been consumed by 2018, yet it was perfectly delicious. March 2020
Check out Blair Wines for their current releases. They have a very nice tasting room in Carmel Plaza (Carmel-By-The-Sea). Their website suggests the tasting room is open every day, but always best to call ahead and confirm: (831) 625-WINE, especially during the fire emergency, much less the pandemic.
We discovered Mercy Vineyards when they opened a tasting room in Carmel Valley Village – they were the very first tasting room as you come into the village. We would often see the Mark Dirickson sitting out front with his lunch and a glass of white wine. All of their wines are from the Arroyo Seco AVA. Why? The dry, cobblestone (“Greenfield Potatoes”) riverbeds of granite and shale and the extreme climate of chilly winds and fog make it an ideal growing area for wine grapes.
The “Greenfield Potatoes” of the Ancient River Channel photo from Mercy Wines website
From Mercy Wines: “Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco AVA is many things: windblown, numbingly cold, fog laden, semi-arid, rock strewn, austerely beautiful. In essence, the perfect grape source for Mercy wines…the wines are sourced from three contiguous vineyards, all located in a specific part of the appellation – The Ancient River Channel…Found along the banks of a now seasonal creek, this unique riverbed corridor features ideal maritime climate with rocky, meager surface soil and hardpan just feet below ground. Low yields, unique soil attributes and meticulous farming combine to produce flavorful and distinct grapes. Grown in such a dramatic setting, the wines truly are at the Mercy of Mother Nature.” (The vineyards are Cedar Lane, Griva and Zabala.)
We were impressed from our first meeting with Mark and winemaker Mike Kohne, who were also running their nascent tasting room. They also were producing a dry Riesling, something not seen much around here. While most of their wines are Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, they had me at Syrah – my favorite Mercy wines. I featured their 2017 Riesling at my Spring 2019 Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar (WWCS) class, and their 2016 Syrah in my Fall 2019 Northern Virginia AWS seminar. I had planned to presenting their Sauvignon Blanc and the 2016 Syrah at my 2020 Washington Wine and Cheese Seminar, which is on hold indefinitely. My DC friends got to consume those wines! And I have to say we are really enjoying their Pinot Noirs – it took the pandemic for me to realize I might actually like Pinot Noir!
The truly sad news is that Mercy Vineyards is now closed. Their website www.mercywines.com is still operational. We love these guys and are sorry to see them go.
Today I am presenting 7 of their wines – some tasted before I was writing my own tasting notes, some for which there is little-to-no published information. 6 of these were tasted during the Shelter in Place order. If you gotta stay home, drink good wine!
Aspiring to make a dry, old-world style Riesling, Mercy sourced Germanic clones from vines set in extremely rocky, low-yielding topsoil.
FromMercy Wines: “Fermented dry, with just the slightest touch of sweetness added back for texture, this “troken” style Riesling showcases aromas of orchard fruit as nectarine and pear notes mingle with honeysuckle, fennel, pollen and minerals in the bouquet.”
2017 Mercy Sauvignon Blanc Zabala Vineyard, 13.8% ABV, $24
I needed a good white to cook with in April and, since we bought this wine for half price, I didn’t feel too bad cooking with it – and even got to enjoy some with my meal. Just like many Mercy wines, this one is from the Zabala Vineyard – man, that place produces great fruit. I’m going to have to lean on my friends to find out which other wineries buy from Zabala or get to know the grower.
2017 Mercy Sauvignon Blanc Zabala Vineyard
From Mercy Wines: “This Sauvignon Blanc is comprised exclusively of the low-yielding, Musque clone (FPS 27) from vines at the Zabala Vineyard. Set in the Arroyo Seco AVA’s ancient river channel the property’s locale features granitic topsoil arrayed on cobblestone beds. Such meager soil further diminishes yields and in concert with strong winds and dense fog combine to provide an environment ideal for compelling fruit.
“Hand-harvested in early September 2017, the Sauvignon Blanc grapes were crushed into stainless steel for fermentation. Racked to small mueller, steel barrels the wine aged for 6 months until being bottled on April 26, 2018. Innately racy, the straw colored wine features a bouquet with exotic aromas of melon, pineapple and star fruit, as well as lemon blossom, fresh cut hay and mineral characters. Replete with acidity, this aromatic wine has, due to the clone, a nice weight while remaining bright and refreshing.”
In the spirit of creating some isolation fun, Charlie decided we would taste this wine blind – he poured me a glass and made me guess what it was. This was a big red with a spicy bouquet. Zinfandel!Nope. Joullian Retro Rouge? Nope. He confirmed it was a Monterey wine. Then he said that it is not one of my favorites – which jumped me to Pinot Noir! I guessed based on its heft that it must be the Parsonage Hawk Reserve Pinot Noir! Wrong again – close, but no cigar.
On one of our 3 trips to Mercy in February 2020, the tasting room was boasting it had found these 2012 Pinot Noirs from the Arroyo Seco AVA, tucked away at the winery. They let us taste it and we bought a bunch.
2012 Mercy Pinot Noir Zabala Vineyard
This is a full-bodied Pinot Noir, once again a wine hailing from the fabulous Zabala Vineyard. The label describes this wine as follows: “Wind blown, Zabala Vineyard bears the brunt of regional maritime elements. This small-lot Pinot Noir hails from the “South Pointe”, a section of vineyard blocks nearest the seasonal creek. From this rocky locale, Mercy sources “Dijon” clones 115 and 667, as well as a touch of Pommard clone.”
From Mercy Wines: “A barrel selection of nine distinct barrels, this wine showcases the dense, juicy berry-nature of Pinot Noir grown on the Zabala ranch. Aromas of black berries and cherry mingle with notes baking spices, violets and earthy-mineral tones. Richly textured, firm tannins enhance the fruit flavors on the palate and melt away as part of the long finish.”
If I could get my hands on more of this, I would. We had this wine for Sunday night dinner with steak and a flavorful barley risotto. It was a fabulous combo. It is making me re-think my views on Pinot Noir!
2014 Mercy Pinot Noir, Cedar Lane Vineyard, 14.4% ABV, $32(Outbreak Wine #120)
About Cedar Lane Vineyard from Mercy Wines: “Located against and somewhat sheltered by a natural bench, a 40-foot palisade of bedrock along its northern border, this 60-acre vineyard is owned by Mark Chesebro and farmed by Michael Griva. Found at the base of the Santa Lucia Mountains the sand as well as shale and granite cobblestone topsoil are meager with little nutrients, ultimately helping to diminish yields. The vineyard is planted to multiple varietals, including 7 different clones of Pinot Noir of which Mercy Vineyards sources two (“Pommard” clone 4 and clone 667).”
2014 Mercy Pinot Noir, Cedar Lane Vineyard
Wine Enthusiast rated this wine 89 points: “Concentrated lavender and incense aromas make for a woody perfume on the nose of this appellation blend, giving lots of character to the core of cherry syrup. The palate shows the same levels of intense incense and purple flowers, which nearly overpowers the cranberry and pomegranate fruits.” Matt Kettmann October 2017
My Review: Beautiful crystalized cork. This wine has a dark robe, slightly brownish. Musty, blackberry with cedar notes on the nose. A palate of blackberry, cherry and a little leather, giving a slightly bitter finish – perhaps a little raisin. This is a very rich and full-bodied Pinot Noir. I do like my wines made from Cedar Lane grapes! August 2020
My Review: We tasted this wine last after a series of big wines – I did not capture good tasting notes. Very dark in color, this wine has lost some of its fruit and beyond its prime. Nevertheless, it was a terrific wine.
According to their website, “Mercy sources three clones from the Zabala family (clone 7 an Aussie Shiraz clone, and two French ENTAV clones 470 and 877). All get co-fermented in small open top bins and ultimately the wine spent 18 months in French oak barrels (11% new) prior to bottling.”
2012 Mercy Syrah Zabala Vineyard
Wine Enthusiast gave it 93 points with this review: “Ripe and plump blackberries shine through in a showcase of fruit purity, lifted by dried fennel, hot black gravel, peppercorns, toasted sesame and soy. There is tremendous structure and acidity on the sip, with black pepper and black-sesame nuance plus juicy boysenberry character to the midpalate.”
My Review: Almost 4 years later, this wine is drinking beautifully – blackberry and mocha with a touch of spice, full and smooth on the palate. Yum. Tasted March 2020
I presented this wine at the October 2019 Northern Virginia AWS class as a compare and contrast of wines from the same 2016 vintage, different AVAs, to show how the Soberanes Fire affected wines from Carmel Valley but not from the other Monterey County AVAs.
Regarding the 2016 Riverbed Syrah from Mercy Wines: “The progeny of grapevines located in the ancient, dried riverbed corridor of the Arroyo Seco AVA. This wine combines fruit from vines set in meager, nutrient-deficient topsoil which feature cobblestone beds of granite and shale. In addition to the distinct and finite terrain, the riverbed channel location is also is noted for its extreme climate as forceful winds and dense fog persist throughout the growing season. All these factors combine to create a distinct environment that is suited for Rhone varieties.
2016 Mercy Syrah Riverbed – the Last Release and a Great One
“Harvest in late October the grapes were transported to the winery in the early morning. At the winery the fruit was crushed with the ‘must’ racked to small bins for fermentation. Once dry, the wine was pressed off and transferred to neutral (1 and 2 year old) French oak barrels. Ultimately, it was aged 20 months before being bottled. The resulting wine shows aromas of juicy late-summer plum, cherry, lavender, sagebrush and holiday spices.”
My Review: Raspberry, blackberry and cassis on the nose. An explosion of berry and cassis on the palate, and a lingering finish. Smooth and delicious. May 2020
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